Good question. It's called ACM (Active Control engine Mount) utilizes vibration feedback from CKP CMP sensors to determine how much to alerter mount, in effort of dampening excessive vibration. Make for better driver comfort.
@@partsshooter Thanks for the feedback! I own a 2016 Honda Accord V6, so I expect it to be the same as this 2013 V6. However, I can't seem to see this connector on my mount. Is there a vacuum line that supplies this CKP sensor? Is it something I can purchase for my car? I'm currently experiencing some slight vibration and need to change both the front and rear mount. I'll appreciate potential part numbers if you know it 🙏🏽🙌🏽
@@partsshooter Well, my 2010 V6 accord has a weird vibration on acceleration....can't determine if it's my intermediate shaft or motor mounts (I JUUUUUUUUST had CV Joints replaced last week and didn't fix the vibration)
My accord is about to hit 160k miles. Took it to my mechanic for a transmission flush and when he lifted the vehicle he told me to shift the car from park to reverse & drive and i could see how badly the engine would rock back when changing gears. It isn’t as noticeable when you’re driving your car regularly but if once you know the issue is there and you pay attention you can hear the rocking motion. If your car is doing that it’s time for new mounts. Will be replacing mine soon
Great video, the owner of this car is just… “special.” He believes whatever the other shop tells him smh. The original mounts look absolutely perfect & there weren’t anything wrong with them. I hope you keep them for another 9th-Gen V6 Honda Accord.
Excellent video my friend. You’re right about the mounts. They’re super easy to replace. For me, I found it easier to just drop the subframe to change the front and rear mounts. I used an engine hoist from harbor freight and it worked like a charm. Be well and stay safe! Edit: engine support bar lol
Thank you for the video. I have a2013 LX, 4 cylinder, with over 242k. So far the motor mounts are intact. I will purchase the factory OEMs when it's time to change them.
That front mount may look good to most people but when they are deflated looking they usually have leaked out some of the hydraulic fluid and are not good. I would change them out anytime they look squished and deflated. Also look out for rubber transfer from the bump stop to the aluminum bracket that attaches it to the motor. It will leave a rubber transfer mark thats rectangular shaped. That's a clear sign that the motor mount has failed.
I remeber when l needed motor mounts in my mazda years ago. The entire cabin was shaking uncomfortably. Then when the mechanic showed me the engine bay and how much the engine was moving it gave me a visual of of the problem. I think this client needed that, smh. By the way, did he go to Firestone with a preexisting issue for them to offer that diagnosis? It seems pretty weird to just suggest all mounts be changed with no significant issues.
Yes, he went there with the complaint of "vibration" [I should've stated that in video] tyre recommended changing all motor mounts. He called with a request to repair, I did what was requested. Didn't work
Aftermarket mounts are going to be toast much sooner than oem ones. OEM ones are much higher quality in this case, but pricier due to much higher quality.
Hey man great video, I have kinda a specific question so forgive me if I don't make sense. The longer bolt on my serpentine tensioner snapped flush and the frames in the way of me getting a good angle on drilling into the bolt to extract it. I can only come from under or above and that doesn't work. I've disconnected the passenger side mount bolt from the engine hoping to move it a bit but the movement is minimal and doesn't help all that much. Will I have to remove/ loosen all the mounts to be able to raise/lower it to get to it?
Try dropping the subframe on the passenger side to see if you can get a good angle. You're in a tough spot here. I do believe you'll have more room when dropping the engine that way
Would you be able to tell me estimate price for all these 5 mounts parts and labor separately. I am looking to replace with original Honda mounts. I already replaced one time all of these mounts but these were after market. Now my Honda accord need mounts again. It has 195k miles on it.
Yes and no... The "jerking"movement could be misconstrued with transmission mount quality as the last shop thought. Which windup being transmission fluid and not mounts. Broken mounts cause excessive engine movement under instant snap loads, stationary visual inspections of this is a dead giveaway, usually
@@partsshooter So I noticed that when I switch gear and especially when I switch to drive, my engine tend to lift up high, so do you know which engine mount is broke? or I have to remove all 3 to see? Thank you
I have a problem with my 2013 Honda Accord that I can solve. The problem is that it’s always shaking. Any suggestions of what it might be? Also I changed the spark plugs and the ignition coils.
More info needed. But if wheels are balanced properly n not bent.. tie rods and hubs are good, the front electrical active mount is a known source of failure in accord and odessy. Seems fine except when under heavy load.
Hey im just curious, do you have to put anything under engine to hold the engine before taking any of the engine mount? or are you just take the engine mount as it is?
so i just pulled out the front engine mount and that front one is fine, and the back and the transmission mount is fine too, now i have both on the rear left, do you know if it not the engine mount then what else it could be that made the engine lifted high like that when i switch gear to drive? thank you so much for your time
Great job!!!
Please confirm what exact connector goes into the front motor mount and what exactly is it for?
Good question. It's called ACM (Active Control engine Mount) utilizes vibration feedback from CKP CMP sensors to determine how much to alerter mount, in effort of dampening excessive vibration. Make for better driver comfort.
@@partsshooter Thanks for the feedback!
I own a 2016 Honda Accord V6, so I expect it to be the same as this 2013 V6. However, I can't seem to see this connector on my mount.
Is there a vacuum line that supplies this CKP sensor? Is it something I can purchase for my car? I'm currently experiencing some slight vibration and need to change both the front and rear mount.
I'll appreciate potential part numbers if you know it 🙏🏽🙌🏽
@@partsshooter Well, my 2010 V6 accord has a weird vibration on acceleration....can't determine if it's my intermediate shaft or motor mounts (I JUUUUUUUUST had CV Joints replaced last week and didn't fix the vibration)
@@segovian been dealing with a vibration on my 14 accord as well it's annoying I damn near changed everything trying to figure it out
My accord is about to hit 160k miles. Took it to my mechanic for a transmission flush and when he lifted the vehicle he told me to shift the car from park to reverse & drive and i could see how badly the engine would rock back when changing gears. It isn’t as noticeable when you’re driving your car regularly but if once you know the issue is there and you pay attention you can hear the rocking motion. If your car is doing that it’s time for new mounts. Will be replacing mine soon
Mine just hit 170k, thought it was transmission. Mechanic saw no issue, now realized it's an engine mount issue!
Great video, the owner of this car is just… “special.” He believes whatever the other shop tells him smh. The original mounts look absolutely perfect & there weren’t anything wrong with them. I hope you keep them for another 9th-Gen V6 Honda Accord.
I admire your calmness with the issues the new mounts kept giving you
Trust me... I curse! Thanks for the comment
Excellent video my friend. You’re right about the mounts. They’re super easy to replace. For me, I found it easier to just drop the subframe to change the front and rear mounts. I used an engine hoist from harbor freight and it worked like a charm. Be well and stay safe!
Edit: engine support bar lol
Thank you for the video. I have a2013 LX, 4 cylinder, with over 242k. So far the motor mounts are intact. I will purchase the factory OEMs when it's time to change them.
I appreciate taking the time of recording this video.
The easiest way to pull out the rear Mount is by unbolting the fuse box and the mount has more than enough room to come out
Thank you for the time and effort you spent documenting this work. Grateful.
That front mount may look good to most people but when they are deflated looking they usually have leaked out some of the hydraulic fluid and are not good. I would change them out anytime they look squished and deflated. Also look out for rubber transfer from the bump stop to the aluminum bracket that attaches it to the motor. It will leave a rubber transfer mark thats rectangular shaped. That's a clear sign that the motor mount has failed.
I remeber when l needed motor mounts in my mazda years ago. The entire cabin was shaking uncomfortably. Then when the mechanic showed me the engine bay and how much the engine was moving it gave me a visual of of the problem. I think this client needed that, smh. By the way, did he go to Firestone with a preexisting issue for them to offer that diagnosis? It seems pretty weird to just suggest all mounts be changed with no significant issues.
Yes, he went there with the complaint of "vibration" [I should've stated that in video] tyre recommended changing all motor mounts. He called with a request to repair, I did what was requested. Didn't work
@@partsshooter i just realised this is the same car you did the 2x ATF drain and fill on, lol. For some reason that showed up first.
@@lrncephil80 😆 i thought I updated the description, if not I'll do so. Thanks
@@partsshooter no problem. Keep the content coming, your videos are appreciated ✊🏾✊🏾
great video. How did you know the transmission mount (top) was broken?
Thanks for the detailed video. I need to do my front mount as it’s leaking hydraulic fluid
Aftermarket mounts are going to be toast much sooner than oem ones. OEM ones are much higher quality in this case, but pricier due to much higher quality.
Exactly, & the aftermarket mounts weren’t even the exact sizes as the originals.
Hey man great video, I have kinda a specific question so forgive me if I don't make sense. The longer bolt on my serpentine tensioner snapped flush and the frames in the way of me getting a good angle on drilling into the bolt to extract it. I can only come from under or above and that doesn't work. I've disconnected the passenger side mount bolt from the engine hoping to move it a bit but the movement is minimal and doesn't help all that much. Will I have to remove/ loosen all the mounts to be able to raise/lower it to get to it?
Try dropping the subframe on the passenger side to see if you can get a good angle. You're in a tough spot here.
I do believe you'll have more room when dropping the engine that way
Firestone is terrible.. I will push my car past them to find the next shop. Sad they do everyone like this still.
It's probably cause nearly all of the 3.5s sorta jolt into drive and reverse. I think it's the flimsy vcm mounts
Where can you find all 5 motor mounts together for 2014 accord v6? I see only 4 cylinder motor mounts
I doubt it, but for the 4 cylinders are they located in the same spot?
Thank you so much for this video! I’ve been wanting to do mine since my accord is @160K miles
Would you be able to tell me estimate price for all these 5 mounts parts and labor separately. I am looking to replace with original Honda mounts. I already replaced one time all of these mounts but these were after market. Now my Honda accord need mounts again. It has 195k miles on it.
What year & engine is your Honda Accord?
Nice work thanks for making this video. Are you located in philadelphia I need my mounts replaced
love your channel bro...You tore down my exact engine. J30 A5. Amazing help.
You are a legend for this full detailed video
The front mount can be replaced without removing the radiator hose remove left fan first than slide over right fan to the left side and remove it
To take out that bolt on the rear engine mount the one that is horizontal. I need to lift the engine a bit?
Where was it vibrating from I got a vibration from driver side front that the dealer cant find where is it coming from
does replacing the transmission mount will stop the car jerk when i switch from park to drive shift?
Yes and no... The "jerking"movement could be misconstrued with transmission mount quality as the last shop thought. Which windup being transmission fluid and not mounts.
Broken mounts cause excessive engine movement under instant snap loads, stationary visual inspections of this is a dead giveaway, usually
@@partsshooter So I noticed that when I switch gear and especially when I switch to drive, my engine tend to lift up high, so do you know which engine mount is broke? or I have to remove all 3 to see? Thank you
@@MsVupro sounds like a front or a rear motor mount
@@partsshooter thank you so much
I have a problem with my 2013 Honda Accord that I can solve. The problem is that it’s always shaking. Any suggestions of what it might be? Also I changed the spark plugs and the ignition coils.
More info needed.
But if wheels are balanced properly n not bent.. tie rods and hubs are good, the front electrical active mount is a known source of failure in accord and odessy. Seems fine except when under heavy load.
@@moonpigeon I need to check mine I got a slight vibration from driver side
Great video! Can you make a video like this one for 2013 Honda Accord?
This is for the 2013 accord. V6
Where can I get genuine engine mounts for my 2009 v6 accord?
Hey im just curious, do you have to put anything under engine to hold the engine before taking any of the engine mount? or are you just take the engine mount as it is?
I used a Block of wood between the jack and oil pan as needed for extra clearence
so i just pulled out the front engine mount and that front one is fine, and the back and the transmission mount is fine too, now i have both on the rear left, do you know if it not the engine mount then what else it could be that made the engine lifted high like that when i switch gear to drive? thank you so much for your time
At any point, did you have to put a jack stand below to hold up the engine or transmission?
yes, any time you replace a mount you have to support the engine with a wood block that covers the entire oil pan so it doesn't dent it
Is this a manual?
Aren’t these the active motor mounts that dampen the vibration of vcm
They active motor mounts that do not dampen the VCM
Great video very clear, thanks for sharing with us.
Where do you place the jack to lift up the engine?
Used a wooden block under the oil pan or transmission
What brand?
Mine is 4 cylinder but it kinda gives me an idea. Thanks
I found all 5 new on ebay for 140... cheap if they feel worn...
Replacement transmission accord v6 sir
👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿👍🏿
Y yo