Nice build, I don't have one, and your the first to inform me of this device, so I cheated and skipped ahead A-LOT. Now all be need is a part 3, so we can see what it does.
Removing the smd inductors: I got a very cheap second soldering iron, maybe from harbor freight, two irons at the same time makes it easier and safer, when both ends get melted you can’t help but move it a little and the part will usually stick to the tip of one of the two irons as you lift off and you just shake it off. 73
I used to scrape enamel just like that, than I figured out it is more efficient and less painful to put the wire under a piece of hard rubber instead of your fingers :)
I was trying to tell you to do L9 before L1....but you couldn't hear me!! Those things were a pain. You learned a few things along the way. It was good to see you adapting and overcoming each obstacle. I might put a dab of superglue/threadlock on the nut/thread of the transistor heatsink(?) washer....antivibration Are you going to put a coating (conformal?!) on the finished board to protect from damp corrosion?
Yes! I did think about putting some loctite on the heatsink screw, but was lazy. Besides, I already managed to blow up one of those transistors! Luckily I was back in service after replacing all 4. Cleaning off the flux and adding some conformal coating is probably a good idea, but for now I think I want to keep it easy to work on. I figure especially since it's version 1, I might need to tweak things down the road.
You make a novice soldering mistake by not using a good sized blob of fresh solder on your iron's tip when attempting to remove the SMT capacitors. It's counter-intuitive since you are trying to remove a component, but the additional solder on the tip is needed to provide heat conduction to the component in order to get its solder to melt. It always takes more solder to remove a component than it does to install it. Any solder that is left after the part has been removed can easily be removed with solder wick, so pile it on. An FYI, I teach soldering to hams since I've been doing it for 60 years and have been a NASA certified assembler for over 40 of them.
![GEEK TIMË [OFFICIAL AUDIO]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ry-6RvkH880/mqdefault.jpg)
Mine finally shipped from Turkey. Nice to have a look at what I am in for. Thanks.
Nice build, I don't have one, and your the first to inform me of this device, so I cheated and skipped ahead A-LOT.
Now all be need is a part 3, so we can see what it does.
Removing the smd inductors: I got a very cheap second soldering iron, maybe from harbor freight, two irons at the same time makes it easier and safer, when both ends get melted you can’t help but move it a little and the part will usually stick to the tip of one of the two irons as you lift off and you just shake it off. 73
I used to scrape enamel just like that, than I figured out it is more efficient and less painful to put the wire under a piece of hard rubber instead of your fingers :)
ah but where's the danger in that? ;)
big job
I was trying to tell you to do L9 before L1....but you couldn't hear me!! Those things were a pain.
You learned a few things along the way. It was good to see you adapting and overcoming each obstacle.
I might put a dab of superglue/threadlock on the nut/thread of the transistor heatsink(?) washer....antivibration
Are you going to put a coating (conformal?!) on the finished board to protect from damp corrosion?
Unfortunately I was only watching, not doing!
Yes! I did think about putting some loctite on the heatsink screw, but was lazy. Besides, I already managed to blow up one of those transistors! Luckily I was back in service after replacing all 4. Cleaning off the flux and adding some conformal coating is probably a good idea, but for now I think I want to keep it easy to work on. I figure especially since it's version 1, I might need to tweak things down the road.
You make a novice soldering mistake by not using a good sized blob of fresh solder on your iron's tip when attempting to remove the SMT capacitors. It's counter-intuitive since you are trying to remove a component, but the additional solder on the tip is needed to provide heat conduction to the component in order to get its solder to melt. It always takes more solder to remove a component than it does to install it. Any solder that is left after the part has been removed can easily be removed with solder wick, so pile it on.
An FYI, I teach soldering to hams since I've been doing it for 60 years and have been a NASA certified assembler for over 40 of them.
who?