He forgot to wrap the exterior framing with either WeatherShield or tyvek. That should go on before the install. Then flash over the top of the brick mould after the door's in place. Also, you can get a perfect install as far as your reveal, or what you called "margin" around the door-to-frame. Very first thing to check before install is level on floor in rough opening. If you know it's 1/8 low on one side, simply put in some plastic shims before you set the door. Then, double check the rough opening sides for plumb, and get an idea of what's going on there before you lift the door into place. Hope this helps!
I had no idea what it would take to have a new door placed where I wanted it in a load-bearing exterior wall. This was a great demonstration of the basic process and has given me the confidence to proceed with my project.
Thanks a lot these videos helped me out a lot. I've been doing handyman work a long time over ten years, but my expertise is more welding and carpentry like cabinets, decks, patios, pergola, and what not. So I've only done 1 door and it did not come out too bad. ad after the expansion foam set (after I left) it had fucked the door margins up and let's just say I lost that job due to my inexperience with hanging doors.
The installation was very straight forward. Easy to understand, too. I wonder if any other information was missed but it was good presentation overall. Thanks.
I learned a few things, and that's to be expected since I've never done a door installation. I'm looking at other videos, too. But I don't feel like being critical, if the results are satisfactory. Sometimes and older home isn't worth the trouble to do a full-on professional installation. I like some of the things the guy does, like hiding the screws behind the weatherstrip. There was obviously some prep work that we didn't see in this video, and he may even have been installing this solely for demonstration purposes I realize that a few commenters have pointed out some shortcomings in his method, and that's okay. I'm thinking of installing a budget-priced door in my 25-yr-old trailer house, and I can see to it that there is proper flashing, caulking, leveling, etc. without having these procedures detailed in a two-hour-long video. There are other videos for those things, but this guy just kind of cuts to the chase without getting bogged down in details. After all, I'm just getting started learning. Good video.
Good job of explaining the fundamentals of door installation. One optional thing a DIY may want to consider is to pay a little extra and get pressure treated wood jambs to prevent rot. In very humid areas of the SE USA an exterior door and frame can rot out in less than 5 years. In other parts of the USA eg.Colorado, untreated wood jambs will last decades. If you can't get pressure treated wood-paint the insides of the jambs and raw wood edges before installation.
When you buy an exterior door does it come with the compleete flashing and weatherstrip included or do you have to have someone who specialize in sheetmetal to come and reflash afterwards?? Note: this will be an intall in an existing structure.
Sorry but he's been very busy for last seven years to answer your question since way back then give him some more time he may eventually yet get back to answering your question.
I don't know the first thing about doors. I need to replace two entry doors in my home. we are going to diy. but from what I've seen on videos today...isn't it supposed to be level? aren't you supposed to put bunch of shims?
and should be back far enough so it's flush to the finished drywall, or you'll have a nice gap trying to put trim over it... pretty much how you don't install a door.
I think, he missed the water protect band around the frame too. I've been looking to videos because we need to replace an entrance door, so I don't really know. 😬
I generally don't add my 2 cents to a video merely to critique someone's methodology of installation but there really are some troublesome issues here that any DIY'er thinking this was the proper way to install a door might fall into the trap of following these instructions. Not saying this entire video is bad but there are some things that should have been addressed before even fitting this pre-hung door into place. Notice the surrounding sheathing where the door will fit on top of (outer perimeter of door opening) being nailed into it's final placement. It's tattered & literally flapping around giving you an unstable substrate to mount your door for the purpose of waterproofing & stability itself. The same applies to the already damaged sill or band at the bottom of the door itself where you can notice the wooden material's already been pitted possibly by insect infestation or normal decay. I'm not suggesting the sill material be replaced "if it's still solid" & worthy of holding & gripping fasteners or simply maintaining support underneath but two rows of globbed on caulking will not adequately protect the remaining material. At the very least,, approved heavy mill poly wrap should be placed on top,, cut & tapered at the edges & nailed into the wood vertical framing after you take that shoddy perimeter sheathing down! This guy doesn't mention how the house itself will be finished off with the finish material butting up against the door he's working to now but it looks like EIFS/synthetic stucco which is big trouble within itself being the central figure of a multi billion $$ class action lawsuit across the entire nation. In this 4:00 video he's merely jamming a pre-hung door into an opening,, an "unstable/unsuitable opening" without usage of a level or framing square to check his right angles of his outside corners. A framing square's very helpful with a one man installation scheme once you're ready to set your door by simply predrilling one or two pilot holes in your outside brick molding,, sliding the door in place & tapping a single galvanized finish nail into place to simply check your door adjustments. Depending on how much "adjustment space" you have to work with being the additional space of your rough opening size vs. the finished interior dimensions of your door jamb,, you can pre-insert a shim on one side just to let you find your center position of how much usable space you're working with once sliding the door into the hole or simply mark the exterior molding at the top & a matching mark on your sheathing to center the door properly. The door itself is too damned heavy & cumbersome to keep pulling it in & out of the hole several times "in guesswork". I'll suggest one more thing as well,, any time you drive or screw fasteners into finished wood,, you're "displacing the existing wood", In other words,, you're moving or forcing the fibers of that wood to the side which can cause unnecessary splitting. I always or normally predrill most of my holes with a drill bit a size or two smaller than the fastener I'm using to maintain it's grip to the interior of the wood but all that wood your drill auger is spinning & spitting out is no longer an issue to either drive your nail or screw through by coring out the density of the wood itself. This way you can easily "tap fasteners into place" while going through the process of plumbing your door level & inserting final shims in place. That one or two nails act as your partner holding your door in place for finding adjustments. Sorry,, but this young guy picked a piss poor illustration to mount a door into an opening for others to go by & even the part he's doing seemingly noteworthy,, hiding his screws behind the weather stripping,, he's actually inserting his screws into the rubber stripping itself! All he had to do was simply pull the rubber stripping out (they slide right out) & screw his jamb into place but you can see a the 2:20 mark where the stripping is twisting all around due to him screwing through it. Again,, he should have predrilled pilot holes at those junctures as well once he removed the stripping. Stay with it young man,, I'm not trying to ruin your confidence but you've got a lot to learn as we all did getting started in the routine of "doing it right". You've got the will it seems,, now just brush up on your fundamentals as to what makes the job complete. There are "even more things" I didn't mention needed to be done but it's somewhat pointless until you address these few basics I'm mentioning. From where I sit,, this house was a disaster before & it's merely being covered over with more issues further down the road,, "lipstick on a pig" I think it's called. Look at the vinyl clad window to the right of this door installation,, I do hope that's not someone's idea of refitting that window properly & what's that going on with the wallboard/gypsum to the left of the door installation?
Lol @ all the criticism. The guy is not perfect. Who is? But show me another video explaining how to break through a load bearing wall and install a door. All you'll find are door replacement instructions. Huge difference. My project is even more complicated because my home has balloon framing. So I'm researching whalers, supports.. I've never found a video that's a ONE stop instructional holy grail. Do your homework. Piece together a game plan from different sources to suit your specific project.
but you're still suppose to level a prehung door, put shims, even people who don't know anything about doors know this at least. sure he didn't pull it back far enough to be flush with drywall, didn't put proper flashing but shit at minimum you level it. and when you put shit like this on youtube for people wondering how to do it, you put the responsibility on yourself to make sure it's right...
Meh. I watched this video (the ONLY video on RUclips I found on breaking through a load bearing wall), read through the comments, asked around and installed my door perfectly. I appreciate the comments on steps not shown in the video but to say he has no business making videos is stupid. If you cant do some research from multiple sources and don't have common sense you should pick a phone and call a contractor.
Everyone remember this guy, because if you ever call someone to install Exterior or Interior doors and he shows up tell him to hit the road, "Reason Being", he doesn't know the first thing about install doors.
Folks most all the major and will known Door and Window manufactures have very helpful installation instructions on here and their Web Sites along with This Old House and Danny Lippford and the video below. DO NOT DO IT LIKE THIS, ITS SO WRONG.
He forgot to wrap the exterior framing with either WeatherShield or tyvek. That should go on before the install. Then flash over the top of the brick mould after the door's in place. Also, you can get a perfect install as far as your reveal, or what you called "margin" around the door-to-frame. Very first thing to check before install is level on floor in rough opening. If you know it's 1/8 low on one side, simply put in some plastic shims before you set the door. Then, double check the rough opening sides for plumb, and get an idea of what's going on there before you lift the door into place. Hope this helps!
I had no idea what it would take to have a new door placed where I wanted it in a load-bearing exterior wall. This was a great demonstration of the basic process and has given me the confidence to proceed with my project.
Thanks a lot these videos helped me out a lot. I've been doing handyman work a long time over ten years, but my expertise is more welding and carpentry like cabinets, decks, patios, pergola, and what not. So I've only done 1 door and it did not come out too bad. ad after the expansion foam set (after I left) it had fucked the door margins up and let's just say I lost that job due to my inexperience with hanging doors.
The installation was very straight forward. Easy to understand, too. I wonder if any other information was missed but it was good presentation overall. Thanks.
Nice job! Please do more videos. Thank you for sharing.
I learned a few things, and that's to be expected since I've never done a door installation. I'm looking at other videos, too. But I don't feel like being critical, if the results are satisfactory. Sometimes and older home isn't worth the trouble to do a full-on professional installation. I like some of the things the guy does, like hiding the screws behind the weatherstrip. There was obviously some prep work that we didn't see in this video, and he may even have been installing this solely for demonstration purposes
I realize that a few commenters have pointed out some shortcomings in his method, and that's okay. I'm thinking of installing a budget-priced door in my 25-yr-old trailer house, and I can see to it that there is proper flashing, caulking, leveling, etc. without having these procedures detailed in a two-hour-long video. There are other videos for those things, but this guy just kind of cuts to the chase without getting bogged down in details. After all, I'm just getting started learning. Good video.
I disagree. it's the older homes that need the extra care. my house is 117 years old. I am going to do the doors correctly the first time.
Maybe if you fastened down some shims the low expansion foam would not tweak the door jamb.
Good job of explaining the fundamentals of door installation. One optional thing a DIY may want to consider is to pay a little extra and get pressure treated wood jambs to prevent rot. In very humid areas of the SE USA an exterior door and frame can rot out in less than 5 years. In other parts of the USA eg.Colorado, untreated wood jambs will last decades. If you can't get pressure treated wood-paint the insides of the jambs and raw wood edges before installation.
or pay extra to get it installed by a pro so you don't have to take it back out when you realized you fucked it up like this guy.
You are a pro, but an amateur watching this should be reminded to always use a level!
Very informal. 2 thumbs up
Thank you sir
. Great video !!! What about the hard part of exterior stucco door edge.. making it look pretty ????
When you buy an exterior door does it come with the compleete flashing and weatherstrip included or do you have to have someone who specialize in sheetmetal to come and reflash afterwards?? Note: this will be an intall in an existing structure.
Thank you have a blessed day and be blessed
Great job...so did u center the door in the opening to start? Thanks
?
Sorry but he's been very busy for last seven years to answer your question since way back then give him some more time he may eventually yet get back to answering your question.
thank you, good instructions
I don't know the first thing about doors. I need to replace two entry doors in my home. we are going to diy. but from what I've seen on videos today...isn't it supposed to be level? aren't you supposed to put bunch of shims?
and should be back far enough so it's flush to the finished drywall, or you'll have a nice gap trying to put trim over it... pretty much how you don't install a door.
I think, he missed the water protect band around the frame too.
I've been looking to videos because we need to replace an entrance door, so I don't really know. 😬
You always use shims to set margins properly BEFORE putting 3" or 4" brass screws through the upper and lower set of shims and door frame
No pan?
I generally don't add my 2 cents to a video merely to critique someone's methodology of installation but there really are some troublesome issues here that any DIY'er thinking this was the proper way to install a door might fall into the trap of following these instructions. Not saying this entire video is bad but there are some things that should have been addressed before even fitting this pre-hung door into place. Notice the surrounding sheathing where the door will fit on top of (outer perimeter of door opening) being nailed into it's final placement. It's tattered & literally flapping around giving you an unstable substrate to mount your door for the purpose of waterproofing & stability itself. The same applies to the already damaged sill or band at the bottom of the door itself where you can notice the wooden material's already been pitted possibly by insect infestation or normal decay. I'm not suggesting the sill material be replaced "if it's still solid" & worthy of holding & gripping fasteners or simply maintaining support underneath but two rows of globbed on caulking will not adequately protect the remaining material. At the very least,, approved heavy mill poly wrap should be placed on top,, cut & tapered at the edges & nailed into the wood vertical framing after you take that shoddy perimeter sheathing down! This guy doesn't mention how the house itself will be finished off with the finish material butting up against the door he's working to now but it looks like EIFS/synthetic stucco which is big trouble within itself being the central figure of a multi billion $$ class action lawsuit across the entire nation. In this 4:00 video he's merely jamming a pre-hung door into an opening,, an "unstable/unsuitable opening" without usage of a level or framing square to check his right angles of his outside corners. A framing square's very helpful with a one man installation scheme once you're ready to set your door by simply predrilling one or two pilot holes in your outside brick molding,, sliding the door in place & tapping a single galvanized finish nail into place to simply check your door adjustments. Depending on how much "adjustment space" you have to work with being the additional space of your rough opening size vs. the finished interior dimensions of your door jamb,, you can pre-insert a shim on one side just to let you find your center position of how much usable space you're working with once sliding the door into the hole or simply mark the exterior molding at the top & a matching mark on your sheathing to center the door properly. The door itself is too damned heavy & cumbersome to keep pulling it in & out of the hole several times "in guesswork". I'll suggest one more thing as well,, any time you drive or screw fasteners into finished wood,, you're "displacing the existing wood", In other words,, you're moving or forcing the fibers of that wood to the side which can cause unnecessary splitting. I always or normally predrill most of my holes with a drill bit a size or two smaller than the fastener I'm using to maintain it's grip to the interior of the wood but all that wood your drill auger is spinning & spitting out is no longer an issue to either drive your nail or screw through by coring out the density of the wood itself. This way you can easily "tap fasteners into place" while going through the process of plumbing your door level & inserting final shims in place. That one or two nails act as your partner holding your door in place for finding adjustments. Sorry,, but this young guy picked a piss poor illustration to mount a door into an opening for others to go by & even the part he's doing seemingly noteworthy,, hiding his screws behind the weather stripping,, he's actually inserting his screws into the rubber stripping itself! All he had to do was simply pull the rubber stripping out (they slide right out) & screw his jamb into place but you can see a the 2:20 mark where the stripping is twisting all around due to him screwing through it. Again,, he should have predrilled pilot holes at those junctures as well once he removed the stripping. Stay with it young man,, I'm not trying to ruin your confidence but you've got a lot to learn as we all did getting started in the routine of "doing it right". You've got the will it seems,, now just brush up on your fundamentals as to what makes the job complete. There are "even more things" I didn't mention needed to be done but it's somewhat pointless until you address these few basics I'm mentioning. From where I sit,, this house was a disaster before & it's merely being covered over with more issues further down the road,, "lipstick on a pig" I think it's called. Look at the vinyl clad window to the right of this door installation,, I do hope that's not someone's idea of refitting that window properly & what's that going on with the wallboard/gypsum to the left of the door installation?
When you normally don't give your 2 cent, you save up to give a dollar. Rober i applaud your attention to detail
Hung Huynh Hahaha!!
Boy! I didn’t think you could type these many characters on youtube!!!! Now I have to watch the rest of the vid.
Hahahahahahaha!!!!!!
Do not install an exterior door this way. Needs vapor barrier and proper flashing.
Yup, this guy obviously is not a professional. He didn't even check to make sure it was level or put shims in it.
Show me one person on here doing it right.
+Arkansas Homestead Glad I'm not the only one that thought he should have used shims.
People watching this in 2021
Lol @ all the criticism. The guy is not perfect. Who is? But show me another video explaining how to break through a load bearing wall and install a door. All you'll find are door replacement instructions. Huge difference.
My project is even more complicated because my home has balloon framing. So I'm researching whalers, supports..
I've never found a video that's a ONE stop instructional holy grail. Do your homework. Piece together a game plan from different sources to suit your specific project.
but you're still suppose to level a prehung door, put shims, even people who don't know anything about doors know this at least. sure he didn't pull it back far enough to be flush with drywall, didn't put proper flashing but shit at minimum you level it. and when you put shit like this on youtube for people wondering how to do it, you put the responsibility on yourself to make sure it's right...
Meh. I watched this video (the ONLY video on RUclips I found on breaking through a load bearing wall), read through the comments, asked around and installed my door perfectly. I appreciate the comments on steps not shown in the video but to say he has no business making videos is stupid.
If you cant do some research from multiple sources and don't have common sense you should pick a phone and call a contractor.
You're cute. can you install my doors? lol
Don't use that cheap-ass DAP caulk. Use a real sealant, one that will last for decades w/o cracking.
what kind of sealant? what's it called?.
Everyone remember this guy, because if you ever call someone to install Exterior or Interior doors and he shows up tell him to hit the road, "Reason Being", he doesn't know the first thing about install doors.
Jim Reagan
Folks most all the major and will known Door and Window manufactures have very helpful installation instructions on here and their Web Sites along with This Old House and Danny Lippford and the video below.
DO NOT DO IT LIKE THIS, ITS SO WRONG.
Bs video no shims
no shims no checking for plumb or if the door is square. what a joke.
No shims are necessary huh? Forget this method. Learn from a pro...
Agreed. No way you can control the gaps without shims.
Thank you have a blessed day and be blessed