Hi Dave! Just to throw my 2 cents in: I own 3 of these cameras, and agree with a couple of your points, but not all. The shutter is indeed pretty loud (sounds like a mousetrap to me) but the lenses are really not hard to remove and replace. I remember reading that camera quest review and thinking I better not buy one. I did anyway, and learned to remove and replace lenses easily. The tricky thing is thinking there is more to do than is needed - when you put the lens back on, you don't touch the mount or that bottom switch, you just put the lens in (make sure the notch aligns) and twist clockwise. That is it. And to remove, make sure the lens is set on infinity, and with that lever pushed up, rotate counterclockwise. That is it. I suppose by now something could be gummed up causing problems, but mine always work they way I described with no problems. I think if you used it constantly, you would find it not so inconvenient. And since you were doing this while showing it to your camera, it must have caused some additional awkwardness. Also, I think that lens is much better than what you say. After reading your review, I went to a nearby cemetery and took some photos close, medium and far away and they were all sharp. I can confirm the speeds are 1/300 s, 1/100 s, 1/50 s, 1/25 s, 1/10 s and B. The B is right next to the 1/300 s so if you accidentally nudge the switch, it goes to bulb (I have done this). As for the pressure plate, as you say, if the film has an anti-halation dye, it should not be a problem. I just painted the pressure plate on one of mine and that works fine. And the lens takes a Series V lens hood which is always a good idea. It is a quite capable camera. I have the other two lenses as well and the viewfinder - I will share some pictures with you when I have a full set using each lens. Thanks for reviewing this camera!
Thank you! I do agree that with some practice the lenses would be easier to remove and replace. I definitely do not have that practice (especially not upside-down and backwards, as you noted.) It is also possible that there's a decent sample quality variation in the lenses for these and I'll admit that I've not used mine to verify that it's sharp or soft. Sample quality variation was a larger issue back in the day than it is today (by and large) and there was a greater variation across a line of identical items in terms of performance. I would think that parts of this lens were probably hand milled, maybe all of the housings were, and that would lead to a larger variation in lens element placements and so forth. And definitely yes, feel free to share a link to your work as a comment.
I got a lens that came with the instructions. The other secret to know is that the instructions specifically require that the focus be set to infinity when removing and mounting. In removing the lens set to infinity and turn lens with a finger pushing the lever in the direction of the arrow. In mounting just align the 3 dots (after focusing to infinity) and turn clockwise, and keep your cotton picking fingers off the lever. It's a snap when you have the Argus instructions available.
Use a product called "Goo-Gone" on a cotton swab to remove the sticky tape residue Dave. The Argus C-44 is an interesting beast. Maybe you could do an overview on a Exakta Varex sometime. Thanks for the great overview as usual Dave. Oh one more thing. On the Olympus OM-10 that little odd looking protrusion under the shutter button you thought should turn out is actually a way to turn on the electronics of the camera. After a few seconds the OM-10 turns off the power and instead of turning the thing on and off to save battery life, you can press the front of that protrusion and start the power before shooting. Anyways you might have found that out since your 2013 review.
Thank you, Wayne. That did the trick. As for the Exakta, I don't have one of those this month but there's a different Exacta coming up at the end of March.
Maybe try you could use a bit of orange oil on the area that had the duck tape on.We have a brand called Orange power in Australia, so I'm hopeful there would be a similar product in your part of the globe. By the way, great video content👌
I have this same model camera, the C44, that I use for scenic photography, I also use two films, Kodak Ektar 100, and Ilford B&W 400. However. Yesterday, while finishing a roll of film, rewinding it and opening the camera’s back, I just discovered yesterday that the leaf shutter is stuck in the wide open position. I can still press the shutter button, and can hear a click, but the leaf shutter is still wide open. Thankfully the local camera store might refund my film development, since the film was exposed the entire time. Quite a nightmare. There are thankfully two camera repair businesses nearby, but price ranges around $125.
Oh dear. That is a problem. That's probably gonna need a professional overhaul. It could be something minor like some thick lubricating grease, or it could be a busted spring. That the shutter still makes a sound leads me to hope that it's just grease.
I have a C44R with a meter that attaches to the shutter speed dial.I agree the shutter is loud,and the lens mount is real fussy.To me the C4 is a better looking camera,but doesn't have interchangeable lenses.
I've seen photos of and read testimony by GIs in World War II who used the Argus C3 "when not under fire." Considering the primitive field conditions faced by soldier-photographers, "simple and rugged" beats "complex and fragile." (Who needs a Zorki or Fed when you've got an Argus C3?;) As for "anger management issues," that shows up on this Argus C44 page: www.cameraquest.com/argc44.htm
Hi Dave! Just to throw my 2 cents in: I own 3 of these cameras, and agree with a couple of your points, but not all. The shutter is indeed pretty loud (sounds like a mousetrap to me) but the lenses are really not hard to remove and replace. I remember reading that camera quest review and thinking I better not buy one. I did anyway, and learned to remove and replace lenses easily. The tricky thing is thinking there is more to do than is needed - when you put the lens back on, you don't touch the mount or that bottom switch, you just put the lens in (make sure the notch aligns) and twist clockwise. That is it. And to remove, make sure the lens is set on infinity, and with that lever pushed up, rotate counterclockwise. That is it. I suppose by now something could be gummed up causing problems, but mine always work they way I described with no problems. I think if you used it constantly, you would find it not so inconvenient. And since you were doing this while showing it to your camera, it must have caused some additional awkwardness. Also, I think that lens is much better than what you say. After reading your review, I went to a nearby cemetery and took some photos close, medium and far away and they were all sharp. I can confirm the speeds are 1/300 s, 1/100 s, 1/50 s, 1/25 s, 1/10 s and B. The B is right next to the 1/300 s so if you accidentally nudge the switch, it goes to bulb (I have done this). As for the pressure plate, as you say, if the film has an anti-halation dye, it should not be a problem. I just painted the pressure plate on one of mine and that works fine. And the lens takes a Series V lens hood which is always a good idea. It is a quite capable camera. I have the other two lenses as well and the viewfinder - I will share some pictures with you when I have a full set using each lens. Thanks for reviewing this camera!
Thank you! I do agree that with some practice the lenses would be easier to remove and replace. I definitely do not have that practice (especially not upside-down and backwards, as you noted.)
It is also possible that there's a decent sample quality variation in the lenses for these and I'll admit that I've not used mine to verify that it's sharp or soft. Sample quality variation was a larger issue back in the day than it is today (by and large) and there was a greater variation across a line of identical items in terms of performance. I would think that parts of this lens were probably hand milled, maybe all of the housings were, and that would lead to a larger variation in lens element placements and so forth.
And definitely yes, feel free to share a link to your work as a comment.
I got a lens that came with the instructions. The other secret to know is that the instructions specifically require that the focus be set to infinity when removing and mounting. In removing the lens set to infinity and turn lens with a finger pushing the lever in the direction of the arrow. In mounting just align the 3 dots (after focusing to infinity) and turn clockwise, and keep your cotton picking fingers off the lever. It's a snap when you have the Argus instructions available.
Thank you!
Use a product called "Goo-Gone" on a cotton swab to remove the sticky tape residue Dave. The Argus C-44 is an interesting beast. Maybe you could do an overview on a Exakta Varex sometime. Thanks for the great overview as usual Dave. Oh one more thing. On the Olympus OM-10 that little odd looking protrusion under the shutter button you thought should turn out is actually a way to turn on the electronics of the camera. After a few seconds the OM-10 turns off the power and instead of turning the thing on and off to save battery life, you can press the front of that protrusion and start the power before shooting. Anyways you might have found that out since your 2013 review.
Thank you, Wayne. That did the trick.
As for the Exakta, I don't have one of those this month but there's a different Exacta coming up at the end of March.
Maybe try you could use a bit of orange oil on the area that had the duck tape on.We have a brand called Orange power in Australia, so I'm hopeful there would be a similar product in your part of the globe. By the way, great video content👌
Thank you! That did the trick, yes. In the states it goes by two brand names, Goo Gone and Goof Off.
I have this same model camera, the C44, that I use for scenic photography, I also use two films, Kodak Ektar 100, and Ilford B&W 400. However. Yesterday, while finishing a roll of film, rewinding it and opening the camera’s back, I just discovered yesterday that the leaf shutter is stuck in the wide open position. I can still press the shutter button, and can hear a click, but the leaf shutter is still wide open. Thankfully the local camera store might refund my film development, since the film was exposed the entire time. Quite a nightmare. There are thankfully two camera repair businesses nearby, but price ranges around $125.
Oh dear. That is a problem. That's probably gonna need a professional overhaul. It could be something minor like some thick lubricating grease, or it could be a busted spring. That the shutter still makes a sound leads me to hope that it's just grease.
I have a C44R with a meter that attaches to the shutter speed dial.I agree the shutter is loud,and the lens mount is real fussy.To me the C4 is a better looking camera,but doesn't have interchangeable lenses.
I agree about the C-4 definitely. The lens mount on this somewhat detracts from the overall aesthetics.
What film should you buy for this camera? I have no clue which ones to buy. Any specific type I should buy?
Any 35mm film will fit, but I'd recommend something in the 50-200 ISO range because of the shutter speed limitations.
Mine’s is broken for some reason in the inside and make the camera stuck
Stuck as in the film back won't open?
No the shutter is stuck
I've seen photos of and read testimony by GIs in World War II who used the Argus C3 "when not under fire." Considering the primitive field conditions faced by soldier-photographers, "simple and rugged" beats "complex and fragile." (Who needs a Zorki or Fed when you've got an Argus C3?;)
As for "anger management issues," that shows up on this Argus C44 page: www.cameraquest.com/argc44.htm
:D I definitely agree. Even just out hiking I prefer cameras that I know will perform reliably.
@@DavidHancock Take a look at the rare Argus C4 Geiss: www.mikeeckman.com/2021/07/arugs-c4-geiss-1954/
Oh nice. I'd not heard of that. It's definitely an interesting camera.