Hi, thank you very much for your video, i really appreciated it :) i have read all comments so maybe my experience will help someone : i have bought a house in 2014 (brick house, 350 square meters, built during soviet era in 1989 . ~14 years ago previous owners insulated air gap in the walls with spray foam ) and there was Atmos DC50S installed (made in 2000) . Also all radiators are made of steel (old cast iron radiators where replaced in ~2000) . Fan bearings where noisy already when i bought the house , but while it is spinning i do nothing ( it has beet this way for the last 10 years ) . Once i had to change capacitor for fan motor, that's it :) There are no accumulator tanks ( thick brick walls does grate job at accumulating heat) , chimney inner lining made of stainless steel tube, so although chimney height is ~ 13meters it is not enough draft for operation without the fan. I have one thermostat that controls pump in short loop around the boiler, and another controls pump that feed the house with hot water, i adjusted everything so, that return water temperature to boiled does not drop below ~60C . So basically i don't need ladomat ( it is installed, but it does not performed any function except pump, temperature gauges and maybe one way valve). When i fire up the boiler, temperature in house rises over my liking, but my wife loves when it is sauna in the house, and in the evening and night temperature drops for comfort sleeping, so it works for us that way. I have abused this boiler for 10 years, burning everything that burns and i am very pleased with the performance :) after 10 years of abuse, ceramic nozzle looks worse than in this video , sealant ropes on the doors are compressed and burned out, ceramic lining on top doors is totally gone but the boiler is going strong, i like it very much :) I made one modification, i added speed controller for the fan motor. I don't let fan to switch off when temperature too high, i just adjust fan speed not to reach that point. There was no need to clean chimney for the past three years, there is no soot. I just clean boiler fins in the back few time a season and that's it. Now i am thinking it is time for replacing nozzle , door sealant ropes and installing a new ceramic plate on top doors. If i burn dry birch, i need ~20-25 cubic meters of wood in a season. Also i was burning dead and dry pine for a few seasons ( ~25 cubic meters a season) and during those seasons i did not noticed any degradation of ceramic. So i think atmos would lasted me a life time if i was burning only dead and dry pine and not birch, oak and plastic junk :) And for the last five year i am thinking it would be great to make controller with arduino, to control pump speeds, fan speed, flap position in the back, to monitor all temperatures and maybe O2 metering :D i think i could save ~5 cubic meters of wood during the season :D
Hi. Thanks for the vídeo. It was really usefull! I used the hidraulic jack as i read no the comments. A question… the white glue you use is the thing on a bag that is inside the box????
Hi. Yes, it is! As an advice, try to do something different than I did in this video (you will save time): try not to mold that glue around as I did, but instead, put it directly on the backside of the new nozzle, of course, after you prepare it frst. Then turn your nozzle upside down, and put the glue directly on the nozzle sides. This way you will get uniformity around it and a perfect contact inside.
Conform instructiunilor, pentru sanatatea cazanului, ar trebui ca termostatul responsabil sa fie reglat undeva in jurul valorii de 65 de grade. Ideea e ca exhaustorul sa nu mearga aiurea. Daca mai e jar, creste temperatura in cazan, pompele vor recircula din nou, iar apa pe retur va scadea si temperatura in cazan. Daca exhaustorul e setat la o temperatura de inchidere mica (ex. 40 de grade), atunci va merge destul de mult timp aiurea, intrucat nici jar nu mai e sau e prea putin ramas ca sa mai creasca temperatura in cazan. Din acest motiv e bine si pentru ventilator si pentru cazan, ca temperatura minima de retur sa fie aceeasi si pentru inchiderea exhaustorului.. adica 60-65 de grade.
Da. O singura data. Daca functionarea e corespunzatoare in timp, datorita procesului de gazeificare, exista o probabilitate mare ca, la un moment dat, ceramica de jos sa crape.
Hi there. 11 winteres in my case. But time is relative to way of using, wood quality, exhausting, cleaning, and so on. But an average of 10 years usage I think it is ok.
@@ferrarimihailescu4274 this is my first winter with this stove ( atmos 25gs) and I am learning how to burn it efficiently. how much storage tank do you have? do you have laddomat? do you burn in the stove using an exhaust fan or on a natural chimney draft?
@@szymonstarczynski585 The best way to use your stove is to respect those indicated by Atmos in the book... dry wood, type of wood, Landdomat is also their choice, connection to chimney and also the chimney build. Further on I assume your choice for this boiler 25GS, was according to your place size and insulation and the number of heaters inside. Regarding using fan or natural draft, I think it would be better to stay only on natural chimney draft, but you have to check very often if the specs written are met in that case (retur temps in your Landdomat, would be the most important). But from what I could notice, the gasification process takes place only with the fan involvement. If gasification don't take place, there would be bad for the boiler as there would be a lot of corrosive deposits. But then again, it all depends if your needs are met inside the house. I my case I try to stay by the book, although I don't have a Landdomat in between but, instead, 2 pumps (outgoing and incoming) which they are ok so far. Anyways, thanks for your questions as it gave my a reason for another video on this!
@@ferrarimihailescu4274 in Poland, where I live, it's hard to find any information about atmos stoves, so it's nice to read advice from a long-time user. do you have a large accumulation tank for the stove?
Hi. By the end of last winter, I noticed the temperature inside wasn't as high as usually (like 27 degrees, with the boiler set at 80-85 degrees). So, I checked all the other sensors, outside the boiler and they seem to work ok. Then I thought the problem could reside inside the boiler and the only thing that could be wrong was the nozzle, as its holes were smashed or covered and so, the gasification process inside did not take place anymore. This thing was confirmed by the guys from Atmos spare parts shop, who sow the pictures I sent. They said that nozzle could do for another year, but they also said it is me who supposed to know best, probably thinking about the temp inside the house. So this is the story...
Atmos dc 25 již netopí na 80 stupňů.Kamna jsou 2 roky stará a již nefungují správně.Ložisko ventilátoru zničeno,SELTRON SXD67 nezohledňuje nic kromě nárůstu vratného potrubí.Spotřeba palivového dřeva je dvojnásobná sporáku Ferroterm,Es už nejde přivést teplotu na 80 stupňů.Takže ventilátor jede vždy na plný výkon,v takovém stavu samozřejmě nefunguje regulátor tahu.Zkrátka trouby ATMOS jsou běžná nepříjemnost a nadáváme na den, kdy jsme je instalovali.Byly to vyhozené peníze, protože kamna musíme vyhodit na skládku a nainstalovat fungující sporák.Je pravda, že tyto sporáky jsou levnější než jiné, ale to je obyčejné české vejce. Od začátku instalace dělali s touhle troubou problémy a obsluha neví co se děje.Takové svinstvo a český odpad kurva a už nikdy víc. když se ptají na závadu a náhradní díly, odmítají odpovědět.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. I don't know Czech, but some I think I managed to understand. I don't know what to say about that. It's understandable your frustration, but it is for the first time I hear about this sort of problems you mentioned. But, at least in my case, apart from the nozzle and door pads, I had to replace the back exhaustor, and some sensors so far,. All spares were Atmos OEM, purchased by code and it is still working ok so far, although I don't have the perfect setup, recommended in the manual. Indeed, there are very few plumbers who can do a perfect setup, or a maintenance, therefor some time we have to roll on the sleeves and do it by yourself. In your case, is bad all these happened in after 2 years. But, you can start digging around and fix each of the problems. The fan can be replaced, the regulators can be replaced, and the sensors inside the boiler can also be replaced. If the fan runs at full all the time, there is a broken sensor. I have a video on that too. If you open up the hood, you will gain access at least to 3 sensors. One of them, is the fan regulator... and so on.
@@ferrarimihailescu4274 Hello.Thank you for the explanation.The fan has been working at full power since the beginning of the furnace installation.It looks like the installers didn't install it at all.Therefore, the fan probably pulls all the temperature into the chimney.It is true that these plumbers did not know how to properly install even the Seltron parameters but I had to do it myself according to instructions.They have their own theories for problems with the stove, but they are not accurate and the stove does not work as it should.I will look for the location of the thermostat for the fan on your RUclips channel if you posted it somewhere and I will install it because the thermostat must be.The instructions also say that the fan does not always rotate at full power.The installers, of course, claim the opposite and they say that's how it should be. What did you change on the back of the stove with a chimney? Thanks again and best regards.
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Hi, thank you very much for your video, i really appreciated it :) i have read all comments so maybe my experience will help someone : i have bought a house in 2014 (brick house, 350 square meters, built during soviet era in 1989 . ~14 years ago previous owners insulated air gap in the walls with spray foam ) and there was Atmos DC50S installed (made in 2000) . Also all radiators are made of steel (old cast iron radiators where replaced in ~2000) . Fan bearings where noisy already when i bought the house , but while it is spinning i do nothing ( it has beet this way for the last 10 years ) . Once i had to change capacitor for fan motor, that's it :) There are no accumulator tanks ( thick brick walls does grate job at accumulating heat) , chimney inner lining made of stainless steel tube, so although chimney height is ~ 13meters it is not enough draft for operation without the fan. I have one thermostat that controls pump in short loop around the boiler, and another controls pump that feed the house with hot water, i adjusted everything so, that return water temperature to boiled does not drop below ~60C . So basically i don't need ladomat ( it is installed, but it does not performed any function except pump, temperature gauges and maybe one way valve). When i fire up the boiler, temperature in house rises over my liking, but my wife loves when it is sauna in the house, and in the evening and night temperature drops for comfort sleeping, so it works for us that way. I have abused this boiler for 10 years, burning everything that burns and i am very pleased with the performance :) after 10 years of abuse, ceramic nozzle looks worse than in this video , sealant ropes on the doors are compressed and burned out, ceramic lining on top doors is totally gone but the boiler is going strong, i like it very much :) I made one modification, i added speed controller for the fan motor. I don't let fan to switch off when temperature too high, i just adjust fan speed not to reach that point. There was no need to clean chimney for the past three years, there is no soot. I just clean boiler fins in the back few time a season and that's it. Now i am thinking it is time for replacing nozzle , door sealant ropes and installing a new ceramic plate on top doors. If i burn dry birch, i need ~20-25 cubic meters of wood in a season. Also i was burning dead and dry pine for a few seasons ( ~25 cubic meters a season) and during those seasons i did not noticed any degradation of ceramic. So i think atmos would lasted me a life time if i was burning only dead and dry pine and not birch, oak and plastic junk :) And for the last five year i am thinking it would be great to make controller with arduino, to control pump speeds, fan speed, flap position in the back, to monitor all temperatures and maybe O2 metering :D i think i could save ~5 cubic meters of wood during the season :D
If you install Seltron electronics bundle ,BDX20 , WCD20 and a Belimo secondary air controller you would burn one third less. With lambda probe model
Great video
Eu scot duzele cu o presa hidraulica cu cilindru sau chiar si cu un cric de 4 tone iese afara relativ usor, in maxim 2 minute.
Дякую допомогло 😅
Hi. Thanks for the vídeo. It was really usefull! I used the hidraulic jack as i read no the comments.
A question… the white glue you use is the thing on a bag that is inside the box????
Hi. Yes, it is! As an advice, try to do something different than I did in this video (you will save time): try not to mold that glue around as I did, but instead, put it directly on the backside of the new nozzle, of course, after you prepare it frst. Then turn your nozzle upside down, and put the glue directly on the nozzle sides. This way you will get uniformity around it and a perfect contact inside.
Care sunt setarile optime sa se opreasca ventilatorul dupa ce se se termina lemnele / incepe sa se raceasca ca nu mai are ce arde?
Conform instructiunilor, pentru sanatatea cazanului, ar trebui ca termostatul responsabil sa fie reglat undeva in jurul valorii de 65 de grade. Ideea e ca exhaustorul sa nu mearga aiurea. Daca mai e jar, creste temperatura in cazan, pompele vor recircula din nou, iar apa pe retur va scadea si temperatura in cazan. Daca exhaustorul e setat la o temperatura de inchidere mica (ex. 40 de grade), atunci va merge destul de mult timp aiurea, intrucat nici jar nu mai e sau e prea putin ramas ca sa mai creasca temperatura in cazan. Din acest motiv e bine si pentru ventilator si pentru cazan, ca temperatura minima de retur sa fie aceeasi si pentru inchiderea exhaustorului.. adica 60-65 de grade.
@@ferrarimihailescu4274 What is the diameter secondary air pipe?
@@Rey-wl5km Man, no I've no clue. Does it matter? It is what it is there, why bother about?
@@Rey-wl5km Man, I have no clue. It is what it is there, why bother about?
Cât costă această piesă de schimb în România?
În Italia ne decojesc
A fost exact 786 (aprox 160 euro).
Ai schimbat si ceramica din cenusar vreodata ?
Da. O singura data. Daca functionarea e corespunzatoare in timp, datorita procesului de gazeificare, exista o probabilitate mare ca, la un moment dat, ceramica de jos sa crape.
Buna seara. Cam in cat timp se usuca chitul de dedesubt?
Salut. Nu am idee, dar cred ca destul de repede. Eu abia a doua zi am verificat daca se mai misca in pozitie si era fixata.
@@ferrarimihailescu4274 Mulțumesc pentru răspuns. Dar este iarnă si nu pot aștepta mult.
hello. how long did the first pottery last?
Hi there. 11 winteres in my case. But time is relative to way of using, wood quality, exhausting, cleaning, and so on. But an average of 10 years usage I think it is ok.
@@ferrarimihailescu4274 this is my first winter with this stove ( atmos 25gs) and I am learning how to burn it efficiently. how much storage tank do you have? do you have laddomat? do you burn in the stove using an exhaust fan or on a natural chimney draft?
@@szymonstarczynski585 The best way to use your stove is to respect those indicated by Atmos in the book... dry wood, type of wood, Landdomat is also their choice, connection to chimney and also the chimney build. Further on I assume your choice for this boiler 25GS, was according to your place size and insulation and the number of heaters inside. Regarding using fan or natural draft, I think it would be better to stay only on natural chimney draft, but you have to check very often if the specs written are met in that case (retur temps in your Landdomat, would be the most important). But from what I could notice, the gasification process takes place only with the fan involvement. If gasification don't take place, there would be bad for the boiler as there would be a lot of corrosive deposits. But then again, it all depends if your needs are met inside the house. I my case I try to stay by the book, although I don't have a Landdomat in between but, instead, 2 pumps (outgoing and incoming) which they are ok so far.
Anyways, thanks for your questions as it gave my a reason for another video on this!
@@ferrarimihailescu4274 in Poland, where I live, it's hard to find any information about atmos stoves, so it's nice to read advice from a long-time user. do you have a large accumulation tank for the stove?
@@szymonstarczynski585 I have an 800 liters tank for DC32S but i should have gone with 1000 liters. At 50 kw someone has 2000 liters and it s great.
Proč na zadní straně trysky není těsnicí lano?
Hi. You have noticed right.In the back side, the nozzle must be pushed all the way and it should touch the boiler wall. Why? It is deigned that way...
neni treba:)
Good video!!
Thanks man!
What was the reason/ symthoms that you decided to change the nozzle ?
Hi. By the end of last winter, I noticed the temperature inside wasn't as high as usually (like 27 degrees, with the boiler set at 80-85 degrees). So, I checked all the other sensors, outside the boiler and they seem to work ok. Then I thought the problem could reside inside the boiler and the only thing that could be wrong was the nozzle, as its holes were smashed or covered and so, the gasification process inside did not take place anymore. This thing was confirmed by the guys from Atmos spare parts shop, who sow the pictures I sent. They said that nozzle could do for another year, but they also said it is me who supposed to know best, probably thinking about the temp inside the house. So this is the story...
Thank you, i changed the nozzle too but it was not the solution for my problem
@@aivarasjanu What's the problem in your case? Of course there could be a lot of other scenarios...
I pressed out the nozzle using a car jack
Good for you!
Atmos dc 25 již netopí na 80 stupňů.Kamna jsou 2 roky stará a již nefungují správně.Ložisko ventilátoru zničeno,SELTRON SXD67 nezohledňuje nic kromě nárůstu vratného potrubí.Spotřeba palivového dřeva je dvojnásobná sporáku Ferroterm,Es už nejde přivést teplotu na 80 stupňů.Takže ventilátor jede vždy na plný výkon,v takovém stavu samozřejmě nefunguje regulátor tahu.Zkrátka trouby ATMOS jsou běžná nepříjemnost a nadáváme na den, kdy jsme je instalovali.Byly to vyhozené peníze, protože kamna musíme vyhodit na skládku a nainstalovat fungující sporák.Je pravda, že tyto sporáky jsou levnější než jiné, ale to je obyčejné české vejce. Od začátku instalace dělali s touhle troubou problémy a obsluha neví co se děje.Takové svinstvo a český odpad kurva a už nikdy víc. když se ptají na závadu a náhradní díly, odmítají odpovědět.
Hi there. Thanks for your comment. I don't know Czech, but some I think I managed to understand. I don't know what to say about that. It's understandable your frustration, but it is for the first time I hear about this sort of problems you mentioned. But, at least in my case, apart from the nozzle and door pads, I had to replace the back exhaustor, and some sensors so far,. All spares were Atmos OEM, purchased by code and it is still working ok so far, although I don't have the perfect setup, recommended in the manual. Indeed, there are very few plumbers who can do a perfect setup, or a maintenance, therefor some time we have to roll on the sleeves and do it by yourself. In your case, is bad all these happened in after 2 years. But, you can start digging around and fix each of the problems. The fan can be replaced, the regulators can be replaced, and the sensors inside the boiler can also be replaced. If the fan runs at full all the time, there is a broken sensor. I have a video on that too. If you open up the hood, you will gain access at least to 3 sensors. One of them, is the fan regulator... and so on.
@@ferrarimihailescu4274
Hello.Thank you for the explanation.The fan has been working at full power since the beginning of the furnace installation.It looks like the installers didn't install it at all.Therefore, the fan probably pulls all the temperature into the chimney.It is true that these plumbers did not know how to properly install even the Seltron parameters but I had to do it myself according to instructions.They have their own theories for problems with the stove, but they are not accurate and the stove does not work as it should.I will look for the location of the thermostat for the fan on your RUclips channel if you posted it somewhere and I will install it because the thermostat must be.The instructions also say that the fan does not always rotate at full power.The installers, of course, claim the opposite and they say that's how it should be.
What did you change on the back of the stove with a chimney?
Thanks again and best regards.