Chris, this is kinda hard for me to say but I'll go ahead and say. Im 62 years old and have been working on cars for years and I always learn a lot when I watch youre videos. Please keep showing us how its done. thanks a lot
No wonder so many people subscribe -- you explain your reasons for replacing items, their purpose, and even do a bit of educating. You work safely as well. Thank you for this video.
Dude, thank you so much for this! I was having a charging issue with my '03 Ranger. Alternator and battery were both good, had continuity through all the wires that I checked, and I was stumped. Then I saw you showing your speedometer bouncing and remembered I had the same thing happen to me when my issue started. Cut open the fusible link and low and behold, the 18 gauge wire was completely corroded off of the alternator wire. Reconnected it and my charging issue was solved. Thanks again!
I liked this video a lot because of your soldering job. I need to fix my compass/ thermometer on my truck and have been afraid to do so but after seeing this video, I can see that it doesn't have to be picture perfect for it to work. Thank you!
Might be 5 years since you posted your comment, but I'll just drop a tip in for those wanting to solder for connections. The one Chris did is known as a cold solder joint which is when the iron and wires aren't hot enough, that's an example of what you don't want. The solder joint you're looking for is like the pic Chris showed which is when you get the wires hot enough for the solder to wick into the strands efficiently. Also remember to tin the tip of your iron to allow heat to transfer more easily and dab a bit of soldering flux onto the wires for easier soldering. Don't be afraid to have your iron hot too because using a hot iron allows you to get the job done quicker.
Kudos for giving proper soldering technique. One additional tip that will help is to first add some solder directly to the iron to create more contact area for the heat to transfer through. It also might help to add some flux to help the solder to properly bond.
Thanks! I had no idea what those cables did, today my mechanic said they needed replacement, it's an 83 Subaru Leone, so you could imagine how bad they can get, and I had the same issues you mentioned but couldn't find the cause.
Man your like a scalpel when you explain different things you more than enough information to satisfy me instead of just enough info. Thank you for your service Brother
Protip to anyone trying this: Melt a little solder on the tip of your iron before heating up the wire with it. Having a wet (tinned id the term) tip on the iron transfers the heat better!
You’re so helpful!! I know jack about cars and I’m too broke to take issues like this to a shop. I’ve taken care of every issue I’ve had myself by watching your videos. This information guide will be used next, for me and my ‘94 explorer. Thank you!
Just a quickie here. I add small, chopped pieces of hot glue stick inside the shrink tube. When you heat up the shrink tube, the glue melts and seals the connection.
This might be the exact issue for my 2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer. Your description of how the car acts with the fusible link disengaged, is exactly what I'm experiencing. Thanks Chris Fix. I'll let you know if it works out!
Er mer gerd, my Electrical Engineer is dying on the inside seeing a soldering job like that. You needed a hotter iron to make it work better. I really like those butane soldering irons for jobs like this.
This is a great video. I like it because my 84 Toyota FJ60 has a three wire fusible link that uses male & female spadeblade connectors to join the regular wires with the fusible link wire. Each junction is protected by a plastic housing that is very hard to take apart and remove the connectors from. You can buy a new fusible link but it costs $35 to $60. Also, if you still have a short somewhere it is possible the brand new fusible link will burn up again. I like the idea of just buying 10 ft of each gauge of fusible link wire that you need and fixing it yourself. Be sure to cut the lengths of each fusible link wire to match the oem length. Also use a conversion chart when you have Japanese fusible link wire measured in square mm (cross sectional area) but you are buying 18 or 20 gauge wire. It may also be important to keep each wire from touching the other using fire retardant cable sleeves.
Stole the words right out of my mouth. And also use marine heat shrink for outside applications (underhood). They also make special clear heat shrinking wraps with solder in the middle for a perfect seal and mate these days.
Make sure the flux is for electrical wiring. You don’t want the highly active acid containing flux eating your wiring up after you’re finished with a nice repair job.
I need you in my lifetime you're the reason I work and fix whatever I can but I also know when to leave it to the pros. Very thorough and don't listen to anyone else's opinions on how soldering looks. If it is bonded together WHO CARES? I THINK YOU DID AN AMAZING JOB
Trick on soldering: put a bit of solder on your tip. This will increase the surface area of contact with the iron, transfering more heat to the wire. Also, you do not need to actually go on the opposite side of the wire, but put solder anywhere on the wire. That mean you can get closer to the iron where it will be hotter, then move to the opposite. The idea is that the solder contain flux in the middle. Think of it as a solder tube filled with flux. The flux is a cleaner and will melt at a slightly lower temperature than the solder itself. You want it to flow on the wire, not on the iron. Since normally you solder small wire, heating on one side and soldering on the other is the best way to do it, however it can become difficult on big wire... As the wire get filled with solder it get easier to add more solder... The strands barelly touch the other, so barelly transfert heat. The more solder, the more contact, the more heat it can transfert...
I've always hated to solder, but it's the only safe way to put two pieces of wiring together without risking to cause a fire in a long term. Great video Chris!
David Miranda I am so bad at soldering. It seems so easy but for some reason, I can never get it hot enough. That is why I went out and got the lead solder. Thanks bud!
ChrisFix David Miranda It's all in the tip, so to speak. :-) Having the right soldering tool, the correct HEAT (biggest reason for success/failure) and patience is the make/break line. However, there are some fantastic solderless connectors on the market that are also waterproof (definitely for underbody and trailering needs) so you DO have options.
***** ChrisFix I've never heard from them... Could you leave us a link to see what you mean? They sound really helpful to use in places where is just too difficult to solder. Thanks!
David Miranda There are many connectors on the market. I'm familiar with this brand: www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=heat_sealable_terminals&channel . You can find online and even in the big box stores, just depends on your needs. Good luck with your future projects.
nice! that's a great tip, right there. I try to avoid solder as much as I can, and I think those connectors are definitely a great option. Thanks a lot *****!!
Chris, I would first like to say thank you, this was incredibly helpful. I was wondering why you disconnect the negative ground instead of the positive ground?
If you remove the positive first, when you rotate the wrench you could cause a spark if the end of the wrench touches anything metal. Once the negative pole is removed, that risk disappears. With new cars, that sudden discharge could damage sensitive electronics or blow fuses. Because the negative pole of the battery is directly connected to the chassis, touching your wrench to any metal will not cause a spark when you remove the negative pole first.
@@spelunkerd Exactly. Other than the risk of shorting your wrench on something, electrically it doesn't matter which cable you disconnect prior to making repairs. The direction of electron flow is completely irrelevant here since a complete circuit is required for anything to happen and the circuit can't be complete with either cable disconnected.
I've been repairing my own vehicles for around 4-5 years now, learninig from RUclips videos like yours, and I've probably had up to 3 vehicles with this problem. I'm glad you made this, gonna check my Ford Escort to see if this is its issue...hopefully it is.
Man, your video quality is getting better and better. I could see tiny dust articles flying when you were cutting the wires@3.01. Excellent, excellent video man, always good to know these things just in-case the car won't start and I gotta hurry out of a lady's driveway early in the morning...hahaha Seriously, this is excellent information to check on a vehicle that won't start. Thank you ChrisFix.
As an electrical engineer (part time), that method of soldering is a bit rough! You just need to work on the soldering, it shouldn't look like a bubble of solder around the wire, the wires should look like they're turned silver and bonded like weld. The rest is amazing, keep up the good work! Oh and use flux to make it easier!
Yes definitely use a rosin core solder! Plain no flux solder can get you into trouble if the solder doesn't flow. I just saw your comment after I posted about the soldering job. I agree 100% sir.
Chris good soldering job just a quick tip. Im a plumber and when we solder copper piping we have to make sure the copper pipe is cleaned (using abrasive cloth/sandpaper) If you want the solder to stick better try cleaning the wire with the cloth to get the debris off. Solder will only stick properly on clean metal.
+Nikolai Tsakov Acid flux is used for soldering mechanical parts other than wire and electrical components - when you can wash the flux away. There is also non-acid flux that is used for electrical wires and components. It will not corrode the wires because it was designed for soldering wires without leaving corrosive residue.
Soldering is easier if you let the metal get really hot that the solder melts quickly. Just don't disconnect the iron from the metal until that solder melts easily and all the way through. I like the pic of a good soldering job. makes me feel more confident in the jobs I've done in the past...they look just like that pic...hard to know if you did something right without knowing what its "supposed" to look like.
Thank You for this video, I'm learning to work in my own vehicles and your videos a great help. Right now I'm trying to get my'85 Bronco 2 to run. I think this maybe what my issue is... Fingers crossed
i have to say thank you so much. i have a 91 camaro that is currently doing the same thing. i just found a blown link today, and have been experiencing many issues like this recently. have not yet got to working on it but will do so shortly
I'm not afraid to solder. I am an electronics technician but I think in this case would have used some insulated butt splices. If you do them right (with the correct tools) you won't have any issues. Your splices would need some HD heat shrink or maybe a few layers of heat shrink. A stray wire can poke right through the shrink and short out. Also if any shorts on the battery side, there is nothing to limit the current---POOF! Blessings, John 20:29
hi chris, I have the same problem with my 1989 toyota, but I couldn't see the Gage # of the old fusible link, so let put a 8 gage#, should I put a 12gage instead of 8 is working good so far,thank you, like all yours videos, cheers
I just wanted to say thank you. My dad was looking for the fusable links on my car and everywhere we looked online we couldn't find it. I showed him this video and he found it immediately! seriously thanks
Nice video, but let me suggest that you need to get a little higher wattage soldering iron or gun. 100W will work fine. Then, you don't need to spend a lot of time heating the joint. Higher wattage will heat up the joint fast and the solder will flow better. The solder in the video almost looks like some of the cold solder joints we see on electrical equipment . A cold joint is when the solder didn't flow into the nooks and voids between the wires. Keep in mind that a solder joint is first a mechanical connection as shown in this video. Good contact, twisted. The solder will fill in the voids. We all have seen attempts of guys melting blobs of solder to join the wires. Solder isn't the #1 thing holding the wires together, it's the mechanical connection first. Not knocking the channel of video, you are great and have helped me and my friends many times. Take care.
ChrisFix when you solder larger thicker wires the heat tends to oxidize the outer exposed wires and the solder, even rosin core solder tends to bead up and fall off without sticking or flowing despite the temperature of the copper being at or above the melting point of solder.
ChrisFix yes, mostly with larger wires. The rosin core solder does ok for the smaller stuff by itself most of the time. What gets people sometimes is when they melt the solder on the iron and blob it onto a cold joint the rosin from within the solder makes it flow better and "solder easier" albeit incorrectly with a good chance of a cold joint. I just take the wires and roll them around in a little container of flux I used to get at radio shack, the stuff looks like a mix between jello and earwax.
ChrisFix I went thru this by myself with my first car which my friends call garbage but i loved it back then i learned a lot by that its also quite good and satisfying feeling to fix your car by yourself :) One of my friends why is now making fun of that old car just bough his first car few years ago, and he is in his late 20s. Its true that his first car(lancer x) is much better then the Nissan sunny i had when i was 19, but he is unable to do a simplest job on his car and is always asking me for advises :D Also its quite funny that somebody who drives family sedan have the guts to call car guys first car a garbage. Anyway since then a lot of time passed and as a car guy i drive Civic Type R Euro :) so far the best car i had :) And about your projects what i learned so far with cars is that if you are really not going for some hiend mods with very expensive parts usually you will mess up the car, the way how the were build is above the cheap mods. Please dont rice out your car:)
I own a 1980 Rx7 and one them sum bitches broke I made one out of an old oscillating fan and now my tach jumps around when it's running if it decided it wants to run that day
Thanks so much, I have an old t-bird that's been sitting in the yard because I didn't know what was wrong with it. I've been watching your videos over the past few days just trying to learn stuff, and this video was exactly what was wrong with it.
WCGwkf They are on some newer cars today as well. Fusible links are different than normal fuses because they can withstand a high amp load for an extended period of time compared to a regular fuse that burns right away.
It's an old video, but I just watched it and learned about something I never knew existed. Now I'm going to go look for these on my cars. Nice work as always @ChrisFix.
Going to use this info to investigate electrical problems on my truck. I've been having weird Christine crap going on for 12 months now. Replaced the ECM, alternator, battery, the big amp fuse off of the battery, and here I am back at square one almost a year to the date.
hey Chris ,hi u? I could use a little help with my 2001 Dodge Neon 4 cylinder. so the car never gave a bit of problem never had a problem starting never cut off. so and driving last night and hit a railroad track pretty hard and the car just shut off. I attempted to start it back after pulling off to the side safely. when I turn the key in ignition the lights in the dashboard light up but the car won't start nor does it say anything. battery is brand new great connectors on top horn blows strong lights come on. I don't really have access to testers and things like that. I thought it might be the starter however upon turning the key to anything happens as the lights on the dashboard light up no sounds what so ever. Any suggestions will be helpful. Thanks
You may be correct I'm going to get up in the early morning and do a more thorough check I will begin with the starter wires and things that lead power to those areas. Thank you for getting back to me I value your videos and your advice.
Hello guy from 3 years ago, the speedo works on resistance as most sensors do. The bad link is introducing resistance where other wise it should be 0 at stop. The lower current is interpreted by the speedometer as movement.
You've taught me sooo much. and I've turned around and fixed sooo many people's cars and then they ask how I learned and I say there's this awesome guy on youtube giving out lessons for free on this shit and they're like nah way! thats cool. thanks for fixing my shit. see ya!
My lights started flickering on and off my gages started acting crazy and my Radio on and off by the firewall i found a wire Thats link into 2 wires burnt feels stretched i have 79 blazer going to fix that wire hopefull thats the problem
@@chrisfix the wire was burnt but wasn't the problem was ground straps she up and running like a beast couldn't believe would cause the lights to stay on and all the gauges to work and Radio
You know a lot about fixing cars. Thanks for the videos. When you are soldering, like you say, keep the heat on the wires and not the solder... but you’d do better to keep your heat on the wires after your solder melts. That way it wicks up under the insulation and the joint is 100x stronger at least... lots of flux helps. Building a few hundred nav harnesses for jet aircraft helps too. Haha 5 miles of wire in an airplane bro.
Just thought to mention in case no one else did. I have done a lot of soldering. Solder has a flux core, but it is best to put solder on the connection as well. It will eliminate the the bad looking job. I had to learn that the hard way.
Love the tachometer. I have a 99 ranger xlt 5 speed manual and I only have the speedometer cluster. I want the tach cluster. Been trying to hunt for one that's not for an automatic. It would still work, however, I don't want to be staring at the "PNRD21" when I have a 5 speed. Lol. Good video chrisfix!
Very usefull and important info to know. I am starting to notice that your video are awesome HD and the best angles...appreciate your time to do excellent video(s). Shows how much you appreciate your fans.
LinuxGuru RHEL Pereira Thanks a lot! I do my best to make the best videos possible so I really appreciate it when subscribers point stuff out like this!
Chris, goot has a soldering iron that is low power to work un almost any electronic project, 20-30W and a second power rating up to 60 (or 100 ... dont remember LOL sorry) pushing a button. This feature is very nice, it warms up even more and the extra power is great to aid soldering big surfaces. Heat tend to disipate, so when you get big things like this wires. I like the one I told you because is perfect for both uses. Only limitation is you cant push the button for long. This added power is to do quick jobs. But I used it long enough and its safe an reliable. Dont know the model exactly, but is a gun type soldering iron with a push button. The brand is not expensive and their product are good. Another help is, using some soldering flux, tey sell in spray, liquid and even in a pen. Many metal are a bit reluctant to get soldered. They put fight. Flux really helps on that scenarios, even on not-so-clean surfaces. Sorry for the long post LOL, but I think the wiring gave you a bit of fight, more power would make the difference. Like you vid. Cheers.
38911bytefree Thanks a lot for the tips man! I really appreciate it! I am searching for a better soldering iron. I am going to use all of these tips so I appreciate it!
wish i would have seen this earlier. my car had the same problem and i couldn't figure it out took it to 3 different mechanics and the last one changed the whole ignition motor costed a lot. It works now but this seems like a more easy and cheap way.
Really enjoy the video wish I could have come across it a week ago After my truck died and it ended me to fusible link coresite and it taking it to the shop because I didn't know what was wrong or even where to start looking
The FL is usually tinned copper high stranding wire with a Hypalon (high temp, will not catch fire) insulating jacket. An blown FL will have a rippled and distorted look to the jacket (insulation). Although, as seen in the video, the failure mode is more often corrosion than an internally shorted Alternator. I prefer to use round barrel step down butt splices (hydraulic crimp) with Red dual wall heat shrink when repairing FLs. I do not solder fusible links. One of the many reasons is, for a large wire gauge splice like in the video, is the amount of heat needed to solder the joint correctly can actually over temp the FL jacket which will make it look like it experienced and overload (over temp) condition, because this is how you identify an overloaded FL. So, to avoid this, it is best to use a barrel butt splice connection(s).
Really appreciated this short to the point video about something I was not aware of....although I had heard the phrase "fusible link" before. Thank you mucho. Tomorrow, I have to install a lift motor for the driver's side window on my 1992 dually 1-ton 460 4x4 Ford.
xraydelta100 Great! I am glad you learned something new! That is the goal! Good luck installing the lift motor! Do you have to drill out rivets or is it bolted in?
Fusible links rock! I would've fried my 2000 Jetta's electrical system if it weren't for them. I was in a hurry to get the car back together after rebuilding the starter, and connected the battery backwards without even looking at the battery posts. There were sparks and the cooling fans came on and the horn sounded. I felt like the biggest idiot in the world. Radio went out, car started misfiring, battery and engine light came on, and sunroof or windows wouldn't work. I thought I was screwed for sure and needed a new ECU. Then I looked in my fuse box and find 4/6 fusible links are blown. Popped by my VW dealer and purchased 10 for under $15. After that, the car was perfect. My ass was saved that day!
hey bud you the man you helped me out so much on this video i have a 1998 jeep grand cheokee and I have been looking for the something like this got about 2 years now with my jeep I saw this video and you bet you fixed my problem so from the bottom to the top of my hart thank you thank you I have taken my jeep to 5 shop and they couldn't find the problem I was about to give up on it lol thanks again and keep the awesome help comin thanks
Good vid. Another way to attach the wires you should look into is called a "linemans splice". one thing it helps with is the pull on the wire that it may get. Might be over kill for most things, but works really well and have never had a problem.
Flux before you solder it will help a ton when you see the solder (wick),like the capillary action of water into a paper towel, into the wires its working.
04:50 If you solder like this in the fusible link, in the case of a short, the solder will blow and not the fusible link. Very bad Solder Job (Cold Solder) you need a powerful soldering iron.
Excellent advice and demonstration. I only wish that more cars came with an actual junction box for these links. As without them? A car's area under the hood just looks like a jumble of wires. Yours is okay ChrisFix. Because all the links attach right next to the battery. Can't miss seeing them. And yet on other cars? It's anyone's f-ing guess WTF the links are. The besrt system I've ever seen was on my then-wife's Japanese car, an '86 Isuzu. The three links were all in a professionally installed box. Like the ''Three Little Pigs'' all in a row. Couldn't miss them.
+ChrisFix hey Chris my car wouldn't crank earlier today but when I tried about an hour later it crunk right up, does that sound like a fusable link problem
Chris, this is kinda hard for me to say but I'll go ahead and say. Im 62 years old and have been working on cars for years and I always learn a lot when I watch youre videos. Please keep showing us how its done. thanks a lot
No wonder so many people subscribe -- you explain your reasons for replacing items, their purpose, and even do a bit of educating. You work safely as well. Thank you for this video.
Thanks a lot!
Dude, thank you so much for this! I was having a charging issue with my '03 Ranger. Alternator and battery were both good, had continuity through all the wires that I checked, and I was stumped. Then I saw you showing your speedometer bouncing and remembered I had the same thing happen to me when my issue started. Cut open the fusible link and low and behold, the 18 gauge wire was completely corroded off of the alternator wire. Reconnected it and my charging issue was solved. Thanks again!
Oh man I was looking for this exact problem and didn't know how to describe it. Thanks a lot. Blessed youtube algorithm.
Glad the video was helpful!
Chris out here replying to comments on a 4 year old video. Great guy 👍
@@Astronaut50JL Ikr it was unexpected haha
A fellow Datsun fan, this seems to be the problem with mine, and a broken resistor in my ignition transistor module
@@Astronaut50JL Yeah man
I liked this video a lot because of your soldering job. I need to fix my compass/ thermometer on my truck and have been afraid to do so but after seeing this video, I can see that it doesn't have to be picture perfect for it to work. Thank you!
Might be 5 years since you posted your comment, but I'll just drop a tip in for those wanting to solder for connections. The one Chris did is known as a cold solder joint which is when the iron and wires aren't hot enough, that's an example of what you don't want. The solder joint you're looking for is like the pic Chris showed which is when you get the wires hot enough for the solder to wick into the strands efficiently. Also remember to tin the tip of your iron to allow heat to transfer more easily and dab a bit of soldering flux onto the wires for easier soldering. Don't be afraid to have your iron hot too because using a hot iron allows you to get the job done quicker.
Kudos for giving proper soldering technique. One additional tip that will help is to first add some solder directly to the iron to create more contact area for the heat to transfer through. It also might help to add some flux to help the solder to properly bond.
Thanks for the tip!
Thanks! I had no idea what those cables did, today my mechanic said they needed replacement, it's an 83 Subaru Leone, so you could imagine how bad they can get, and I had the same issues you mentioned but couldn't find the cause.
Man your like a scalpel when you explain different things you more than enough information to satisfy me instead of just enough info. Thank you for your service Brother
Protip to anyone trying this: Melt a little solder on the tip of your iron before heating up the wire with it. Having a wet (tinned id the term) tip on the iron transfers the heat better!
thank you 😊
You’re so helpful!! I know jack about cars and I’m too broke to take issues like this to a shop. I’ve taken care of every issue I’ve had myself by watching your videos. This information guide will be used next, for me and my ‘94 explorer. Thank you!
I'm glad the videos have been helpful! Thanks a lot!
Just a quickie here. I add small, chopped pieces of hot glue stick inside the shrink tube. When you heat up the shrink tube, the glue melts and seals the connection.
Jammit Timmaj I really like that idea! Good one bud! Thanks for the tip!
Marine Shrink Tube. Never buy anything else lol.
And hey Chris Harbor Freight sells it :p
also there are preglued shrink tubes and when you heat them the glue melts
@@roccocroce hahah got like a whole yard of those tubes for 50 cents
nice trick! i had to note that one. Check out my car PC if you would.
This might be the exact issue for my 2004 Ford Expedition Eddie Bauer. Your description of how the car acts with the fusible link disengaged, is exactly what I'm experiencing. Thanks Chris Fix. I'll let you know if it works out!
Let me know how that goes!
How did it go
@theysrone, (patiently waiting for 2 years) was the job that much more intense than previously believed??
Er mer gerd, my Electrical Engineer is dying on the inside seeing a soldering job like that. You needed a hotter iron to make it work better. I really like those butane soldering irons for jobs like this.
I cried when he said it was done properly
He referred to a picture of one that looked prettier, but bear in mind how most mechanics use cheater clips and electric tape instead of solder.
A part of me died when I heard that... LOL. W T F.
Oh thank god I'm not the only one lol x)
Stellar Moig uh
This is a great video. I like it because my 84 Toyota FJ60 has a three wire fusible link that uses male & female spadeblade connectors to join the regular wires with the fusible link wire. Each junction is protected by a plastic housing that is very hard to take apart and remove the connectors from. You can buy a new fusible link but it costs $35 to $60. Also, if you still have a short somewhere it is possible the brand new fusible link will burn up again. I like the idea of just buying 10 ft of each gauge of fusible link wire that you need and fixing it yourself. Be sure to cut the lengths of each fusible link wire to match the oem length. Also use a conversion chart when you have Japanese fusible link wire measured in square mm (cross sectional area) but you are buying 18 or 20 gauge wire. It may also be important to keep each wire from touching the other using fire retardant cable sleeves.
Pro tip: Use flux to remove oxidation so the solder can move inside and make a good solder
Thanks a lot for the tip! Check it out: ruclips.net/video/Zu3TYBs65FM/видео.html
Stole the words right out of my mouth. And also use marine heat shrink for outside applications (underhood). They also make special clear heat shrinking wraps with solder in the middle for a perfect seal and mate these days.
Pro tip 2: if you have a mini torch that works better for solder.
Q
Make sure the flux is for electrical wiring. You don’t want the highly active acid containing flux eating your wiring up after you’re finished with a nice repair job.
I need you in my lifetime you're the reason I work and fix whatever I can but I also know when to leave it to the pros. Very thorough and don't listen to anyone else's opinions on how soldering looks. If it is bonded together WHO CARES? I THINK YOU DID AN AMAZING JOB
Trick on soldering: put a bit of solder on your tip. This will increase the surface area of contact with the iron, transfering more heat to the wire. Also, you do not need to actually go on the opposite side of the wire, but put solder anywhere on the wire. That mean you can get closer to the iron where it will be hotter, then move to the opposite. The idea is that the solder contain flux in the middle. Think of it as a solder tube filled with flux. The flux is a cleaner and will melt at a slightly lower temperature than the solder itself. You want it to flow on the wire, not on the iron. Since normally you solder small wire, heating on one side and soldering on the other is the best way to do it, however it can become difficult on big wire... As the wire get filled with solder it get easier to add more solder... The strands barelly touch the other, so barelly transfert heat. The more solder, the more contact, the more heat it can transfert...
thephantom1492 Thanks a lot for the tips! This makes a lot of sense! I will have to try it out. Thanks again bud!
Thanks for taking the time to share these tips.
I've always hated to solder, but it's the only safe way to put two pieces of wiring together without risking to cause a fire in a long term. Great video Chris!
David Miranda I am so bad at soldering. It seems so easy but for some reason, I can never get it hot enough. That is why I went out and got the lead solder. Thanks bud!
ChrisFix David Miranda It's all in the tip, so to speak. :-)
Having the right soldering tool, the correct HEAT (biggest reason for success/failure) and patience is the make/break line. However, there are some fantastic solderless connectors on the market that are also waterproof (definitely for underbody and trailering needs) so you DO have options.
***** ChrisFix I've never heard from them... Could you leave us a link to see what you mean? They sound really helpful to use in places where is just too difficult to solder. Thanks!
David Miranda There are many connectors on the market. I'm familiar with this brand: www.molex.com/molex/products/family?key=heat_sealable_terminals&channel . You can find online and even in the big box stores, just depends on your needs. Good luck with your future projects.
nice! that's a great tip, right there. I try to avoid solder as much as I can, and I think those connectors are definitely a great option. Thanks a lot *****!!
Chris, I would first like to say thank you, this was incredibly helpful. I was wondering why you disconnect the negative ground instead of the positive ground?
Because the electrons flow from the negative to positive. So if you remove the negative it stops all flow.
If you remove the positive first, when you rotate the wrench you could cause a spark if the end of the wrench touches anything metal. Once the negative pole is removed, that risk disappears. With new cars, that sudden discharge could damage sensitive electronics or blow fuses. Because the negative pole of the battery is directly connected to the chassis, touching your wrench to any metal will not cause a spark when you remove the negative pole first.
@@spelunkerd Exactly. Other than the risk of shorting your wrench on something, electrically it doesn't matter which cable you disconnect prior to making repairs. The direction of electron flow is completely irrelevant here since a complete circuit is required for anything to happen and the circuit can't be complete with either cable disconnected.
I've been repairing my own vehicles for around 4-5 years now, learninig from RUclips videos like yours, and I've probably had up to 3 vehicles with this problem. I'm glad you made this, gonna check my Ford Escort to see if this is its issue...hopefully it is.
Man, your video quality is getting better and better. I could see tiny dust articles flying when you were cutting the wires@3.01. Excellent, excellent video man, always good to know these things just in-case the car won't start and I gotta hurry out of a lady's driveway early in the morning...hahaha
Seriously, this is excellent information to check on a vehicle that won't start. Thank you ChrisFix.
Lucksh Y Thanks a lot man! I am doing my best to get better each video! Haha, that would definitely be when your car wont start haha
Lucksh Y Ha Ha
You have helped me solve an issue with my 1994 f250 5.8l. Tried many other ideas and tests, but yours was the correct one.
As an electrical engineer (part time), that method of soldering is a bit rough! You just need to work on the soldering, it shouldn't look like a bubble of solder around the wire, the wires should look like they're turned silver and bonded like weld. The rest is amazing, keep up the good work! Oh and use flux to make it easier!
Yes definitely use a rosin core solder! Plain no flux solder can get you into trouble if the solder doesn't flow.
I just saw your comment after I posted about the soldering job. I agree 100% sir.
Chris good soldering job just a quick tip. Im a plumber and when we solder copper piping we have to make sure the copper pipe is cleaned (using abrasive cloth/sandpaper) If you want the solder to stick better try cleaning the wire with the cloth to get the debris off. Solder will only stick properly on clean metal.
Use flux it will make it flow through much better.
+Stephen Robinson Thanks a lot for the tip!
+ChrisFix , flux is acid and corrodes the wires in no time
+Nikolai Tsakov you're so misinformed it hurts, you're supposed to use flux while soldering anything
Jordan Muratori lol never had corrosion but eh what do I know.
+Nikolai Tsakov Acid flux is used for soldering mechanical parts other than wire and electrical components - when you can wash the flux away. There is also non-acid flux that is used for electrical wires and components. It will not corrode the wires because it was designed for soldering wires without leaving corrosive residue.
This video just made my life a whole lot easier, I didn't realize the fusible links would cause that but great. Now I know how to fix my truck.
Chris, I enjoy your videos and learn tips that save me a lot of time. Thank you for sharing your knowledge!
This video was absolutely vital for me , thanks! I could hardly find any other information on my old Dodge fusible links.
Glad it helped
Soldering is easier if you let the metal get really hot that the solder melts quickly. Just don't disconnect the iron from the metal until that solder melts easily and all the way through.
I like the pic of a good soldering job. makes me feel more confident in the jobs I've done in the past...they look just like that pic...hard to know if you did something right without knowing what its "supposed" to look like.
F!@#Guilt Yea, my solder was barely melting though because the iron was not strong enough. I also needed to use some flux.
ChrisFix m
ChrisFix op
I leaned about fusable links the hard way in 1995 with my then girlfriends Jetta. I wish I had this video back then, good work Chris!
Thanks Joshua! Yea learning the hard way isnt fun most of the time haha.
No homo but I love the way you say water.
tristan gore hahahaha
Wutter*
*wooder
He's from New Jersey, that's how we say water here 😅
do you guys all say "be-cuss" and "elegtizity"?
Young fellow is a good mechanic. Keep up good work. Good job.
Good info but wouldn't it be easier just to put a fuse block and move up in the technology
nope. because the time that fusible link breaks it is bigger, the fuse pop faster.
Thank You for this video, I'm learning to work in my own vehicles and your videos a great help.
Right now I'm trying to get my'85 Bronco 2 to run. I think this maybe what my issue is... Fingers crossed
Good luck!
Always a good idea to coat your solder connections with dielectric grease before covering with heat shrink tube for added protection against corrosion
He's right that's what the professional low voltage technicians do when installing RRU racks on cellular antenna towers
i have to say thank you so much. i have a 91 camaro that is currently doing the same thing. i just found a blown link today, and have been experiencing many issues like this recently. have not yet got to working on it but will do so shortly
Not all heat shrink is waterproof to 100%
Buy the best goo should come out if it's good quality.
I'm not afraid to solder. I am an electronics technician but I think in this case would have used some insulated butt splices. If you do them right (with the correct tools) you won't have any issues. Your splices would need some HD heat shrink or maybe a few layers of heat shrink. A stray wire can poke right through the shrink and short out. Also if any shorts on the battery side, there is nothing to limit the current---POOF! Blessings, John 20:29
johntracey523 Haha thanks man! I was taught to never butt splice fusible links but you would know better than me!
hi chris, I have the same problem with my 1989 toyota, but I couldn't see the Gage # of the old fusible link, so let put a 8 gage#, should I put a 12gage instead of 8 is working good so far,thank you, like all yours videos, cheers
I just wanted to say thank you. My dad was looking for the fusable links on my car and everywhere we looked online we couldn't find it. I showed him this video and he found it immediately! seriously thanks
You are the best man
Nice video, but let me suggest that you need to get a little higher wattage soldering iron or gun. 100W will work fine. Then, you don't need to spend a lot of time heating the joint. Higher wattage will heat up the joint fast and the solder will flow better. The solder in the video almost looks like some of the cold solder joints we see on electrical equipment . A cold joint is when the solder didn't flow into the nooks and voids between the wires. Keep in mind that a solder joint is first a mechanical connection as shown in this video. Good contact, twisted. The solder will fill in the voids.
We all have seen attempts of guys melting blobs of solder to join the wires. Solder isn't the #1 thing holding the wires together, it's the mechanical connection first.
Not knocking the channel of video, you are great and have helped me and my friends many times. Take care.
I think a little bit or rosin flux on your wires would make that solder flow a lot easier.
Peter Carlson Thanks for the tip! I was wondering why the flow was so bad lol
ChrisFix when you solder larger thicker wires the heat tends to oxidize the outer exposed wires and the solder, even rosin core solder tends to bead up and fall off without sticking or flowing despite the temperature of the copper being at or above the melting point of solder.
Peter Carlson Good to know! So you really need to use flux then!
ChrisFix yes, mostly with larger wires. The rosin core solder does ok for the smaller stuff by itself most of the time. What gets people sometimes is when they melt the solder on the iron and blob it onto a cold joint the rosin from within the solder makes it flow better and "solder easier" albeit incorrectly with a good chance of a cold joint. I just take the wires and roll them around in a little container of flux I used to get at radio shack, the stuff looks like a mix between jello and earwax.
Peter Carlson I have flux for silver soldering copper pipes. Is that the same stuff?
peanut gallery always got something to say. 9/10 of them couldn't do as good a job as you did, my friend. A+
So your connections are water tight but are they SOAPY WOODER-tight?
DIDN'T THINK SO!
:o
I love how you are slowly but very nicely fixing your car :)
***** Thanks! Every fix makes it that much better! I am excited to start doing some projects like a light bar install!
ChrisFix I went thru this by myself with my first car which my friends call garbage but i loved it back then i learned a lot by that its also quite good and satisfying feeling to fix your car by yourself :) One of my friends why is now making fun of that old car just bough his first car few years ago, and he is in his late 20s. Its true that his first car(lancer x) is much better then the Nissan sunny i had when i was 19, but he is unable to do a simplest job on his car and is always asking me for advises :D Also its quite funny that somebody who drives family sedan have the guts to call car guys first car a garbage. Anyway since then a lot of time passed and as a car guy i drive Civic Type R Euro :) so far the best car i had :)
And about your projects what i learned so far with cars is that if you are really not going for some hiend mods with very expensive parts usually you will mess up the car, the way how the were build is above the cheap mods.
Please dont rice out your car:)
Exactly man! Dont worry, I wont rice out any car of mine.
I had a Mazda, they are good vehicles.
Yeah but that truck isnt a mazda it's just antes old rebranded Ford Ranger
XxmatixX - 6 videos diarios de nada :v no shit
I own a 1980 Rx7 and one them sum bitches broke I made one out of an old oscillating fan and now my tach jumps around when it's running if it decided it wants to run that day
Thanks so much, I have an old t-bird that's been sitting in the yard because I didn't know what was wrong with it. I've been watching your videos over the past few days just trying to learn stuff, and this video was exactly what was wrong with it.
mop10000 Awesome! I am glad the video was helpful! Let me know how the repair goes!
are these on newer cars too or did they stop putting these in and replace them with fuses that you plug in?
WCGwkf They are on some newer cars today as well. Fusible links are different than normal fuses because they can withstand a high amp load for an extended period of time compared to a regular fuse that burns right away.
WCGwkf yeah, i have never seen one of these before.
Most newer cars put fuse boxes and regular fuses since they are easier to fix when you take it to them and cost about the same to manufacture
It's an old video, but I just watched it and learned about something I never knew existed. Now I'm going to go look for these on my cars. Nice work as always @ChrisFix.
When I saw the vid on my feed I thought it was another April fools joke lol
Going to use this info to investigate electrical problems on my truck. I've been having weird Christine crap going on for 12 months now. Replaced the ECM, alternator, battery, the big amp fuse off of the battery, and here I am back at square one almost a year to the date.
hey Chris ,hi u? I could use a little help with my 2001 Dodge Neon 4 cylinder. so the car never gave a bit of problem never had a problem starting never cut off. so and driving last night and hit a railroad track pretty hard and the car just shut off. I attempted to start it back after pulling off to the side safely. when I turn the key in ignition the lights in the dashboard light up but the car won't start nor does it say anything. battery is brand new great connectors on top horn blows strong lights come on. I don't really have access to testers and things like that. I thought it might be the starter however upon turning the key to anything happens as the lights on the dashboard light up no sounds what so ever. Any suggestions will be helpful. Thanks
mr ok Sounds like your starter might be dead.
You may be correct I'm going to get up in the early morning and do a more thorough check I will begin with the starter wires and things that lead power to those areas. Thank you for getting back to me I value your videos and your advice.
Omg! I have been having the problem with my blazer-I had no idea this was the problem. Thanks Chris!
you did not bother to explain why it changes the speedometer
that would be called an electrical gremlin.
Hello guy from 3 years ago, the speedo works on resistance as most sensors do. The bad link is introducing resistance where other wise it should be 0 at stop. The lower current is interpreted by the speedometer as movement.
You've taught me sooo much. and I've turned around and fixed sooo many people's cars and then they ask how I learned and I say there's this awesome guy on youtube giving out lessons for free on this shit and they're like nah way! thats cool. thanks for fixing my shit. see ya!
That’s awesome! Glad you are learning a lot!
My lights started flickering on and off my gages started acting crazy and my Radio on and off by the firewall i found a wire Thats link into 2 wires burnt feels stretched i have 79 blazer going to fix that wire hopefull thats the problem
Nice job finding the problem
@@chrisfix the wire was burnt but wasn't the problem was ground straps she up and running like a beast couldn't believe would cause the lights to stay on and all the gauges to work and Radio
Very helpful. I have not found the fusible link on my 2001 Impala yet, but now I know what I am looking for, and how to fix it.
Rick Sellers Awesome! I am glad the video was helpful!
Dat battery spark :O
yeah, arcs like that make me nervous.
Fantastic video! You have a serious talent at this. Keep it up!
Does this Mazda really has that many problems or you're just causing them yourself for the sake of demonstration?
***** When I got the truck it was a mess. I am not causing problems lol. This was a fixer-upper.
ChrisFix
Haha, cool. I would lose my mind if that many little things broke down so often in my car.
***** Yea, when you buy a car/truck that is a fixer-upper, you expect it. It is good for my channel haha
Piotr Noja it's a ford ranger rebadged.
You know a lot about fixing cars. Thanks for the videos. When you are soldering, like you say, keep the heat on the wires and not the solder... but you’d do better to keep your heat on the wires after your solder melts. That way it wicks up under the insulation and the joint is 100x stronger at least... lots of flux helps.
Building a few hundred nav harnesses for jet aircraft helps too. Haha 5 miles of wire in an airplane bro.
Your lucky your truck is always broken down or you wouldn't have anything to make videos on lol....must be a ford made truck 😛
lmao ... Built Ford "tough" ....figures XD
It's a damn Mazda b3000 basically a copy of a ford ranger
It's a Ford Ranger/Mazda B3000
lol you guessed it its a ford
ChromeGunner86 my
Excellent video. I am smarter than I was prior to watching this. This is what I was looking for when I hit the search. 😁 thanks.
+Steve “venomous” Rodeheaver Awesome Steve! Glad you learned something new! That is the goal with all of my videos!
Just thought to mention in case no one else did. I have done a lot of soldering. Solder has a flux core, but it is best to put solder on the connection as well. It will eliminate the the bad looking job. I had to learn that the hard way.
I learned a lot from this channel and it’s comments
The close caption sometimes interferes with the video. Great video. Question, would cleaning the connections with baking soda help?
I love you Chris. Thank you God for Chris Fix
This was well explained and filmed and edited
Love the tachometer. I have a 99 ranger xlt 5 speed manual and I only have the speedometer cluster. I want the tach cluster. Been trying to hunt for one that's not for an automatic. It would still work, however, I don't want to be staring at the "PNRD21" when I have a 5 speed. Lol. Good video chrisfix!
James Falvey Haha, you dont even notice the PNRD21 when you drive but I feel ya! Good luck with the search!
Thanks for the vid. Car wouldn’t start so I jiggled the fusible link and it started, so at least I know where the problem lies.
Very usefull and important info to know. I am starting to notice that your video are awesome HD and the best angles...appreciate your time to do excellent video(s). Shows how much you appreciate your fans.
LinuxGuru RHEL Pereira Thanks a lot! I do my best to make the best videos possible so I really appreciate it when subscribers point stuff out like this!
Chris, goot has a soldering iron that is low power to work un almost any electronic project, 20-30W and a second power rating up to 60 (or 100 ... dont remember LOL sorry) pushing a button. This feature is very nice, it warms up even more and the extra power is great to aid soldering big surfaces. Heat tend to disipate, so when you get big things like this wires. I like the one I told you because is perfect for both uses. Only limitation is you cant push the button for long. This added power is to do quick jobs. But I used it long enough and its safe an reliable. Dont know the model exactly, but is a gun type soldering iron with a push button. The brand is not expensive and their product are good.
Another help is, using some soldering flux, tey sell in spray, liquid and even in a pen. Many metal are a bit reluctant to get soldered. They put fight. Flux really helps on that scenarios, even on not-so-clean surfaces. Sorry for the long post LOL, but I think the wiring gave you a bit of fight, more power would make the difference. Like you vid. Cheers.
38911bytefree Thanks a lot for the tips man! I really appreciate it! I am searching for a better soldering iron. I am going to use all of these tips so I appreciate it!
Thanks @chrisfix. Your quick video just saved me a pile of frustration
Thanks for posting this video. I've been having this issue on my ranger for awhile and couldn't figure it out (not an electrical guy.)
Rice Hunters No problem! Glad the video was helpful! Check the alternator too. That is why my fusible links were going bad.
wish i would have seen this earlier. my car had the same problem and i couldn't figure it out took it to 3 different mechanics and the last one changed the whole ignition motor costed a lot. It works now but this seems like a more easy and cheap way.
Very nice, concise illustration!! :)
Thanks a lot Tony!
Very cool. I prefer fusible link wire my self. Just wondering why there were three wire involved with different awg sizes? Thanks much.
Really enjoy the video wish I could have come across it a week ago
After my truck died and it ended me to fusible link coresite and it taking it to the shop because I didn't know what was wrong or even where to start looking
The FL is usually tinned copper high stranding wire with a Hypalon (high temp, will not catch fire) insulating jacket. An blown FL will have a rippled and distorted look to the jacket (insulation). Although, as seen in the video, the failure mode is more often corrosion than an internally shorted Alternator.
I prefer to use round barrel step down butt splices (hydraulic crimp) with Red dual wall heat shrink when repairing FLs. I do not solder fusible links. One of the many reasons is, for a large wire gauge splice like in the video, is the amount of heat needed to solder the joint correctly can actually over temp the FL jacket which will make it look like it experienced and overload (over temp) condition, because this is how you identify an overloaded FL. So, to avoid this, it is best to use a barrel butt splice connection(s).
My 02 ranger is doing the same thing! I found smaller wire has cracked and missing sheath time to replace thank you chris for the video!
Really appreciated this short to the point video about something I was not aware of....although I had heard the phrase "fusible link" before. Thank you mucho. Tomorrow, I have to install a lift motor for the driver's side window on my 1992 dually 1-ton
460 4x4 Ford.
xraydelta100 Great! I am glad you learned something new! That is the goal! Good luck installing the lift motor! Do you have to drill out rivets or is it bolted in?
That truck has to praise Chris as a god (because how much stuff Chris had done to it)!
nice video...so informative.....and thanx to show how to solder two wires in a proper way.....
Rohan Bhoye Thanks man!
terrific info, Thanks!
Fusible links rock! I would've fried my 2000 Jetta's electrical system if it weren't for them. I was in a hurry to get the car back together after rebuilding the starter, and connected the battery backwards without even looking at the battery posts. There were sparks and the cooling fans came on and the horn sounded. I felt like the biggest idiot in the world. Radio went out, car started misfiring, battery and engine light came on, and sunroof or windows wouldn't work. I thought I was screwed for sure and needed a new ECU. Then I looked in my fuse box and find 4/6 fusible links are blown. Popped by my VW dealer and purchased 10 for under $15. After that, the car was perfect. My ass was saved that day!
Brandon Friesen AWESOME! Yea, they did their job! That is good because imagine if it was the ECU! Thanks for sharing your story!
hey bud you the man you helped me out so much on this video i have a 1998 jeep grand cheokee and I have been looking for the something like this got about 2 years now with my jeep I saw this video and you bet you fixed my problem so from the bottom to the top of my hart thank you thank you I have taken my jeep to 5 shop and they couldn't find the problem I was about to give up on it lol thanks again and keep the awesome help comin thanks
+kenny nichols that's awesome and I"m glad the video was helpful!
I learn so much from your videos! Very educational!
Jeffrey B Awesome! That is what I like to hear!
Good vid. Another way to attach the wires you should look into is called a "linemans splice". one thing it helps with is the pull on the wire that it may get. Might be over kill for most things, but works really well and have never had a problem.
Mitch Martin Thanks for the tip Mitch! I am always game for learning new things! I will have to look it up! Thanks again!
Rodent ate my link..92 corvette...after replacement by my mechanic. .car started right up and running fine...!!!
but you good fellas has explane how soldering is done so I did read and understood on how it's done thank you al 🙏
Great vid! But who else saw those sparks from the negative terminal when he connected them back??
DTGxBadBoy That is because the door was open so there was draw on the battery from the interior lights.
Great tutorial man, well done
Flux before you solder it will help a ton when you see the solder (wick),like the capillary action of water into a paper towel, into the wires its working.
witnesszer0 Thanks for the tip! I will have to get some flux!
Hello Chris,
I recently subscribed to your channel, great content by the way. I noticed your truck has been a canvas for most of your videos.
04:50 If you solder like this in the fusible link, in the case of a short, the solder will blow and not the fusible link. Very bad Solder Job (Cold Solder) you need a powerful soldering iron.
The second image is good.
Excellent advice and demonstration.
I only wish that more cars came with an actual junction box for these links. As without them? A car's area under the hood just looks like a jumble of wires.
Yours is okay ChrisFix. Because all the links attach right next to the battery. Can't miss seeing them. And yet on other cars? It's anyone's f-ing guess WTF the links are.
The besrt system I've ever seen was on my then-wife's Japanese car, an '86 Isuzu. The three links were all in a professionally installed box. Like the ''Three Little Pigs'' all in a row. Couldn't miss them.
Super Helpful!! Gonna check it out this weekend!! Thanx Chris for the amazing vids!!
+Jaime Mendiola Good luck! Keep me posted!
Thanks Chris!
+ChrisFix hey Chris my car wouldn't crank earlier today but when I tried about an hour later it crunk right up, does that sound like a fusable link problem
Thanks!
Chrisfix you are a genius! This helped me out alot