This is getting EASY - Building Doors like Legos
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- Опубликовано: 25 дек 2024
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I found your channel a little over a year and half ago, right before we decided to do a DIY renovation of our home. Back then I didn't have any appreciable building skills at all. All I had was the desire and the willingness to learn. We litterly took every room down to the subfloor and studs! I learned how to hand drywall from "renovision" a channel based in Canada. But I learned everything I needed to make my trim from you! Most importantly you gave me the self asteem to actually be able to do it! Before I watched your videos I never thought I would be able to do any trim to your standards! Our trim looks amazing and we get so many compliments from friends and family who can't believe I did it! Lol! I have installed crown molding throughout and Wainscoting on our dining room walls and hallways. I went against the grain and stayed away from cheap big store baseboards and installed 1x6 boards with trim accents and it looks really high end and it was actually cheaper than the crappy baseboards the big box store sell. We still have along way to go with our renovation but you have given me the confidence that there isn't anything I can't do as long as I'm willing to research it and just do it!! I just wanted to thank you so much for all your teachings ,videos and most importantly being a good guy! You tube is full of egotistical jerks that are obviously only in it to make a buck and to satiate their fragile ego's but you've remained humble thru it all! I've enjoyed watching your company and channel grow and seeing you obtaining your well deserved rewards for all your hard work! Your proof the American dream is still alive and obtainable! Thanks again!
SO inspiring! Thanks for sharing that! I'm glad I can help you out!
This is absolutely right! Your Chanel ist so inspiring to do something yourself in professional quality as long as you have the willingness to do it. Greetings from Germany.
Completed my first ship lap accent wall today. Customer was ecstatic when she saw it. I owe you a beer man, you have taught me so much. Thank you for all the content, it has truly changed my life.
Shout out to whomever does your videography. Beautiful work, as always!
Thanks so much. His name is Jon and hes been with me since day one!
Richard- may I suggest that you place a couple of shallow kerfs (
Any video that shows what you're talking about?
@@RikoRey92 if you look at store bought joinery dowels you can see they have grooves in them which achieve the same pressure relief
good tip. like a fluted dowel.
Wow, that cool music made this video a fantastic journey to carpenter Narnia.
Hey rule of thumb. Make the tenon 1/3 the thickness of the material. If you make them to big, you may run into problems with expansion and contraction. Some times they will expand big enough that it will crack the wood. Especially the panels. But great work my friend looks good and good luck. Keep having fun.
When you hang the door bevel both edges 2degrees , the leading edge give a nice margin -door edge s 3/16 smaller than openings
Finish the panels before you install them. Otherwise when the Fort worth summer comes there will be gaps in the edges.
Had to unfortunately sue a millworks company over this issue.
Great tip, I even let it dry fully because it might stick even though it's not tacky to the touch.
Very good tip for solid wood doors. I don't think the panels are solid though. I would have used plywood, I'm guessing he did too.
@@luciflash you can see him cutting the panels in the video. Definitely solid wood.
Great to see your abilities grow, a few friendly tips. Domino Jointer, tenon thickness = 1/3 thickness of material, relief cuts in tenon for expansion, glue up one side at a time, space balls for panel expansion, leave top bottom rails and both stiles slightly long in order to trim door to final dimension after glue is dry. Also stave core is a better option than solid. Keep up the good work! 👍🏼
When you are doing a big project glue-up with lots of Dominos or large loose tenons consider using a slow setting epoxy adhesive. Regular wood glue has so much moisture in it that the wood swells, making the final assembly much harder to do as compared to the dry-fit process. The epoxy has no moisture so no wood swelling, and actually acts as a lubricant making the assembly easier to do as compared to the dry fit.
Agreed, I use PC-7. Great stuff, plenty of time to assemble
You may have wanted to install Spaceballs in your panel groves to to compensate for the wood expanding and/or contraction, that might lead to cracking or rattling down the road.
Go to the dark side, domino xl ,will be a time saver. Wonderful work as usual rich
Nice work. You can try using oxalic acid to remove stains from the wood if you can't sand them out. This works well on old furniture as well.
It's pretty cool that you started building doors. I work for a state historic preservation department. I was tasked with building a raised panel door. I used a cut and cope bit set on my shaper. I had no faith in the 3/8" tenon that was left, so my buddy that works in the sign shop suggested his domino. I used it and made my own dominos as big as I could. It all went well. We'll see how it holds up though. Love the channel and thank you for all the tips.
Hi Richard.
Although you have some very good tools, the most important tool a woodworker can have is is one that no amount of money can buy.
It is patience, and you my friend have tons of it.
Dude, I love the series. It's awesome to see a skilled Carpenter go through the process of learning something new. And then figuring out all the tips and tricks to make it easier.
When all of this is done it would be awesome for you to put together a video of what you learned and why you made changes that you did.
I purchased a domino a couple of years ago, it’s so quick and versatile I wouldn’t be without it. Worth every penny
So I'm in the DFW area. I have a hollow core door between my garage and house and there wasn't a word said during my pre-sale inspection about that.
The fire rating of the door is because the room is intended as place to park vehicles. He doesn't really need it if it is being used as a wood shop. But, keep the door for when you sell the house so you can put it back on to meet standards. Love watching your video's.
Thank you. Be blessed !
you can also reduce warping over time if you make the stiles and rails from 2 pieces laminated together lengthwise. If I have thick stock I will split them down the middle, flip them and laminate them back together to counter balance the stresses in the wood. Otherwise I'll buy thinner boards, laminate them together and mill them down to the thickness I need. It makes for a much more stable door.
Interesting, do you mean you'd resaw the boards and then glue em back together on the opposing sides? That way as the wood expands and contracts each half is pulling the other side and canceling out the movement?
I wedge the tenon on one side. Sometimes it needs a trim but more piece of mind over a full floating tenon.
In the UK we use intumescent strips let into a shallow rebate in the door edge (all edges) and and intumescent finish on the garage side of the door.
Beautiful! I would love to have that solid wood door like that in my home .
The fire rated garage door requirement is interesting since most 1-1/2 or 2 story homes have living areas directly above the garage and share at least one wall (mine shares 2) with the living area. I really doubt that the 8’ steel with almost full-length double-pane glass panels is fire rated.
Instead of the domino you could get a pantorouter or the mortising attachment for your SMC. Also might be worth investing in the right shaper profiles if you plan to make that many doors
BTW I absolutely love the door design 👍👍👍. I need to build a couple barn doors of this design. 1”3/8 or 1”3/4. How do you keep doors from warping ? Spanish cedar and Mahogany or some other plywood panels would be great.
Excelente work! If you use the 700 XL Festool it would only take you about 15-20 minutes to put it together! But if you like to experiment on making your own tenons that’s a different story! Big fan
this is what I plan on doing but that tool is.....out of most peoples reach, financially.
Thanks for the video on your process, Richard. One quick question: who is teaching you how to construct this door or where are you getting the right info on how to build it for the first time? For instance, why are you using hardwood panels instead of ply etc. mind sharing? Any good books or channels to look into this?
You know that you can fire-proof that custom door too, right? There is a special coating (my guess, it comes in clear as well) that you can apply on it and obtain the same 20 min fire-resistant rating. Just dig on that info.
It'd be interesting to see what happens under certain circumstances, wonder if the wood inside is like and oven and the treatment becomes combustible? 🤔
Messing with fire ratings means you need your product tested and facility it’s built in looked at. At least in my state that’s the ropes.
@@stairmasternem depends. If there is a coating that is approved by the underwriters lab to be a 20 min rating and used per their directions, it complies with the building code. That assumes the jurisdiction hasn’t adopted something more strict or the code official hasn’t asked for more.
Yes, it comes in clear…
The one I saw used was a clear satin finish
@@locke3141 I wonder how an inspector handles that. I know fire rated stuff is marked so an inspector can check it. I don't know if I can say, look, I coated in this stuff, trust me.
My guy I highly recommend you to make a trip to Japan, a lot of wood workers have a talent that just isn’t common in America.
If you're going to do a lot of interiors in the house then buy the domino. The interior door will be narrower than the 1-3/4 exterior doors so you'll be forced into smaller floating tenons anyway and the process will go a lot faster. Have you considered using bolection molding to hold the panels in rather than setting them in grooves in the door? That would have been my go-to for the exterior doors -- especially in I wanted any of the panels to be glass. Nice video, thanks for sharing.
The precision in your work is so inspiring. Thank you for sharing!
Heck yes another video
Yes I do so leave me the f*ck alone
I have no idea what the building regs require in the States and I guess, more specifically - Texas, but here in Australia a fire rated door assembly also includes the door frame and a standard door frame does not comply. Obviously the wall where the opening occurs also needs to be fire rated. Strangely enough, a fire separation is no longer required between a garage and the living areas of a home here but that hasn't always been the case.
Beautiful, stunning doors. The type that will be loved for generations.
I really enjoy your videos. I have learned a lot while I am still no professional my remodel of my house looks almost like a professional did it.
Richard, nice door, love the contrast in materials. Those screws you used appear to be brass (as evidenced by how the aging solution worked on them) and seemed a bit short for hinge screws. Brass is not as strong as steel so I would suggest putting one 3 1/2 inch construction screw in each hinge plate attached to the door jamb. Now, get cracking on those other doors, can’t wait to see them in the house. 👍🏻
Do you think you could install glass panels with the floating tenons l? Have you had much movement sense you've installed them?
Just a thought the timber for the tenons should be grooved to allow for the glue to retract out of the mortice 😮
The Domino will not solve every single problem on earth but it will make a huge difference to the time you spend on mortise and tenon joints. I have had mine for about 6 or 7 years now and I still smile every time I use it. You have to do some accurate marking but when you can cut a perfect mortice in a few second you are still going to save tons of time. Besides, you can put as many floating tenons in as you like to suit the specific joint, placing e.g. four in a row, offset, or in pairs of two. Festool also offers all sorts of additional mechanical hardware to fit the Domino allowing for joints to be taken apart (for e.g. bed frames) and tightened back up again, aligning and tightening up e.g. two worktops, and many other applications.
I can't put a dado blade in my table saw. I liked that you used the router table instead. What bit did you use?
I can do some killer stuff with a Jessem dowel jig, 1/4 3/8 and 1/2 inch. I almost bought a domino that does large tenons but dowels can be stronger. I could put 6 dowels at the end of a stile for increased glue surface area , Three half inch dowels in one set up would sufice. Maybe six on teh bottom rail.
Looking good, glad to see the assembly table upgrade from Sheetrock to plywood! :)
This guy is awesome and has incredible skills
Is the combination workstation something you would recommend? Or is it better to buy individual pieces?
I’d go with the stop dado on styles then make mortises then fit your tenons a little smaller. Dominos would be quicker but I love the larger tenons once set up for them. 🤔🤷♂️ maybe even with face dowels slightly offset to pull joints together. Like the old days. I don’t think they even used glue. Anywhere. Definitely would work for hanging barn doors. I think
Why does that look so GOOD!!!
Usually the bootom rail is wider to act as the main shear support but with alll those rails it works.
Beautiful door and awesome info on the brass ager!
Love your door . Would like to know what size bit did you use inthe router table to cut the groove that the panels set in
The only channel I watch religiously.. Why? Because you're always in a good mood.. Always happy go lucky.. Blessed.
don't need a fire rated door between garage and house here. Just needs to be exterior grade/sealed so car exhaust can't seep into the house
Great to watch you experiment and learn! If you wanted to and it still might save you some time, you could use a Domino XL but plunge twice with overlapping mortises to make a wide mortise, then continue to make your own custom width tenons. Also if you want some more stability to prevent rocking when using the router to plunge the mortises manually, you can use one or two side fences/guides.
Is this method saving time over simply cutting the tenon on the table saw? It probably saves a little material, but seems like it’s not saving time (unless it’s a two man job occurring simultaneously) or increasing strength.
Great work! Can you please tell what are these router bits? Thanks!
What router table set up is that? (Stand etc) I have the Bosch portable table but that table and fence seems way more practical like a table saw
thats an awesome shaker door! i think thats awesome youre building them yourself
looks great Richard !!
Love the amount of content lately! But I'm mostly waiting for a John voice reveal lol
Ok really good job well done you as always 🇬🇧😜
Love your humor also great content
Domino is the way to go! Absolutely worth the money.
Glue up one side at at time. Dry assemble the other side to make sure its square to the frame and use it as a clamping edge.
If you get the domino it REQUIRES a vacuum to remove the dust while working. A buddy of mine did not use a vacuum and almost burnt it out before figuring out what he was doing wrong. BTW the domino has earned back its purchase price many many times over. Can’t speak highly enough about it. Don’t wait.
So there are a couple of things to consider. If the wood is soft to medium hard the adhesives we use now are actually stronger than the wood itself, the wood will fail before the adhesive. So maximizing your floating tenon size is not a good idea. The harder the wood the more you'll see a benefit in strength from a larger tenon. You can also increase the strength of the joint by using a tenon made from a harder wood. I like two or three long hardwood dominos no more than 1/3 the material thickness for doors. If the wood is really hard and you're going with a floating tenon joint then I would pin the tenons instead of making them wider and thicker. Hopefully this makes sense.
Go with the Domino XL and get the Seneca Woodworking bits for the smaller size that way your covered for any size project. That's what I did and was very happy.
When I sprung for a Domino, all the time I'm thinking "Why am I spending a thousand bucks on this tool?? I'm just an amateur DIYer, I don't do this stuff for a living!! How do I justify spending a thousand bucks??" But floating tenons are so easy and quick with a Domino. Buy once, cry once as the expression goes.
Looks like his method of making the monster mortise was quite efficient--just used one fence and no jig. For smaller pieces, I love my Domino, but I think his method was the right one here.
When it comes to square fits. I like to use 1/2 dowels about 5 inches long
hardest part was probably routing the mortise and dialing in the fit of the tenons. nice fine woodworking
Do you think that bottoming those tenons out will cause some expansion issues? I was taught they should have some float in the mortise.
Tenons don't expend length wise. The expand across the grain.
Just go ahead and do the festool domino xl. I bought one a couple of years ago and it is fantastic for making doors. You won’t regret it once you do it.
Yep, i second that.
You could get a shaper set for door stile and rails. Makes it a little easier for production work.
You’ve inspired me, thanks Richard!
Long live Vince!
You inspire us all Vince!
Would you be interested in doing a video on building an exterior door slab with glass or sharing some content that would help fill in this gap? Really would love to create a craftsman / shaker style 3/4 lite 4 panel glass door but have yet to find content that would set me up for success. All the doors in store have an ugly routed trim, just can’t find what I want.
Well I did see you had some additional content on exterior door you made. I’ll dig deeper into those videos!
Awesome work man.
Did you freehand (with router) those mortises? I didn't see a guide / attachment on the router. That's pretty amazing.
2:38 “one thing I’ve noticed, I not had a single consideration for any health and safety, safe systems of work, or PPE, at any point so far…”
Shades are swag
look awesome!
I normally make the groves 'before' I assemble, and though I haven't done it yet maybe make through tenons for the added visual effect. However, since square tenons/mortise looks more handcrafted, I guess I stick to my mortiser and chisels ... so in the long run - no domino for me.
I really like your Style buddy
Mr. Richard, there used to be an antique fixture dealer going toward Benbrook. It's been a few years since I been to the DFW area but if you go like you are going to Grandbury due west, it's alittle past the wafflehouse on the right. Looks like it used to be an old barn or the like... It's been 20 something years so I doubt it's still there buts it worth a shot.
Interesting video! Can you make a video on double closet door installation?
Putting groves in the tenons help with glue up.
Awesome! watch your fingers on the router table I watched a buddy of mine lose part of his finger on a jointer once I can still hear the cutting sound of his finger
How heavy are these doors? Will they take special hinges?
the finish is technically called Bright Brass. to keep it that color longer hit it with some clear satin acrylic spray.
Reminds me of David Marks building a door on Woodworks. 👍
I should have also said the doors are looking awesome!! Get a domino, you won't regret it.
Love the ending,just not gonna reveal the closed door just yet 👍 if I was doing alot of doors then I would be investing in domino XL, although I would imagine for your wainscoting and panelling and general day job the regular domino would be well worth it, that would make it pricey though,love the door
Wow not only do you make quality videos you're using dayglow as background music?? Damn I love this channel
I was looking forward to you getting the festool domino. Great work as always anyway lol
Love the door building! I got rid of my router table and door panel router sets. Just be careful with the white oak and mahogany. I developed an allergy to them by not wearing gloves.
I know you had a bout with a Festool miter saw not so long ago but the Domino is a great tool. I recently purchased the df500q and the kit with the bits/dominos, in total it ran me about $1500 but a few projects in I can tell you it was well worth it. I wasn't a Festool guy what so ever and in fact this was my first Festool tool. If you plan on doing more woodworking I would suggest you take the plunge. The doors turned out great btw.
How do you prevent the stiles from warping or twisting when using material like this ? I’ve had problems with the doors warping or twisting. I started gluing two pieces of 3/4 together to try to stabilize.
It's not easy. Proper storage techniques, letting the wood climatize. Climate control/dehumidifying helps, being very picky with the wood you choose also helps. I once had a client so concerned with it once that we kiln dried every piece of material in the project. Use a moisture meter. Seal the door properly, especially the ends. There's lots of little things, but generally speaking, it all boils down to moisture in the material.
just curious but don't most fire rated doors have to have a threshold? from the glances of your existing door it's not there.. which means fire could jump under the door not up to firecode anyways.
What size is the router bit is it and where did you get it
I am curious to see the stain after using an orbital sander. I was taught to not use orbital on stained wood it shows the swirl marks.
If you're using an orbital and there's swirlmarks you're either not doing it right or your sander is junk.
What kind of router table is that? Looks nice and portable.
is that an electrical sander o pneumatic?
I’m looking for a good palm sander with dust collection. What brand/model are you using in the video? It appears to be doing a good job in the video, but is it?
Look up surfprep.