The shape of the guard finger on the replacement fork looks really suspicious and I suspect that it is rubbing on the roller table, stopping the watch. However, even if you could obtain a NOS fork for this watch, untouched since it left the Waltham factory, the escapement parts in movements this age are not freely interchangeable. Each escapement was set up and adjusted to work correctly by hand, and if you replace the escape wheel, fork or roller table the escapement will need to be adjusted to run well, unless you happen to get lucky. If you were to switch forks between two of these Waltham movements, both running well, there is no guarantee of either running well with the forks switched. You may be able to get the watch running by adjusting the guard finger such that there is good safety action and no rubbing between the guard finger and the safety crescent of the roller table when the roller jewel is between the pallet fork horns, but ideally the whole setup of the escapement should be checked and adjusted as necessary. This information seems to be poorly explained (if at all) in most books, so I’ll try to explain it clearly below. Here is how to set up and adjust an escapement. The first step is checking the end shakes and ‘divisions’ which are the vertical clearances and alignments as follows. Ensure that the escape wheel teeth are striking the vertical centre of the pallet stones, the fork horns must have good contact with the roller jewel without touching the roller table and finger is correctly aligned with the safety roller. With that taken care of, it is time to set up the escapement. First check the horn shake. This begins by checking the fit of the roller jewel inbetween the pallet fork horns. The roller jewel should fit easily between the fork horns, without jamming. Ideally should have 0.01-0.02 of shake between the horns. Next, turn the balance wheel such that the roller jewel just enters the fork horns, and examine the freedom of the pallet fork’s action. Use an oiler to move the fork to check the distance the fork moves between the banking pin and the moment the inside of the fork horn touches the roller jewel. This is horn shake. This horn shake distance must be small enough that the pallet jewel does not unlock the escape wheel tooth it’s locking, but larger than the guard pin shake, which is explained below. If this condition is not satisfied, it can be adjusted by moving the banking pin. Horn shake must be equal on both sides for an escapement to run well, if it isn’t, the banking pins should be adjusted to equalise horn shake whilst maintaining the above conditions. Whilst banking pins are moved in an attempt to remedy all manner of faults, adjusting horn shake is the only legitimate reason to move the banking pins. Guard pin shake is tested as follows. Move the balance and hold it in a position where the roller jewel is completely clear of the fork horns. Now use an oiler to test the movement of the pallet fork between the banking pin and the moment the guard finger hits the safety roller. The guard pin shake must be slightly less than the horn shake so that the roller jewel will never strike the fork horns when it tries to enter the fork, and it must be equal on both sides. If the guard pin shake is too large, the guard finger must be adjusted towards the safety roller. If the guard pin shake is too small, the guard pin must be adjusted away from the safety roller. If the guard pin shake is not equal on both sides, the guard finger must be adjusted such that it is properly centred in the fork. Now that the fork/pin/roller interaction is correct, the engagement of the pallet stones and escape wheel must be checked, such that drop, depth of lock and slide are correct. I’m pretty sure you understand the relevant measurements here and they’re readily available in books, too. Adjusting the depth of the pallet stones in the fork is the correct way to adjust the engagement between pallet stones and escape wheel. Having proofread this, I noticed I’ve used the words pin and finger for the guard finger/safety dart. They both refer to the same thing throughout. Hope this helps, if I need to clarify anything, just let me know. Regarding the crown needing to be pushed in to wind the watch, hopefully the sleeve in the pendant just needs adjustment. The watch can’t be left this way lest the time be changed inadvertently by moving the crown, and it’ll cost a lot of amplitude to have the watch in setting mode all the time, as the train will be needlessly driving the setting works when they’re engaged.
@@JDRichard I served in the Navy with quite a few and had some French in University but to answer your question- no. I get by by saying everything backwards and upside down ;)
Наука
Great video
The shape of the guard finger on the replacement fork looks really suspicious and I suspect that it is rubbing on the roller table, stopping the watch.
However, even if you could obtain a NOS fork for this watch, untouched since it left the Waltham factory, the escapement parts in movements this age are not freely interchangeable.
Each escapement was set up and adjusted to work correctly by hand, and if you replace the escape wheel, fork or roller table the escapement will need to be adjusted to run well, unless you happen to get lucky.
If you were to switch forks between two of these Waltham movements, both running well, there is no guarantee of either running well with the forks switched.
You may be able to get the watch running by adjusting the guard finger such that there is good safety action and no rubbing between the guard finger and the safety crescent of the roller table when the roller jewel is between the pallet fork horns, but ideally the whole setup of the escapement should be checked and adjusted as necessary.
This information seems to be poorly explained (if at all) in most books, so I’ll try to explain it clearly below. Here is how to set up and adjust an escapement.
The first step is checking the end shakes and ‘divisions’ which are the vertical clearances and alignments as follows.
Ensure that the escape wheel teeth are striking the vertical centre of the pallet stones, the fork horns must have good contact with the roller jewel without touching the roller table and finger is correctly aligned with the safety roller.
With that taken care of, it is time to set up the escapement.
First check the horn shake. This begins by checking the fit of the roller jewel inbetween the pallet fork horns. The roller jewel should fit easily between the fork horns, without jamming. Ideally should have 0.01-0.02 of shake between the horns.
Next, turn the balance wheel such that the roller jewel just enters the fork horns, and examine the freedom of the pallet fork’s action. Use an oiler to move the fork to check the distance the fork moves between the banking pin and the moment the inside of the fork horn touches the roller jewel. This is horn shake.
This horn shake distance must be small enough that the pallet jewel does not unlock the escape wheel tooth it’s locking, but larger than the guard pin shake, which is explained below. If this condition is not satisfied, it can be adjusted by moving the banking pin. Horn shake must be equal on both sides for an escapement to run well, if it isn’t, the banking pins should be adjusted to equalise horn shake whilst maintaining the above conditions.
Whilst banking pins are moved in an attempt to remedy all manner of faults, adjusting horn shake is the only legitimate reason to move the banking pins.
Guard pin shake is tested as follows. Move the balance and hold it in a position where the roller jewel is completely clear of the fork horns. Now use an oiler to test the movement of the pallet fork between the banking pin and the moment the guard finger hits the safety roller.
The guard pin shake must be slightly less than the horn shake so that the roller jewel will never strike the fork horns when it tries to enter the fork, and it must be equal on both sides.
If the guard pin shake is too large, the guard finger must be adjusted towards the safety roller. If the guard pin shake is too small, the guard pin must be adjusted away from the safety roller.
If the guard pin shake is not equal on both sides, the guard finger must be adjusted such that it is properly centred in the fork.
Now that the fork/pin/roller interaction is correct, the engagement of the pallet stones and escape wheel must be checked, such that drop, depth of lock and slide are correct. I’m pretty sure you understand the relevant measurements here and they’re readily available in books, too. Adjusting the depth of the pallet stones in the fork is the correct way to adjust the engagement between pallet stones and escape wheel.
Having proofread this, I noticed I’ve used the words pin and finger for the guard finger/safety dart. They both refer to the same thing throughout.
Hope this helps, if I need to clarify anything, just let me know.
Regarding the crown needing to be pushed in to wind the watch, hopefully the sleeve in the pendant just needs adjustment.
The watch can’t be left this way lest the time be changed inadvertently by moving the crown, and it’ll cost a lot of amplitude to have the watch in setting mode all the time, as the train will be needlessly driving the setting works when they’re engaged.
Nice one, JD. Since the stem needs to be pushed in to wind, could it be be too short?
Perhaps, but this watch is not worth the additional effort as it has already killed me
Im considering a stereo microscope, i think i would struggle with a loupe, but maybe thats my microbio background swaying me
You should get one
@@JDRichardgo on JD, twist my arm 😂
you didnt do a side by side comparison of pallet forks.
You are correct. I should have
@@JDRichard maybe pallet fork watch had was wrong fork or guard pin was a badly formed replacement.
What magnification of Ary Loupe would you recommend?
X5
@@JDRichard Merci Buckets! ;)
@@Aikidobear129 french
@@JDRichard I served in the Navy with quite a few and had some French in University but to answer your question- no. I get by by saying everything backwards and upside down ;)