Adjusting the 45. Do not file the notches! Loosen the screw that is furthest from the zero indent on the degree indicating plate, now either push the plate in towards the body of the saw or pull away from the body depending on the adjustment needed to obtain a 45deg cut. I use a flat head screw driver to tweak and hold the degree indicator in place while tightening the screw. If this did not make sense, I will reply to any comments requesting additional description on the method
Very good presentation! It really helped me because I have that exact same saw. I know the manual tells you how it is easier for me to see a visual presentation like yours that gets right to the point.
Great video! Easy Peezy! Simple! I like it. I have a new 10” Makita. I haven’t zeroed it out yet but will now do so using your technique. For your two questions… 1. I bought and used the kerf tape you’re asking about. I used it on my table saw and my table saw cross cut sled. Also on my Makita. I think it’s a good product with 1 caveat. It’s about a 1/16th thick. Think about that and tell me the problem with that. 2. Adjusting the angle cuts on the Makita with no de dents. My guess and hope is that once the 90 is zeroed out it should be good but…yeah, if it’s not, filing the notches would be the only way.
I read up on the tape. I think Fast Cap makes it. I decided to go with a piece of Luan to replace the stock insert. It's a little low but better than being too high.
That’s it! That the stuff. Extremely sticky and quite firm. But like I said, it’s a tad thick. On some throat plates of table saws and such you can adjust the elevation to compensate. On my home made cross cut sled I couldn’t. I guess you could try and sand or router out a 1/16th. I’d pay $10 to see that. Lol! So what I do on the sled is just put a piece of the tape on the opposite end of the stock I’m cutting. @@HouseDoctorRay
Very informative video! I have the 10" version which after thousands and thousands of cuts still functions like new. A true quality product. Only thing i'm experiencing is that setting the table to another angle isn't going as smooth anymore. *Will clean her up and have a look at all lubrication points.
Many people are having problems with these types of saw where the sliding arms create a curve cut. Even one of the big tool retailers here in Australia were advertising a traditional sliding mitre saw with the horizontal bars as more accurate than the modern vertical bars (Makita Festool) because of this problem. I’ve seen people on RUclips trying to fix this issue with the two Allen screws on the arms but it looked like ‘hit and miss’ operation. And more importantly creating worse cuts that the important but more minor issues you fixed in this video. Thanks.
I have just recently went to replace my dewalt DSW780 with the Makita 10” saw and had a ton of chatter and vibration with different blades, exchanged it for the 12” and had the major pain of trying to square everything but it was nearly impossible because of this issue. Curved and double cuts etc. exchanged for the same tried and true dewalt I used and came out of the box perfect. No issues. Pretty unfortunate that I was told to bring a brand new 800$ saw to a service center
On my 1219L I had the problem with the curved cut. After replacing the saw blade with one from Bayerwald the curved cut was gone. I think that the original blade is too thin and not balanced.
This is a common problem, especially for those who decide to lift or Cary the saw by the slide instead of the handle. Adjusting this is a little bit more complicated than the rest of the adjustments on the makita saws. The trick is to use a piece of dowel or 1x1 in between the slides to manipulate then hold the slides in position while tightening the two allen set screws.
Excellent video. I like your ingenuity of using two separate boards with straight edges that don't require perfectly parallel edges. I just got a new saw - I am going to use your techniques to dial it in. Also. if I understand correctly my sequence should be 1. Check/Adjust fence, 2. Check/adjust bevel angle to ensure perfect 90 degree cut & then lastly 3. the miter/0 degree cut testing and adjustment. So kind of reverse order in which your video goes. Is that a correct understanding? Thanks for your help and keep these videos coming.
Doesn't really matter if you do the miter or the bevel first. Just know that one can affect the other so just check everything again when you're all done.
Usefull information and explained very well! I'm a beginner and my (fairly cheap) mitersaw is giving me headaches when it comes to nice, clean cuts. It should have started with the basics instead of using it straight out of the box.
Yes, had that issue with mine. Fairly easy to fix and that guy isn't joking about how tight those Allen screws are. ruclips.net/video/4Ioa24818S4/видео.htmlsi=AWMpmfkywHHjNFpg
My saw is a little older but I use the Fast Cap tape because wood pieces kept falling down inside and causing problems for me. The tape is a little thick but it is much better with it since I can see exactly where the saw will cut the wood. It seems like a cleaner cut but I also changed the blade to a Forrest Woodworker crosscut blade so it probably is that.
I have seen that Fast Cap tape. I wonder wouldn't it add some thickness effectively making the saw bed out of level and wouldn't that cause some error in cuts? TIA.
I'd like to know the best way to adjust, and clean the laser. Mine slides back and forth and its gummed up with something. And I'm replacing the blade with a thinner kerf so the laser will need adjusting. I did see something that said to make a cut and adjust the laser to that cut, so maybe that's the best way? Also wondering if there is a better way to do it without wasting wood.
How do you know which way to move the saw when it is out? For you 90 test, how did you know it was cutting to the left? For the bevel test, how did you know it was tipped to the right? Thanks.
For the 90 test the gap was at the part against the fence. That means the blade away from the fence was too far left. You just have to keep track of which way the board is when you cut it and where the gap is. If you try to adjust and it gets worse it means you went the wrong way.
@@HouseDoctorRay I thought in your video the gap indicated the table was a bit right and not left to produce that gap closer to the reference edge. Am I getting something wrong? TIA
A couple of days ago I used the tilting bevel to cut some bed molding and now it won’t lock to 90 degrees. It will stop at 90 to the right but go past to the left, yet the lock button in back will not go back into its receiver in either direction. I can’t figure out why. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong, or how to fix it?
Unplug it. Vacuum everything you can see. Use compressed air and blow into every nook and cranny while tilting and beveling. My bet is there is dust buildup in the housing jamming the spring. If that doesn't work you're going to have to start taking it apart...
You cover adjusting the Bevel Angle on this saw. Do you have a 0 degree stop when you have gone over to the left tilt? My Makita 1219L doesn’t seem to have and the tech guys laugh at me for thinking there should be one. I have the adjustment screw like yours, but what am I adjusting if there isn’t a stop? Help!
I have problem when I put at maximum but my 90 degree cut is almost 3mm different. When I tie and lose the bevel cut function mop I can see the saw is moving,when I tie it pull the saw to the left. How can I fix it?
I had a brand new Ridgid 4521 compound miter saw. I set it on a 40'' high table on a cement floor.. I had the blade all the way down and i slghtly llifted the front of the saw or something the blade and housing immediatley sprung up and the saw jumped off the table and landed upside down at least 4 ' from the table it was sitting on.I ruined a brand new saw I don;t think I had even made a cut
![I.N "HALLUCINATION" | [Stray Kids : SKZ-PLAYER]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/n5B5q1Hwt_U/mqdefault.jpg)
Merci
Adjusting the 45. Do not file the notches! Loosen the screw that is furthest from the zero indent on the degree indicating plate, now either push the plate in towards the body of the saw or pull away from the body depending on the adjustment needed to obtain a 45deg cut. I use a flat head screw driver to tweak and hold the degree indicator in place while tightening the screw. If this did not make sense, I will reply to any comments requesting additional description on the method
That's perfect! I knew someone would know what to do.
Very good presentation! It really helped me because I have that exact same saw. I know the manual tells you how it is easier for me to see a visual presentation like yours that gets right to the point.
Yeah I’m subscribing right now from this video.
Thank you Mr Lobster. I really appreciate it.
Great video! Easy Peezy! Simple! I like it. I have a new 10” Makita. I haven’t zeroed it out yet but will now do so using your technique. For your two questions…
1. I bought and used the kerf tape you’re asking about. I used it on my table saw and my table saw cross cut sled. Also on my Makita. I think it’s a good product with 1 caveat. It’s about a 1/16th thick. Think about that and tell me the problem with that.
2. Adjusting the angle cuts on the Makita with no de dents. My guess and hope is that once the 90 is zeroed out it should be good but…yeah, if it’s not, filing the notches would be the only way.
I read up on the tape. I think Fast Cap makes it. I decided to go with a piece of Luan to replace the stock insert. It's a little low but better than being too high.
That’s it! That the stuff. Extremely sticky and quite firm. But like I said, it’s a tad thick. On some throat plates of table saws and such you can adjust the elevation to compensate. On my home made cross cut sled I couldn’t. I guess you could try and sand or router out a 1/16th. I’d pay $10 to see that. Lol! So what I do on the sled is just put a piece of the tape on the opposite end of the stock I’m cutting. @@HouseDoctorRay
That’s a great video! Breaks it down excellent
Thank you. Tell all your friends.
Very informative video! I have the 10" version which after thousands and thousands of cuts still functions like new. A true quality product. Only thing i'm experiencing is that setting the table to another angle isn't going as smooth anymore. *Will clean her up and have a look at all lubrication points.
Very good video!
Thank you
Many people are having problems with these types of saw where the sliding arms create a curve cut. Even one of the big tool retailers here in Australia were advertising a traditional sliding mitre saw with the horizontal bars as more accurate than the modern vertical bars (Makita Festool) because of this problem. I’ve seen people on RUclips trying to fix this issue with the two Allen screws on the arms but it looked like ‘hit and miss’ operation. And more importantly creating worse cuts that the important but more minor issues you fixed in this video. Thanks.
I had to do the Allen wrench adjustment and it was pretty easy. Kind of ridiculous though for a $700 saw.
I have just recently went to replace my dewalt DSW780 with the Makita 10” saw and had a ton of chatter and vibration with different blades, exchanged it for the 12” and had the major pain of trying to square everything but it was nearly impossible because of this issue. Curved and double cuts etc. exchanged for the same tried and true dewalt I used and came out of the box perfect. No issues. Pretty unfortunate that I was told to bring a brand new 800$ saw to a service center
On my 1219L I had the problem with the curved cut. After replacing the saw blade with one from Bayerwald the curved cut was gone. I think that the original blade is too thin and not balanced.
This is a common problem, especially for those who decide to lift or Cary the saw by the slide instead of the handle. Adjusting this is a little bit more complicated than the rest of the adjustments on the makita saws. The trick is to use a piece of dowel or 1x1 in between the slides to manipulate then hold the slides in position while tightening the two allen set screws.
This is a smart way of doing this! I have the same saw!
Thanks Ashton.
Excellent video. I like your ingenuity of using two separate boards with straight edges that don't require perfectly parallel edges. I just got a new saw - I am going to use your techniques to dial it in.
Also. if I understand correctly my sequence should be 1. Check/Adjust fence, 2. Check/adjust bevel angle to ensure perfect 90 degree cut & then lastly 3. the miter/0 degree cut testing and adjustment. So kind of reverse order in which your video goes. Is that a correct understanding? Thanks for your help and keep these videos coming.
Doesn't really matter if you do the miter or the bevel first. Just know that one can affect the other so just check everything again when you're all done.
Hi, my saw is way off, did try the calibration with instructions, but! Your video made it so easy, awesome! Don't know about the 45 set up!
Glad it worked for you.
Usefull information and explained very well! I'm a beginner and my (fairly cheap) mitersaw is giving me headaches when it comes to nice, clean cuts. It should have started with the basics instead of using it straight out of the box.
Get a good blade like Diablo. It will make a big difference and they're not that expensive.
Very helpful video.
Thanks Chris.
Have you heard about curved cuts from uncalibrated slide pilars?
Yes, had that issue with mine. Fairly easy to fix and that guy isn't joking about how tight those Allen screws are.
ruclips.net/video/4Ioa24818S4/видео.htmlsi=AWMpmfkywHHjNFpg
Great explanation many thanks
Thanks for watching and taking the time to comment.
Very nice tutorial, good job! 👍
Thank you.
Thank you for this this is an awesome instructional video
Thanks, glad you liked it.
My saw is a little older but I use the Fast Cap tape because wood pieces kept falling down inside and causing problems for me. The tape is a little thick but it is much better with it since I can see exactly where the saw will cut the wood. It seems like a cleaner cut but I also changed the blade to a Forrest Woodworker crosscut blade so it probably is that.
I just cut a piece of Luan to fit. It's a little low but works well.
I have seen that Fast Cap tape. I wonder wouldn't it add some thickness effectively making the saw bed out of level and wouldn't that cause some error in cuts? TIA.
It could throw off the cut depending on the thickness of your insert. My insert was slightly lower than table.
Good video
Thanks.
I'd like to know the best way to adjust, and clean the laser. Mine slides back and forth and its gummed up with something. And I'm replacing the blade with a thinner kerf so the laser will need adjusting. I did see something that said to make a cut and adjust the laser to that cut, so maybe that's the best way? Also wondering if there is a better way to do it without wasting wood.
That's probably the best way. Just clamp down your board.
As far as cleaning, I'd try something mild like soapy water and go from there.
Thanks for a really informative video. Your step by instructions are easily followed even by a beginning woodworker. SEMPER FI
Thanks so much.
Very helpful. Do you have any tips for adjusting the laser on a Mastercraft saw?
Easy. Clamp down a wide board and cut it. Adjust the laser to match the cut before removing the board.
How do you know which way to move the saw when it is out? For you 90 test, how did you know it was cutting to the left? For the bevel test, how did you know it was tipped to the right? Thanks.
For the 90 test the gap was at the part against the fence. That means the blade away from the fence was too far left.
You just have to keep track of which way the board is when you cut it and where the gap is.
If you try to adjust and it gets worse it means you went the wrong way.
Does that mean that if the blade away from the fence was too far to the right the gap would have been somewhere else?
@@HouseDoctorRay
Yes, the gap would have been at the far side of the test pieces.
@@HouseDoctorRay thank you.
@@HouseDoctorRay I thought in your video the gap indicated the table was a bit right and not left to produce that gap closer to the reference edge. Am I getting something wrong? TIA
A couple of days ago I used the tilting bevel to cut some bed molding and now it won’t lock to 90 degrees. It will stop at 90 to the right but go past to the left, yet the lock button in back will not go back into its receiver in either direction. I can’t figure out why. Any suggestions as to what could be wrong, or how to fix it?
Unplug it.
Vacuum everything you can see.
Use compressed air and blow into every nook and cranny while tilting and beveling. My bet is there is dust buildup in the housing jamming the spring.
If that doesn't work you're going to have to start taking it apart...
Thank you, I will
You cover adjusting the Bevel Angle on this saw. Do you have a 0 degree stop when you have gone over to the left tilt? My Makita 1219L doesn’t seem to have and the tech guys laugh at me for thinking there should be one. I have the adjustment screw like yours, but what am I adjusting if there isn’t a stop? Help!
I have problem when I put at maximum but my 90 degree cut is almost 3mm different. When I tie and lose the bevel cut function mop I can see the saw is moving,when I tie it pull the saw to the left. How can I fix it?
TY, let me get my manual
Why is mine so hard to pull down when cutting?
Sawdust can get packed into the pivot points. Compressed air is your friend.
I have used the tape. It works, but it has a thickness. Be sure u can lower the throat plate so the tape is flush with the saw bed.
The FastCap tape?
The zero clearance tape works but its thick stuff. Dont plan on cutting anything short without using more tape to counter the other end.
On my DW saw the plate was a little low so maybe it would be good on that. The plate on the Makita is almost flush.
TY for the information. However it seems like your makita is calibrated but your camera😂😅
😢 I know.
I've upgraded to 4K now and pretty much have the exposure settings figured out.
ruclips.net/video/SP_LdnVuUHs/видео.htmlsi=95_pomFPYNVuS9mo
I had a brand new Ridgid 4521 compound miter saw. I set it on a 40'' high table on a cement floor.. I had the blade all the way down and i slghtly llifted the front of the saw or something the blade and housing immediatley sprung up and the saw jumped off the table and landed upside down at least 4 ' from the table it was sitting on.I ruined a brand new saw I don;t think I had even made a cut
😮
I would (more) thoroughly vacuum the air vents of the motor.
I regularly get in there with the compressor nozzle and blow everything out.
Watched one guy remove the blue plastic insert and replace it with a strip of hardwood for zero clearance.
You didn't address the slide adjustment that is needed if your saw is cutting a crescent in the work piece.
Easy fix:
ruclips.net/video/4Ioa24818S4/видео.htmlsi=ad_DujbDaj623inB