This is the best test I've found, keeping it simple. The only thing I'd suggest is explain that the "drain" is electrically connected to the back plate.
Thank you for troubleshooting down to the component level on this fault. Now I am off to order two spare mosfets just in case I run across this component failure in one of my three heaters in the future. .
Wow..After watching countless tutorials on Mosfet testing, your is the Only No Nonsense, and practical guide. I just now tested my scooter motor speed controller and 9 out of 15 failed Mosfets, Failed. Time to desolder and replace them with genuine IRF3205 parts instead of the failed NEC85H21s made in China. That's a lot of Mosfets to fail at the same time. Thank you.
This is a very great and easy to understand video. Now I am going out to the garage and test the MOSFETs in my inverter charger that isn’t working. Question neither the inverter or the charger portion of my unit is working, does the charger portion use MOSFETs also?
Great video. Question. Using multimeter I determined my yellow phase wire to controller has blown MOSFET Controller is 36v 22ah 9-MOSFET. the MOSFETS for each phase wire has one K150E09NE mosfet + two 110N7F6 mosfets. For the "good" phase wires (blue/green), my multimeter readings are not around 2V, most are between 1.3 -1.5v. The readings on bad phase wire (yellow) range from 0.2v - 0.02v, a clear indication that said mosfets need to be changed. should i be concerned with my readings on the good phase wire and their respective mosfets? i don't get a 2v average, but no indication that mosfets are bad when phase wires are testing with multimeter or with ebike diagnostic testing device. always eager to better my craft. hope u can help. /bklyn👑
In one of your other videos you mention PJ is going to a larger mosfet in the future. Can you let us know when those will be available as replacement parts, if they would be compatible, versus what is being used now? As my 10K unit will be powering half of my house I will be buying service parts to put on the shelf for a 'just in case' scenario and would rather purchase the larger mosfet sets and replace all of them at one time. Thanks! appreciate all of your vids....
Can the same test be applied to a car audio amplifier? My car audio amplifier is a MOSFET amp, and I'm having a lot of problems with it but I don't see any blown caps..
Okay the end of your video pretty much answered my question thanks Haha guess I shouldn't ask questions until the videos over but I just didn't want to forget the question so I paused it to ask cheers
Hello Sean I received my 2018 24-volt 15000 watt inverter last week and was all excited. At last! I noticed the box had a couple of creases on it, but all in all didn't look too bad. I signed for it, took it home, unboxed it and removed the lid for the inspection phase. UPS must have bounced it off of everything they could find. I couldn't believe it. The toroidal transformer was shifted and chipped the mosfet board and the underlying power board. The lead connection at the transformer looked like a rodent had at it and all four corners of the case are slightly bent. It was shipped out to you at 3:30 central time today, 11/5. I hope you can put humpty-dumpty back together again. TJ Houston
So are you saying if you test one on the left and it's bad the whole board is bad? all the mosfets ? Or if you test the next one and it's good then you can leave that one and just replace the ones that you're not getting 2 volts?
But can you test each individual transistor while they're soldered in place? I'm asking because I have a power supply I'm trying to test. I really don't want to desolder all the parts to test. I put the leads on two identical transistors and one of them beeps while on the outside leads. So that one may be bad?
Good morning, I have noticed that some mosfets have a ring on the middle legs, and others do not. Those go somewhere specific? remember that the inverter has an AC side and a DC side. I have that doubt
I tried this Can you please help me to understand if I’m doing something wrong All 8x MOSFET’s shows OL if I try this… Its on a growatt 5000TL Models are all the same: GWT80H650FB HI3028 V5 KOR 962
Can I take mosfets out of a completely different device and use them somewhere else? Like I have a leaf blower I want to change the mosfets on instead of ordering some can I use some from an old PS3 or something as long as they look the same and have the same solder points? Is it common for different devices to use similar mosfets?
Hello, I have a 15k power jack, all the mosfets had been damaged, I bought them all and also installed ALL the boards, again the mosfets on the positive side burned, I don't know the reason, my question is: those mosfets are installed in a specific order? is that I saw a different solder on some of them below, like a joint, or are they put anywhere? mine is 24v 6 pcs. Excuse my English, I'm from Puerto Rico.
I bought an older Aims pure sine wave inverter that powers on to a red fault led and outputs nothing- I can go in and check the mosfets this way while they're soldered on the board? I would just check each one like you did here?
Dumb question here. How is the heat sink measuring anything? Is it tied into the circuit somewhere? The mosfets I need to test don't have heat sinks like this, so not sure where to measure any voltage.
The Gate, or the Pin 2 is connected to the upper part of the mosfet where screw is placed, so basically he is testing the voltage across the gate and drain.
In my testing/checking of MOSFETs using Multi-meter, when the gate is charged, why some MOSFETs (N-channel & P-channel), the drain to source let us say 0.002 or less my meter reads, others starts with more higher like 0.435 and running up as fast as a second or half a second until showing infinite? Discharged test is working (no reading on drain to source), What does it mean? Does all MOSFETs behave like that?
That is sometimes fine... Try continuity mode.. Drain should not beep to gate or source.. Drain is the metal tab on the back of the mosfet or the center pin.... GDS... 99% of the time..
P80NF55 is the info you need. That's the type (or name) of that particular mosfet. The other letters/numbers are related to manufacturing identification and date of production. Type P80NF55 into google, to get the datasheet for this particular mosfet and you'll have all the information you need to know e.g. Voltage and current rating plus a thousand other parameters that this mosfet will operate within.
This is the best test I've found, keeping it simple. The only thing I'd suggest is explain that the "drain" is electrically connected to the back plate.
Thank you for troubleshooting down to the component level on this fault. Now I am off to order two spare mosfets just in case I run across this component failure in one of my three heaters in the future. .
Wow..After watching countless tutorials on Mosfet testing, your is the Only No Nonsense, and practical guide. I just now tested my scooter motor speed controller and 9 out of 15 failed Mosfets, Failed. Time to desolder and replace them with genuine IRF3205 parts instead of the failed NEC85H21s made in China. That's a lot of Mosfets to fail at the same time.
Thank you.
This is a very great and easy to understand video. Now I am going out to the garage and test the MOSFETs
in my inverter charger that isn’t working. Question neither the inverter or the charger portion of my unit is working, does the charger portion use MOSFETs also?
Great video.
Question. Using multimeter I determined my yellow phase wire to controller has blown MOSFET
Controller is 36v 22ah 9-MOSFET.
the MOSFETS for each phase wire has one K150E09NE mosfet + two 110N7F6 mosfets.
For the "good" phase wires (blue/green), my multimeter readings are not around 2V, most are between 1.3 -1.5v. The readings on bad phase wire (yellow) range from 0.2v - 0.02v, a clear indication that said mosfets need to be changed.
should i be concerned with my readings on the good phase wire and their respective mosfets? i don't get a 2v average, but no indication that mosfets are bad when phase wires are testing with multimeter or with ebike diagnostic testing device.
always eager to better my craft. hope u can help.
/bklyn👑
I have a Mecer inverter. It shows gate to heat sink OL is that a good mosfet
In one of your other videos you mention PJ is going to a larger mosfet in the future. Can you let us know when those will be available as replacement parts, if they would be compatible, versus what is being used now? As my 10K unit will be powering half of my house I will be buying service parts to put on the shelf for a 'just in case' scenario and would rather purchase the larger mosfet sets and replace all of them at one time. Thanks! appreciate all of your vids....
Can the same test be applied to a car audio amplifier? My car audio amplifier is a MOSFET amp, and I'm having a lot of problems with it but I don't see any blown caps..
Okay the end of your video pretty much answered my question thanks Haha guess I shouldn't ask questions until the videos over but I just didn't want to forget the question so I paused it to ask cheers
what about if they show OL
Can you test a IGBT while still in the circuit board?
What if they test way higher then 2?
Simple clear instructions, great video
Does your technique work for both N- and P-channel enhanced MOSFETS? Don't think you mentioned this in your video. cheers
He was testing NPN... PNP just reverse the leads.
Hi ,am from India ,may I know why the MOSFETs are burn..?can you explain with examples pls
What if it shows 0.66V ?
is it CSD19505KCS?
Hi. Does this work on EUC mosfets? I mean can i do same test?
Hello Sean
I received my 2018 24-volt 15000 watt inverter last week and was all excited. At last! I noticed the box had a couple of creases on it, but all in all didn't look too bad. I signed for it, took it home, unboxed it and removed the lid for the inspection phase. UPS must have bounced it off of everything they could find. I couldn't believe it. The toroidal transformer was shifted and chipped the mosfet board and the underlying power board. The lead connection at the transformer looked like a rodent had at it and all four corners of the case are slightly bent. It was shipped out to you at 3:30 central time today, 11/5. I hope you can put humpty-dumpty back together again.
TJ Houston
Hey there. Message me on Facebook please.
So are you saying if you test one on the left and it's bad the whole board is bad? all the mosfets ? Or if you test the next one and it's good then you can leave that one and just replace the ones that you're not getting 2 volts?
But can you test each individual transistor while they're soldered in place? I'm asking because I have a power supply I'm trying to test. I really don't want to desolder all the parts to test. I put the leads on two identical transistors and one of them beeps while on the outside leads. So that one may be bad?
Same question
Yes you can. He answered it at the 4:25 mark of the video.
The readings were not clear
Good morning, I have noticed that some mosfets have a ring on the middle legs, and others do not. Those go somewhere specific? remember that the inverter has an AC side and a DC side. I have that doubt
the rings (Ferrites) just help to to dampen spikes.. Kind of like noise suppression.
I tried this
Can you please help me to understand if I’m doing something wrong
All 8x MOSFET’s shows OL if I try this…
Its on a growatt 5000TL
Models are all the same:
GWT80H650FB
HI3028 V5
KOR 962
Hello pls I have a question
Do you sell the 24v ones
Can I take mosfets out of a completely different device and use them somewhere else? Like I have a leaf blower I want to change the mosfets on instead of ordering some can I use some from an old PS3 or something as long as they look the same and have the same solder points? Is it common for different devices to use similar mosfets?
Hello, I have a 15k power jack, all the mosfets had been damaged, I bought them all and also installed ALL the boards, again the mosfets on the positive side burned, I don't know the reason, my question is: those mosfets are installed in a specific order? is that I saw a different solder on some of them below, like a joint, or are they put anywhere? mine is 24v 6 pcs. Excuse my English, I'm from Puerto Rico.
hi bro where are you bring shop address
I bought an older Aims pure sine wave inverter that powers on to a red fault led and outputs nothing- I can go in and check the mosfets this way while they're soldered on the board? I would just check each one like you did here?
Thank you so much you really save me of plenty work
Dumb question here. How is the heat sink measuring anything?
Is it tied into the circuit somewhere? The mosfets I need to test don't have heat sinks like this, so not sure where to measure any voltage.
The Gate, or the Pin 2 is connected to the upper part of the mosfet where screw is placed, so basically he is testing the voltage across the gate and drain.
My bad, it should be drain for pin 2 not gate.
Why don't you touch the drain
The drain in electrically connected to the back plate.
In my testing/checking of MOSFETs using Multi-meter, when the gate is charged, why some MOSFETs (N-channel & P-channel), the drain to source let us say 0.002 or less my meter reads, others starts with more higher like 0.435 and running up as fast
as a second or half a second until showing infinite? Discharged test is working (no reading on drain to source), What does it mean? Does all MOSFETs behave like that?
Thanks. This helped me fix my inverter.
Hey what about high voltage 600V N-Type MOSFET? I don't get the 2V when probing Gate to Earth. It shows open and no voltage.
That is sometimes fine... Try continuity mode.. Drain should not beep to gate or source.. Drain is the metal tab on the back of the mosfet or the center pin.... GDS... 99% of the time..
If you have a reading of 1.299 in diode mode is this good
I have a burned mosfet from ST, it's a P80NF55 @ CZ OYN 6 MAR 839! can you explain what are these digits mean! thanks
P80NF55 is the info you need. That's the type (or name) of that particular mosfet. The other letters/numbers are related to manufacturing identification and date of production. Type P80NF55 into google, to get the datasheet for this particular mosfet and you'll have all the information you need to know e.g. Voltage and current rating plus a thousand other parameters that this mosfet will operate within.
i tested my mosfets the way you suggested to and it reads 0.794 so does this mean that they are bad?
Are some mosfets normally on while some are normally off? Or are all of them the same?
Sorry, I'm not on facebook. Any other way to contact you?
Yes send me a private message here on RUclips.
@@GenetrySolar how to send private msg on Utube..?
@@GenetrySolar can I test each independently to know d state of each mosfet per head..!
Plz,zoom Closer for a better video(clear)
Very helpful.Thanks.
Cool, i love rows of FETs. Gets me hard LMAO
Mosfets have G D S pins, but this specialist has L R and M pins.
Creative video,thanks :)
you say show 2 volts did multimetre in diode mode mesure volts ???
Yes
@@GenetrySolar mine show 260 ??? and more
awesome thankyou very much