These are a great tool, the basic 5,5mm file holder, . . not because of 30 degree angles and such, but because 'the file guide' holds the file up high, so as to target the top plate. What tends to happen with round files as we stand over the chainsaw bar, the file tends to dig down towards 'the gullet' (and totally ignores the topplatr). It's why experts like Buck'in use sharp files, and use a lot less pressure on the round file. I start off the day filing with the guide (to absolutely guarantee my top plates get attention). Throughout the day, I leave the guide to one side, and I just use round file with a simple handle 'freehand'. If I don't start the day with 'the guide', . . inevitably I find my chains end up with deep gullets, excellent side plate edges and it's impossible for a 5,5mm file 'to reach' the top plate any longer, . . because I've used my files to only take away too much gullet and side plate (and that's how you end up with hooked top plates too, that fold over in the cut). What those guides you, for one sharpen at start of the day, is they prevent a lot of this trend. You tend to be over anxious in mornings, and use the files too forcefully. The Vallorbe Swiss files are very different to Oregon files. There's an old style triangle profile holder, it was Oregon branded too I think. It's not use or help to focus on the top plate, but it really increases file's effectiveness for side plate sharpening. Again, that old 'Toblerone' type holder is an asset. Why? You can side plate sharpen without using round file with too much force, . . which will prevent one from filing 'too far' down into the gullet (thus creating a problem later, when trying to make a 5,5mm round file, when quickly freehand doing touch-up's, being able to address the top plate. The reason why folks (myself included), end up pointing round files dramatically up or down, is the attempt to address top plate (and the fact that we're wreckless enough to use blunt files when starting out, it just accelerates all of these problems). This is why, if one has badly abused a 3/8 inch chain, the straight flat file can bring back a little discipline to how the chain is getting prepared. As I mentioned, not knowing much better I being busy handed my chains in to be stone ground. What I was receiving back though were chains with half the tooth gone (and they weren't square ground, just one giant round space where the other half of my cutting tooth used to be). I've been trying 'to recover' some of these chains since, having been badly treated when practically new chain, . . by other sharpeners who are thought of as experts. Those file guides are worth using on chain that already has got problems.
I guess I just got lucky because I instinctively do what you recommended. I use the guide before I go out, and when I refuel I hit each one a few strokes freehand.
Again great advice and helpful information regarding the use of files 😊
These are a great tool, the basic 5,5mm file holder, . . not because of 30 degree angles and such, but because 'the file guide' holds the file up high, so as to target the top plate. What tends to happen with round files as we stand over the chainsaw bar, the file tends to dig down towards 'the gullet' (and totally ignores the topplatr). It's why experts like Buck'in use sharp files, and use a lot less pressure on the round file. I start off the day filing with the guide (to absolutely guarantee my top plates get attention). Throughout the day, I leave the guide to one side, and I just use round file with a simple handle 'freehand'. If I don't start the day with 'the guide', . . inevitably I find my chains end up with deep gullets, excellent side plate edges and it's impossible for a 5,5mm file 'to reach' the top plate any longer, . . because I've used my files to only take away too much gullet and side plate (and that's how you end up with hooked top plates too, that fold over in the cut). What those guides you, for one sharpen at start of the day, is they prevent a lot of this trend. You tend to be over anxious in mornings, and use the files too forcefully. The Vallorbe Swiss files are very different to Oregon files. There's an old style triangle profile holder, it was Oregon branded too I think. It's not use or help to focus on the top plate, but it really increases file's effectiveness for side plate sharpening. Again, that old 'Toblerone' type holder is an asset. Why? You can side plate sharpen without using round file with too much force, . . which will prevent one from filing 'too far' down into the gullet (thus creating a problem later, when trying to make a 5,5mm round file, when quickly freehand doing touch-up's, being able to address the top plate. The reason why folks (myself included), end up pointing round files dramatically up or down, is the attempt to address top plate (and the fact that we're wreckless enough to use blunt files when starting out, it just accelerates all of these problems). This is why, if one has badly abused a 3/8 inch chain, the straight flat file can bring back a little discipline to how the chain is getting prepared. As I mentioned, not knowing much better I being busy handed my chains in to be stone ground. What I was receiving back though were chains with half the tooth gone (and they weren't square ground, just one giant round space where the other half of my cutting tooth used to be). I've been trying 'to recover' some of these chains since, having been badly treated when practically new chain, . . by other sharpeners who are thought of as experts. Those file guides are worth using on chain that already has got problems.
Great comments thankyou
I guess I just got lucky because I instinctively do what you recommended. I use the guide before I go out, and when I refuel I hit each one a few strokes freehand.
Try acid etching your old files for a extension of life
Tried that no luck rather just buy new ones packet of 12