The compression water fittings assembled dry will tend to leak, assembled with a teflon pipe dope or even a wrap of teflon tape will help prevent leaks
After I put the nut and ferrule on the pipe I do a couple wraps of Teflon tape around the feral the direction the nut will tighten! Pretty much guarantee no leak and there's no o-ring to go bad
Teflon (or PTFE as we call it in UK) seems to work quite well when it comes to sealing the olive (ferrule, cone etc). I presume by pipe dope you mean joining compound?
For polyethylene tubing, use polyethylene ferrule. Don't use brass (a.k.a. olive), it will cut into the poly tubing- brass is for copper tubing. Also, no plumbers tape on threads. (a mistake I've made). -When using those push together things: if/when it does leak, take it apart and re-cut the end of the tube with a proper tubing cutter, don't re-insert without cutting off that 14 inch of buggered up tubing. Also, when using compression fittings on poly, the brass sleeves are important to keep the poly tubing from collapsing. It looks like the sleeve is integrated into the barbed adaptors. Thanks again!
I use a razor blade to cut the poly tubing, I've asked at Lowe's of better cutting tool for this and they say razor blades. I haven't encountered any issues using brass connectors on poly tubing, just like guy on video said it does cause anxiety major. These plastic connectors are so easy and work well.
Good video. However, a brass connector to compression on a copper pipe works good. Brass to a plastic tubing works ok, but you must use a metal insert into the plastic tubing. Without that support, it will always leak. I would also attach the copper tubing to the wall and also the plastic tubing. If these are not held down, someone could tear them off by accident.
The the plastic one you pointed to was leaking because it was done wrong. You can't use compression fittings on plastic tube without the copper inserts that go inside to stabilize them!
basically i'd do the exact opposite you've done. those push-fit fittings are made for plastic tubes. they will eventually fail on metal tubes since they can't grip as well on them.. The compression fittings never leak, unless you install them like a plumber that thinks more torque is more betterer. crushing them is what makes them leak almost everytime. screwed to contact then a light snug is all that's needed with these but everyone insists on cranking them to hell then wonder why they piss water everywhere :p
My favorite plastic fittings for 1/4" tubing are the John Guest fittings. I have used them throughout the house running RO water to multiple sink faucets and ice makers without any leaks. They also make inline quick connect valves as well.
@@curtisfamily2006 You're right. I bought several bags of clips on Amazon to use with my fittings. Don't know how much they help but I figured what the hell.
If installed correctly the compression fittings work and do not leak. The push fit you are talking about is a lot quicker, but i will stick to the compression style.
5 years does not constitute an permanent repair in the universe of plumbing. Who wants to replace a ruined wood or carpeted flooring, baseboards, cabinetry because they didn't use compression fittings as they were designed to work, and instead relied upon a friction fitting. 5 years is a mere blink in time...@@diyhvacguy evealeveal
I was having such a hard time installing the traditional brass fittings to connect the two lines together. I was going to buy more of the same, but asked if they had what you are recommending and they did. It was so simple to install. I can't believe how much time I tried with the old way. Thank you! I did overpay for it at Ace at about $6.99 for one and the link that I just now clicked on that you provide gives you a 10 pack for $6.99. I might have to just buy the pack to have them on hand. Thanks this was very helpful!
OMG, I have been trying to figure out a problem I have adding drip irrigation to my Tower Garden. I just happened across your channel and found the answer in this Podcast. LOL What is the most amazing is you live in my home town!! Go figure... Thank you very much for your channel, I am now subscribed.
Cheap plastic push on connectors do leak over time especially when they are outside. Barbed fittings reduce the ID of the tubing, but they work. Brass ferrule fittings work great. On cooper the tube needs to be clean and you should use a little vegetable oil on the ferrule. It also helps to anneal the copper a bit with a propane torch and let it cool naturally. On the plastic part just use vegetable oil and only finger tight plus about a half turn, then turn on the water and tighten until it stops dripping if it’s dripping at all. Ferrule fittings work just fine and do not deteriorate like plastic in the weather. They been around forever. I absolutely do not trust cheap push to connect fittings for water in a home. If that fitting breaks that 1/4” line could do a lot of water damage.
Thanks for posting the video. It was a headache for myself until I learned when connecting to poly tubing we must have a insert in the pipe to prevent leaks so the compression fitting, ferrule can really clamp down strong.
This is what I needed! I'm used to good quality compression fittings for gas welding equipment and the ones for water just suck. Another trip to home Depot 😅
those metal brass inserts are almost a must have whenmessing with plastic tubing ,,the quickdisconnects are beutiful when it comes to hooking up plastic lines whether their water or air. its better to use an insert on the quick disconnects ,but i have had fair luck with out them but better to have . ty for reminding me about the connectors ,being an x trucker i forgot all about those.
Problem with compression fittings on plastic pipe is people tend to give them the same amount of torque as they would when doing up a joint on copper pipe work. Compression fittings can be used on plastic pipe no problem, but you need to nip them up enough so that it the olive doesn’t grip the pipe properly or gets squashed into the plastic itself. Generally speaking, compression fittings should be done up with a bit of PTFE tape (Teflon as you guys call it) around the olive or smear on some jointing compound as doing them up dry can be risky.
Thank you!! I need to buy tubing and fittings for my swamp cooler and this really helps. I love the push to connect idea for repair when tubing gets punctured. Love the plastic ones. I did find that they have them at Lowes, so they probably have them at HD.
Very good. Thats great info. I was struggling with that brass coupling with the ferrow's and inserts and after 3 tries I figured I just need new brass. I'll try those plastic deals tomorrow. Yes they are aggravating. Thank for the video
Went looking for reviews on the Uxcell brand ones I'm seeing on Walmart's website. Looking to rip out & redo a crusty 20+ yr old line. Unfortunately it's copper line from the hot side to brass compression T. Under the sink, through cupboards, over a doorway, to the fridge. A 1961 built all original house definitely comes with some DIY tasks. After signing, we've dropped $17k in the first week.
And those that leak always lack an insert. If you are skipping the insert, you are asking for fitting failure, and the solution to that problem is to install the fitting with all the components needed and torqued properly. Then sit back and wait to see what happens. Correctly installed compression fittings will not leak and will outlive virtually everyone reading this post.
QUICK QUESTION: I want to add an in-line carbon water filter - can I just cut the supply line and insert each cut end into the filter w/o a compression fitting? 🤔 Thanks🤠😎
I’m a plumbing contractor and this guy couldn’t be more wrong. Never use a shark bite fitting inside a house. It’s good for a temporary fix, but over time the rubber O-rings start to deteriorate and the fitting starts leaking. Brass compression fittings work the best if it’s done correctly. You have to use a plastic ferrule on pex pipe and the brass ferrule on copper pipe. Also, put some pipe dope on the threading.
These push to connect unions or fittings are made to connect plastic to plastic, but works for copper to plastic too?!?!? That’s convenient. So if I have a 1/4” to 1/4” push on valve, I don’t need this union; I can directly go copper from in the inlet to plastic to outlet of my valve?
The two things I norice here is barbed fitting choke the flow number 1. That quarter tube just became eighth inch whether you care or not. 2. Material choices. Plastic is brittttle, what will be flowing through it?
Good video ! Yea, totally agree on the brass coupling they seem to leak after a period of time. Also agree on the poly fitting. I have used them for 10 years now & they do work well. No leaks so far on a water filter job using poly fittings after 10 years. Was there a couple days ago & still doing well.
Does the manufacturer recommend a clamp to secure the tube on the barb fitting? I know on larger barbs, you usually use some kind of clamp. I'd probably be tempted to grab a tiny hose clamp from the parts bin for that guy just for some extra insurance.
I’m not sure on that but boy if you try and pull that off you won’t be able to. If I want to reuse one of these fittings I’ll have to cut the tubing off of the fitting. It’s pretty small. Not sure if one could find a clamp that small anyhow
@@diyhvacguy McMaster Carr has almost any fitting or clamp you would ever need. Those barbed fitting are often used for pneumatic controls like actuators and dampers. They usually carry air pressure. I never see them leaking when used with the correct tubing. They should be fine for water, but once again if it’s water and it does leak there could be a major problem. If that tube is in the sun it could get so hot it builds pressure, softens, and blows that tube right off that barb. With air you hear a hissing noise and fix the leak. With water you could be calling your liability insurance company to repair water damage or calling a lawyer when the customer sues. Just saying.
How do I connect 3/4” soft copper tubing to 3/4” soft copper tubing in my compressed air line? This is driving me nuts. The ID of hard copper pipe is 0.75” and the OD of soft copper tubing is 0.75”. So one would think that I could use an inch of hard copper pipe as a sleeve and solder them together. But there’s a small amount of slop in there and I worry about getting a good seal. Any ideas? Thanks, Paul
I've been trying to figure out what I want to do with this mobile home that has copper water lines, bottom is 3/8 in and the top goes into a 1/2 in with a plastic insert part that pushes against the flare pipe when tightened to create a seal. Its leaking right under the 1/2 nut at the pipe flare dipping down the pipe its not like a fast drip its just a slow drip but yeah its annoying lol. I know when I went to a plumber shop they told me to use 3/8 compression fittings on the pipe and then just hook up a water supply line to it. I don't see a 1/2'' barbed adapter but I do see 3/8 in push to connect I might need to do some more research.
Hooked up many ice maker or humidifier lines with 1/4" nuts. If a little poly line, are you using a stiffener and nylon ferrule? I rarely have any problems. Sounds like installer error man. Ive even seen a brass ferrule on a poly line. Thats a last resort as itll cut into the poly...but yea...generally i have 0 issues.
You showed the barbed fitting with no pipe, then the barbed fitting with the plastic tube connected and finished, but you didn't actually show the plastic being connected, which is the most important part 🤔.
New video idea - am I the first person to ever think abt opening some ductwork in my attic to get some cold air in the attic when it is 130 deg in my attic? Is there an open / close fitting that I could install in my ductwork to temp push a/c into my attic when I need it?
What about larger pipe, such as the half inch copper pipe used for water supply lines to bathroom and kitchen sinks, which feed into shutoff valves below the sink? Are you making the same recommendation against using compression-fitted shutoff valves?
No I’ve never had an issue with compression valves. Just the small 1/4” ones I always seem to get a leak. These fittings are so much easier and I love them
Absolutely correct. Press on couplings are only as good as the rubber gasket, and those of us who've been around rubber gaskets and washers for more than a few decades know exactly what to expect from them. Failure.
and five years experience to "prove" it. Not enough I've 55 years of real life use of compression fittings without a single failure. Shark bight style fittings are an expensive and far less durable solution to something that is not a problem when installed correctly.
I blown cold air into the attic using super strong fan. Has anybody considered installing a fitting on their ductwork to temp redirect cold air into the attic if u have to be up there during summer? Would love to see if anyone has ever thought of this or tried it!
Yesir, it’s an evaporative cooler. We have a lot of them out here in the west where it’s low humidity. I’ll do a video on it soon explaining how they work! Cheers
@The DIY HVAC Guy Yeah, I haven't seen those either. We (me and my family) reside on the East Coast. Although, I keep a window banger (portable ac window unit) set aside for Hurricane season. Just in case we lose power for weeks. Decades ago, I learned the hard way. It's miserable, not having AC, especially with the heat/ humidity index off the charts.
The compression water fittings assembled dry will tend to leak, assembled with a teflon pipe dope or even a wrap of teflon tape will help prevent leaks
Yeah, use the dope! Seriously. Just a little bit of dope at the contact point.
I use a little cooking oil to lube the fitting and reduce friction. Non toxic and works every time.
After I put the nut and ferrule on the pipe I do a couple wraps of Teflon tape around the feral the direction the nut will tighten! Pretty much guarantee no leak and there's no o-ring to go bad
Teflon (or PTFE as we call it in UK) seems to work quite well when it comes to sealing the olive (ferrule, cone etc). I presume by pipe dope you mean joining compound?
For polyethylene tubing, use polyethylene ferrule. Don't use brass (a.k.a. olive), it will cut into the poly tubing- brass is for copper tubing. Also, no plumbers tape on threads. (a mistake I've made). -When using those push together things: if/when it does leak, take it apart and re-cut the end of the tube with a proper tubing cutter, don't re-insert without cutting off that 14 inch of buggered up tubing. Also, when using compression fittings on poly, the brass sleeves are important to keep the poly tubing from collapsing. It looks like the sleeve is integrated into the barbed adaptors. Thanks again!
Exactly!
I use a razor blade to cut the poly tubing, I've asked at Lowe's of better cutting tool for this and they say razor blades. I haven't encountered any issues using brass connectors on poly tubing, just like guy on video said it does cause anxiety major. These plastic connectors are so easy and work well.
Good video. However, a brass connector to compression on a copper pipe works good. Brass to a plastic tubing works ok, but you must use a metal insert into the plastic tubing. Without that support, it will always leak. I would also attach the copper tubing to the wall and also the plastic tubing. If these are not held down, someone could tear them off by accident.
I came here to say this. 100% user error. They make compression fittings with copolymer sleeves that are meant for plastic lines.
@@steveo0409 never seen it, but will look for it next time I’m In Menards…. Thenks….
I trust a compression over an oring fitting ,
The the plastic one you pointed to was leaking because it was done wrong. You can't use compression fittings on plastic tube without the copper inserts that go inside to stabilize them!
Hmmm, I haven't been using the copper inserts and all is working well.
basically i'd do the exact opposite you've done. those push-fit fittings are made for plastic tubes. they will eventually fail on metal tubes since they can't grip as well on them..
The compression fittings never leak, unless you install them like a plumber that thinks more torque is more betterer. crushing them is what makes them leak almost everytime. screwed to contact then a light snug is all that's needed with these but everyone insists on cranking them to hell then wonder why they piss water everywhere :p
My favorite plastic fittings for 1/4" tubing are the John Guest fittings. I have used them throughout the house running RO water to multiple sink faucets and ice makers without any leaks. They also make inline quick connect valves as well.
@@curtisfamily2006 You're right. I bought several bags of clips on Amazon to use with my fittings. Don't know how much they help but I figured what the hell.
If installed correctly the compression fittings work and do not leak. The push fit you are talking about is a lot quicker, but i will stick to the compression style.
I’ve tried just about everything and they always seem to leak. I’ve never had one of these slip on unions leak over the past 5 years of using them.
Make sure you do not over tighten compression fittings and is going to be fine
5 years does not constitute an permanent repair in the universe of plumbing. Who wants to replace a ruined wood or carpeted flooring, baseboards, cabinetry because they didn't use compression fittings as they were designed to work, and instead relied upon a friction fitting. 5 years is a mere blink in time...@@diyhvacguy evealeveal
I was having such a hard time installing the traditional brass fittings to connect the two lines together. I was going to buy more of the same, but asked if they had what you are recommending and they did. It was so simple to install. I can't believe how much time I tried with the old way. Thank you! I did overpay for it at Ace at about $6.99 for one and the link that I just now clicked on that you provide gives you a 10 pack for $6.99. I might have to just buy the pack to have them on hand. Thanks this was very helpful!
OMG, I have been trying to figure out a problem I have adding drip irrigation to my Tower Garden. I just happened across your channel and found the answer in this Podcast. LOL What is the most amazing is you live in my home town!! Go figure... Thank you very much for your channel, I am now subscribed.
Cheap plastic push on connectors do leak over time especially when they are outside. Barbed fittings reduce the ID of the tubing, but they work. Brass ferrule fittings work great. On cooper the tube needs to be clean and you should use a little vegetable oil on the ferrule. It also helps to anneal the copper a bit with a propane torch and let it cool naturally. On the plastic part just use vegetable oil and only finger tight plus about a half turn, then turn on the water and tighten until it stops dripping if it’s dripping at all. Ferrule fittings work just fine and do not deteriorate like plastic in the weather. They been around forever. I absolutely do not trust cheap push to connect fittings for water in a home. If that fitting breaks that 1/4” line could do a lot of water damage.
To each his own. Thanks for the feedback
Thanks for posting the video. It was a headache for myself until I learned when connecting to poly tubing we must have a insert in the pipe to prevent leaks so the compression fitting, ferrule can really clamp down strong.
Never use a brass compression ferro on plastic pipe. They make platstic ferro's for that. Slip fittings also have a lock ring you should be using.
Tons of value on every single videos, thank you
This is what I needed! I'm used to good quality compression fittings for gas welding equipment and the ones for water just suck. Another trip to home Depot 😅
those metal brass inserts are almost a must have whenmessing with plastic tubing ,,the quickdisconnects are beutiful when it comes to hooking up plastic lines whether their water or air. its better to use an insert on the quick disconnects ,but i have had fair luck with out them but better to have .
ty for reminding me about the connectors ,being an x trucker i forgot all about those.
Problem with compression fittings on plastic pipe is people tend to give them the same amount of torque as they would when doing up a joint on copper pipe work. Compression fittings can be used on plastic pipe no problem, but you need to nip them up enough so that it the olive doesn’t grip the pipe properly or gets squashed into the plastic itself. Generally speaking, compression fittings should be done up with a bit of PTFE tape (Teflon as you guys call it) around the olive or smear on some jointing compound as doing them up dry can be risky.
Thank you!! I need to buy tubing and fittings for my swamp cooler and this really helps. I love the push to connect idea for repair when tubing gets punctured. Love the plastic ones. I did find that they have them at Lowes, so they probably have them at HD.
Very good. Thats great info. I was struggling with that brass coupling with the ferrow's and inserts and after 3 tries I figured I just need new brass. I'll try those plastic deals tomorrow. Yes they are aggravating. Thank for the video
Went looking for reviews on the Uxcell brand ones I'm seeing on Walmart's website.
Looking to rip out & redo a crusty 20+ yr old line. Unfortunately it's copper line from the hot side to brass compression T. Under the sink, through cupboards, over a doorway, to the fridge.
A 1961 built all original house definitely comes with some DIY tasks. After signing, we've dropped $17k in the first week.
Nice! Seriously thank you for taking the time to make these useful videos. Learn a lot from you . Best regards, Greg in Vancouver
Of course! It was a shorty but I hope you found it helpful!
Very helpful, I am always hesitant with any flare fittings or plumbing in general. Bad experience with water flooding
It’s important to inform everyone that the fittings you are promoting are NOT UV rated and are not rated for outdoors.
Good call. I’ve used them outside for swamp coolers and on roofs with no problems. 🤷🏻♂️
If you do not put an insert into the end of the 1/4" plastic tubing, yes they will leak, but with the insert, they will not.
I’ve tried it both ways and most of the time they leak.. 🤷🏻♂️
@@diyhvacguy a little teflon tape around the feral pretty much guarantee no leak! 36 years experience here! I like your channel buddy!!
And those that leak always lack an insert. If you are skipping the insert, you are asking for fitting failure, and the solution to that problem is to install the fitting with all the components needed and torqued properly. Then sit back and wait to see what happens. Correctly installed compression fittings will not leak and will outlive virtually everyone reading this post.
QUICK QUESTION: I want to add an in-line carbon water filter - can I just cut the supply line and insert each cut end into the filter w/o a compression fitting? 🤔 Thanks🤠😎
I’m a plumbing contractor and this guy couldn’t be more wrong. Never use a shark bite fitting inside a house. It’s good for a temporary fix, but over time the rubber O-rings start to deteriorate and the fitting starts leaking.
Brass compression fittings work the best if it’s done correctly. You have to use a plastic ferrule on pex pipe and the brass ferrule on copper pipe. Also, put some pipe dope on the threading.
These push to connect unions or fittings are made to connect plastic to plastic, but works for copper to plastic too?!?!? That’s convenient. So if I have a 1/4” to 1/4” push on valve, I don’t need this union; I can directly go copper from in the inlet to plastic to outlet of my valve?
Push to connect!! Exactly what I was hoping for!
Thank you 🍻 🍻
I'm off to Lowes
The two things I norice here is barbed fitting choke the flow number 1. That quarter tube just became eighth inch whether you care or not. 2. Material choices.
Plastic is brittttle, what will be flowing through it?
Would you make a video about heat pumps?
Good video ! Yea, totally agree on the brass coupling they seem to leak after a period of time. Also agree on the poly fitting. I have used them for 10 years now & they do work well. No leaks so far on a water filter job using poly fittings after 10 years. Was there a couple days ago & still doing well.
Gotta use plastic compression rings on plastic. They leak frequently on you because the metal digs into the pipe and can’t actually compress.
Does the manufacturer recommend a clamp to secure the tube on the barb fitting? I know on larger barbs, you usually use some kind of clamp. I'd probably be tempted to grab a tiny hose clamp from the parts bin for that guy just for some extra insurance.
I’m not sure on that but boy if you try and pull that off you won’t be able to. If I want to reuse one of these fittings I’ll have to cut the tubing off of the fitting. It’s pretty small. Not sure if one could find a clamp that small anyhow
Single barb fittings used with nylon or polyethylene tube require no insert or clamp, but I still trust the compression fittings.
@@diyhvacguy McMaster Carr has almost any fitting or clamp you would ever need. Those barbed fitting are often used for pneumatic controls like actuators and dampers. They usually carry air pressure. I never see them leaking when used with the correct tubing. They should be fine for water, but once again if it’s water and it does leak there could be a major problem. If that tube is in the sun it could get so hot it builds pressure, softens, and blows that tube right off that barb. With air you hear a hissing noise and fix the leak. With water you could be calling your liability insurance company to repair water damage or calling a lawyer when the customer sues. Just saying.
How do I connect 3/4” soft copper tubing to 3/4” soft copper tubing in my compressed air line? This is driving me nuts.
The ID of hard copper pipe is 0.75” and the OD of soft copper tubing is 0.75”. So one would think that I could use an inch of hard copper pipe as a sleeve and solder them together. But there’s a small amount of slop in there and I worry about getting a good seal. Any ideas?
Thanks,
Paul
my buddy has a swamp cooler just like that always having issues with leakage on that 1/4 line. great video
There you go! No more leaks I promise
Thanks for the tip. I really appreciate it 🙏
Thank you I’ll try that tomorrow
I've been trying to figure out what I want to do with this mobile home that has copper water lines, bottom is 3/8 in and the top goes into a 1/2 in with a plastic insert part that pushes against the flare pipe when tightened to create a seal. Its leaking right under the 1/2 nut at the pipe flare dipping down the pipe its not like a fast drip its just a slow drip but yeah its annoying lol. I know when I went to a plumber shop they told me to use 3/8 compression fittings on the pipe and then just hook up a water supply line to it. I don't see a 1/2'' barbed adapter but I do see 3/8 in push to connect I might need to do some more research.
Hooked up many ice maker or humidifier lines with 1/4" nuts. If a little poly line, are you using a stiffener and nylon ferrule? I rarely have any problems. Sounds like installer error man.
Ive even seen a brass ferrule on a poly line. Thats a last resort as itll cut into the poly...but yea...generally i have 0 issues.
Thank you for the information and the links.
very cool tips thank you for your videos and always looking out for your customers .
You showed the barbed fitting with no pipe, then the barbed fitting with the plastic tube connected and finished, but you didn't actually show the plastic being connected, which is the most important part 🤔.
It just slides on. Sorry about that. I didn’t have my tripod with me otherwise I’d have shown that part!
How do I know if this is legal to use this where I live?
New video idea - am I the first person to ever think abt opening some ductwork in my attic to get some cold air in the attic when it is 130 deg in my attic? Is there an open / close fitting that I could install in my ductwork to temp push a/c into my attic when I need it?
Both are great ideas.
Viewers. Always read the comments section for good advice. Often professional plumbers make comments.
What about larger pipe, such as the half inch copper pipe used for water supply lines to bathroom and kitchen sinks, which feed into shutoff valves below the sink? Are you making the same recommendation against using compression-fitted shutoff valves?
No I’ve never had an issue with compression valves. Just the small 1/4” ones I always seem to get a leak. These fittings are so much easier and I love them
Lol the orings in that press on coupling will go bad and it'll leak for sure
Absolutely correct. Press on couplings are only as good as the rubber gasket, and those of us who've been around rubber gaskets and washers for more than a few decades know exactly what to expect from them. Failure.
I've used the compression fittings for 60+ years and NEVER had one leak or fail.
You are a rare breed sir. I’ve done everything they say and they always seem to leak. These things are fantastic
and five years experience to "prove" it. Not enough I've 55 years of real life use of compression fittings without a single failure. Shark bight style fittings are an expensive and far less durable solution to something that is not a problem when installed correctly.
Can you tell me the name of that white plastic piece?
Thank you much
Great Video. Thank you for sharing
very helpful. thank you!
Thanks you so much!
Like a sharkbite? Lol it basically is. Sharkbite is just a brand that makes primarily ptc (push to connect fittings)
I question this guy as he omitted showing ALL connections being connected. Made it look so simple easy but my own experience it's not.
He did skip over few important details but personally gave me enough to go on and I'm luving the plastic connectors vs. copper ones.
I'm running out tomorrow to get this for my cooler
You need to use a delrin or plastic ferrule on plastic tubing or it will leak
Cool. Thanks.
ever tried using a sleeve fitting?
I blown cold air into the attic using super strong fan. Has anybody considered installing a fitting on their ductwork to temp redirect cold air into the attic if u have to be up there during summer? Would love to see if anyone has ever thought of this or tried it!
Yea that would be really smart! A swamp cooler is one way of helping in that regard. They make small portable plug in ones
Typically attics aren't insulated conforming space areas. That ac will be working hard. You'll pay for it
How well does the poly tubing hild up outside being id the sun every day?
Holds up great!! I haven’t had a single issue with these fittings
No need for tape and or pipe dope?
Like that great job 😊 thanks you as always 😊
They are only used everywhere…
Good info. But I think every time you said "pipe," correct would have been to say "tube."
what is that thing some kind of swamp cooler air conditioner unit?
Yesir, it’s an evaporative cooler. We have a lot of them out here in the west where it’s low humidity. I’ll do a video on it soon explaining how they work! Cheers
@The DIY HVAC Guy Yeah, I haven't seen those either. We (me and my family) reside on the East Coast. Although, I keep a window banger (portable ac window unit) set aside for Hurricane season. Just in case we lose power for weeks. Decades ago, I learned the hard way. It's miserable, not having AC, especially with the heat/ humidity index off the charts.
Great information! Thanks
whelp wish i saw this before i tried the old way 3 times in a row
1000% user error. you used copper sleeves on plastic line. must use copolymer sleeves instead.
Compression fittings are the worst.
Never had a leak no dope no tape. Maybe try two wrenches when u tighten
Thank you sir.
Compression fittings don't leak if done properly. Good luck doing it the wrong way!
Excellent thank you