Excellent video! This will help people trying to mod all the model 1 Megadrives! Just had someone asking how to set jumpers on VA5/VA6 - I've pointed him to this video!
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods Thanks mate. It's a simple mod but I'd never got around to making it before. People ask me all the time as well for the jumper settings. Thanks for the referral.
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods Thanks GadgetUk164 I want to thank you both as both of you have have great UTUBE videos just really good stuff
Great video and well explained! Would have been nice to have a closer look at the Switch after soldering the cables to it. You know, which cable went where. For idiots like me.
Have watched a few videos on this. Pug Hoof Gaming on RUclips are connecting JP1 Right, JP2 & JP3 Left. And Retro Hawk is connecting JP1 Left, JP3 Left & JP3 Right. Why is there differences for the same mod?
Great vid as usual! You ever do the Dual Frequency Oscillator mod (DFO)?! uses correct PAL and NTSC timing crystals apparently, would love to see the mod done...
I am currently looking to run the other way. I made the switch to the US and EUR regions on my Japanese Mega Drive, in the case of the US region it worked perfectly because here it is already 60Hz, the problem is when it changes to the European region, it is in a resolution, which I particularly found more pleasant, with the more "wide" aspect, but in black and white and "slow motion"
Also I just forgot to say thanks Darren mate for the 'Famicom power supply I got from ur EBAY Store mate I was happy with everything from the fast postage to the excellent quality item so thank you again mate your a champ cheers Saly
Just thought I would add this, I have found on most models that using a Sega 32x console with the mega drive will fix the color issue when switching to 60htz, if your wanting to use composite crappy cables.
If you flick to 60hz on the Fly you will notice some odd things happen in certain games. Sonic as you showed there the gameplay actually went slower. Sonic 3 which is a PAL Optimized 50hz Game if you have the European or Australian copy of the game goes completely messed up if you switch to 60hz on the Fly. I have a workaround for this which involves Sonic 2 and hot swapping the Cart :)
Forgot to also say, if Games don't work right (and aren't region locked) when you switch to 60hz on the Fly, fire up the MD in 60hz mode and all should be fine :)
Dave's Game Room Hey Dave, yep I shouldn't have flicked it over on the fly as sometimes it's fine and others it's buggy like you said. If peeps are reading this, listen to Dave and power off in between changing modes. :)
Yep agreed. I guess my motivation for flicking it over live was to see the difference between the two modes, but I should have been clearer on not doing that for actual game play.
@@RetroSalesAustralia i got two consoles that they are dead by the wrong connecting the language mod. Is there a way to restrore the consoles? Please HELP!!
nice video, the thing you mention at around 11:30 for ENG-JAP switches can actually be done with one single 3 state switch. Most people dont know that if you dont connect any jumpers, the board will treat it as same way as 5V was connected. This means, if none of the jumper are connected, you will get US region! With a single 3 state switch you can then interpret 50hz+ENG (PAL), 60hz+ENG (US), and 60hz+JAP (JAP). However if you prefer to have full control and flexibility over 50-60hz and PAL-JAP selection you are better off installing two switches. I say this because I think some PAL games don't like to get switched from 50hz to 60hz AND ENG to JP region at the same time, but to be honest I haven't fully tested this to say that it does make any difference.. many PAL games will react differently if you switch while turned on. I just find it neat and cleaner that you can actually control all regions with a single switch. By the way: which test monitor are you using and how is it connected?
Hi, good points! I'll give you question of the month for that one! :) Yes you're right, you can simply leave the pins "floating" and they usually default to one state or another which is fine. ...BUT that's a bit of a no no in electronics as sometimes the signals will float around and produce very strange outcomes. TTL logic is 0 and 5v so if you leave a pin floating it could sit anywhere it that range and sometimes screw things up if the level trigger a high or low. I always tie each pin either high 5v or low ground to be 100% sure and rock solid reliability. Two switches does this easily, but once again, you're right it can be done the way you say. I think the Mega drive is happy to behave like that. For my test monitor, I use the Dell U2711 as it's 1440P and accepts three analog inputs. Composite, Component, VGA as well as digital DVI, Display port and HDMI. Read about the TTL logic thresholds here - www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/digital/chpt-3/logic-signal-voltage-levels/
@@RetroSalesAustralia you could place 2 resistors 10K ohms as PullUp 5V. one on JP2 and other one on JP4. This will ensure that when nothing is connected you are in US-NTSC mode. Then use your switch 3 positions On-Off-On then connect the ground on center connector of the switch and each side connectors of the Switch would be JP and PAL. This will ensure that in any case everything is connected to either GND or 5V and nothing is floating. :)
Thanks for the tutorial! One question...I know that with the 60hz/language mod the Composite video is disabled and only RGB works, can you add a composite or s-video output? I like to stream my old consoles playing with thr RGB on my tv and capturing on my PC with the composite or s-video output.
to get full compatibility I'd suggest a language mod aswell. also to get full colour from your Megadrive I'd suggest using an rgb cable be it scart or 9pin depending on what your tv or monitor requires I wouldn't bother changing the crystal.
Hey, it's me again :) thank you for your vids. I was thinking of something: I have a secondary MD unit incoming, and I'd like to mod one of them to 60hz (fixed) while still using composite (because I prefer it for SMS stuff). Do you reckon I could swap out the PAL-specced oscillator for one suitable for the NTSC format? I know I could do the ordinary switching mod while keeping the PAL osci on, but I really don't want to mess with the resistor trace on the mobo, it's too tightly packed with other stuff which I know I'm going to break. Ignorance tells me that the quick and dirty fix would be to outright replace the osci, would that work?
Hey, the short answer is, just use a Genesis console as it's ready to go. The long answer is, you can't just replace the PAL oscillator on the board with an NTSC one as the clock dividers would be all messed up and screw up the other chips. The right way to do it is to use an external PAL oscillator and hard wire it into PIN 6 of the CXA1145. BUT you will still need to lift the pin to disconnect the original clock signal. You'll end up with PAL60 doing it this way, or use an NSTC oscillator and get true NTSC60 (Same as Genesis). I'm planning a new video on this topic very soon as it gets a little more involved as there is really 3 pins to consider on the CXA1145 (5, 6 and 7).
I know this is an old video, but I have a question please. When modding a PAL Mega Drive to output 60hz like this, is the 60hz signal a true NTSC 60hz signal, or is it a PAL 60hz signal? I ask because I have a modded Master System II with a 50/60 switch, and when in 60hz mode it’s outputting a PAL signal still. The speed increases and it goes full screen as you’d expect, but I just don’t think it looks great, when compared to a true NTSC signal from the likes of a Famicom or Super Famicom. I’m using a CRT. Great video by the way, it was really informative and easy to follow, even for a newbie like me.
No it’s not NTSC it’s PAL60 which is pretty good, but not perfect. The timings will always be off by a little as the internal crystal is still set to 4.33Mhz PAL spec.
So if I just wanna make my console run at 60hz, without any interest in adding a switch to flick between 50 and 60, I just need to cut the JP3 line and it should still work?
I made the modification on a Japanese Mega Drive, but when I use PAL 50HZ mode the image is black and white. The crystal is 53.69317MHz. Should I replace it with 53.203424 MHz to solve this problem?
Glenn Poland The red and black wires need to be fully separated from the blue. So ensure the traces linking them are all cut. The switch is the part that rejoins them together, so you never want to leave the traces in place.
It will have the jumpers but in a different location. If you look in the description I actually added this extra guide for VA4 globalgarage.com.au/mod-megadrive-5060hz-va4-revision/
Hmm I thought I won't go back to 50 but I find games easier to play at the slower speed and also the picture stays fully on the screen where with the 60hz it can go partially off screen. Also I find 50hz is sharper than 60hz without using an RGB Scart cable and losing the blended dithering pattern You also have PAL only games like Micro Machines 2 that play too fast on an NTSC console
Lord Rythorn The switch controls the 50 or 60hz speed at the hardware level, so games will play at that speed regardless of where they’re from. If you play a USA Genesis game while it’s set to 60 then it’ll play perfectly. If you try and play it at 50, then it’ll run slow. The only reason to ever use 50hz is for PAL optimised games that were designed to run at full speed at 50. All other scenarios you should run 60hz. This manual control is what is meant by region free.
not all games are optimized for 60hz some games are optimized for 50hz and if you run them on 60hz speed they will be running too fast @@luketaylor9144
In Europe we have 50Hz televisions. The US however, always had 60Hz televisions. Therefore they just couldn't make one console and ship it to both regions. Nowadays monitors easily support 60Hz output here, while TV's don't actually seem to.
Michael Langley You mean our electricity net, probably. Europe has a 230V/50Hz net, while the US has a 110V/60Hz net. This was also an issue before we got switching power supplies.
Good question, but some picky PAL games that are optimised for 50hz need that speed. Also some games or add ons like MegaCD need to see PAL to boot. They can then be switched into 60hz while running. Also, I just like to have control. :)
Thanks for this. I just did this mod following your video and have it working a charm!
This video is really good for people who have no idea for modding a mega drive, by the end of it I had it modded and working perfectly! Thanks!
Excellent video! This will help people trying to mod all the model 1 Megadrives! Just had someone asking how to set jumpers on VA5/VA6 - I've pointed him to this video!
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods Thanks mate. It's a simple mod but I'd never got around to making it before. People ask me all the time as well for the jumper settings. Thanks for the referral.
I am seriously tempted to buy another spare HD Graphics MD and do the "Switchless mod" to it :)
It's fairly easy with a PIC 16F630 and the code here - github.com/sebknzl/saturnmod
GadgetUK164 - Retro Gaming Repairs & Mods
Thanks GadgetUk164 I want to thank you both as both of you have have great UTUBE videos just really good stuff
Gadget is the master, I'm the apprentice.
Please make video of of 50/60 hz mod for composite video output for this console. I like how picture looks on old tv through composhit cable )))
Great video and well explained! Would have been nice to have a closer look at the Switch after soldering the cables to it. You know, which cable went where. For idiots like me.
Have watched a few videos on this. Pug Hoof Gaming on RUclips are connecting JP1 Right, JP2 & JP3 Left. And Retro Hawk is connecting JP1 Left, JP3 Left & JP3 Right. Why is there differences for the same mod?
Great video. Thank you.
Great video as usual. Could you do a video on the switchless mod on a model 2 mega drive? Thanks! Keep the content coming!!
Great vid as usual! You ever do the Dual Frequency Oscillator mod (DFO)?! uses correct PAL and NTSC timing crystals apparently, would love to see the mod done...
I am currently looking to run the other way. I made the switch to the US and EUR regions on my Japanese Mega Drive, in the case of the US region it worked perfectly because here it is already 60Hz, the problem is when it changes to the European region, it is in a resolution, which I particularly found more pleasant, with the more "wide" aspect, but in black and white and "slow motion"
Also I just forgot to say thanks Darren mate for the 'Famicom power supply I got from ur EBAY Store mate I was happy with everything from the fast postage to the excellent quality item so thank you again mate your a champ cheers
Saly
No worries. Glad your Famicom is up and running off local power!
Just thought I would add this, I have found on most models that using a Sega 32x console with the mega drive will fix the color issue when switching to 60htz, if your wanting to use composite crappy cables.
If you flick to 60hz on the Fly you will notice some odd things happen in certain games. Sonic as you showed there the gameplay actually went slower. Sonic 3 which is a PAL Optimized 50hz Game if you have the European or Australian copy of the game goes completely messed up if you switch to 60hz on the Fly. I have a workaround for this which involves Sonic 2 and hot swapping the Cart :)
Forgot to also say, if Games don't work right (and aren't region locked) when you switch to 60hz on the Fly, fire up the MD in 60hz mode and all should be fine :)
Dave's Game Room Hey Dave, yep I shouldn't have flicked it over on the fly as sometimes it's fine and others it's buggy like you said. If peeps are reading this, listen to Dave and power off in between changing modes. :)
Yep agreed. I guess my motivation for flicking it over live was to see the difference between the two modes, but I should have been clearer on not doing that for actual game play.
@@RetroSalesAustralia i got two consoles that they are dead by the wrong connecting the language mod. Is there a way to restrore the consoles? Please HELP!!
14:30 Pro Tip: it's important to solder above delicate circuit boards for extra thrill and danger.
Unless you're the kind to feed an entire blob of solder to your wires risking a drip, there is no danger.
nice video, the thing you mention at around 11:30 for ENG-JAP switches can actually be done with one single 3 state switch. Most people dont know that if you dont connect any jumpers, the board will treat it as same way as 5V was connected. This means, if none of the jumper are connected, you will get US region!
With a single 3 state switch you can then interpret 50hz+ENG (PAL), 60hz+ENG (US), and 60hz+JAP (JAP).
However if you prefer to have full control and flexibility over 50-60hz and PAL-JAP selection you are better off installing two switches. I say this because I think some PAL games don't like to get switched from 50hz to 60hz AND ENG to JP region at the same time, but to be honest I haven't fully tested this to say that it does make any difference.. many PAL games will react differently if you switch while turned on.
I just find it neat and cleaner that you can actually control all regions with a single switch.
By the way: which test monitor are you using and how is it connected?
Hi, good points! I'll give you question of the month for that one! :) Yes you're right, you can simply leave the pins "floating" and they usually default to one state or another which is fine. ...BUT that's a bit of a no no in electronics as sometimes the signals will float around and produce very strange outcomes. TTL logic is 0 and 5v so if you leave a pin floating it could sit anywhere it that range and sometimes screw things up if the level trigger a high or low. I always tie each pin either high 5v or low ground to be 100% sure and rock solid reliability. Two switches does this easily, but once again, you're right it can be done the way you say. I think the Mega drive is happy to behave like that. For my test monitor, I use the Dell U2711 as it's 1440P and accepts three analog inputs. Composite, Component, VGA as well as digital DVI, Display port and HDMI. Read about the TTL logic thresholds here - www.allaboutcircuits.com/textbook/digital/chpt-3/logic-signal-voltage-levels/
Thanks for the response, ahh that is interesting indeed, always good to learn new things :)
@@RetroSalesAustralia you could place 2 resistors 10K ohms as PullUp 5V. one on JP2 and other one on JP4. This will ensure that when nothing is connected you are in US-NTSC mode. Then use your switch 3 positions On-Off-On then connect the ground on center connector of the switch and each side connectors of the Switch would be JP and PAL. This will ensure that in any case everything is connected to either GND or 5V and nothing is floating. :)
Excellent video!!!! very useful.
thanks Zatoichi
Thanks for the tutorial! One question...I know that with the 60hz/language mod the Composite video is disabled and only RGB works, can you add a composite or s-video output? I like to stream my old consoles playing with thr RGB on my tv and capturing on my PC with the composite or s-video output.
Can I use a 8pin to rca cable instead of the scart one and still keep the image steady (without messing the colours)?
to get full compatibility I'd suggest a language mod aswell. also to get full colour from your Megadrive I'd suggest using an rgb cable be it scart or 9pin depending on what your tv or monitor requires I wouldn't bother changing the crystal.
Do you guys offer this mod as a service?
How do I like make my md to ntsc on the webside? (Sorry I’m Swedish)
For importing region locked games do you just need to do the 50/60hz or do you need to do the language mod as well.
You need to do a Region free modification to the console.
great video plz keepup ,cheers mate
Hey, it's me again :) thank you for your vids. I was thinking of something: I have a secondary MD unit incoming, and I'd like to mod one of them to 60hz (fixed) while still using composite (because I prefer it for SMS stuff). Do you reckon I could swap out the PAL-specced oscillator for one suitable for the NTSC format? I know I could do the ordinary switching mod while keeping the PAL osci on, but I really don't want to mess with the resistor trace on the mobo, it's too tightly packed with other stuff which I know I'm going to break. Ignorance tells me that the quick and dirty fix would be to outright replace the osci, would that work?
Hey, the short answer is, just use a Genesis console as it's ready to go. The long answer is, you can't just replace the PAL oscillator on the board with an NTSC one as the clock dividers would be all messed up and screw up the other chips. The right way to do it is to use an external PAL oscillator and hard wire it into PIN 6 of the CXA1145. BUT you will still need to lift the pin to disconnect the original clock signal. You'll end up with PAL60 doing it this way, or use an NSTC oscillator and get true NTSC60 (Same as Genesis). I'm planning a new video on this topic very soon as it gets a little more involved as there is really 3 pins to consider on the CXA1145 (5, 6 and 7).
I know this is an old video, but I have a question please. When modding a PAL Mega Drive to output 60hz like this, is the 60hz signal a true NTSC 60hz signal, or is it a PAL 60hz signal?
I ask because I have a modded Master System II with a 50/60 switch, and when in 60hz mode it’s outputting a PAL signal still. The speed increases and it goes full screen as you’d expect, but I just don’t think it looks great, when compared to a true NTSC signal from the likes of a Famicom or Super Famicom. I’m using a CRT.
Great video by the way, it was really informative and easy to follow, even for a newbie like me.
No it’s not NTSC it’s PAL60 which is pretty good, but not perfect. The timings will always be off by a little as the internal crystal is still set to 4.33Mhz PAL spec.
So if I just wanna make my console run at 60hz, without any interest in adding a switch to flick between 50 and 60, I just need to cut the JP3 line and it should still work?
I know I'm late but did it work for you that way?
@@NoGoodNameHelpPLZ it did!
Is it possible to modify a model 2 Mega Drive, and is it possible to use it with a region free mega cd?
I made the modification on a Japanese Mega Drive, but when I use PAL 50HZ mode the image is black and white. The crystal is 53.69317MHz. Should I replace it with 53.203424 MHz to solve this problem?
For the va4 megadrive which lines do you need too cut? I can't see it clearly on the image you posted on your website. Thanks
Glenn Poland The red and black wires need to be fully separated from the blue. So ensure the traces linking them are all cut. The switch is the part that rejoins them together, so you never want to leave the traces in place.
Is a composite to RGB converter going to work with the colours?
No, just take RGB directly out of the factory DIN connector.
Thank you for the help
Cool video😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎
why would you fit a switch anyway, would you not just scratch the jumper and leave it in full ntsc!
Hi mine is a M5 PAL VA4 so it hasn’t got Jp1-Jp4, does this mean it can’t me mod?
It will have the jumpers but in a different location. If you look in the description I actually added this extra guide for VA4 globalgarage.com.au/mod-megadrive-5060hz-va4-revision/
Does it work with s3k
Hello. I suscribe your channel. Like
Hmm I thought I won't go back to 50 but I find games easier to play at the slower speed and also the picture stays fully on the screen where with the 60hz it can go partially off screen.
Also I find 50hz is sharper than 60hz without using an RGB Scart cable and losing the blended dithering pattern
You also have PAL only games like Micro Machines 2 that play too fast on an NTSC console
Hi - so will this mod allow me to play American Genesis NTSC games on my PAL Megadrive? Thanks
Chris Mckissack Yes it will.
It worked ! Your a genius mate! Now my daughter can play Barneys hide and seek (a genesis ntsc only game)
I've done this changes but it became black and white! did I do something wrong?
Rewatch from 20min as I explain that issue
@@RetroSalesAustralia Thanks! Somehow I missed that
but the ntsc 60hz sega gensis games will run natively in 60hz or only in 50hz after the region free mod?
Lord Rythorn The switch controls the 50 or 60hz speed at the hardware level, so games will play at that speed regardless of where they’re from. If you play a USA Genesis game while it’s set to 60 then it’ll play perfectly. If you try and play it at 50, then it’ll run slow. The only reason to ever use 50hz is for PAL optimised games that were designed to run at full speed at 50. All other scenarios you should run 60hz. This manual control is what is meant by region free.
If I don't care about 50hz can I jsut set the console to 60Hz eng and not worry about the switch?
Luke Taylor Yes that mode is basically a USA Sega Genesis
Global Garage why does the mod take away composite video? CN I still use sync over composite/Csync rgb cables?
not all games are optimized for 60hz some games are optimized for 50hz and if you run them on 60hz speed they will be running too fast @@luketaylor9144
Why not always keep on 60 hz ? I think it is always better with 60 hz, isn´t it ???
not all games are optimized for 60hz some games are optimized for 50hz and if you run them on 60hz speed they will be running too fast
I wouldn't do to my mint Megadrive but would do it on an old one. Why is NTSC faster than PAL?
In Europe we have 50Hz televisions. The US however, always had 60Hz televisions. Therefore they just couldn't make one console and ship it to both regions. Nowadays monitors easily support 60Hz output here, while TV's don't actually seem to.
Is it to do with voltage?
Michael Langley You mean our electricity net, probably. Europe has a 230V/50Hz net, while the US has a 110V/60Hz net. This was also an issue before we got switching power supplies.
Isn't Japanese & 50Hz = Asia region?
If one never goes back to 50hz, why have a switch? :)
Good question, but some picky PAL games that are optimised for 50hz need that speed. Also some games or add ons like MegaCD need to see PAL to boot. They can then be switched into 60hz while running. Also, I just like to have control. :)
Now where can i get a scart crt tv haha
"it runs 50hz and actually sucks" true BASICALLY TRUE (I'm European and that is torturing me....)
M