Good stuff! I am watching this in 2024; good tutorial videos don't age. Thank you for this demo, it gives me confidence I can use my tools to do the same.
Alloy of aluminum is also VERY important, do NOT try to router 3003 (diamond plate and some sheet metal) because it will gum up your bits. a little bit of water based lubricant will help, but for best results use 5052 or 6063 aluminum alloy. 6061 is the easiest to machine.
For a small guy starting doing signs this video may help. Wish I could have a CNC machine but can't afford it now. Good to know a manual router can cut aluminum.
Aluminum's a really sticky metal, I find spraying a little cutting fluid onto any tool I use to work it (other than files) makes a huge difference. Way less stress on cutting edges, less heat, and cleaning the bit or tool afterward is a lot easier. With hand tapping threads into thicker pieces of aluminum, the cutting fluid can make the difference between being as easy as drilling into pine vs. having the tap potentially get jammed into the work piece (or even snap).
Having worked as a CNC lathe guy.. I can't agree more. I hated working with aluminum. up until that point in my life, I'd never thought a metal could be "sticky"
First video of yours I have seen. Very nice and clean presentation! You are informative and professional without sounding rehearsed. Thanks for the info, I will definitely subscribe for more.
Great video, as a woodworker I'd be reluctant to put a router bit into metal, but your technique is one that may well come in very handy some day. Thanks!
You can use your miter and table saw too. When I need repeatable cuts in aluminum it works great, my track saw gets to taste aluminum from time to time too.
Assembly instructions were a little unclear for a couple of items. It works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh though, easy to set up and use. If the instructions were better I would have given it 5 stars.
I like that,👍 joiner for 34yrs n still love router jigs, in fact i like them more now that i have the experience to make the router a very useful tool, 😉 providing the jig is correct to begin with 😂
Lastly a SINGLE flute upcut bit is better. ONe can cut up to 3/32 aluminum in a single pass because the chips are bigger. a 4mm bit works very well. 6mm will work too, but you are removing more metal so it will slow you down.
Thanx for this very well done video. I do some woodworking and a lot of PC case mods. Now I'm ready to try router cutouts in aluminum cases. Dremels and hacksaws and filing always left nasty unprofessional edges.
A bit slot to comment but this is worthy of note - nice precise setup and outcome :). What bit would you suggest for doing shallow routing in aluminium plate - eg creating a random shaped segment deep enough to sit some gears in and glue/fill with resin as a steampunk theme.
What bit would I use to make a copy of another piece that's made of aluminum? Straight bit with a bearing or is there one like you used here made with a bearing?
Yep did everything you said,till my bit fell out n went through all the way in one place of the metal. Put it back in tightened it up tighter then lowered it like you said then the bit broke. Man I was upset, I still got to ez out the stuck peace of bit. I ordered a metal cutting one. It must have fractured the bit when it fell out the first time.
Did the metal one work better? I wonder how many rpm, amp router, thickness of jig. Also, I assume the offset should be 3/32-meaning the jig needs to be 3/32 smaller than the desired pattern all around, if carving outside of the jig: 3/32 bigger, if carving inside the jig.
I cut similar gauge aluminum (old street signs!) on my table saw or RAS saw all the time using carbide blades. Cuts like butter, just wear earmuffs because it's usually pretty loud.
Hmm. I'm working on an aluminium, zero clearance insert for my table saw & was going to take the blank plate to a local engineer to have the underside milled to fit the flange in the cast iron table. I have a couple of spiral upcut carbide bits, so might give it a try myself (I have lots of 5mm aluminium sheet to play with...)
Hello, I want to make my own sign, I was given a makita 3612 1/2 inch, what bit do you recommend for cutting aluminium? Is it possible to cut stainless steel too? I’ve got to learn how to set up and use it first but always want to work with them
I think you don't need to make shallow cuts like these. For thin aluminium like this you can cut in one go. The rpm of the router must not be too high and, very important, check the cutting direction
What is the offset?... If I use a 7/16 th inch offset, I would make my jig a half inch shy on all edges? Then an inch small on say a complex jig shape cutting around it?
Really great tip Cris, you should tag this video on Emmas Spare Room work shop for #roughcut2022 coming up on October 1st 2022. I fill your showing using a router to cut thin alum would be a hit. Bear, new subscriber.
Heat expansion? A sharp and good quality bit, very secure work piece, correct RPM and little slow passes like he did, would not generate much heat at all. You should be able to touch the work piece right away without burning your hand.
This is similar to using a CNC Router.....I use one to cut aluminium quite often.....instead of the sandwich clamp and double sided tape I use suction. But the principle is the same. For intricate design and work a router (or even better laser) will always give you superior and repetitive results over a “jigsaw”, either wise you’d have CNC jigsaws😜.
I want to create a plate that basically is shaped like a X with the ends having a little room for drill holes and a small bracket. I don’t have all the fancy gear though.
Too many questions are not addressed: Will metal bit work better? Brand of bit? I wonder how many rpm, amp router, thickness of jig. Also, I assume the offset should be 3/32-meaning the jig needs to be 3/32 smaller than the desired pattern all around, if carving outside of the jig: 3/32 bigger, if carving inside the jig.
As long as you do it in shallow passes (1/32 to 1/16 inch per cut) It's totally fine. Definitely use a lubricant, and run your router on the slowest RPM possible (3000 - 5000 K would be ideal).
@@gizmoguyar I'm sure you don't mean 5000 "K" rpm which is 5,000,000 rpm. No router will go that fast anyway. Your points about reducing the speed an using lube of some kind are certainly valid, and can't be stressed enough. But my Porter Cable 890 router will not go slower than 10,000 rpm, so I have to set my speed to that lowest value and call it good, and use only a small diameter bit. The slowest speed on my Bosch Colt trim router is 16000 rpm, so I can't use it with a bit larger than about 1/8" diameter. The real numbers for aluminum is 500-600 fpm (feet per min) for wrought aluminum (i.e. 5000, 6000 or 7000 etc. series) and 600-700 fpm for cast aluminum (300.x, 400.x, 500.x, 700.x etc series). For a 1/4" router bit, these cutting speeds translate to approximately 7600, 9200 and 10700 rpm for 500, 600, and 700 fpm respectively. Speed for larger diameter bits need to be reduced even further.
Oops! My bad! I was using the high speed steel bit cutting speeds above. When using carbide bits, the cutting speed for both wrought and cast aluminum is 2820 fpm, which translates to slightly over 43000 rpm for a 1/4" router bit. It is quite possible that Chris knew this when presenting, making it OK to use the maximum speed for cutting aluminum, especially when using a bit 1/4" or smaller, as he did. On the other hand, working backwards using 10000 rpm (the slowest on my PC router) to get over 2820 fpm I would need to use a cutter larger than 1" diameter. ?? I have double-checked my numbers and a Ø1" bit at 2820 fpm is 10,772 rpm. That just doesn't feel right. I'm going to go minumum speed and us nothing larger than Ø1/2" carbide bit. I intend to check this out in my shop this afternoon. I'll reply again after some testing.
Great video. But couldn't you build the jig much easier and with less work if you simply use 4 pcs. of wood put together like a picture frame? And, from my experience, if I were only building one of these, I could just as easily make the jig for a jigsaw and cut it out in one pass.
Is it possible, yes. Is that process practical, not for me. In a fraction of the time it took for you to set up and complete that cutout, I can easily use a jigsaw and file to complete that same cut with equal results with the same accuracy. Thanks but I prefer what I consider a quicker and safer operation in this case.
Roland Kuhn what’s not safe? I sincerely doubt you can easily get such a straight line with a jigsaw and file. I’ve tried it. Not nearly as easy as you suggest and I’ve been woodworking for a very long time.
also, that may be faster for you when making one, but if you're making multiple the router and template is the way to go. as long as you are wearing proper ppe and everything is clamped down this is perfectly safe. Just go slow and do shallow passes like the video shows.
AlergicToSnow re read the reply! I never said it was unsafe so stop saying what I said without reading and pre judging. I said I can and have many times made similar work more simply and quicker. I to have a lot of experience. I have been a carpenter and woodworker for over 30 years. Want me to prove I am just as effective, put your money where your mouth is.
Roland Kuhn you said “quicker and safer”. Looking forward to your video with a jigsaw and file. I don’t know if you can be faster on the first one or not, but I’m pretty sure the second and third are much quicker with the router and jig.
![ROSÉ(로제) - APT. (Band VER.) (With. 이영지) [더 시즌즈-이영지의 레인보우] | KBS 241129 방송](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/IW8qaemx74g/mqdefault.jpg)
Good stuff! I am watching this in 2024; good tutorial videos don't age.
Thank you for this demo, it gives me confidence I can use my tools to do the same.
I’m a sheet metal fabricator, and never thought of this. So cool and clean well done sir 👏👏👏
Finally! Thank you 🙏 This is gold dust. Handheld router cutting aluminium vids/information on internet is nowhere to be seen. Thanks very much 👌🏻👌🏻👌🏻
Interesting and very helpful. Now, I will use my router on a piece of aluminum. Thanks for a great video!
Alloy of aluminum is also VERY important, do NOT try to router 3003 (diamond plate and some sheet metal) because it will gum up your bits. a little bit of water based lubricant will help, but for best results use 5052 or 6063 aluminum alloy. 6061 is the easiest to machine.
I've always got water based lube to hand 😏
@@ChallengeTheNarrative which one is aircraft duraluminum? What number?
For a small guy starting doing signs this video may help. Wish I could have a CNC machine but can't afford it now. Good to know a manual router can cut aluminum.
Aluminum's a really sticky metal, I find spraying a little cutting fluid onto any tool I use to work it (other than files) makes a huge difference. Way less stress on cutting edges, less heat, and cleaning the bit or tool afterward is a lot easier.
With hand tapping threads into thicker pieces of aluminum, the cutting fluid can make the difference between being as easy as drilling into pine vs. having the tap potentially get jammed into the work piece (or even snap).
Having worked as a CNC lathe guy.. I can't agree more. I hated working with aluminum. up until that point in my life, I'd never thought a metal could be "sticky"
Ooooooooooo{ooooo{oooooo{oo
Jjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjjj=jjj
He's not wrecking it cause it's only a 3/32 cut I suppose but I do agree all aluminum/non ferrous work should have lube
This is a video that will certainly come in handy. Thanks.
Oh the possibilities!!!
Perfect editing mate!!!
First video of yours I have seen. Very nice and clean presentation! You are informative and professional without sounding rehearsed. Thanks for the info, I will definitely subscribe for more.
Always wear a cartridge respirator when cutting or grinding aluminum. The aluminum dust is very toxic. ;-)
Thank you
No joke - just ask the original actor that played the tin man in wizard of oz
Awesome! I never think that is possible. Great jig too! Thank you!
Great video to boost my confidence in routing soft metals (I was kinda hesitant prior to this)... big thanks.
Excellent setup of the piece!
Great video, as a woodworker I'd be reluctant to put a router bit into metal, but your technique is one that may well come in very handy some day. Thanks!
You can use your miter and table saw too. When I need repeatable cuts in aluminum it works great, my track saw gets to taste aluminum from time to time too.
This has actually helped out alot.
Yes Sir that's great idea , especially on circle ⭕
2 thumbs 👍🏻👍🏻.
That was sick. Thanks for the vid.
Thank you for your video, it was very useful and inspiring on how a router can be used in different ways.
I have now subscribed to your channel. 🇬🇧
Assembly instructions were a little unclear for a couple of items. It works great ruclips.net/user/postUgkxyFZUPFEey-PuqsPMxqaykBhgA1LWxFHh though, easy to set up and use. If the instructions were better I would have given it 5 stars.
I like that,👍 joiner for 34yrs n still love router jigs, in fact i like them more now that i have the experience to make the router a very useful tool, 😉 providing the jig is correct to begin with 😂
This man is in a league of his own.
Lastly a SINGLE flute upcut bit is better. ONe can cut up to 3/32 aluminum in a single pass because the chips are bigger. a 4mm bit works very well. 6mm will work too, but you are removing more metal so it will slow you down.
If only every “how too” video was a good as this !
Amazing video!
Great video, thank you!
Thanx for this very well done video. I do some woodworking and a lot of PC case mods. Now I'm ready to try router cutouts in aluminum cases. Dremels and hacksaws and filing always left nasty unprofessional edges.
Thank for sharing!
A bit slot to comment but this is worthy of note - nice precise setup and outcome :).
What bit would you suggest for doing shallow routing in aluminium plate - eg creating a random shaped segment deep enough to sit some gears in and glue/fill with resin as a steampunk theme.
You might want to do an aluminum frame over a plate
Thanks for a great video
Please can you advise on the best tips for routing steel
Great video! What's your RPM set to?
Very helpful video thanks for sharing.
Great stuff.
Excellent video, thank you!
Well Done!
What kind of bit did you use? Is it working with metal sheet also? Like 0.5mm to 2mm?
What bit would I use to make a copy of another piece that's made of aluminum? Straight bit with a bearing or is there one like you used here made with a bearing?
Wow just foud your tutorial video thanks, i am a ex kitchen fitter going to do this with some motorcycle brake caliper mounts 🇬🇧👍
Well done.
Yep did everything you said,till my bit fell out n went through all the way in one place of the metal. Put it back in tightened it up tighter then lowered it like you said then the bit broke. Man I was upset, I still got to ez out the stuck peace of bit. I ordered a metal cutting one. It must have fractured the bit when it fell out the first time.
Did the metal one work better? I wonder how many rpm, amp router, thickness of jig. Also, I assume the offset should be 3/32-meaning the jig needs to be 3/32 smaller than the desired pattern all around, if carving outside of the jig: 3/32 bigger, if carving inside the jig.
Thanks Chris good video
I cut similar gauge aluminum (old street signs!) on my table saw or RAS saw all the time using carbide blades. Cuts like butter, just wear earmuffs because it's usually pretty loud.
Hmm.
I'm working on an aluminium, zero clearance insert for my table saw & was going to take the blank plate to a local engineer to have the underside milled to fit the flange in the cast iron table.
I have a couple of spiral upcut carbide bits, so might give it a try myself (I have lots of 5mm aluminium sheet to play with...)
Would the result be the same on 1/4” thickness?
Cheers man.
Can this method be used for flush cutting as well? Can it be applied to a thin stainless steel sheet?
Not CNC , HNC. Great idea. Have to try this on a square tube.. can't hold the cut out. A y ideas.
I was curious if I could use this same method to make a more complex shape, like the back contour of a guitar neck. If anyone knows please respond!
I don’t see why not. You just need to build the template jig if that is the method you would use to route out the shape.
Could this cut a 1/4th thick piece of dibond? If not, what would you recommend? I'd prefer a hand tool as I have to cut curved lines. Thank you!
Good Idea
Hello, I want to make my own sign, I was given a makita 3612 1/2 inch, what bit do you recommend for cutting aluminium? Is it possible to cut stainless steel too? I’ve got to learn how to set up and use it first but always want to work with them
Great video! I'm curious whether you've tried this on steel as well?
that would most definitely NOT work, you need a mill to work with steel
I think you don't need to make shallow cuts like these. For thin aluminium like this you can cut in one go. The rpm of the router must not be too high and, very important, check the cutting direction
What is the offset?... If I use a 7/16 th inch offset, I would make my jig a half inch shy on all edges? Then an inch small on say a complex jig shape cutting around it?
Really great tip Cris, you should tag this video on Emmas Spare Room work shop for #roughcut2022 coming up on October 1st 2022. I fill your showing using a router to cut thin alum would be a hit. Bear, new subscriber.
You da man, Chris! Thank you :)
You recon it would cut mild steal 1mm thick ???
I need to cut a slot in some 80/20 extrusion. Think this will work?
Amazing idea. Thanks u.
THANK YOU GREAT TO KNOW
thanks a million!*~
how do you deal with the expansion of aluminum as you cut?
Heat expansion? A sharp and good quality bit, very secure work piece, correct RPM and little slow passes like he did, would not generate much heat at all. You should be able to touch the work piece right away without burning your hand.
Hola, a cuantas RPM se mueve el motor para cortes en aluminio?
This is similar to using a CNC Router.....I use one to cut aluminium quite often.....instead of the sandwich clamp and double sided tape I use suction. But the principle is the same. For intricate design and work a router (or even better laser) will always give you superior and repetitive results over a “jigsaw”, either wise you’d have CNC jigsaws😜.
I want to create a plate that basically is shaped like a X with the ends having a little room for drill holes and a small bracket. I don’t have all the fancy gear though.
Thank you, it was very interesting.///////////
Excelente !!
Clever lad
What spindle speed are you using?
There are RPM calculators for machining the various metals. Search for "spindle speed for milling aluminum" or similar.
👍tecnica excelente!
Excelente !
Router rotation per minute for aluminum application please ? Thanks
see reply to @gismoguyar (above) Cutting speed is between 500 - 600 fpm for wrought aluminum and 600 - 700 fpm for cast aluminum.
What about extruded sheet aluminium
nice i would go with vaccum for middle part
You can cut most aluminums even with iron tools.
Your tooling would take me a month.
What's the best way to avoid the metal shavings sticking to your clothes?
Too many questions are not addressed: Will metal bit work better? Brand of bit? I wonder how many rpm, amp router, thickness of jig. Also, I assume the offset should be 3/32-meaning the jig needs to be 3/32 smaller than the desired pattern all around, if carving outside of the jig: 3/32 bigger, if carving inside the jig.
👍
Set the router speed to its minimum
Jig is total overkill. essentraspecialty tapes sells removable double sided tape, just use ONE top jig and tape it to the aluminum.
Jesus, the jig you used to make that cut would cost like $50 to put together. If you did this more than once you'd do well to consider a CNC
so thats 1/8", what about 1" or 1.5"?
As long as you do it in shallow passes (1/32 to 1/16 inch per cut) It's totally fine. Definitely use a lubricant, and run your router on the slowest RPM possible (3000 - 5000 K would be ideal).
@@gizmoguyar I'm sure you don't mean 5000 "K" rpm which is 5,000,000 rpm. No router will go that fast anyway. Your points about reducing the speed an using lube of some kind are certainly valid, and can't be stressed enough. But my Porter Cable 890 router will not go slower than 10,000 rpm, so I have to set my speed to that lowest value and call it good, and use only a small diameter bit. The slowest speed on my Bosch Colt trim router is 16000 rpm, so I can't use it with a bit larger than about 1/8" diameter. The real numbers for aluminum is 500-600 fpm (feet per min) for wrought aluminum (i.e. 5000, 6000 or 7000 etc. series) and 600-700 fpm for cast aluminum (300.x, 400.x, 500.x, 700.x etc series). For a 1/4" router bit, these cutting speeds translate to approximately 7600, 9200 and 10700 rpm for 500, 600, and 700 fpm respectively. Speed for larger diameter bits need to be reduced even further.
Oops! My bad! I was using the high speed steel bit cutting speeds above. When using carbide bits, the cutting speed for both wrought and cast aluminum is 2820 fpm, which translates to slightly over 43000 rpm for a 1/4" router bit. It is quite possible that Chris knew this when presenting, making it OK to use the maximum speed for cutting aluminum, especially when using a bit 1/4" or smaller, as he did. On the other hand, working backwards using 10000 rpm (the slowest on my PC router) to get over 2820 fpm I would need to use a cutter larger than 1" diameter. ?? I have double-checked my numbers and a Ø1" bit at 2820 fpm is 10,772 rpm. That just doesn't feel right. I'm going to go minumum speed and us nothing larger than Ø1/2" carbide bit. I intend to check this out in my shop this afternoon. I'll reply again after some testing.
Great video. But couldn't you build the jig much easier and with less work if you simply use 4 pcs. of wood put together like a picture frame? And, from my experience, if I were only building one of these, I could just as easily make the jig for a jigsaw and cut it out in one pass.
But you have to route the jig right.lol
Clean then treat your bits and bearings with Militec-1. You'll thank me later.
3/32 inches... or about 2 mm. Love the jig, but get on the metric train already.
Nice job…..aluminum is not metal just like gasoline engines are not motors they are engines motors are electric.
GTK
i hated that
Is it possible, yes. Is that process practical, not for me. In a fraction of the time it took for you to set up and complete that cutout, I can easily use a jigsaw and file to complete that same cut with equal results with the same accuracy. Thanks but I prefer what I consider a quicker and safer operation in this case.
Roland Kuhn what’s not safe? I sincerely doubt you can easily get such a straight line with a jigsaw and file. I’ve tried it. Not nearly as easy as you suggest and I’ve been woodworking for a very long time.
also, that may be faster for you when making one, but if you're making multiple the router and template is the way to go. as long as you are wearing proper ppe and everything is clamped down this is perfectly safe. Just go slow and do shallow passes like the video shows.
AlergicToSnow re read the reply! I never said it was unsafe so stop saying what I said without reading and pre judging. I said I can and have many times made similar work more simply and quicker. I to have a lot of experience. I have been a carpenter and woodworker for over 30 years. Want me to prove I am just as effective, put your money where your mouth is.
Roland Kuhn you said “quicker and safer”. Looking forward to your video with a jigsaw and file. I don’t know if you can be faster on the first one or not, but I’m pretty sure the second and third are much quicker with the router and jig.
You did say the jigsaw was safer, so perhaps you should smooth your ruffled feathers. AlergicToSnow asked a legitimate question.
Fantastic instruction video! Thank you.