I have the eibach lowest springs on my fl5, and I have to be honest, tho it looks soo good with my garage unique lip, te37’s… THE RIDE QUALITY IS HORRIBLE. I’m riding on a 275 ps4 tire as well, been thinking bout either going with the type s damper module or just getting rsr coilovers. Thanks for the awesome video
@@miguel_migskeyz haven’t replaced components on the rear, however the numbers are within spec for the rear. The front is what needs some further attention.
Nice recap. Glad to hear the ride quality is good in comfort. Curious about the alignment, specifically the -2.0 camber in the right front. While it is beyond the published spec of -1.5°, it's the difference from the left that I'd be more concerned about. They should be within .3° of each other. Pulling the alignment pin can get you -.3° (not 3°), so maybe consider pulling the left pin and getting that to -1.7°, because there's no easy way to get the right side lower without buying some parts. If you do this be sure to readjust the toe on that wheel also.
Yeah meant to say .3 and not 3 when speaking. Definitely going to be monitoring tire wear up front. If no premature wear on either side, I'll just keep it as is, but when I get new tires mounted - I'll be taking some steps to get the camber closer in spec whether its pulling the alignment pin or an adjustable top hat/ball joint set.
Great video. Will you be doing different rims as well? I rather not have to lower the car just because I dont want to scrape ANYTHING but i prefer the lowered stanced look.
Just bought a 93 white accord 4dr ex in near mint condition from a neighbors son who received it from another neighbor who past away and gifted it to him who then re-gifted it to me for $1.00 because he does not have a license. Paint is impeccable condition. Looking to make some changes to the car. Very curious as to your rationale regarding so much front negative camber. Does anyone know if their are caster kits to modify the inclination angle to modify scrub radius when changing to diff. wheels. Also, can anyone tell me if anyone mfg. a front lower control arm with johnny joints or at least a one piece arm to avoide using front compression pin front bushing style. Lots of built in friction with the stock arrangment and not such great anti-dive geometry. Planning on converting the upper and lower control arms to a double ball joint suspension geometry. Allows for pushing scrub radius to the negative for better driveability. Makes the vehicle feel likes its planing on water like a boat when turning vs the corner diving in when turning.
@ got it … I found the stock module way too stiff. The ITS in sport is sweet spot. In R, it still stays compliant. The nice thing about it, it’s an easy swap back.
I agree this is the best way to measure ride height change. Measuring height from the center of the wheel removes any differences from tire wear, air pressure, or different size rims/tires.
@@dereksakamoto doesn't look like it from the video, he is visually sitting higher up front, but it's really an even drop. There have been recent claims and evidence that Spoon revised their lowering springs to lower the front more.
Aight. Changed mine to h&r. Definitely a 2 man job with impact. If you don’t have an impact, it’s not even gonna work guys.
Great video man ! I’ll be going with spoon springs
By removing the alignment pin at the front you can adjust the camber negative and positive.
I have the eibach lowest springs on my fl5, and I have to be honest, tho it looks soo good with my garage unique lip, te37’s… THE RIDE QUALITY IS HORRIBLE. I’m riding on a 275 ps4 tire as well, been thinking bout either going with the type s damper module or just getting rsr coilovers. Thanks for the awesome video
Nice Vid Man !!
Have you replaced your rear arms with adjustable toe and lower control arms? That’ll give you all the desired adjustability on the rear
@@miguel_migskeyz haven’t replaced components on the rear, however the numbers are within spec for the rear. The front is what needs some further attention.
Nice recap. Glad to hear the ride quality is good in comfort. Curious about the alignment, specifically the -2.0 camber in the right front. While it is beyond the published spec of -1.5°, it's the difference from the left that I'd be more concerned about. They should be within .3° of each other. Pulling the alignment pin can get you -.3° (not 3°), so maybe consider pulling the left pin and getting that to -1.7°, because there's no easy way to get the right side lower without buying some parts. If you do this be sure to readjust the toe on that wheel also.
Yeah meant to say .3 and not 3 when speaking. Definitely going to be monitoring tire wear up front. If no premature wear on either side, I'll just keep it as is, but when I get new tires mounted - I'll be taking some steps to get the camber closer in spec whether its pulling the alignment pin or an adjustable top hat/ball joint set.
Thanks for a great review. But can you comment on the cornering performance with these in the various modes vs the OEM springs.
Great video. Will you be doing different rims as well? I rather not have to lower the car just because I dont want to scrape ANYTHING but i prefer the lowered stanced look.
@@Loco_2002 thanks. Unsure at this moment as I really like the OEM 19”s and I’m
Not trying to break the bank with Rays/Volks.
after you installed the lowering springs, do you still have the 20mm and 25mm spacer on the car?
@@NellysaintsSROP yes - spacers are still on it which give it the flush look.
Just bought a 93 white accord 4dr ex in near mint condition from a neighbors son who received it from another neighbor who past away and gifted it to him who then re-gifted it to me for $1.00 because he does not have a license. Paint is impeccable condition. Looking to make some changes to the car. Very curious as to your rationale regarding so much front negative camber. Does anyone know if their are caster kits to modify the inclination angle to modify scrub radius when changing to diff. wheels. Also, can anyone tell me if anyone mfg. a front lower control arm with johnny joints or at least a one piece arm to avoide using front compression pin front bushing style. Lots of built in friction with the stock arrangment and not such great anti-dive geometry. Planning on converting the upper and lower control arms to a double ball joint suspension geometry. Allows for pushing scrub radius to the negative for better driveability. Makes the vehicle feel likes its planing on water like a boat when turning vs the corner diving in when turning.
Swap out the suspension module to the ITS module … you wont regret it. R mode is completely drivable. For me, it’s the perfect marriage.
ITS module is soft. Thats the exact reason I did not buy that and went with the fl5 instead.
@ got it … I found the stock module way too stiff. The ITS in sport is sweet spot. In R, it still stays compliant. The nice thing about it, it’s an easy swap back.
Swift are a superior product !!! Having done more than 60 track days ... That is my opinion
Ride hight is measured from the center of the wheel not from the ground.
I agree this is the best way to measure ride height change. Measuring height from the center of the wheel removes any differences from tire wear, air pressure, or different size rims/tires.
I thought they had revised these springs to give more drop on the front... I guess not
Yah. Rake
Are these the revised version?
@@dereksakamoto doesn't look like it from the video, he is visually sitting higher up front, but it's really an even drop. There have been recent claims and evidence that Spoon revised their lowering springs to lower the front more.
@@boolji these have the black insulators on both F & R. Earlier versions had blue on the front which supposedly indicated the earlier batch.
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