I just cleaned mine and the power saving light come on while on the highway than the power steering came on a 10 minutes later and the ABS also till I lost power (P0010 a)
The Flat Rate Mechanic l have a 07 trailblazer with 148k. I brought it with 120k. I have made sure that I've have done all the reg maintenance myself. I use Mobil 1 and I just changed the oil the other day and I decided to pull the cam actuator and check the screens. To my delight they were very clean , just a few tiny specks of debris. this is the first time I've checked the valve timing solenoid I pulled it out and it was very clean screens were very clean . I think the previous owners must have had it serviced reg too.
My 2009 malibu with 175K just threw a CEL. Used my OBDII scanner and got the P0013 code. In all 175K miles its never used oil between changes, but just went and checked the oil it was low!! Added about 3/4 quart and CEL gone. Thanks for saving me from embarassment (or geting ripped off) at the mechanic!!!
My friend ran his oil low and way overdue car started running horrendous multiple cylinder misfires on all 6 cylinders. Codes p0018 and P0022 led me to believe this was the problem. Changed oil and took it a few miles to wash off the engine at the car wash. By the time I got done and cleared all the codes it was running like nothing ever happened. This video explains what happened thanks! 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3 l v6
My 2005 Volvo V50 2.4i Check Engine light came on while on a trip back from SW SD to SE MN. I stopped and had the code read for free at Oreilly Auto in Rapid City, SD. P2006 was the error code for Bank 1. Since I didn’t have tools to do a solenoid replacement I scouted the web and found your post. I had an oil change done before leaving Rapid City and that solved the issue. Thanks for posting this info. I am new to Volvo’s and I’ve heard they can be pretty sensitive if not maintained properly. You saved me a lot of time and trouble!
I replaced mine before I had any codes. I then took the old ones and cleaned them by using a sonic cleaner. I always change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles so they looked pretty clean. I ran them through the sonic cleaner twice and it did remove some light granules. After cleaning I put them into a container and filled it up to the bottom of the plunger with oil so they don't rust. They are now ready to use if and when I need them.
Dude!!! I just searched Google all night for all the info you just gave me. Seriously,thank you so much. Going to go get an oil change . I’ll be back to update this.
Thanks. Had the problem with my Lexus. Oil clean, screens clean, valve cycled fine. Went to my mechanic, who is a smart guy. He just cycled it more times. After maybe a dozen or so, it failed. Replaced it and no problems. In retrospect, I probably just should have cleaned it more thoroughly. Will the next time!
Was asked by my brother in law to register his wife’s Mercedes, while they were out of town. Light was on and didn’t pass the emissions. Was going to take to a shop, but saw this video looking for a potential DIY option. Asked him when the last time he changed the oil, and he wasn’t sure. Changed his oil, drove around for about 10 minutes, parked and shutoff engine for a few minute, and when I started it up the light had cleared and went and passed the emissions test!
Thank you for this! I have this problem right now with my 2013 Malibu. I was going to change out my solenoids but now that you said that, first thing I need to do is change my damn oil!! Thanks man you just saved me $$
First thank you for your video, it was very informative and easy to follow. I only 2013 Buick Verano, when I purchased the vehicle it was at 20,000 miles. I am now at 85,000 miles and have experienced that code on my vehicle three times. Along with that code popping up my car will also shut off while in idle, this would typically happen after I start my car drove and then come to a complete stop. Each time I was able to start the car again and everything would be fine. I took my vehicle to the Buick dealer due to this engine code 3 separate times. Twice they told me they had to replace the camshaft. This last time which was about a month ago they told me that the code was due to low oil. I got the old changed and he told me that my car will be fine however my car is still shutting off while I’m driving it. They also turn the code off and now it’s not coming back on, But I’m wondering if my car is shutting off key to a camshaft iss but I’m wondering if my car is shutting off due to a camshaft issue
After having my R56 N14 engine rebuilt it was running really tough at low RPM, ok above ~2000 RPM. Taking out the vanos as you describe and cleaning it twice seems to have solved the problem. I also took out and cleaned the one-way oil check valve just below the vanos. I could see considerable sludge on the screens of the vanos, I assume residual from machining the block. In no way to I fault the machine shop, this was a very small amount of crud but I expect enough to require removing and cleaning the vanos screens twice. Really hoping that's all that's needed. Thank you for the video.
I removed a p0011 just by cleaning a ground wire near the area of the solenoid, at the front of the engine. Before the repair the truck ran rough coming up to stop signs and would buck and jerk when leaving the same stop sign. After repair the truck ran smoother and can do burnouts now lol.
not sure how you would have ever spent a few hundred bucks, any mechanic you would have taken it to would have told you it needs an oil change lmao a walmart tech would have told you that. This video is for learning about malfunctioning solenoids, little less obvious than needing oil.
@otallono you are way too trusting of ppl. I have seen ppl get ripped off whether due to malice or incompetence. Had 2 bad experiences with repair shops with this very car which raised my level of skepticism. Also had a mechanic forget to torque my lug nuts and the wheel nearly fell off on a different car. These aren't shadetree mechanics I go to either.
Hey big thank you once again bro I really appreciate persons like you that are honest sincere not trying to make a quick buck just to send you another way you could be wasting money for nothing.
If you're not self-employed you're employer hates you. My code is throwing P0011 rich bank 1 cam sensor. I'll certainly test your input, but I'm now confidant. Thanks mate.
Thnx. I got the errors and my mechanic did not know it. Kept resetting it. Pulled it out. Cleaned with brake cleaner and tested with 12v and now the code is gone. Thanks again
Also causes P300 and P012 codes at the same time. I replaced spark plugs before I realized P012 is triggered before P300. On Altima 2004 3.5 it is the one towards the front of the engine.
I got the P0011 code shortly after an oil change from an oil change chain superstore. I am always suspicious and think I will go back to a specialty shop. I have a Chevy Equinox. Thanks for the information.
Divine Diva samething happened to me. That same code keeps coming back. Now my car sometimes has a hard start or will just turn off . Ive replaced the cam sensor but code still comes back
Yup - checked the oil on my '18 Colorado 2.5, and it was low. Had a couple quarts in the garage from another car I sold. Added one, drove it and the problem had disappeared. No other video mentions this.
Thank you. I have a 2014 Cadillac ATS 2.0T . I am having 2 times now in 1 year, these codes. I replaced the solenoid once, and was about to do it again.. but I will try to clean as you suggest my friend... Thank you !!
I cleaned 2012 GMC Terrain the exhaust solenoid (Code P0013) and cleared the code. 2 days later, Code P0011 appeared and the car began running rough and stalled at stop lights if did not push a bit on the accelerator. P0011 is apparently another camshaft related item that I need to fix in order to pass emissions test. I wonder why this second code popped up as I pulled into the testing station. Spooky. Hope I can find a video about that 'quickly'. You have a great way of presenting your information. Thanks.
i changed my valve cover on my 2002 vw gti. i never had this code until i changed the valve cover. my oil was due for a change and i changed it but the code came back. i’m gonna take a look at the vvt solenoid
It never ends sometimes. Seems like you fix one thing and it's a chain reaction until the whole thing is about rebuilt. I replaced a radiator and ended up replacing the transmission line. Started leaking right after the 1st repair.
Ive changed these before when i was having issues shifting gears, the problem is back with a p1811 code (transmission solenoid) hopefully this fixes it again. That was 3 years ago and about 80k miles ago.
I just got this code on a family owned 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5L ( QR25DE ) engine , the problem is it hesitate during throttle ( on Drive or Park ), at first I thought it was the timing , but then I scanned it and P0011 is the code . this is what I found , in 2007 Nissan made a recall on these particular year model and engine class regarding the camshaft sensor faulty reading ( overheating ) and disrupting the ECM faster than it could calculate and signal back . so I replaced both VVT sensor and the camshaft sensor , it is still doing that . now I must open the timing chain cover and inspect the timing DTC . I got the PDF file and it shows it can be even triggered by a coolant temperature sensor or oil pressure pump , and so on . I tested all the sensors and they all are working according to manual procedure. I tell you : these new cars are not worth buying at all .
I recently picked up a 12 year old Buick for my wife. It passed my scanner with flying colors but right after I buy it we notice it hesitated a little at start up sometimes. Nothing serious and I wasn't real concerned for as old as the car is. . I changed the oil/filter and air filter just for the sake of buying a used car. Both were just a little dirty. Nothing serious. I was not expecting the start up hesitation to go away but it did. My wife noticed zero hesitation after a week of driving and swears whatever I did fixed it. I was baffled that it went away. Maybe it's the clean oil. Or maybe its the Wix oil filter which is noted for its quality check valve. I dunno.
Well I was going to work this morning and the check engine light and the 4wd light came on my dash. Also the cruise control light started flashing. When I got to work, I plugged in my obd2 scanner and it said p0012. (This is on a Toyota RAV4 v6). It said bank 1 . Got home and this engine has four solonoids. I went ahead and took all of them out, one by one and cleaned with brake cleaner. Took a pick and moved the plungers. Reinstalled and boom! Lights are gone! Thank you sir. Now for an oil change.👍. I'm still not sure why the 4wd and cruise lights came on?
I just replaced one on my 2003 tbird for a slow oil leak out of the connector and ordered a cheap one off of Rockauto. Now I have the POO12 code. Just ordered a genuine Ford one. Lesson learned.
I replaced my VCT(along with the 2 camshaft sensors) and I still experience the issue. what should I be checking next? runs super smooth if I disconnect them.
@@ceewood1354 After several weeks of tinkering with this, one advice I had was to simply go to a heavier oil. So for grins, 1qt of LUCAS. Last 3 days not an issue. Talked to my tech, he mentioned that it was a good idea, as it is likely the OP has gone down (277k mi). There hasn't even been a hickup. Along with this screwed in some new plugs (old were yellow and torqued in NGK) and a whole set of new coils. So will be changing the oil Friday, and switching to some rotella. Conclusion: 1qt of LUCAS for me did the trick. thanks for taking time to reply back. Just forgot to come back and give an update.
i recently had the timing belt and sump cleaned and the engine light was not removed. Could error P0014 be related to the work done relating to this work done which was supposed to resolve errors P15A8 at all? Is the work the mechanic carried out incomplete?
My Sienna used to get P0012 at times, even with new oil. Even after cleaning the valve, which wasn't dirty. It could be thousands or even ten of thousands miles between codes. Then it went probably 100,000 miles fine. Just today P0012 came up again. Weird.
If the solenoid haves been sticking for anytime this will cause the coil to heat up and swell if you see the canister is swollen or burnt the cylinder is bad and no amount of cleaning Will Repair it
I got a nissan sentra giving this code and p0300 changed spark plugs nothing changing oil tomorrow ( at 6 k now since last oil change ) and going to clear the codes and see (before i commit any more money to ignition coil and changing the vvt solenoid
my 2013 sonata had the p0014 code come on, then the engine stopped while driving on the highway, had it towed, changed the oil,cleaned the solenoid, after unplugging the battery for a few hours tried it again a few times and it finally started up again, left it in park for a few minutes, tapped on the gas and it stopped again and there was a bit of smoke. What could have happened?
My Mini cooper has the exact same solenoid and when I pulled it out of my car, the cetre screen was present but the 2 screens on the ends as like yours were not present. Is this fine for use on my car?
Hello, i have Problems with P2090 on an Peugeot 3008 1,2 Turbp 130 HP EB2DTS Engine. Do you have any Tips for me. The Steering Time are 100% correctly. Both Aktuators are new. Regards Peter
On a 2007 Ford Edge if I replace bank 1 solenoid and want to go ahead and replace bank 2 while I’m at it, will it take the same solenoid? The code had been coming up since 2016 I know I’m terrible but situation made it hard for me to get fixed 🙄just now started running really rough! Thanks for the video😊
There is a company called Quantum Solenoid they say their replacement will give Toyota 1.8 in a 2017/18Corolla /2016 Scion iM more power could this be true ? For $175.00 VS a Stock One $55.00 how long do they last ?I don’t need one I was just curious Thanks Sept 2019👍
I have code p0010 says variable valve timing screen need replaced but I have a rattle and it’s very loud now after a bit of driving . The car will shut off I have to start it again. And it’ll do it a few more times til I reach destination. I have a 2009 Honda Accord no oil in car.
2007 QX56 changed both solenoids and have not been able to get rid of the engine light and can not pass smog check. any other suggestions. Are both solenoids the same? or could i have placed them in the wrong location?
I get a check engine light that throws a p0012 code on my 2018 Ford F-150 XL 3.3L only when I am towing my travel trailer up steeper grades usually above 4,000 ft? I use the recommended manufacturers motor oil and change my oil and filter regularly. Any idea what might be causing this?
Hello the Great man I have a Reaunalt megan 1.6 manual and I checked by code reader and I find, P0010 A camshaft position A control Circuit/ open bank 1 and actually I don't know from where I have to check the car?
I wasn’t going to buy one y til I found where that part is and saw the dang thing halfway hanging by a thread underneath the connector soo rn at the moment riding it until I buy a new one sadly
Great video, changing our oild this week. Ive been looking for the solenoid (MG3 1.5 litre), think its on top of the cam cover, at the pulley end of the engine. Cant see a bolt though, just looks like you pull it out. Dont want to force anything though, anyone help please ? Tom.
hey tom im a little late but usually the solenoids are at the top of the engine or on the sides depending on the car im not sure if you have figured it out but maybe try searching up an engine diagram for your specific car.
I had a rat get into my engine compartment because it made a nice cozy place. It ate many wires. The dealer wanted me to buy new valve actuators. They're discontinued. That turned out to be a blessing because that would have cost thousands. I took it home and bought some 16 ga wire w/silicone jacket, and a box of those handy splice deelies. It ran really bad. I thought the top wire would go to the top actuator and so on, right? No. So I cut the lines and connected them the opposite way and it runs ok but it idles a little ..bumpy. I need to figure out which one is the intake and which is the exhaust. And I guess they call the right side of the engine, the left. I guess it's the left if you look at the engine from the front but that's not normal. ANYWAY, can anyone tell me on a 2003 VW Passat W8 (4.0 L V8) which one is the intake and which is the exhaust? I didn't clear the codes first. That just came to me as I was typing. I'll try that but I would still like to clean that wiring mess and put a connector on it. Can you believe that the actuator has a wire that goes to the ECM without a single connector between? The rat chewed the wire to the nub on one and there's no doing that one over. Mine don't just come out like his. Anyway, it makes it harder to diagnose and fix if I don't know which is which. HEY FOLKS, I just cleared those codes with a cheap ODB2 bluetooth thing and an app. The codes are gone, the engine light is clear and I guess my mess of a soldering works. I'd still like to put a connector in it and cut those "extra" connectors out so it doesn't look so dumb but if it works don't fix it. There I went and bought a complete set of new plugs and coils and O2 sensors. I've cleared the code before by disconnecting the battery, but the engine light kept coming back on. Now I'm wondering if I kept it from reading a bad code. I just can't believe it's working. I just punched the gas and it runs fine. A tune up is a good idea. 85,000 miles and never a change of plugs or coils. Maybe it will idle smoother with NGK Ruthenium plugs and new coils. Probably. I'd still like to know which actuator is which. If the code comes back, I won't know which one to monkey with. It's still seems weird that I had to cross the cables. The top wire goes to the bottom, ha ha, that bit. Why would anyone design that? Strange. Now it's idling smoothly. It's intermittent. Tune-up scheduled when the weather is cooler in Dallas. Any help identifying which actuator is which on this engine would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for this informative video.
Hi! would this also throw a p0344 code “CMP sensor a circuit intermittent”. P0344 code is permanent and the p0011 is a stored code. I hear what sounds like lifter noise(kind of like rod knockin).. it’s at the dealer right now with only 2k miles hopefully it’s all covered under warranty
I (a shop) changed my knock sensors on my 2014 Silverado 5.3L VVT. Took it to the dealer and had the code cleared. Code just came back and I noticed a slight valve clatter when the CEL comes on, but it is very slight and goes away almost immediately yet throws the knock sensors codes. Could this just be my VVT solenoid needing cleaned or changed? The truck sounds very healthy otherwise and has no knocks or ticks and no misfire codes.
SaucyBegger25 - My car’s symptoms were delayed throttle response of about 1-2 seconds, followed by over acceleration and erratic throttle. The delayed throttle response made the car less safe to drive when you are trying to time a left hand turn on a busy street. This only happened once in a while but got progressively worst over time. The symptoms went away when the car was turned off and restarted, so diagnosing it was a pain in the ass. Performing the work as described in this video helped the car for sure. It’s been a couple of months with no signs of this problem. My car is a bit of an oil burner so sludge buildup probably caused the issue.
Ariel Vasquez yeah it’s very strange. I would hit second and the throttle would dip right down then all of a sudden power. Very dangerous. I was also getting no power after turning the car off after reaching temp but no restating would sort it. Had to drive it like that till I got home. It would have no power till it hit 2500rpm then power would come back n be ok till I come to a complete stop. Then same again. Once car is cold it would be fine. Very hesitant while driving too at high rpm like the brakes were on randomly. Fuel economy was 27mpg and drinking fuel. Now I’ve taken them out n removed filters it’s full of power and I’m getting 44mpg driving about and it’s even doing 60+ mpg on long runs. Amazing how these can cause all that trouble. Glad yours is sorted 👍🏻 I was quoted 180 at least for parts n fitting. You can buy a pair for 45£ on eBay and just fit them your self 👍🏻 if it plays up again I’m doing that
SaucyBegger25 - a bad thermostat causes the car not to turn on after it’s warmed up. I had the same problem and also fixed it. Honestly you probably have compounding issues that need to be resolved before the car is driving fine again. You’ll have to check spark plugs too if you have power dips or hesitation. Get yourself a OBD2 scan tool and read the codes.
Ariel Vasquez no I mean it starts up fine when hot but this was just very random where I would put my foot down to go and it’s like the breaks were on. Like no power. Then I would get driving with no power till it got up to 2500rpm then bam the power comes back. I can crawl about n the powers still there. It was only when I stopped in traffic then set off it would do it all over again. I have a ob2 reader and no codes or lights ever come up. Peddle test shows nothing either. The hesitation was happening when I put my foot down n get the rpm up to over 4000rmp it would hesitate on n off like the breaks were being pressed. Changed spark plugs too as thought it was that. All plugs looked perfect when pulled. It hasn’t done that since removing the solenoids and removing the filters and cleaning the solenoids. Runs like a different car. Power in every gear. No need for sports button anymore. It runs and pulls like a 1.8 Sri now. It’s never ran like this since I bought it. Always was sluggish. Thought it was normal as it’s a zafira b n they big heavy things. It only played up if I had a car full with 7 people. Pulled like shit. Had to have sports mode on to get any speed up. Now I don’t touch sports mode. It pulls up hills like nobody is in it in 4th gear. She’s full of power at the minute. It’s only been bout a week since i cleaned solenoids though. Definitely notice the power difference and the major difference is fuel economy. I’m using next to nothing now compared to before
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The Flat Rate Mechanic its vct solenoid not vvt
I just cleaned mine and the power saving light come on while on the highway than the power steering came on a 10 minutes later and the ABS also till I lost power (P0010 a)
ggg's fan its actually vvt. Valve variable timing . I've dealt with them
The Flat Rate Mechanic epic video
The Flat Rate Mechanic l have a 07 trailblazer with 148k. I brought it with 120k. I have made sure that I've have done all the reg maintenance myself. I use Mobil 1 and I just changed the oil the other day and I decided to pull the cam actuator and check the screens. To my delight they were very clean , just a few tiny specks of debris. this is the first time I've checked the valve timing solenoid I pulled it out and it was very clean screens were very clean . I think the previous owners must have had it serviced reg too.
The first guy that has made really good sense of what he's talking about and showing you how easy it is to take out a sensor
He didnt show how to take out the valve...
seems like a fake comment
@@otallono or course its a fake comment just look at the user name.
I hate this fucken fake comments
My 2009 malibu with 175K just threw a CEL. Used my OBDII scanner and got the P0013 code. In all 175K miles its never used oil between changes, but just went and checked the oil it was low!! Added about 3/4 quart and CEL gone. Thanks for saving me from embarassment (or geting ripped off) at the mechanic!!!
My friend ran his oil low and way overdue car started running horrendous multiple cylinder misfires on all 6 cylinders. Codes p0018 and P0022 led me to believe this was the problem. Changed oil and took it a few miles to wash off the engine at the car wash. By the time I got done and cleared all the codes it was running like nothing ever happened. This video explains what happened thanks! 2007 Hyundai Santa Fe 3.3 l v6
My 2005 Volvo V50 2.4i Check Engine light came on while on a trip back from SW SD to SE MN. I stopped and had the code read for free at Oreilly Auto in Rapid City, SD. P2006 was the error code for Bank 1. Since I didn’t have tools to do a solenoid replacement I scouted the web and found your post. I had an oil change done before leaving Rapid City and that solved the issue. Thanks for posting this info. I am new to Volvo’s and I’ve heard they can be pretty sensitive if not maintained properly. You saved me a lot of time and trouble!
Thats awesome. Thanks
I replaced mine before I had any codes. I then took the old ones and cleaned them by using a sonic cleaner.
I always change my oil and filter every 3,000 miles so they looked pretty clean. I ran them through the sonic
cleaner twice and it did remove some light granules. After cleaning I put them into a container and filled it
up to the bottom of the plunger with oil so they don't rust. They are now ready to use if and when I need them.
Thank you so much for posting this. It saved me a lot of time and tons of cash. A simple oil change, and the code is gone! Greatly appreciated!
You needed this guy to tell you to change your oil???
Did you replace the part?
Dude!!! I just searched Google all night for all the info you just gave me. Seriously,thank you so much. Going to go get an oil change . I’ll be back to update this.
How did it go??. My code is P0014, and it says turbo over boost.??
@@mkkosila2095 yep. Was exactly that. Replaced the Solenoid just like he showed here. Literally haven’t had a problem and no light has come on.
@@mkkosila2095 that’s weird no car wiz , but that’s not right
Thanks. Had the problem with my Lexus. Oil clean, screens clean, valve cycled fine. Went to my mechanic, who is a smart guy. He just cycled it more times. After maybe a dozen or so, it failed. Replaced it and no problems. In retrospect, I probably just should have cleaned it more thoroughly. Will the next time!
Was asked by my brother in law to register his wife’s Mercedes, while they were out of town. Light was on and didn’t pass the emissions. Was going to take to a shop, but saw this video looking for a potential DIY option. Asked him when the last time he changed the oil, and he wasn’t sure. Changed his oil, drove around for about 10 minutes, parked and shutoff engine for a few minute, and when I started it up the light had cleared and went and passed the emissions test!
Thanks pal, I’ll try that first. I really appreciate you guys on the internet helping guys like me out.
I had the P0013 problem. The change of the oil seems to have helped. Thank you!
I went from full synthetic 5w-30 to high mileage full synthetic and it caused a check engine. I’m gonna try to switch back and see what happens
Great video! You are right this is the first step or cheapest step in trying to fix the p0011 code thats being thrown.. Ty
cant believe this worked on my brothers 2013 Buick. Saved us a lot of money! Thank you
Thank you for this! I have this problem right now with my 2013 Malibu. I was going to change out my solenoids but now that you said that, first thing I need to do is change my damn oil!! Thanks man you just saved me $$
You are very welcome.
Any update? My 2013 malibu is showing me the same
Mine is doing the same thing now
I just wanna say thank you i got an oil change and problem solved no extra money spent
First thank you for your video, it was very informative and easy to follow. I only 2013 Buick Verano, when I purchased the vehicle it was at 20,000 miles. I am now at 85,000 miles and have experienced that code on my vehicle three times. Along with that code popping up my car will also shut off while in idle, this would typically happen after I start my car drove and then come to a complete stop. Each time I was able to start the car again and everything would be fine. I took my vehicle to the Buick dealer due to this engine code 3 separate times. Twice they told me they had to replace the camshaft. This last time which was about a month ago they told me that the code was due to low oil. I got the old changed and he told me that my car will be fine however my car is still shutting off while I’m driving it. They also turn the code off and now it’s not coming back on, But I’m wondering if my car is shutting off key to a camshaft iss but I’m wondering if my car is shutting off due to a camshaft issue
Sounds like you have a bad idle control valve to me? If the idle is sounding like it’s going up and down while you sat still my money is on that 👍🏻
Stop using cheap oil. Mobile 1 oil filter high mileage formula synthetic oil an oil additive synthetic lucus oil treatment
Thank you. I really appreciate guys like you showing us how to do things right and save money. Again, big thank you.
I had that code. Pored half gallon diesel in the crankcase and run it around town and changed the oil. Took care of problem.
After having my R56 N14 engine rebuilt it was running really tough at low RPM, ok above ~2000 RPM. Taking out the vanos as you describe and cleaning it twice seems to have solved the problem. I also took out and cleaned the one-way oil check valve just below the vanos. I could see considerable sludge on the screens of the vanos, I assume residual from machining the block. In no way to I fault the machine shop, this was a very small amount of crud but I expect enough to require removing and cleaning the vanos screens twice. Really hoping that's all that's needed. Thank you for the video.
I removed a p0011 just by cleaning a ground wire near the area of the solenoid, at the front of the engine. Before the repair the truck ran rough coming up to stop signs and would buck and jerk when leaving the same stop sign. After repair the truck ran smoother and can do burnouts now lol.
What wires the connecting point
Would this happen to make my car make a noise like a grinding noise when I drive slow
@@arianaromero6307 CK your brakes
Thanks for the video! You saved me a few hundred bucks. Daughter just ran her car super low on oil
Cause that's what they do.😫😫😖😤
not sure how you would have ever spent a few hundred bucks, any mechanic you would have taken it to would have told you it needs an oil change lmao a walmart tech would have told you that. This video is for learning about malfunctioning solenoids, little less obvious than needing oil.
@otallono you are way too trusting of ppl. I have seen ppl get ripped off whether due to malice or incompetence. Had 2 bad experiences with repair shops with this very car which raised my level of skepticism. Also had a mechanic forget to torque my lug nuts and the wheel nearly fell off on a different car. These aren't shadetree mechanics I go to either.
I LOVE YOU!!! Changed the oil in my 2008 Buick Enclave CXL with a code 0014 and now it runs like a champ. Thank you so very much!!
Hey big thank you once again bro I really appreciate persons like you that are honest sincere not trying to make a quick buck just to send you another way you could be wasting money for nothing.
I was hoping this was a solution, thank you so much for putting this out there and letting us know it’s possible.
If you're not self-employed you're employer hates you. My code is throwing P0011 rich bank 1 cam sensor. I'll certainly test your input, but I'm now confidant. Thanks mate.
Did it work?
Thnx. I got the errors and my mechanic did not know it. Kept resetting it. Pulled it out. Cleaned with brake cleaner and tested with 12v and now the code is gone. Thanks again
Also causes P300 and P012 codes at the same time. I replaced spark plugs before I realized P012 is triggered before P300. On Altima 2004 3.5 it is the one towards the front of the engine.
P0075 on my Opel/Vauxhall Astra
I got the P0011 code shortly after an oil change from an oil change chain superstore. I am always suspicious and think I will go back to a specialty shop. I have a Chevy Equinox. Thanks for the information.
Divine Diva samething happened to me. That same code keeps coming back. Now my car sometimes has a hard start or will just turn off . Ive replaced the cam sensor but code still comes back
Divine Diva I got an oil change before going to my sisters 3hrs away. About an hour into my drive that code popped up. Wonder if it’s related
I want a free book
Yup - checked the oil on my '18 Colorado 2.5, and it was low. Had a couple quarts in the garage from another car I sold. Added one, drove it and the problem had disappeared. No other video mentions this.
Thank you. I have a 2014 Cadillac ATS 2.0T . I am having 2 times now in 1 year, these codes. I replaced the solenoid once, and was about to do it again.. but I will try to clean as you suggest my friend... Thank you !!
99v8cobra did the problem resolve after cleaning?
I cleaned 2012 GMC Terrain the exhaust solenoid (Code P0013) and cleared the code. 2 days later, Code P0011 appeared and the car began running rough and stalled at stop lights if did not push a bit on the accelerator. P0011 is apparently another camshaft related item that I need to fix in order to pass emissions test. I wonder why this second code popped up as I pulled into the testing station. Spooky. Hope I can find a video about that 'quickly'. You have a great way of presenting your information. Thanks.
Just got that code as well today did u figure out what was the issue
i changed my valve cover on my 2002 vw gti. i never had this code until i changed the valve cover. my oil was due for a change and i changed it but the code came back. i’m gonna take a look at the vvt solenoid
It never ends sometimes. Seems like you fix one thing and it's a chain reaction until the whole thing is about rebuilt. I replaced a radiator and ended up replacing the transmission line. Started leaking right after the 1st repair.
Thanks for sharing , would it be possible to show how to actual clean it ??
Ive changed these before when i was having issues shifting gears, the problem is back with a p1811 code (transmission solenoid) hopefully this fixes it again. That was 3 years ago and about 80k miles ago.
I just got this code on a family owned 2006 Nissan Altima 2.5L ( QR25DE ) engine , the problem is it hesitate during throttle ( on Drive or Park ), at first I thought it was the timing , but then I scanned it and P0011 is the code .
this is what I found , in 2007 Nissan made a recall on these particular year model and engine class regarding the camshaft sensor faulty reading ( overheating ) and disrupting the ECM faster than it could calculate and signal back . so I replaced both VVT sensor and the camshaft sensor , it is still doing that .
now I must open the timing chain cover and inspect the timing DTC .
I got the PDF file and it shows it can be even triggered by a coolant temperature sensor or oil pressure pump , and so on . I tested all the sensors and they all are working according to manual procedure.
I tell you : these new cars are not worth buying at all .
Same with my 06 sentra 2.5. You have any luck figuring out the issue?
Did a complete timing chain job on my QR25DE and the rattle on cold start came back after one week. Turbo, pistons, rods, springs. 18lbs
Need synthetic Lucas oil stabilizer
I recently picked up a 12 year old Buick for my wife. It passed my scanner with flying colors but right after I buy it we notice it hesitated a little at start up sometimes. Nothing serious and I wasn't real concerned for as old as the car is. . I changed the oil/filter and air filter just for the sake of buying a used car. Both were just a little dirty. Nothing serious. I was not expecting the start up hesitation to go away but it did. My wife noticed zero hesitation after a week of driving and swears whatever I did fixed it. I was baffled that it went away. Maybe it's the clean oil. Or maybe its the Wix oil filter which is noted for its quality check valve. I dunno.
Very nice information without hassle
Change the oil on my 2011 chevy aveo lt 5. After that I got p0014. I am now going to clean the screen on my camshaft oil control valve.
I heard MAF cleaner was the safest to use to clean and not brake cleaner... would you agree? Or say they are about the same?
Wow that was very helpful because I just put on new valve cover gaskets on my 740I, The those codes popped up, so I’ll be changing the oil and filter
Did it fix it when you changed ?
I literally got that today , changed my vavle cover gasket a few days ago & that code popped up
Well I was going to work this morning and the check engine light and the 4wd light came on my dash. Also the cruise control light started flashing. When I got to work, I plugged in my obd2 scanner and it said p0012. (This is on a Toyota RAV4 v6). It said bank 1 . Got home and this engine has four solonoids. I went ahead and took all of them out, one by one and cleaned with brake cleaner. Took a pick and moved the plungers. Reinstalled and boom! Lights are gone! Thank you sir. Now for an oil change.👍. I'm still not sure why the 4wd and cruise lights came on?
A lot of Toyotas will set 4wd and cruise light anytime there is an engine light. Not uncommon.
@@FlatRateMechanic Mine will leave the VSC light on for a few seconds with morning start. That's when I know to load test the battery.
Make sure you buy OEM or you'll run into trouble. Especially if you use dorman solenoid
I just replaced one on my 2003 tbird for a slow oil leak out of the connector and ordered a cheap one off of Rockauto. Now I have the POO12 code. Just ordered a genuine Ford one. Lesson learned.
@@keithwiebe1787did the oem fix this?
@@cutliss The OEM one fixed the oil leak and the code I was getting with the aftermarket one.
@@keithwiebe1787 thanks for the update. I'm going OEM for electrical engine parts now.
Thank you for sharing this video! Definitely helpful!
I replaced my VCT(along with the 2 camshaft sensors) and I still experience the issue. what should I be checking next? runs super smooth if I disconnect them.
How many CS sensors does you vehicle have? Did you get codes?. Did U change the VVT for both banks or just one?
@@ceewood1354 After several weeks of tinkering with this, one advice I had was to simply go to a heavier oil. So for grins, 1qt of LUCAS. Last 3 days not an issue. Talked to my tech, he mentioned that it was a good idea, as it is likely the OP has gone down (277k mi). There hasn't even been a hickup. Along with this screwed in some new plugs (old were yellow and torqued in NGK) and a whole set of new coils. So will be changing the oil Friday, and switching to some rotella. Conclusion: 1qt of LUCAS for me did the trick. thanks for taking time to reply back. Just forgot to come back and give an update.
@@ADHD_Gamer Super happy you found a fix!!!!!
Honda never had this issue other than clogged screens, maybe other makes and manufacturers should stop producing variable valve timing crap!!!!
Save us customers more pain in the ass
Thanks dude, doing my bank 1 soon!
What’s bank 1?
Can you use a throttle body cleaner to clean the solenoid, or it's better if it's brake cleaner?
Either will work just fine
Hi. Could you explain why a p0015 not falls into the list of errors that could be caused by clogged solenoids?
Will a bad vvt cause a knocking sound? And cause multiple cylinder misfire?
Great! Thanks for your information now can do my self.👍🔧
i recently had the timing belt and sump cleaned and the engine light was not removed. Could error P0014 be related to the work done relating to this work done which was supposed to resolve errors P15A8 at all? Is the work the mechanic carried out incomplete?
If you have 55psi at fuel rail and spark to the plugs but engine won't start, could that just be dirty solenoids or timing chain?
up north here they seiz in and break when you twist on them. vise grips and 1.2 hour later and a can of penatrating oil and broken!
My Sienna used to get P0012 at times, even with new oil. Even after cleaning the valve, which wasn't dirty. It could be thousands or even ten of thousands miles between codes. Then it went probably 100,000 miles fine. Just today P0012 came up again. Weird.
nice picture of the part....could you post where on the engine this is located and how to remove it?
It depends of the car you want to know
If the solenoid haves been sticking for anytime this will cause the coil to heat up and swell if you see the canister is swollen or burnt the cylinder is bad and no amount of cleaning Will Repair it
could this also be accompanied by misfire codes on the same bank that the solenoid is on?
I got a nissan sentra giving this code and p0300 changed spark plugs nothing changing oil tomorrow ( at 6 k now since last oil change ) and going to clear the codes and see (before i commit any more money to ignition coil and changing the vvt solenoid
I just subscribed thank you so much, curious I have the same codes Malibu 2014 P0013 POO14 I’m loosing power to the car battery goes dead
my 2013 sonata had the p0014 code come on, then the engine stopped while driving on the highway, had it towed, changed the oil,cleaned the solenoid, after unplugging the battery for a few hours tried it again a few times and it finally started up again, left it in park for a few minutes, tapped on the gas and it stopped again and there was a bit of smoke. What could have happened?
When testing by putting 12v to it, is it polarity sensitive? or does it work either way? Thansk
Not polarity sensitive at all
Soooo? eBay sent me a "interchangeable brand " my question is it okay to use a different size solenoid? It's shorter and lighter :/
if this solenoid is not workng properly would that cause the engine to overheat?
If there is additional C1280 popped up along with P0012 on RAV4? Thank you
Can a dirty VVT cause a loud rattling noise?
hello, I have changed the VVT, I still get the P0011 code. the engine is not even a year old. please advise.
thanks,
I am getting P1105 and P111A. It take 4 cranks to start mini!
I need helpppp. My 2012 mini Cooper is showing p0012 code. Change oil and oil filter just last week.
My Mini cooper has the exact same solenoid and when I pulled it out of my car, the cetre screen was present but the 2 screens on the ends as like yours were not present. Is this fine for use on my car?
Hello, i have Problems with P2090 on an Peugeot 3008 1,2 Turbp 130 HP EB2DTS Engine. Do you have any Tips for me. The Steering Time are 100% correctly.
Both Aktuators are new.
Regards Peter
On a 2007 Ford Edge if I replace bank 1 solenoid and want to go ahead and replace bank 2 while I’m at it, will it take the same solenoid? The code had been coming up since 2016 I know I’m terrible but situation made it hard for me to get fixed 🙄just now started running really rough! Thanks for the video😊
Typical woman
Would that part cost a oil leak.
VERY HELPFUL !
THANK YOU . . .
There is a company called Quantum Solenoid they say their replacement will give Toyota 1.8 in a 2017/18Corolla /2016 Scion iM more power could this be true ? For $175.00 VS a Stock One $55.00 how long do they last ?I don’t need one I was just curious
Thanks Sept 2019👍
What would cause these to continue clicking after the engine is shut off?
Awesome info! Did an oil change a boom solved! Thanks bro!
is the Problem came again?
Yeah
Deos this stop the turbo from spinning?
I have code p0010 says variable valve timing screen need replaced but I have a rattle and it’s very loud now after a bit of driving . The car will shut off I have to start it again. And it’ll do it a few more times til I reach destination. I have a 2009 Honda Accord no oil in car.
What do you clean that with?
Great video. Thanks 👍
What's the best thing to clean it with?? Brake cleaner...
I use brake cleaner, yes
2007 QX56 changed both solenoids and have not been able to get rid of the engine light and can not pass smog check. any other suggestions. Are both solenoids the same? or could i have placed them in the wrong location?
Thank you for your awesome honesty. You're great!
I get a check engine light that throws a p0012 code on my 2018 Ford F-150 XL 3.3L only when I am towing my travel trailer up steeper grades usually above 4,000 ft? I use the recommended manufacturers motor oil and change my oil and filter regularly. Any idea what might be causing this?
Do you have to worry about getting brake cleaner in your oil if you use it to clean the solenoid?
After it's clean just let the brake cleaner evaporate before putting it back in.
So my car have both the p0010 and p0020 that's all, it can be maybe dirty oil or change oil ?
Hello the Great man
I have a Reaunalt megan 1.6 manual and I checked by code reader and I find, P0010 A camshaft position A control Circuit/ open bank 1
and actually I don't know from where I have to check the car?
I wasn’t going to buy one y til I found where that part is and saw the dang thing halfway hanging by a thread underneath the connector soo rn at the moment riding it until I buy a new one sadly
Hi, can P0022 also be related to the same problem?
Thanks for your time and help 👍👍
Thank You 😊 very knowledgeable
Great video, changing our oild this week. Ive been looking for the solenoid (MG3 1.5 litre), think its on top of the cam cover, at the pulley end of the engine. Cant see a bolt though, just looks like you pull it out. Dont want to force anything though, anyone help please ? Tom.
hey tom im a little late but usually the solenoids are at the top of the engine or on the sides depending on the car im not sure if you have figured it out but maybe try searching up an engine diagram for your specific car.
I have message saying service stability trax reduce power mode
I had a rat get into my engine compartment because it made a nice cozy place. It ate many wires. The dealer wanted me to buy new valve actuators. They're discontinued. That turned out to be a blessing because that would have cost thousands. I took it home and bought some 16 ga wire w/silicone jacket, and a box of those handy splice deelies. It ran really bad. I thought the top wire would go to the top actuator and so on, right? No. So I cut the lines and connected them the opposite way and it runs ok but it idles a little ..bumpy. I need to figure out which one is the intake and which is the exhaust. And I guess they call the right side of the engine, the left. I guess it's the left if you look at the engine from the front but that's not normal. ANYWAY, can anyone tell me on a 2003 VW Passat W8 (4.0 L V8) which one is the intake and which is the exhaust?
I didn't clear the codes first. That just came to me as I was typing. I'll try that but I would still like to clean that wiring mess and put a connector on it. Can you believe that the actuator has a wire that goes to the ECM without a single connector between? The rat chewed the wire to the nub on one and there's no doing that one over. Mine don't just come out like his. Anyway, it makes it harder to diagnose and fix if I don't know which is which. HEY FOLKS, I just cleared those codes with a cheap ODB2 bluetooth thing and an app. The codes are gone, the engine light is clear and I guess my mess of a soldering works. I'd still like to put a connector in it and cut those "extra" connectors out so it doesn't look so dumb but if it works don't fix it. There I went and bought a complete set of new plugs and coils and O2 sensors. I've cleared the code before by disconnecting the battery, but the engine light kept coming back on. Now I'm wondering if I kept it from reading a bad code. I just can't believe it's working. I just punched the gas and it runs fine. A tune up is a good idea. 85,000 miles and never a change of plugs or coils. Maybe it will idle smoother with NGK Ruthenium plugs and new coils. Probably. I'd still like to know which actuator is which. If the code comes back, I won't know which one to monkey with. It's still seems weird that I had to cross the cables. The top wire goes to the bottom, ha ha, that bit. Why would anyone design that? Strange. Now it's idling smoothly. It's intermittent. Tune-up scheduled when the weather is cooler in Dallas.
Any help identifying which actuator is which on this engine would be greatly appreciated. Thanks for this informative video.
Oil has been religiously changed and checked got a P0014 change oil cleaned exhaust bank solenoid I can drive 10 miles and code comes back
Hi! would this also throw a p0344 code “CMP sensor a circuit intermittent”. P0344 code is permanent and the p0011 is a stored code. I hear what sounds like lifter noise(kind of like rod knockin).. it’s at the dealer right now with only 2k miles hopefully it’s all covered under warranty
I (a shop) changed my knock sensors on my 2014 Silverado 5.3L VVT. Took it to the dealer and had the code cleared. Code just came back and I noticed a slight valve clatter when the CEL comes on, but it is very slight and goes away almost immediately yet throws the knock sensors codes. Could this just be my VVT solenoid needing cleaned or changed? The truck sounds very healthy otherwise and has no knocks or ticks and no misfire codes.
Shoot, I just paid my mechanic for something I could have done myself. I hope this fixes the issue on my Mini Cooper Countryman.
What were your symptoms? I had loss of power, sluggish and bad fuel mileage
SaucyBegger25 - My car’s symptoms were delayed throttle response of about 1-2 seconds, followed by over acceleration and erratic throttle. The delayed throttle response made the car less safe to drive when you are trying to time a left hand turn on a busy street. This only happened once in a while but got progressively worst over time. The symptoms went away when the car was turned off and restarted, so diagnosing it was a pain in the ass. Performing the work as described in this video helped the car for sure. It’s been a couple of months with no signs of this problem. My car is a bit of an oil burner so sludge buildup probably caused the issue.
Ariel Vasquez yeah it’s very strange. I would hit second and the throttle would dip right down then all of a sudden power. Very dangerous. I was also getting no power after turning the car off after reaching temp but no restating would sort it. Had to drive it like that till I got home. It would have no power till it hit 2500rpm then power would come back n be ok till I come to a complete stop. Then same again. Once car is cold it would be fine. Very hesitant while driving too at high rpm like the brakes were on randomly. Fuel economy was 27mpg and drinking fuel. Now I’ve taken them out n removed filters it’s full of power and I’m getting 44mpg driving about and it’s even doing 60+ mpg on long runs. Amazing how these can cause all that trouble. Glad yours is sorted 👍🏻 I was quoted 180 at least for parts n fitting. You can buy a pair for 45£ on eBay and just fit them your self 👍🏻 if it plays up again I’m doing that
SaucyBegger25 - a bad thermostat causes the car not to turn on after it’s warmed up. I had the same problem and also fixed it. Honestly you probably have compounding issues that need to be resolved before the car is driving fine again. You’ll have to check spark plugs too if you have power dips or hesitation. Get yourself a OBD2 scan tool and read the codes.
Ariel Vasquez no I mean it starts up fine when hot but this was just very random where I would put my foot down to go and it’s like the breaks were on. Like no power. Then I would get driving with no power till it got up to 2500rpm then bam the power comes back. I can crawl about n the powers still there. It was only when I stopped in traffic then set off it would do it all over again. I have a ob2 reader and no codes or lights ever come up. Peddle test shows nothing either. The hesitation was happening when I put my foot down n get the rpm up to over 4000rmp it would hesitate on n off like the breaks were being pressed. Changed spark plugs too as thought it was that. All plugs looked perfect when pulled. It hasn’t done that since removing the solenoids and removing the filters and cleaning the solenoids. Runs like a different car. Power in every gear. No need for sports button anymore. It runs and pulls like a 1.8 Sri now. It’s never ran like this since I bought it. Always was sluggish. Thought it was normal as it’s a zafira b n they big heavy things. It only played up if I had a car full with 7 people. Pulled like shit. Had to have sports mode on to get any speed up. Now I don’t touch sports mode. It pulls up hills like nobody is in it in 4th gear. She’s full of power at the minute. It’s only been bout a week since i cleaned solenoids though. Definitely notice the power difference and the major difference is fuel economy. I’m using next to nothing now compared to before
Is there always 2 solenoids???