I was a Firefighter and got assigned to a place that worked with molten graphite, exotic fuels, rocket motors, explosives charges, and all kinds of Ethyl Methyl Bad S....tuff. We used a NASA product made, I believe, near you. It’s called Aroegel, it insults up to 2200 deg F. It is amazing, I’ve touched torch cut Titanium that was orange hot and not burned my hand, it got uncomfortable hot, but no sizzle and smoke. I still use those glove and they were issued to me in 1976.
John, you are absolutely right. I saw a co-worker get his glove on a pipe threading machine and roll his arm all the way to his armpit. I listened to his screams as paramedics unrolled his arm to free him from the machine. I think of that even after 45 years.
I usually don't wear gloves. If I do around the fire, I always make sure they are loose enough to flick off in an instant, like flicking water drops of your fingertips. If I can't get them off that quickly, they are too tight.
Thanks for the tip on saving our fingertips! Just like having the right tool for the right job, do you need the right gloves for the right tooling job. I think you get a lot more likes and support if you provided a few recommended glove links. I took an insura to blacksmithing and was told that if you can’t get your glove off in three shakes, it’s too tight. I think the idea of a milk crate filled with left gloves (non-dominant hand) is a great idea!
I think the reason many smiths say not to use gloves at all, is kind of the "Blacksmithing for Dummies" approach. Its easier to say "don't do it at all" and be done with it, than to say "sometimes yes and sometimes no", then have to give an exhaustive list because there will be an unending stream "well what about....."
Yeah. I was forging out the bevels on a large kitchen knife (which btw I would really love to see you do video making a kitchen knife of some sort). And the heat coming off that pretty decent size piece of steel was roasting my hammer hand. I think I'll wear a glove when I get to that part in the future.
John.... I never wear gloves .... as I have had bad experiences with them... machinery and gloves do not mix. I was working with my old drill press outside with snow on the ground about 2' of that nasty white stuff... I was drilling 3/8" or 1/2" holes in 1/4" plate at the time and I had gloves on my hands were about 2" to 3" away from the drill bit as the part was small, clamped down but not the best ( yes I knew better) a strip of metal came out and grabbed my glove and it picked me up and slammed me against the wall with such force I was totally amazed ...luckily the glove came off at that time and didn't wrap me up which it could have easily done that would have been very bad. every sense then gloves have been a no-no for me i don't care how cold it is ! now that I have a lathe and Mill i realise that those machines could rip your arm off easily or worse.... they can Kill you should you ever get caught up in them ! their power is extreme. I say this so others will learn from my mistakes.... the only time I wear gloves is when scraping ice off the windshield , if it's hot I use vice grips or tongs.... I do allot of welding and it's easy to forget that something is still very hot.... a squirt bottle is a handy way to tell if it sizzles use something other than your hands to grab it ! (grin) Bob.....
Very much the subject of discussion here in Germany as well. My dad (Blacksmith and Farrier) never used gloves around the forge and anvil - his argument was that he'd rather use a rag (sometimes a wet rag) to hold on to tongs and handles, because they just drop off you hand if you let go. But that's just one opinion. I like to use leather gloves myself, but only on my left hand to hold the tong/handle, not my hammer hand. I get much better control and grip on the handle that way. And yes, I do have the tiny pinprick burn marks for that. If I use gloves, they are long gauntlet welding gloves (made from thick suede I guess, much tighter and more ductile than the blue ones you showed, though).No gloves (or loose short sleeves!) around rotating tools!!! Also no hoodie strings or such (they make great wicks, especially if they include polymer fabric).Thick cotton or linen jacket, leather apron, eye protection and ear protection.
even if you are the safe worker, or feel lucky because you haven't got hurt. That is about the time even you get hurt.. ask me how I know. I have seen many who have, including that guy I see in the mirror every day. yes please be safe, and Have fun! oh, I was told the #1 rule in a blacksmith shop.. EVERY THING IS HOT!
I just got into fordge welding and I don't wear gloves at all but I will wear them when fordge welding just because of the splatter from the flux but regarding the punches and chisels I found that a pair of tongs made for that work great
Love the video! I personally tend to get complacent when I'm in my own shop. It is a good reminder to everyone to stay safe when working. All it takes is o e accident to lose mobility or your eyesight.
Love this video, thanks for pointing me to it. I usually wear a cloth working glove on my right (south paw) hand. It just barely gives me a heat warning, Gloves are wonderful tools , good to think about a right and wrong time to use them. This is a great tool of the day lesson. Thank you.
I can speak from construction experience, the cut gloves are awesome overall work gloves for dealing with anything sharp, such as sheet metal, glass, etc. For heat/cold, they are pretty well useless. When I'm actually forging (with a gas forge), I tend to wear a heavy welding glove that I keep wet. My water bucket is always within reach, so I keep dunking it between heats. If it gets too hot, steam could be a problem, but I find the water stops the glove from heating up quickly and cools down pieces that are only somewhat hot. It also gives you an immediate indication that something is hot when you touch it, as it sizzles on contact. Anything cool enough not to do to do that is generally ok to hold for a minute. The key is keeping them wet enough, though. About the only down side I've discovered so far is having wet hands for a few hours can dry out and irritate your skin after a while.
I like to forge with a leather riggers glove on my hand that holds the steel (nothing on the hammer hand) , it fits well and is thinish leather, but it is a glove I can shake off easily it it gets to hot. I find the glove allows me time to digest if something is to hot, and I can get rid of it before it does any serious damage. I grabbed the end of a rod sticking out of my slack tank a while back, after being distracted, forgetting I had dropped the cooler end in the tank, as it was getting uncomfortably warm in my hand - fully intending to go straight back in the forge with the hot end. But the wife distracted me by thoughtfully reminding me about some job I had promised to do several months earlier, and after she departed, being distracted, (you know, ears ringing) I just grabbed the bit sticking out of the tank with my bare hand. It would have been barely black it was still so hot. Instantly got full depth burns on my thumb and forefinger I grabbed it with, was weeks before I could grab anything with that hand. Worn a glove on my steel holding hand when forging ever since. I did try a TIG welding leather glove, as it was longer I thought it might protect my exposed wrist - but as you mentioned, it shrank when it got hot and was dang hard to remove, got rid of that quick smart, stay with the riggers gloves. Toss them away when they get to soiled as they lose their insulating ability. I wont wear gloves or even long sleeves when using moving machinery. I have seen some horrendous accidents from caught clothes allowing a machine to suck someone in to it.
I tend to forge with a thick leather welding glove on the tongue hand whether I'm using tongues or just grab the metal because it's long enough to operate without tongues. But if there is any risk of the metal being too hot for bare hand, I use water too cool the end down, and only grasp the piece where the water doesn't instantly start boiling when it touches the metal, so I know that part of the metal is at least below the cooking point of water and thus safe enough to touch with a leather glove without exposing myself to the risks mentioned in this video. I don't use gloves with rotating machinery. In case of severe blisters (only happened to me when I started out forging) or heat radiation from the workpiece I might occasionally use a thin leather glove on my hammer hand.
Good info... I use gloves for certain tasks but not others. It's all about making the wise choice. I'm looking forward to you coverting that big propane tank into a charcoal maker ! Thanks for the video..
Hello. I went to Carolina Glove website but did not see anything with the "1500 cono-guard" words. Saw "kevlar" and they visually looked like the ones in your video (the ones you use often). Can you tell me again please which ones on C.Glove site are the exact ones you spoke of in this video??? (sorry, I know this means looking up the company website selections)
I use a Kevlar fire rated glove on my left when I drift holes (I chain my steel to the anvil)..but they seem to slide a bit on the punch....yesterday they rubbed and hit their flashpoint.. Good thing being an amateur blacksmith has also cross trained me as an amateur fire fighter (right into my quench bucket).....I think its time to make some handles for my punches.........
I just checked as he said they should cool rapidly. Even though the package has "kevlar" written in big letters right across the packaging, the manufacturers description on the website was "Split cowhide leather, gunn cut design with wing thumb, reinforced welted seams, stitched with Kevlar thread, gauntlet style cuff, cotton fleece lining."...womp womp....right in the garbage.
The ones I use will burn if they get to hot, but you know it before they catch fire. But they don't burn fast and you can get them off before its an issue
I would like to purchase a pair to try, but I was unable to understand the name of the company where you bought them for just $25. The Carolina site wants an arm and leg of personal info just to get a quote. Can you point me to your source? BTW, I have been able to watch most of your videos and think that you are doing a superb job on them. I am just a novice and was only able to sell a few hundred dollars of my output at local plant sales. The Dinner bells did well. The twisted and heat colored pot hangers also sold well. (Not bad for a 78-year-old fart, eh?)
Is it possible to acquire a heat tolerance when not wearing gloves while doing chisel work, tending the fire and so on? i have a small forge , thats why im asking.
I was a Firefighter and got assigned to a place that worked with molten graphite, exotic fuels, rocket motors, explosives charges, and all kinds of Ethyl Methyl Bad S....tuff. We used a NASA product made, I believe, near you. It’s called Aroegel, it insults up to 2200 deg F. It is amazing, I’ve touched torch cut Titanium that was orange hot and not burned my hand, it got uncomfortable hot, but no sizzle and smoke. I still use those glove and they were issued to me in 1976.
John, you are absolutely right. I saw a co-worker get his glove on a pipe threading machine and roll his arm all the way to his armpit. I listened to his screams as paramedics unrolled his arm to free him from the machine. I think of that even after 45 years.
That is a serious accident.
I usually don't wear gloves. If I do around the fire, I always make sure they are loose enough to flick off in an instant, like flicking water drops of your fingertips. If I can't get them off that quickly, they are too tight.
Best 2 cents I have heard so far on gloves
Thanks for the tip on saving our fingertips! Just like having the right tool for the right job, do you need the right gloves for the right tooling job. I think you get a lot more likes and support if you provided a few recommended glove links.
I took an insura to blacksmithing and was told that if you can’t get your glove off in three shakes, it’s too tight. I think the idea of a milk crate filled with left gloves (non-dominant hand) is a great idea!
I think the reason many smiths say not to use gloves at all, is kind of the "Blacksmithing for Dummies" approach. Its easier to say "don't do it at all" and be done with it, than to say "sometimes yes and sometimes no", then have to give an exhaustive list because there will be an unending stream "well what about....."
Any chance you could put together a play list of your safety forging videos? These are so helpful and important.
Yeah. I was forging out the bevels on a large kitchen knife (which btw I would really love to see you do video making a kitchen knife of some sort). And the heat coming off that pretty decent size piece of steel was roasting my hammer hand. I think I'll wear a glove when I get to that part in the future.
I work in construction and sometimes gloves can be very dangerous .we normally DON'T USE THEM
John.... I never wear gloves .... as I have had bad experiences with them... machinery and gloves do not mix.
I was working with my old drill press outside with snow on the ground about 2' of that nasty white stuff...
I was drilling 3/8" or 1/2" holes in 1/4" plate at the time and I had gloves on my hands were about 2" to 3" away from the drill bit as the part was small, clamped down but not the best ( yes I knew better) a strip of metal came out and grabbed my glove and it picked me up and slammed me against the wall with such force I was totally amazed ...luckily the glove came off at that time
and didn't wrap me up which it could have easily done that would have been very bad. every sense then gloves have been a no-no for me i don't care how cold it is ! now that I have a lathe and Mill i realise that those machines could rip your arm off easily
or worse.... they can Kill you should you ever get caught up in them ! their power is extreme. I say this so others will learn from my mistakes.... the only time I wear gloves is when scraping ice off the windshield , if it's hot I use vice grips or tongs....
I do allot of welding and it's easy to forget that something is still very hot.... a squirt bottle is a handy way to tell if it sizzles use something other than your hands to grab it ! (grin) Bob.....
Gloves are very dangerous with any rotating mechanism.
Good share John.
Very much the subject of discussion here in Germany as well. My dad (Blacksmith and Farrier) never used gloves around the forge and anvil - his argument was that he'd rather use a rag (sometimes a wet rag) to hold on to tongs and handles, because they just drop off you hand if you let go. But that's just one opinion. I like to use leather gloves myself, but only on my left hand to hold the tong/handle, not my hammer hand. I get much better control and grip on the handle that way. And yes, I do have the tiny pinprick burn marks for that. If I use gloves, they are long gauntlet welding gloves (made from thick suede I guess, much tighter and more ductile than the blue ones you showed, though).No gloves (or loose short sleeves!) around rotating tools!!! Also no hoodie strings or such (they make great wicks, especially if they include polymer fabric).Thick cotton or linen jacket, leather apron, eye protection and ear protection.
Thanks for the input
even if you are the safe worker, or feel lucky because you haven't got hurt. That is about the time even you get hurt.. ask me how I know. I have seen many who have, including that guy I see in the mirror every day. yes please be safe, and Have fun! oh, I was told the #1 rule in a blacksmith shop.. EVERY THING IS HOT!
I just got into fordge welding and I don't wear gloves at all but I will wear them when fordge welding just because of the splatter from the flux but regarding the punches and chisels I found that a pair of tongs made for that work great
I usually forge with a welding glove on my left hand. I think it makes me drop things more.
It will do that. I prefer no gloves, but since I use a gas forge most of the time, I need a glove just to get close to the forge
Same here. Especially when the stock gets short but still too long to use tongs.
Love the video! I personally tend to get complacent when I'm in my own shop. It is a good reminder to everyone to stay safe when working. All it takes is o e accident to lose mobility or your eyesight.
Very good point!
Love this video, thanks for pointing me to it. I usually wear a cloth working glove on my right (south paw) hand. It just barely gives me a heat warning, Gloves are wonderful tools , good to think about a right and wrong time to use them. This is a great tool of the day lesson. Thank you.
Only video I have ever seen on RUclips with 600 to 0 like to dislike ratio
I can speak from construction experience, the cut gloves are awesome overall work gloves for dealing with anything sharp, such as sheet metal, glass, etc. For heat/cold, they are pretty well useless. When I'm actually forging (with a gas forge), I tend to wear a heavy welding glove that I keep wet. My water bucket is always within reach, so I keep dunking it between heats. If it gets too hot, steam could be a problem, but I find the water stops the glove from heating up quickly and cools down pieces that are only somewhat hot. It also gives you an immediate indication that something is hot when you touch it, as it sizzles on contact. Anything cool enough not to do to do that is generally ok to hold for a minute. The key is keeping them wet enough, though. About the only down side I've discovered so far is having wet hands for a few hours can dry out and irritate your skin after a while.
I like to forge with a leather riggers glove on my hand that holds the steel (nothing on the hammer hand) , it fits well and is thinish leather, but it is a glove I can shake off easily it it gets to hot. I find the glove allows me time to digest if something is to hot, and I can get rid of it before it does any serious damage.
I grabbed the end of a rod sticking out of my slack tank a while back, after being distracted, forgetting I had dropped the cooler end in the tank, as it was getting uncomfortably warm in my hand - fully intending to go straight back in the forge with the hot end. But the wife distracted me by thoughtfully reminding me about some job I had promised to do several months earlier, and after she departed, being distracted, (you know, ears ringing) I just grabbed the bit sticking out of the tank with my bare hand. It would have been barely black it was still so hot. Instantly got full depth burns on my thumb and forefinger I grabbed it with, was weeks before I could grab anything with that hand. Worn a glove on my steel holding hand when forging ever since.
I did try a TIG welding leather glove, as it was longer I thought it might protect my exposed wrist - but as you mentioned, it shrank when it got hot and was dang hard to remove, got rid of that quick smart, stay with the riggers gloves. Toss them away when they get to soiled as they lose their insulating ability.
I wont wear gloves or even long sleeves when using moving machinery. I have seen some horrendous accidents from caught clothes allowing a machine to suck someone in to it.
nice tip in the dyneema cut resistant gloves. I think i'll try a pair. THX
Something i discovered watching RUclips ;)
This is very valuable advice! Thank You!
Glad it was helpful!
I tend to forge with a thick leather welding glove on the tongue hand whether I'm using tongues or just grab the metal because it's long enough to operate without tongues. But if there is any risk of the metal being too hot for bare hand, I use water too cool the end down, and only grasp the piece where the water doesn't instantly start boiling when it touches the metal, so I know that part of the metal is at least below the cooking point of water and thus safe enough to touch with a leather glove without exposing myself to the risks mentioned in this video.
I don't use gloves with rotating machinery.
In case of severe blisters (only happened to me when I started out forging) or heat radiation from the workpiece I might occasionally use a thin leather glove on my hammer hand.
Thanks for all the videos you post! With your help I was able to forge my first decent looking pair of tongs!
I have been wondering about options for gloves with regards to safety. Good info John..
Good info... I use gloves for certain tasks but not others. It's all about making the wise choice.
I'm looking forward to you coverting that big propane tank into a charcoal maker !
Thanks for the video..
Hello. I went to Carolina Glove website but did not see anything with the "1500 cono-guard" words. Saw "kevlar" and they visually looked like the ones in your video (the ones you use often). Can you tell me again please which ones on C.Glove site are the exact ones you spoke of in this video??? (sorry, I know this means looking up the company website selections)
They are the Kevlar ones
I also like mig welding gloves , more dexterity than arc welding gloves and almost as much heat resistance but still slower to get off
Great information & great points you bring up, John. Many dangers.
Totally agree with you! Very informative! Thanks! Would love to see how you make charcoal.
One of these days when our fire danger is down.
Black Bear Forge sure! no hurry with that! I'm just interested :)
I use a Kevlar fire rated glove on my left when I drift holes (I chain my steel to the anvil)..but they seem to slide a bit on the punch....yesterday they rubbed and hit their flashpoint.. Good thing being an amateur blacksmith has also cross trained me as an amateur fire fighter (right into my quench bucket).....I think its time to make some handles for my punches.........
I just checked as he said they should cool rapidly. Even though the package has "kevlar" written in big letters right across the packaging, the manufacturers description on the website was "Split cowhide leather, gunn cut design with wing thumb, reinforced welted seams, stitched with Kevlar thread, gauntlet style cuff, cotton fleece lining."...womp womp....right in the garbage.
The ones I use will burn if they get to hot, but you know it before they catch fire. But they don't burn fast and you can get them off before its an issue
I would like to purchase a pair to try, but I was unable to understand the name of the company where you bought them for just $25. The Carolina site wants an arm and leg of personal info just to get a quote. Can you point me to your source? BTW, I have been able to watch most of your videos and think that you are doing a superb job on them. I am just a novice and was only able to sell a few hundred dollars of my output at local plant sales. The Dinner bells did well. The twisted and heat colored pot hangers also sold well. (Not bad for a 78-year-old fart, eh?)
www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/p6640.html
Thanks for sharing this. I have a really nice cousin that has helped me out in that area
Questions: mechanics gloves, will they melt? Would they work for your hammering hand?
They look like they would melt, but I don't know for sure
Yes they do melt, and will melt to your skin. Speaking from experience. I use loose leather glove on the steel holding hand because I have a gas forge
Have you tried Zetex gloves? I just got some, haven't tried them yet. I'll let you know what I think if you would like.
Is it possible to acquire a heat tolerance when not wearing gloves while doing chisel work, tending the fire and so on? i have a small forge , thats why im asking.
To some level I think it is. But never to the point you won't get burned if the materials too hot.
Good presentation thanks.
Until your fingers meet your arm, got it :( that would stink
Not very often.
Mill gloves are 5 times better than leather welding gloves.Lissen to Mr. John S.
I thank you Sir.
Spot on. Good vid
May the downvoter only hit the anvil when forging.
Where did you say you got those kevlar gloves John. ???
They come from Pieh tool www.piehtoolco.com/contents/en-us/p6640.html
Thanks John.
One accident...
😬
👍👍👍
G
Only a clumsy smith where’s gloves