I like watching your videos. I live in the New England area of the USA. It's fun seeing the little things you do that are different. I think I will stick with my American style colored cell cups but love some of the other gadgets you have access to...
I like that you show real beekeeping instead of the perfect way set up for you tube, because nobody can do it that way all the time, and this is actually how it usually is!
I was whayting for this video since i started watching YT. It's the most important video of the year.. finally !! an english speaking brood break 😁. Much better than my wrong spelled long comments about it
I am also using the Italian cages (day 9). Are you planning to remove the cages or leave them in all the time? Also my colonies were 50/50 on making queen cells. I'm going to release my queens at day 16 for a 3 day treatment window (I have very little drone brood).
Hi Richard! How will you treat the Varroa in the nucs that you have made? If you put a mated queen in that will be released in just a couple days and be laying relatively quickly, you aren't getting the 24 day brood break that you are in the bigger colonies. How do you account for this?
Yes definitely, I they are essentially full of varroa. So I try and vape all my nucs after the queens have been released and as they start laying, but also after the old brood has hatched, however this year they are also getting one Amitraze strip per hive. (Apivar)
Great timing.. the condicions look really good for it. I like how they prepare the brood box for new brood in the dearth.. make everything ready for the queen. I did it in juli. Now we whayt for ivy pollen to save us from the 3 month long dearth and drought. I think you're working too much.. double-excluding 😁
Hi Richard, we also do brood brake with or without cage in Italy in this period, have you ever tried to put the queen in a upper box over a queen excluder, along with only a frame full of brood in different stages, between dividers? With this method the queen never stops to lay during the 21 days and much of the varroa will be in the frame full of capped brood where the queen was that at this point is melted. I've seen that you also work with boxes of 5 frames over 5, I did it last year in that configuration and everything worked fine to the exception of some queen cells made, but i think this happens with the cage method also. Let me know if you have experience and suggestions, thanks for your work.
Hi, i have not tried the other methods, to me to work properly it has to be all or nothing and thats why i have chosen to try these cages, any other configuration that has brood would mean destroying good brood that i dont agree with or not actually getting all the mites due to small amounts of brood elsewhere. I think trying this suits my operation well because were only have two nectar flows each year then after that were basically done for the season.will keep you updated.
@@richardnoel3141 Well, we normally use an old comb for that purpose, to enhance the comb renewal, and by melting it we also apply a mechanical threatment, because most of the varroa in the hive will invade that lonely comb with brood, and then we go on with the OA. Anyway, keep us updated, waiting for the next video.
@@JamaicaSound we tried the horizontal frame method for cuple of years.. and brood removing methods. They all work. But i always go back to the small cages that i had to make years ago when this was new. For me it's the easiest and i don't see queen problems after it. Last year we caged them for winter brood break too. A beekeeper from ltaly told me about it .. l'm on an island in the adriatic
Are there any lasting effect to the queen by shutting her off for this time? Will they try and get rid of her after you release her back into the hive?
hi Brian, we dont honestly know but at this time, queens are banked at different stages of their development all over the world and there seems to be no problem. Remember that queens seem to virtually stop laying over the winter and they naturally stop laying when they swarm. There may be a superecedure issue but only time will tell. The bees have access to the queen at all times.
@@richardnoel3141 I was watching the lastest Bob Binnie video last night. They discussed brood breaks like this and we're putting queens above a excluder in the hive. I think this method your doing would be better. Keeping them all together and blasting them with the acid treatment. I'm going to have to give it a try. I hate loosing bees. Too much work goes into them to loose even one colony. Thank for your videos. I watch them all and get a lot of good information. I think I've watched your grafting video about 10 times. Good stuff.
Because she’s caged so she can no longer lay eggs and therefore will not produce any brood. This is called a brood break and is one method of Varroa control. Approximately 24 days after she’s been in the cage she is released and I can treat with Oxyalic Acid. The mites are by this time all phoretic and you get about 98% of them in one hit! The cage stays in the colony all the time and can also be used to confine the queens if she gets swarmy. I like to find the queen anyway so I know she does not leave the hive via the nuc split.
I just saw that on another channel (Bob Binnie) but he took the queen out and put her frame in another nuc for a few weeks then did a treatment. Then they added the frame into another hive. Seems like a lot of work to me.
I like watching your videos. I live in the New England area of the USA. It's fun seeing the little things you do that are different. I think I will stick with my American style colored cell cups but love some of the other gadgets you have access to...
I agree with John Baddest Bees. Awesome video!!!! Wham bam thank you mam sounds like a quick ride through a truck stop !! Lol!!!
I like that you show real beekeeping instead of the perfect way set up for you tube, because nobody can do it that way all the time, and this is actually how it usually is!
I was whayting for this video since i started watching YT. It's the most important video of the year.. finally !! an english speaking brood break 😁. Much better than my wrong spelled long comments about it
@@researcherAmateur I thought of you soon as he caged that queen
Great video Richard Thank you 👑👍👍👍🐝👍
I am also using the Italian cages (day 9). Are you planning to remove the cages or leave them in all the time? Also my colonies were 50/50 on making queen cells. I'm going to release my queens at day 16 for a 3 day treatment window (I have very little drone brood).
Hi Richard! How will you treat the Varroa in the nucs that you have made? If you put a mated queen in that will be released in just a couple days and be laying relatively quickly, you aren't getting the 24 day brood break that you are in the bigger colonies. How do you account for this?
Yes definitely, I they are essentially full of varroa. So I try and vape all my nucs after the queens have been released and as they start laying, but also after the old brood has hatched, however this year they are also getting one Amitraze strip per hive. (Apivar)
11:58 you actually put queen excluder 😂😁😁👍 Great video with good explanation! Good job.
Ha well spotted the queen excluder is not needed when the queen is caged!! 💯👌🏻🐝🐝🐝
Is the exact time of this work at the beginning of the main stream of nectar? With this ka, more honey is produced?
Great timing.. the condicions look really good for it. I like how they prepare the brood box for new brood in the dearth.. make everything ready for the queen.
I did it in juli. Now we whayt for ivy pollen to save us from the 3 month long dearth and drought.
I think you're working too much.. double-excluding 😁
Love to watching you, especially now You sorted it out including sound recordings
Why did you cage the queen bee in the existing colony?
this gives the queen a forced period where she cannot lay. a brood break followed by varroa treatment will get virtually all the mites.
Excellent.
what happened to the VSH queens you were trying
Hi Richard, we also do brood brake with or without cage in Italy in this period, have you ever tried to put the queen in a upper box over a queen excluder, along with only a frame full of brood in different stages, between dividers? With this method the queen never stops to lay during the 21 days and much of the varroa will be in the frame full of capped brood where the queen was that at this point is melted.
I've seen that you also work with boxes of 5 frames over 5, I did it last year in that configuration and everything worked fine to the exception of some queen cells made, but i think this happens with the cage method also.
Let me know if you have experience and suggestions, thanks for your work.
Hi, i have not tried the other methods, to me to work properly it has to be all or nothing and thats why i have chosen to try these cages, any other configuration that has brood would mean destroying good brood that i dont agree with or not actually getting all the mites due to small amounts of brood elsewhere. I think trying this suits my operation well because were only have two nectar flows each year then after that were basically done for the season.will keep you updated.
@@richardnoel3141 You could collect the single brood frame from each hive and start several nucs. Treat them for mites differently.
@@richardnoel3141 Well, we normally use an old comb for that purpose, to enhance the comb renewal, and by melting it we also apply a mechanical threatment, because most of the varroa in the hive will invade that lonely comb with brood, and then we go on with the OA. Anyway, keep us updated, waiting for the next video.
@@JamaicaSound we tried the horizontal frame method for cuple of years.. and brood removing methods. They all work. But i always go back to the small cages that i had to make years ago when this was new. For me it's the easiest and i don't see queen problems after it. Last year we caged them for winter brood break too.
A beekeeper from ltaly told me about it .. l'm on an island in the adriatic
Are there any lasting effect to the queen by shutting her off for this time? Will they try and get rid of her after you release her back into the hive?
hi Brian, we dont honestly know but at this time, queens are banked at different stages of their development all over the world and there seems to be no problem. Remember that queens seem to virtually stop laying over the winter and they naturally stop laying when they swarm. There may be a superecedure issue but only time will tell. The bees have access to the queen at all times.
@@richardnoel3141 I was watching the lastest Bob Binnie video last night. They discussed brood breaks like this and we're putting queens above a excluder in the hive. I think this method your doing would be better. Keeping them all together and blasting them with the acid treatment. I'm going to have to give it a try. I hate loosing bees. Too much work goes into them to loose even one colony. Thank for your videos. I watch them all and get a lot of good information. I think I've watched your grafting video about 10 times. Good stuff.
Good
I don't understand why you pulled the queen and caged her in her own hive after making a split. Why?
Because she’s caged so she can no longer lay eggs and therefore will not produce any brood. This is called a brood break and is one method of Varroa control. Approximately 24 days after she’s been in the cage she is released and I can treat with Oxyalic Acid. The mites are by this time all phoretic and you get about 98% of them in one hit! The cage stays in the colony all the time and can also be used to confine the queens if she gets swarmy.
I like to find the queen anyway so I know she does not leave the hive via the nuc split.
@@richardnoel3141 got it.
I just saw that on another channel (Bob Binnie) but he took the queen out and put her frame in another nuc for a few weeks then did a treatment. Then they added the frame into another hive. Seems like a lot of work to me.
Belzabubas - kiek ons bičių sutraiška. A bitis kap moses.
You and your wonky roofs 🤔
Why cage your original Queen and return her to same hive ?
Queen can't lay eggs. This creates a capped brood break where OAV is effective in varroa control.