i was surprised too...i honestly thought that such a cheap knock off will not have a heat treatment. So far the blade has not sustained any real damage
That's because the original is VG-10. It is one of the most brittle steels I have ever had in an outdoor knife. The lamination solves the blade breakage problem, but not the edge and tip chipping. It is equally brittle in both Fallkniven and Spyderco knives, unfortunately.
Wicked. You really can't beat the abuse it took and still kept up its ability to perform. For that price...admirable!! Enjoyed this one! Be well buddy Craig
I was in 2 minds about purchasing one of these from Aliexpress, I have now ordered one as it's still half the price of a Mora here in NZ & ideal as a beater for fishing & hunting that I won't cry over when it falls overboard. Keep up the good work I really enjoy your videos & hearing your opinions
Morals aside for a minute. My biggest concern about buying a clone like this would be that the one I receive would be a total dud. You basically proved that the knife you have is a decent knife.. Super cool test. I was a bit afraid that the knife would jump up and get you when you were playing golf with it though. Totally agree with your final thoughts too. If this $11 knife can pass the test. The expensive name brands should. So in a way, these clones do the consumer a favor by reminding the expensive name brands to be on their toes and keep the quality up.. Awesome video my friend!
I did not want to promote people buying clones in any way. I think that instead of buying an 11$ clone you are better off buying a Mora. That being said...yes...it held up great! It should be a reminder to big knive companies that steel should outlive wood, in a fair fight :) I still have the blade and consider wrapping the handle in paracord and seing what it can do, but I keep going back to the original thought I had: I do not want to promote such clones. Thank you! :)
I wish someone would post a link to buy the fake one, since there are so many who have bought them in order to make a video about them. I don't have a YT channel and don't do reviews, but the seller, though they are unnecessarily placing F1 markings, made a knife that will withstand a great deal and have successfully coaxed YT reviewers into giving up their money for their fake copies. Since that knife took it on the chin and kept on going, your review only encouraged (rather than discouraged) curiosity and the desire for others to buy them.
Took a lot of abuse, worth keeping around for just that sort of thing so the $11 will be worth it. I used to think batoning was not good for my knife, but then it's a Mora Black and I want to keep it. Once I received an inexpensive knife, I went to town batoning and love it. Batoning is easier than an axe to chop/split branches for the Bushbox stove, works great. Once the handle breaks off you have a blade to make a new knife handle with, if it's still going, lol.
I find batoning more controlable than splitting with an axe or small hatchet. And if this knife could take it...so should other, more expensive knives. This one will probably get a paracord handle and I will keep trying to danage it, short of putting it in a vise...
Good points. I agree the knife is definitely more controlled with batoning. And using small Bushbox type wood burning stoves it's really needed if one wants to add larger split branches. It's also less frustration with a knife than a hatchet, at least for me, too little patience maybe:). I think my Mora Black could take a lot of batoning although I like to use the back of the blade for flint and steel practice which pretty much eliminates batoning. The issue for me is also about saving my expensive knife and wearing out the inexpensive one, simply because money is getting tight and one has to learn to make do/conserve when & wherever possible. Hope you keep us up to date on how your knife is holding up to the damaging, cheers.
Good to see one bite the dust. Like I mentioned in your previous video, I was sold a fake and received a refund. Thinking back on it I should have put it through the paces as you did, then returned it. Look forward to your next video.
that is the real shame...i mean if someone makes them and sells them for 11$ it's clear that they are not real...i would like something like this if they would make it and call it "Survival Extreme Knife" Then it would be clear that it is not the F1. And at 11$ you could only be pleasently surprised by it
*some of it...but not most of it. If you notch it then maybe all of it... This was a destruction test. Like any test of a knife...it is meant to stress the knife more than you would in a real scenario. Tha handle on the real F1 would probably end up the same if i had done this to that knife
@@SpartanJohns It was my notifications that was "off" on your channel. It's like a RUclips virus or something, because I found it does that to many other channels, that I had the notifications "On" but found the "off" . If I'm not mistaken, they call them "Spybots" ? I'm not sure, but it happens to other people too.
maybe it's the "bell"...i also had that...when they introduced that feature you had to go to all the channels you were following and click the "bell" in order to get notifications...
For $11. the counterfeit looks pretty decent. Edge holds up, mostly. Not fair to compare the handles since you abused the heck out of the copy. Often the originals, whether they are knives or watches or women's handbags are over-priced. Copies are designed to address that problem. Free market is a weird place.
i have thought about sharpening it and seeing if it holds an edge. cause if it does.... I am planning a KNV2/F1 test... but I think that the knives are so differente it would be like comparing lemons and oranges...
SpartanJohns Some of these in the $20 range are listed as 8cr13MoV or 440C. The first should sharpen fairly easy and should hold up an edge fairly well as a wide convex. The second is likely too brittle for heavy use and chopping but should have great edge retention with normal use. That is assuming the product description is accurate and that they've done a decent job with the heat treatment.
interesting good test -I ended up getting a Jaktkit KNV2 knife similar to F1 but a really comfortable handle and a real nice Kydex sheath similar price here in Australia,thanks for test.
Ernie Turner Jaktkit doesnt make knives Jaktkit is a very small time swedish webshop that most of us (swedes that is) never heard about. They rebrand cheap chinese stuff with thier own logo. If you like the knife, thats fine but you should know what you pay for. It goes without saying a small time web shop did not invent thier own super steel despite such claims. In fact they're knives have been in for metallurgic analysis in the past and neither the steel or the temper was right. If anything this video goes to show that the format is a huge part how a knife works and we all know where jaktkit got the format from. But at the end of the day, if you got a good knife thats what matters. Personally I dont like Fällkniven as a company (I like the products) because they are rude and suffer from major hybris. Clone on!
I just got my KNV2 back from a friend. It was with him for about 5 months. He is also a hunter, much more active than me..so I asked him to use the knife for what it was intended: wild boar! He told me that it did a great job. Not a knife for fine tasks but when it came to processing wild boar it did that very well. The I have not tested the steel of the KNV's but they do hold an edge and they do not microchip. The handle is that od the F1 but the blade is not... I like the F1 ...but if i would have to choose between the KNV2, KNV3 and the F1, not thinking of the price I would choose the KNV2. Bigger handle, better grip, bigger blade, better sheath. I never really looked much into Jaktkit as a company.... Thanks for the point you brought up
the knv2 is bigger and set up for more difficult tasks. it comes with a very steep edge. i thought about reducing it but in the end decided to keep it as is. so far i have no complaints about the knv2 thanks
John: I noticed the harmonics on the China knife really stung your hand pretty good. Is there any difference good or bad with a real F-1? I have found over the years a small difference in how the handle is made can translate to a large difference in handling. Those harmonics are also why many knives such as Leuuko's are rat tailed tangs at least one reason. The big Leuuku's when chopping don't transmit shock near as bad because the tang cancels it out
Hi Bruce! It stung alright! Not sure if the real F1 would have behaved the same with that particular piece of wood. What I can say about the knock-off's handle...it is made from very cheap rubber... I always found that heavier knives trasmit le shock to the hand...more metal there to dissipate it and they tent to go thru the wood much better. I never had a big Leuku knife. They seem like they can do lots of things but somehow I could never imagine myself using one. I preffer the big heavy prybars...such as the ESEE 5...but truth be told: that one is not the most gentle knife on your hand when it come to batoning it thru very hard woods
Pretty Tough, but I have been watching you doing harder Abuse to Your Knifes. (Remember this twistet Root/Stump Piece in the last Esee Vid) I´m not sure if this Flat ground 8cr13 Knife wouldn´t have a Wave in the Edge after that. Why I wouldn´t expect a 150$ Knife to take the same Abuse as this one? Hmm, depends. A Laminated Steel Blade would loose the Tip if I whack it out of a Tree I poked it into. Thats not a Fail, thats logic. This Video remindet me of my youth. We did things like this to uor Knifes periodly. :) ...but we only had cheapo Knifes. Even If I always say it´s not nessesary to use a Knife like this and I´m not doing it usually, I think every Knife Enthusiast should have damaged a few knifes. Thats the only way to learn what a Knife can take and what not. Ususlly I don´t watch Knife tests. But your conclusions are always realistic and so It´s fun watching you beating the Crap out of your tools. If I´d search for a extremly sturdy Knife, I´d ask you I think. If a Knife survives your Tests, It´s way more than toug enough for me. :) But: please don´t let the raped Knife lay around and waste. It´s still a Knife. I´d give It a new Handle and a new Life. A Knife has to be used. It´s not the Knifes fault that some fraud printed a fake Logo on it. :) I understand why you don´t want to spend Time on a cheapo fake. But Hey, you lost, the Knife won. It didn´t break or bend. Doesn´t it earn a second Life after that? ^^ Best Regards, BB
to be perfectly honest I was expecting the knife to bend. I thought that it was not even heat treated. I could not test it as hard as I wanted because of the handle. it started flaking off giving me no place to get a decent grip. But with a paracord handle...i think it could be done. I am not hating on the knife...it sits there and is awaiting its turn to get sharpened. my question is: if this 11$ knock-off can take this kind of abuse, why do people say: you should not baton a knife. and in most cases people get 50-150 $ knives... maybe not soon but this knife will make another appearence on video
SpartanJohns Denis, A bend then break is a good indication of a good tempering, that's how blades should be. A blade that snap's usually indicative of a bad temp job.,,.
Ob ein Messer zum Batonen da ist und es aushalten muss, ist immer noch Sache des Besitzers. Wer auf Batoning wert legt, wird sich die entsprechenden Messer kaufen. Bei mir ist Batonig z.B. kein Kriterium. Ich bekomme dafür eben woanders bessere Performance, muss aber halt aufpassen wenn ich tatsächlich mal Batonen muss o.Ä.. Wenn ein Messer beim Batonen kaputt geht, kann das 2 Gründe haben. 1 Der User war zu doof und hat sich ein zu schwaches Messer gekauft, oder 2. Der User wurde beschissen weil er Mangelware gekauft hat oder falschen Versprechungen aufgesessen ist. Ich Habe auch Schraubenzieher zum in Die Wand klopfen. Mit denen fixiere ich Provisorien(wie ein Maurer seine Schnur). Natürlich könnte ich mir dafür megaharte Superduper Schraubenzieher kaufen die das Abkönnen "müssen". Oder ich kauf halt welch beim Rewe weil´s mir egal ist ob die nach 2x in die Wand Klopfen noch ne Schraube drehen können. Doof bin ich nur wenn ich jetzt nen 400€ Akkuschrauber in die Wand Prügele und dann sage der müsste ja wohl mehr können als ein Billiger Schraubendreher. Ich denke ob ein Messer zum Batonen geeignet ist, hat mit dem Preis garnix zu tun. Und Batoning ist halt auch nicht Batoning. Manche Hölzer die Auf YT gespalten werden, würde ich nicht mal mit der Axt versuchen. Ich nutze Batoning eigentlich nur für feinere Schnitzarbeiten oder Spreißel, weil die mit dem Beil einfach nerviger sind. Man hat in YT halt viele die das Batonen sooo hoch hängen. Man bekommt den Eindruch das wäre so manchem wichtiger als Schneiden. Deshalb bekommen manche wohl das Gefühl rummeckern zu müssen. Mir ist das Latte. Es muss sowieso jeder seine Erfahrungen machen. Wer noch keine Erfahrungen im ruinieren von Messern hat, ist eigentlich sowieso ein Schwätzer wenn er darüber redet was ein Messer können muss und was nicht. Ich hab mit 13 mal ein 20cm Bowie ruiniert. Ich hatte halt keine Ahnung und dachte das Teil müsste zum Hacken geeignet sein. Heute hätte ich gesehen das der Hohlschliff das nicht überlebt ohne Wellen zu Schlagen.. ;) LG BB
i have the real deal , and the clones . i have tried to bent and brake it . it is my edc . it is a pry bar and landscapers dream knife . my real f1 i am afraid t scratch it .
so i definitely have a question that I'm unsure you've been asked before. I live in the US, however would love to meet you in person one day. I have a minor disability but can't do pretty much anything, but my question is, would you ever be willing to do an overnight bushcraft camp or something of the sort with me or someone with a disability?
I live in Romania, so quite a bit of distance there :( However, in principle, I would not see a problem there. Hope you find someone to have a bushcraft outing with.
Fake or original, I don't understand why people prefer such a thick blade, in such a short knife, when everything you do with it can be also done with a Mora... 🤔
For a number of reasons. Handle, grind, steel, sheath. Moras are good but, for example, as a knife used for processing game, the f1 will do a better job not just at cutting but also prying
@@SpartanJohns That's a good point. I haven't thought about prying with a small knife, but it's a valid usage, especially when hammering and/or batoning it into wood or bone. 👍
Such knives are not meant for cutting and whittling tasks alone. A blade like the mora 510(1,5-2,0 mm) is more suited for that. A full height convex blade might so well with cutting tasks better than one would expect. But it’s primary purpose is still resisting abuse. Looking at the F1 especially you dan understand why the lamination and why Fallkniven heat treats their vg10 to a higher hardness even if the steel becomes “chippy”. I have tested this too. Better for edge retention. It develops microchips which will act like microserrations. The outer softer layers will help it resist such tasks like chopping, prying, batoning. Now i see the logic behind it. Took me a while
Chipping is still one of the worst things that can happen to a knife edge. From a health point of view it's risky to have microchips migrating into your food, especially from a steel that includes toxical elements like Nickel, Mercury, or Cobalt - which are carcinogenic (and VG-10 has a high amount of Cobalt). And you normally need to do some food prep in survival. From another perspective, chipping weakens the neighbour areas of the impact, inducing cracks and fisures around the affected area. That is why a chipped edge is always more difficult to restore by resharpening, without removing a lot more material than you would for a roll or dent. In my experience M390 beats VG-10 in all regards (including toughness and corrosion resistance) and it has aprox. 4 times the edge retention than VG-10. I think that Fallkniven continues to use VG-10, COS and the likes just because of the cost factor, because they have an advantageous contract with Takefu. I have two Fallknivens and like them so much for the craftmanship, design, and quality control, but I hate them so much because of the VG-10 steel.
Chipping is not chipping. Different steels chip in different ways. Sometimes it can be advantagious. When talking about steels with a large volume of hard carbides like s110v or maxamet these chip very different than vg10. In everyday/outdoor use i never had a steel which i could say greatly(1-4 or 1-5) outperformed another. What you are cutting is most important, then technique and geometry. Steel, imo, is last. As for coatings and steel getting into food, i don’t worry about that. Just like teflon or aluminium.
the guy....knows a few things. he's been testing knives for quite some time. as the title said this was a destuction test so rotten wood would not do a lot. BUT...hey! who knows? maybe you're more knowledgeable...
how could it be?...i mean if you are going to sell something for 11$...I am surprised it seems like it received a heat treatment. I broke off the entire plastic handle...thinking about adding a bit of paracord and seeing if it can take a bit of extra abuse..
for 11$ it is a good piece of kit. I mean: you can split wood with it and it does not break...so... However I would add 5-6 $ to that 11 and get a Mora Robust! ;)
Oh, No, I'm not going to get one. I'm happy with my A-1/H-1 set, But the only $10.00 knife that I have that's a tough one is my Hard Use knife. I might of even paid less for it, I'm just saying. Watching you drive it like a golf ball it looked impressive. I'm not in the market of getting a small knife. I just got a Cold Steel Master Hunter in 3V, I have one in the SM III also, and I just bought 4 Fox Knives the Fox Bushcraft Parang that I might use with the Master Hunter in 3V, a Fox Trapper to team with my Fox Pro Hunter and a Fox Trakker Utility Camp and Sniper Knife to team with my Fox Hitam Golok I already had, All I need is the Fox Trapper and the Fox Panabus. This will complete my Wet and Snowy Condition Knives. Oh, I also just bought the Steel Will Druid 240 and the Druid 230. I'm thinking of maybe using the Druid 230 also as a clearing sort of long knife in Spring.,,.
SpartanJohns I think you will like this one: So apparently Fällkniven screwed up when they ordered a batch of F1 old style open leather sheaths (F1oes) they made somekind of misstake and they're selling them via thier website for like €10 + shipping. Why is this inteteresting? Because its premium leather for insanely cheap and it will fit alot of other knives and possibly other tools aswell. I'm thinking Moras specificly. I'm willing to bet every single Mora with a 10ish cm blade will fit right in. Even snuggly if you wet mold it. I bought one, figured I'd use it as a Mora universal sheath. Btw, If that clone of yours has a decent blank you could give it some custom molded Sugru or wood scales. I'm sure the F1 logo will come right of.
Good info...I just checked it out! Thanks for the tip!I think that a Companion will definitely fit that sheath! I think I will get one! About the blank...a friend of mine asked me to give him the blank for him to practice making a handle...he told me that if he succeeds I can test the knife further and if it does not break he would like to have it. It will take some time but that will be the next step for it. If I need a "dirt knife" i will get a Mora Companion in SS...they cost about 15 $ and can take a lot of abuse...plus I know exactly how far I can push them should I need to.
Well....DAMN! Turns out that the cost of shipping brings me to about the ammount I could buy a Fallkniven sheath over here...Even if I buy 2 I will not save much money.... Thanks for letting me know about this..but unfortunately I can't justify the costs related to shipping...
The edge holds up better on your $11 fake than it did on my original F1! Interesting test, thank you.
i was surprised too...i honestly thought that such a cheap knock off will not have a heat treatment.
So far the blade has not sustained any real damage
That's because the original is VG-10. It is one of the most brittle steels I have ever had in an outdoor knife. The lamination solves the blade breakage problem, but not the edge and tip chipping. It is equally brittle in both Fallkniven and Spyderco knives, unfortunately.
Wicked. You really can't beat the abuse it took and still kept up its ability to perform. For that price...admirable!!
Enjoyed this one!
Be well buddy
Craig
it surprised me as well. honestly, i thought it would bendstill...i would just add 5$ and get a Robust
I was in 2 minds about purchasing one of these from Aliexpress, I have now ordered one as it's still half the price of a Mora here in NZ & ideal as a beater for fishing & hunting that I won't cry over when it falls overboard. Keep up the good work I really enjoy your videos & hearing your opinions
Morals aside for a minute. My biggest concern about buying a clone like this would be that the one I receive would be a total dud. You basically proved that the knife you have is a decent knife..
Super cool test. I was a bit afraid that the knife would jump up and get you when you were playing golf with it though.
Totally agree with your final thoughts too. If this $11 knife can pass the test. The expensive name brands should. So in a way, these clones do the consumer a favor by reminding the expensive name brands to be on their toes and keep the quality up..
Awesome video my friend!
I did not want to promote people buying clones in any way. I think that instead of buying an 11$ clone you are better off buying a Mora.
That being said...yes...it held up great! It should be a reminder to big knive companies that steel should outlive wood, in a fair fight :)
I still have the blade and consider wrapping the handle in paracord and seing what it can do, but I keep going back to the original thought I had: I do not want to promote such clones.
Thank you! :)
I wish someone would post a link to buy the fake one, since there are so many who have bought them in order to make a video about them. I don't have a YT channel and don't do reviews, but the seller, though they are unnecessarily placing F1 markings, made a knife that will withstand a great deal and have successfully coaxed YT reviewers into giving up their money for their fake copies. Since that knife took it on the chin and kept on going, your review only encouraged (rather than discouraged) curiosity and the desire for others to buy them.
Worth 'Like' 👍
Took a lot of abuse, worth keeping around for just that sort of thing so the $11 will be worth it. I used to think batoning was not good for my knife, but then it's a Mora Black and I want to keep it. Once I received an inexpensive knife, I went to town batoning and love it. Batoning is easier than an axe to chop/split branches for the Bushbox stove, works great.
Once the handle breaks off you have a blade to make a new knife handle with, if it's still going, lol.
I find batoning more controlable than splitting with an axe or small hatchet. And if this knife could take it...so should other, more expensive knives. This one will probably get a paracord handle and I will keep trying to danage it, short of putting it in a vise...
Good points. I agree the knife is definitely more controlled with batoning. And using small Bushbox type wood burning stoves it's really needed if one wants to add larger split branches. It's also less frustration with a knife than a hatchet, at least for me, too little patience maybe:). I think my Mora Black could take a lot of batoning although I like to use the back of the blade for flint and steel practice which pretty much eliminates batoning. The issue for me is also about saving my expensive knife and wearing out the inexpensive one, simply because money is getting tight and one has to learn to make do/conserve when & wherever possible. Hope you keep us up to date on how your knife is holding up to the damaging, cheers.
Good to see one bite the dust. Like I mentioned in your previous video, I was sold a fake and received a refund. Thinking back on it I should have put it through the paces as you did, then returned it.
Look forward to your next video.
that is the real shame...i mean if someone makes them and sells them for 11$ it's clear that they are not real...i would like something like this if they would make it and call it "Survival Extreme Knife"
Then it would be clear that it is not the F1. And at 11$ you could only be pleasently surprised by it
I could break most of that wood with a decent pair of boots
*some of it...but not most of it. If you notch it then maybe all of it...
This was a destruction test. Like any test of a knife...it is meant to stress the knife more than you would in a real scenario. Tha handle on the real F1 would probably end up the same if i had done this to that knife
Great video bro !
Love my F 1
I really miss your knife videos!!!
not sure why....because lately I have been posting much more often. and it's mainly knife or knife related subjects
@@SpartanJohns It was my notifications that was "off" on your channel. It's like a RUclips virus or something, because I found it does that to many other channels, that I had the notifications "On" but found the "off" . If I'm not mistaken, they call them "Spybots" ? I'm not sure, but it happens to other people too.
maybe it's the "bell"...i also had that...when they introduced that feature you had to go to all the channels you were following and click the "bell" in order to get notifications...
I must have missed it: What knife was this? Thanks for posting! NVM, finally got to the part about it being fake.
Fallkniven F1 Clone
For $11. the counterfeit looks pretty decent. Edge holds up, mostly. Not fair to compare the handles since you abused the heck out of the copy. Often the originals, whether they are knives or watches or women's handbags are over-priced. Copies are designed to address that problem. Free market is a weird place.
The downsides to a clone like this are the materials and the fact that some people sell them as originals.
Wow. $11 is good! I just paid 500 for a fallkniven.
it's a clone so...it is worth about half that
I saw these the other day kind of funny. I'm sure they will show up rebranded with a jaktkit-logo in a near future :P
i have thought about sharpening it and seeing if it holds an edge. cause if it does....
I am planning a KNV2/F1 test... but I think that the knives are so differente it would be like comparing lemons and oranges...
SpartanJohns Some of these in the $20 range are listed as 8cr13MoV or 440C. The first should sharpen fairly easy and should hold up an edge fairly well as a wide convex. The second is likely too brittle for heavy use and chopping but should have great edge retention with normal use. That is assuming the product description is accurate and that they've done a decent job with the heat treatment.
interesting good test -I ended up getting a Jaktkit KNV2 knife similar to F1 but a really comfortable handle and a real nice Kydex sheath similar price here in Australia,thanks for test.
Ernie Turner Jaktkit doesnt make knives Jaktkit is a very small time swedish webshop that most of us (swedes that is) never heard about. They rebrand cheap chinese stuff with thier own logo. If you like the knife, thats fine but you should know what you pay for. It goes without saying a small time web shop did not invent thier own super steel despite such claims. In fact they're knives have been in for metallurgic analysis in the past and neither the steel or the temper was right. If anything this video goes to show that the format is a huge part how a knife works and we all know where jaktkit got the format from. But at the end of the day, if you got a good knife thats what matters. Personally I dont like Fällkniven as a company (I like the products) because they are rude and suffer from major hybris. Clone on!
I just got my KNV2 back from a friend. It was with him for about 5 months. He is also a hunter, much more active than me..so I asked him to use the knife for what it was intended: wild boar!
He told me that it did a great job. Not a knife for fine tasks but when it came to processing wild boar it did that very well.
The I have not tested the steel of the KNV's but they do hold an edge and they do not microchip. The handle is that od the F1 but the blade is not...
I like the F1 ...but if i would have to choose between the KNV2, KNV3 and the F1, not thinking of the price I would choose the KNV2. Bigger handle, better grip, bigger blade, better sheath.
I never really looked much into Jaktkit as a company....
Thanks for the point you brought up
the knv2 is bigger and set up for more difficult tasks. it comes with a very steep edge. i thought about reducing it but in the end decided to keep it as is. so far i have no complaints about the knv2
thanks
John: I noticed the harmonics on the China knife really stung your hand pretty good. Is there any difference good or bad with a real F-1? I have found over the years a small difference in how the handle is made can translate to a large difference in handling. Those harmonics are also why many knives such as Leuuko's are rat tailed tangs at least one reason. The big Leuuku's when chopping don't transmit shock near as bad because the tang cancels it out
Hi Bruce!
It stung alright! Not sure if the real F1 would have behaved the same with that particular piece of wood.
What I can say about the knock-off's handle...it is made from very cheap rubber...
I always found that heavier knives trasmit le shock to the hand...more metal there to dissipate it and they tent to go thru the wood much better.
I never had a big Leuku knife. They seem like they can do lots of things but somehow I could never imagine myself using one. I preffer the big heavy prybars...such as the ESEE 5...but truth be told: that one is not the most gentle knife on your hand when it come to batoning it thru very hard woods
Pretty Tough, but I have been watching you doing harder Abuse to Your Knifes. (Remember this twistet Root/Stump Piece in the last Esee Vid) I´m not sure if this Flat ground 8cr13 Knife wouldn´t have a Wave in the Edge after that.
Why I wouldn´t expect a 150$ Knife to take the same Abuse as this one? Hmm, depends. A Laminated Steel Blade would loose the Tip if I whack it out of a Tree I poked it into. Thats not a Fail, thats logic.
This Video remindet me of my youth. We did things like this to uor Knifes periodly. :)
...but we only had cheapo Knifes.
Even If I always say it´s not nessesary to use a Knife like this and I´m not doing it usually, I think every Knife Enthusiast should have damaged a few knifes. Thats the only way to learn what a Knife can take and what not.
Ususlly I don´t watch Knife tests. But your conclusions are always realistic and so It´s fun watching you beating the Crap out of your tools. If I´d search for a extremly sturdy Knife, I´d ask you I think. If a Knife survives your Tests, It´s way more than toug enough for me. :)
But: please don´t let the raped Knife lay around and waste. It´s still a Knife. I´d give It a new Handle and a new Life.
A Knife has to be used. It´s not the Knifes fault that some fraud printed a fake Logo on it. :)
I understand why you don´t want to spend Time on a cheapo fake.
But Hey, you lost, the Knife won. It didn´t break or bend. Doesn´t it earn a second Life after that? ^^
Best Regards, BB
to be perfectly honest I was expecting the knife to bend. I thought that it was not even heat treated.
I could not test it as hard as I wanted because of the handle. it started flaking off giving me no place to get a decent grip. But with a paracord handle...i think it could be done.
I am not hating on the knife...it sits there and is awaiting its turn to get sharpened.
my question is: if this 11$ knock-off can take this kind of abuse, why do people say: you should not baton a knife. and in most cases people get 50-150 $ knives...
maybe not soon but this knife will make another appearence on video
SpartanJohns Denis, A bend then break is a good indication of a good tempering, that's how blades should be. A blade that snap's usually indicative of a bad temp job.,,.
Ob ein Messer zum Batonen da ist und es aushalten muss, ist immer noch Sache des Besitzers. Wer auf Batoning wert legt, wird sich die entsprechenden Messer kaufen. Bei mir ist Batonig z.B. kein Kriterium. Ich bekomme dafür eben woanders bessere Performance, muss aber halt aufpassen wenn ich tatsächlich mal Batonen muss o.Ä.. Wenn ein Messer beim Batonen kaputt geht, kann das 2 Gründe haben. 1 Der User war zu doof und hat sich ein zu schwaches Messer gekauft, oder 2. Der User wurde beschissen weil er Mangelware gekauft hat oder falschen Versprechungen aufgesessen ist. Ich Habe auch Schraubenzieher zum in Die Wand klopfen. Mit denen fixiere ich Provisorien(wie ein Maurer seine Schnur).
Natürlich könnte ich mir dafür megaharte Superduper Schraubenzieher kaufen die das Abkönnen "müssen". Oder ich kauf halt welch beim Rewe weil´s mir egal ist ob die nach 2x in die Wand Klopfen noch ne Schraube drehen können. Doof bin ich nur wenn ich jetzt nen 400€ Akkuschrauber in die Wand Prügele und dann sage der müsste ja wohl mehr können als ein Billiger Schraubendreher. Ich denke ob ein Messer zum Batonen geeignet ist, hat mit dem Preis garnix zu tun. Und Batoning ist halt auch nicht Batoning. Manche Hölzer die Auf YT gespalten werden, würde ich nicht mal mit der Axt versuchen.
Ich nutze Batoning eigentlich nur für feinere Schnitzarbeiten oder Spreißel, weil die mit dem Beil einfach nerviger sind.
Man hat in YT halt viele die das Batonen sooo hoch hängen. Man bekommt den Eindruch das wäre so manchem wichtiger als Schneiden. Deshalb bekommen manche wohl das Gefühl rummeckern zu müssen. Mir ist das Latte.
Es muss sowieso jeder seine Erfahrungen machen. Wer noch keine Erfahrungen im ruinieren von Messern hat, ist eigentlich sowieso ein Schwätzer wenn er darüber redet was ein Messer können muss und was nicht.
Ich hab mit 13 mal ein 20cm Bowie ruiniert. Ich hatte halt keine Ahnung und dachte das Teil müsste zum Hacken geeignet sein. Heute hätte ich gesehen das der Hohlschliff das nicht überlebt ohne Wellen zu Schlagen.. ;)
LG BB
i have the real deal , and the clones . i have tried to bent and brake it . it is my edc . it is a pry bar and landscapers dream knife . my real f1 i am afraid t scratch it .
love the f1.
I am also a fan of the F1 but I do not like the way it micorchips.
Chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop chop
chop chop chop....
very nyce vid sir.
👍😎👍
Thank you very much
Most welcome
Great fun thank you.atb paddy
thanks for watching. Glad you liked it
can you plese show us how to shapren the f1 with the c4? Thanks!
so i definitely have a question that I'm unsure you've been asked before. I live in the US, however would love to meet you in person one day. I have a minor disability but can't do pretty much anything, but my question is, would you ever be willing to do an overnight bushcraft camp or something of the sort with me or someone with a disability?
I live in Romania, so quite a bit of distance there :( However, in principle, I would not see a problem there.
Hope you find someone to have a bushcraft outing with.
SpartanJohns no worries there I would gladly be willing to make the trip my friend thank you !
Fake or original, I don't understand why people prefer such a thick blade, in such a short knife, when everything you do with it can be also done with a Mora... 🤔
For a number of reasons. Handle, grind, steel, sheath. Moras are good but, for example, as a knife used for processing game, the f1 will do a better job not just at cutting but also prying
@@SpartanJohns That's a good point. I haven't thought about prying with a small knife, but it's a valid usage, especially when hammering and/or batoning it into wood or bone. 👍
Such knives are not meant for cutting and whittling tasks alone. A blade like the mora 510(1,5-2,0 mm) is more suited for that. A full height convex blade might so well with cutting tasks better than one would expect. But it’s primary purpose is still resisting abuse. Looking at the F1 especially you dan understand why the lamination and why Fallkniven heat treats their vg10 to a higher hardness even if the steel becomes “chippy”. I have tested this too. Better for edge retention. It develops microchips which will act like microserrations. The outer softer layers will help it resist such tasks like chopping, prying, batoning. Now i see the logic behind it. Took me a while
Chipping is still one of the worst things that can happen to a knife edge. From a health point of view it's risky to have microchips migrating into your food, especially from a steel that includes toxical elements like Nickel, Mercury, or Cobalt - which are carcinogenic (and VG-10 has a high amount of Cobalt). And you normally need to do some food prep in survival. From another perspective, chipping weakens the neighbour areas of the impact, inducing cracks and fisures around the affected area. That is why a chipped edge is always more difficult to restore by resharpening, without removing a lot more material than you would for a roll or dent. In my experience M390 beats VG-10 in all regards (including toughness and corrosion resistance) and it has aprox. 4 times the edge retention than VG-10. I think that Fallkniven continues to use VG-10, COS and the likes just because of the cost factor, because they have an advantageous contract with Takefu. I have two Fallknivens and like them so much for the craftmanship, design, and quality control, but I hate them so much because of the VG-10 steel.
Chipping is not chipping. Different steels chip in different ways. Sometimes it can be advantagious. When talking about steels with a large volume of hard carbides like s110v or maxamet these chip very different than vg10.
In everyday/outdoor use i never had a steel which i could say greatly(1-4 or 1-5) outperformed another. What you are cutting is most important, then technique and geometry. Steel, imo, is last.
As for coatings and steel getting into food, i don’t worry about that. Just like teflon or aluminium.
nu-i bine cutitu sa faca treaba toporului.
ai deschis iutubu' si ai lasat comentu'
Good for you!
Habar nu ai ce face omul aici!
ba eu stiu tu nu asa ca gura sparta
O sujeito não sabe que o bastão faz da faca uma machadinha. Portanto faz tslho muito profundo e escolhe madeira podre.
the guy....knows a few things. he's been testing knives for quite some time. as the title said this was a destuction test so rotten wood would not do a lot. BUT...hey! who knows? maybe you're more knowledgeable...
Дело не в ноже а в твоей голове
Если ты трухлявую ветку не можешь перерубить
Мимо попадая в рукоять
Say Heah Denis, WoW, what if it is a real
Mc Coy. Is the China one laminated.,,.
how could it be?...i mean if you are going to sell something for 11$...I am surprised it seems like it received a heat treatment.
I broke off the entire plastic handle...thinking about adding a bit of paracord and seeing if it can take a bit of extra abuse..
We'll from this side of the camera Denis, It seemed like it was a great $11.00 knife.,,.
for 11$ it is a good piece of kit. I mean: you can split wood with it and it does not break...so...
However I would add 5-6 $ to that 11 and get a Mora Robust! ;)
Oh, No, I'm not going to get one. I'm happy with my A-1/H-1 set, But the only $10.00 knife that I have that's a tough one is my Hard Use knife. I might of even paid less for it, I'm just saying. Watching you drive it like a golf ball it looked impressive. I'm not in the market of getting a small knife. I just got a Cold Steel Master Hunter in 3V, I have one in the SM III also, and I just bought 4 Fox Knives the Fox Bushcraft Parang that I might use with the Master Hunter in 3V, a Fox Trapper to team with my Fox Pro Hunter and a Fox Trakker Utility Camp and Sniper Knife to team with my Fox Hitam Golok I already had, All I need is the Fox Trapper and the Fox Panabus. This will complete my Wet and Snowy Condition Knives. Oh, I also just bought the Steel Will Druid 240 and the Druid 230. I'm thinking of maybe using the Druid 230 also as a clearing sort of long knife in Spring.,,.
SpartanJohns I think you will like this one: So apparently Fällkniven screwed up when they ordered a batch of F1 old style open leather sheaths (F1oes) they made somekind of misstake and they're selling them via thier website for like €10 + shipping. Why is this inteteresting? Because its premium leather for insanely cheap and it will fit alot of other knives and possibly other tools aswell. I'm thinking Moras specificly. I'm willing to bet every single Mora with a 10ish cm blade will fit right in. Even snuggly if you wet mold it. I bought one, figured I'd use it as a Mora universal sheath.
Btw, If that clone of yours has a decent blank you could give it some custom molded Sugru or wood scales. I'm sure the F1 logo will come right of.
Good info...I just checked it out! Thanks for the tip!I think that a Companion will definitely fit that sheath! I think I will get one!
About the blank...a friend of mine asked me to give him the blank for him to practice making a handle...he told me that if he succeeds I can test the knife further and if it does not break he would like to have it. It will take some time but that will be the next step for it.
If I need a "dirt knife" i will get a Mora Companion in SS...they cost about 15 $ and can take a lot of abuse...plus I know exactly how far I can push them should I need to.
Well....DAMN! Turns out that the cost of shipping brings me to about the ammount I could buy a Fallkniven sheath over here...Even if I buy 2 I will not save much money....
Thanks for letting me know about this..but unfortunately I can't justify the costs related to shipping...
They do look really cool...and the leather looks to be of good quality.... :(
Damn, thats a shame. I only paid about 12 euro total for mine. I didnt realize thier shipping was so expensive to other countries
It's Romania...everything that comes here or leaves from here CAN get expensive...