I've been following you for about 1/2 year, just enjoying the vids and gathering info. I'm looking to buy a boat in the next 3 years, so thank you for all you both do. Hope to see you out on the water when I get to that point! Have an awesome day!
Finally, someone put it in plain English. Thank you. You guys do a great job. And off subject a bit, love your " rants" they are informative and give me opposing viewpoints on somethings. Peace guys.
Nick, on my old boats Bimini we put 1/2 or 3/8" rubber hose in a sleeve made from sunbrella and sewed them to the bimini under the panels. It worked well. The attachment point we did different though. I like your idea. We stitched velcro to the long side of the bimini and self stick to the panels. After a season it peeled off the panel (heat I bet). But I also tied the panels together then to the bimini struts as well (hurricane and theft prevention). Also I did Series + Parallel. Series on the port/star and then Paralleled them together. I figured the boom or mast can't cast a shadow across the boat. New boat has a split stay. But I never had issues with stays. Those 100w panels have a shiny surface. PROTECT THEM WITH SOME FORM OF UV coating once a month! I didnt and my first set yellowed in 4 months. Still worked but were yellow Flitz restored the clarity - sorta. I think we used some marine UV protection spray after that... Armor all equivalent but at 10x the price.
Cheers mate, I love the Tuesday tech night even though I'm watching on thursday. We've all got systems that we're either fixing, upgrading or replacing and this one is perfect timing as im in the middle of planning a 200 watt system and new batteries, keep em coming and good luck from Rhode Island.
Series vs Parallel really depends. Each of them has its drawback. When you connect in Series and only a single cell (not speaking of a panel) gets shaded, the whole system gets affected with the result of less output. Drop your hand on a cell and look at your power meter to see the effect. On a R/V theres's less to no shade, so Series may work much better with the advantage of less cabling and smaller cable diameter. On a Sailboat there's plenty of shade around and Series usually is not the first choice. When a cell in a Parallel connection gets shaded, then only the specific panel becomes affected with all the other panels working at full throttle. There is only one disadvantage with Parallel: more and thicker cables. If you have Radar or Windgenerator mounted on your stern, go for Parallel or make sure there's no shades!
Not that I don't trust your measurements. But take in mind that they were done over days where conditions could have been different. I did the same like you and came to the complete opposite result. But I measured them at the same time. 2 in series and another 2 in parallel, two mppt controllers. Parallel won when I put my hand over a single cell. Anyway, if it works for you, all good :)
Let's see how it works out when you're at sailing or at anchorage. As said, it could work when there's no shading. Most of the roofs here in Germany covered with solar panels are connected in series. But that makes sense for all the reason I said above. If the houses were moving, they most probably would connect them in parallel. Fair Winds and thanks for all your videos. Stefanie
Sailing Yacht Ruby Rose Nice episode. Loss over the electrine line is I*I*R, so running in parallel makes current 4 times higher and loss in the lines 16 times higher, thats probably explains most of the 30%. For the same reason power(=V*I) is transported over the grid at high voltage, so to reduce current, which gives quadratically less loss in the grid.
Sailing Taku Moe Saw an interesting web site with lots of videos. I think the company is Canadian and is called Pacific Yacht Systems. Interesting way they suggest for parallel is to wire a seperate MMPT for each panel and join them at the output side just prior to the battery bank. It might make parallel work out better too. The owner/presenter has panels of different capacity everywhere on his yacht and it seems to iron out any "missmatch" issues. The point he made is that 2 half-capacity controllers cost, together, about the same as a single, combined capacity one and simplifies expansion later on too. His boat must look like a wiring octopus but probably a very tidy octopus. Extending that further, and with different charging requirements for starting (lead acid) batteries and AGM deep cycle house supply I'm wondering whether you can run a larger alternator, together with 2 external smart regulators, to suit the different charging requirements of each type (charge control switch between the 2 regulators) so you can optimally add this source to the charging systems regardless of battery type. From what I see, if you charge a lead-acid flooded battery like you charge an AGM then you inviting an explosion and charging a flooded battery like an AGM leaves it underdone. Have you heard of such a thing?
Ian B - Yes, separate MPPT's for each individual Panel would make it a optimum System. Nowadays the MPPT's are quite inexpensive and there's nothing speaking against it except the extended cabling. I for instance have a closed lead acid starting battery and 4 AGM deep cycle for service. All batteries are charged by the same system(s), which are a Sterling AB1280, Victron Multiplus 1600, Superwind 350 charge controller and Victron MPPT 150/35. They are configured for AGM Deep Cycle. The good thing is that the charging profile for AGM and Lead Acid is very similar. Bulk Voltage (to charge up to 80% of battery capacity) for AGM is gradually rising up to 14.4V - 14.8V (depending on temperature. That's why you need to temp control while charging). Well within the range of lead acid. Absorption Voltage (to fill up the remaining 20% of capacity) is around 14.4V and Float Voltage something between 13.2V (recommended for lead acid) and 13.8V (recommended for AGM). With one of these smart controllers you can adapt the charging profile accordingly and as long as they are within the range of your different battery setup, everything goes well. On the other hand, why would you run a flooded battery when there are other options, which are more safe for the same price (closed lead acid)? I've heard about accidents with open lead acid as well as with AGM, Gel and Lithium. It comes down to how much you care about your batteries. And if you want to do it right, go for LifePo4 or something in the lithium range. They cost a lot. My head starts spinning when I do the calculations, but worth spending the money if you look at the long path. More power, more cycles, short charging time, 5 time longer life time, lightweight and non-sensitive. They don't need specific charging profiles. You put in as much Amps as possible from whatever power source you have and you're done (just make sure the chargers switch off when battery is full and switch on when battery charging is required), enjoying at least 90 percent of their capacity. Last year I went for AGMs. Meanwhile I regret spending the money on them because I didn't think twice and didn't plan for the long term.
Be aware that if you are connecting more than two panels in parallel that each panel MUST be fused individually to prevent overloading and a fire if one of the panels should short out. Some paralleling splitters have fuses built into them but many do not. The way that solar installers do this on land-based installations is using a "combiner box" which has fuses in the lines and terminal strips (and sometimes diodes although most new panels have diodes built into them.) If you connect in series then there is no issue with short-circuit protection at each panel although the entire line should be fused and there be a disconnect means before the solar controller as well as a fuse/disconnect between the controller and the battery.
Great method of breaking down series vs parallel. Using simple explanations can help the novice. I think that's what you're after in these vlogs. Job well done.
Oohh fancy title production! I feel I am watching an instructional video from the mid 2000's except the host is not boring and monotone. Great simple explanations and charts! Keep it up
One of the best solar videos I have seen. My three panels (200w) not so great in not so sunny Scotland but greatly offset the need to run the engine or shore power.
Great vid especially as it’s my next project . Only thing that was pointed out to me is that if you run them in two banks with 2 chargers you cover yourself if there is a breakdown on one side and continue charging , thanks Nick
Well done Nick. And the fades between categories has been stepped up 2 notches. Not only just doing the install but having an example .. gold star on this project. As always, thanks for all the work you both put into our 15 minutes of pleasure each week. cheers
I watch your channel, and have enjoyed it. Living vicarious thru you two. But, today our paths crossed as i got a rv, and was considering solar panels to keep the battery bank topped off. Thanks for the info! Cheers.
Hey Guys. This video was perfect timing for me. Was in the process of penning out a solar system for my boat. The bar graph which showed the differentiation between parallel and series was great. That was actually the sticking point in my schematic. Glad to see you guys back on a reg basis. Fair winds.
Loved it nick! I am having new Bimini made for our boat and will show this video to the fabricator to add your connectors for the solar panels. Thanks for the explanation of the series vs parallel debate. Can't wait til the next one.
Hello Nick, Very much enjoy watching what you share. Good to see the team back together. I watched your solar panel update with great interest. Having the real world perspective of a technically astute user is very helpful. When thinking about MPPT charging, I find it helpful to remember that the objective is power in the sense of ability to do work. In this case extract maximum work potential from panels and put it into the batteries (and other loads) most effectively. Important to keep in mind is that there is a minimum voltage and power needed by the controller to begin to work. This can vary but a certain minimum voltage coming from the panel is the first thing that the controller must see before it can draw and then, as it begins to draw (current begins to flow) the voltage will sag. This is where the magic happens. The charger will adjust the load on the panels to maximize the power drawn from them - but only down to that lower voltage and current limit. The key is that a series string of panels will cross that voltage threshold more quickly in weak light to arrive at the level that the charger can begin to use. Result: The panel starts producing usable power earlier and maintains it later every day! During the middle of the day there isn't much difference between series and parallel in terms of output (shading aside). If your controller will let you, have a look at your panel production from the time of day perspective. Another thing to keep in mind when installing is that even though you can get by with smaller core wire when voltage is higher, you will still benefit a little by reducing the loss in the wire and you can add panels later in parallel even if you are at the top voltage your MPPT charger can support. Limiting the work to topside only and not having to deal with getting heavier wire below to controller is a substantial savings in time and effort. It is also worth mentioning that with the higher voltages your vigilance should increase. When dealing with potentials past about 40V you need to be extra careful. That higher voltage can push past barriers that lower voltages wont… I noticed that you used white Nylon or Delrin fasteners. Could you not find black? I am thinking of UV degradation. You don’t have much redundancy with this method and if they degrade you could loose them all at one go! Lastly, do you have the same trouble with port and starbord as you do with right and left? Just kidding of course! 2:13 into video you will see what I mean;-)) Keep up the good work and we'll be watching. Peter
I will grab some popcorn for the inevitable parallel vs series debate ;). Trying both to see what works best for each boat/environment is great advice. And for the record, I’m a big fan of the ‘blah, blah, blah’ translation of technical/marketing gibberish! Great video and looking forward to the next installment.
Not discussed is the issue of the gauge of wire being used (so called 'line loss'). Series wiring allows for use of thinner (less expensive) wire compared to parallel which requires thicker wires for a given distance.
Wonderful video, thanks! I just bought my first boat, just a little 22 footer on a lake, but I'm planning on installing a small solar panel to keep the battery charged. Can't wait to get started!
Hi guys. The ability to remain as self sufficient as possible and to remove the iron topsail from the charging equation I would strongly recommend wiring your panels in parallel. You are on a vessel that follows the wind/currents and therefore cannot have the panels moved about to best capture the suns rays. In series any partial shadow will invariably nullify all that you have aimed for. In parallel you will at least have the benefit, though slightly diminished to be able to provide some of the amperage that is required. We work in AH, replenishing it as quick as possible for the smallest loss is what’s important., the greatest voltage is not necessarily the greatest advantage. Voltage is just pressure. I like the idea of series, but experience has taught me otherwise on a boat. On a static property or an RV that you can manipulate the angles then run with series. On a boat I would beg to differ. I look forward to seeing how your setup works going forward. I do hope it serves you well and I will buy you a cheeky pint in due course if it does. Look forward to seeing you guys up here in Europe soon.
Thank you so much cause you answered the question I have had for so long. series or parallel. you made it simple and so easy to understand. this was one great video. how you mounted them was a very clever way. it also looks so much nicer. Nick thanks.
Nick - thought I would throw this out there since I recently did a flex panel install on my boat - Victron makes a Bluetooth MPPT controller now (built in, no dongle required). I also used 6 pair of rare earth magnets (25 lbs holding power each) to mount my flex panels on top of my bimini...much easier and more inexpensive than the clips, and they've held up to 45 mph without budging a bit. I purchased the "Allpower" solar panel with the non-gloss finish..they really look nice! Appreciate your videos bro...cheers.
Here are the magnets www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0748NZRJH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1 In the reviews there is a picture of my install, since then I've added another panel and used the same mounting scheme.
Seems like... with the constant/variable shade aspect of a sailboat, yet plentiful surface area to mount (real estate), amorphous panels would have been a consideration?
Excellent video Nick, you are great at taking a highly technical subject and making it all very logical and easy to understand. Well done and thank you both.
Watched this a couple of years ago and came back to it now that I'm ready to install. Great explanation of why to wire in series. Hope to see you two sailing again very soon, even though you've gone to the shady side (cat) but at least not to the totally dark side (power) Cheers!!
Nice tech Tuesday vid. Also love the gray v-neck tee. BTW, your explanation and demo of series and parallel was awesome. I was sitting here wondering how the magazine was going to play a role in explanation and I soon had my answer.
Series is the way to go. When you go parallel, you increase amperage. When you do that, it requires thicker cables which means higher costs, harder runs, bigger holes etc. In series, the amperage stays the same. You can run higher voltages on thinner wires than the other way around, cheaper wires, easier runs, smaller holes etc. "But what about shading?" You can install power optimizers on each panel. Each panel will run independently of one another and only shaded panels get effected. All this would of course have to run into the proper equipment to control it at the other end.
You read manuals like I do lol. "...yada yada yada optimized blah blah blah..." Great video and I like the special effects! I'm hoping Tech Tuesday will be a regular thing. One thing I would recommend is a cap for those plastic attachments. In direct sunlight, it won't take too long before they become brittle. Maybe the caps can be attached with some caulking. Cheers!
You could make a few more of those ravioli things, with some filling inside and put one or more under the solar panels. So you do have an airflow under the panels.
As much as I enjoy hearing about your travelling lives (more surf videos, please! Or maybe show off those Martins you keep talking about.), I really enjoy your how to videos. Very helpful and interesting. Thanks.
I'm just starting to think about solar on my boat. A concern about flexible panels on a bimini is the constant flexing due to the wind. A piece of wire can be bent into shape but repeated bending will break it. Not saying this is the case, just something to look into - which I will.
Test suggestion: hybrid! 2 blocks of 2 panels in series connected in paralell. Reason: your panels are relatively low voltage and that might have affected the parallel test when partially shaded (the affected module became lower than "12v" somewhat affecting the others.
Simple but effective illustration. How are you managing the service battery charge, starter battery charge (and maintenance charging) and alternator charging of the service battery when the engine is running with this system? I watched an Antares electrical video after their mention in your last live stream. Rather than the usual big red battery master 4 position switch, they have a smart system that prevents the starter battery being placed in parallel with the service battery and left that way to accidently drain to the point the engine won't start. I see dual input, MPPT solar and alternator battery chargers marketed to 4WDers that won't leave you with a flat battery, but all I looked at don't seem to have high voltage solar input for running panels in series which is a bummer. There are some that also detect and remove sulphate from lead plate cells to ensure long service life.
One other way of looking at the MPPT controller is to think about your car. When the engine is running and the alternator/generator is turning, it puts out voltage that is variable with respect to engine RMP, and normally higher than the 12 volts of your battery. Therefore you have a voltage regulator that will put out approximately 13.5 volts d.c. to either charge your battery or keep it on a float charge if already fully charged. (The output actually varies a bit dependent on the state of charge of the battery and the capacity of the alternator) It will not over charge your battery. The MPPT does the same thing as the voltage regulator in your solar system. It takes the variable output voltage of your solar panels and matches that with your 12 vdc battery system on you boat. It will put out as much amps as the solar panels can give to recharge your battery bank, but will not over charge your battery bank. (Most of the MPPT controller have some upper amperage limit that they can output, usually 20, 30 or 40 amps.) So, series versus parallel panel set up. As seen in the video, there are advantages to setting up in series. However one thing not discussed was what occurs during shadowing. This is one consideration you may want to think about. Putting two panels in series, with the other two in series and then putting those two sets in parallel with each other would also be an option. If one set has some shadowing, the other set would still be cranking out full power. There is no easy answer, it is really dependent on how your boat is set up, where you can put the panels such that they have the least chance of shadowing. (FYI, when you shadow a solar panel its voltage drops significantly, and that is why it is an important issue. I hope this answers any questions about this. If in doubt, as a marine electrician or your harbor master. Captain Steve, S/V Appaloosa
In my research I found the whole series Vs parallel argument is only valid with a MPPT charger, If you cheap out and get a PWM charger you kinda need to parallel to get any benefit. You're description of MPPT is pretty bang on, a PWM is a "dumb" charger so to speak, it will cut voltage to charge levels and "dispose" of the rest so you need big Amps, so in your case it would cut your 72V in down to 13.4ish and give current of whatever 1 panel is. a possible flow on effect with PWM charger is maybe needing thicker cables to carry the Amps. The lesson here is get a good MPPT like the one you guys did and for people getting set up is avoid PWM (Think PowerWastingModule). oh and be wary of cheap MPPT chargers, they can be pretty hit or miss.
Series is the best way for a simpler installation. The absolute best way in my opinion is to do each panel connected to its own micro-mppt controller. The problem with all the solar panels is the shading during the day. Even a partial shading drops the voltage down to nearly nothing. Now in Series it just drops the overall voltage going in, but some resistance is created in the circuit. Depending on which panel is shaded this can be better or worse. Kind of like a small short circuit which can be overcome. If you wire them in parallel with their own controllers there is no drop in efficiency from any non-shaded panel. Each micro-mppt controller will likely set you back from 10-30 dollars. The bad thing about this is you will have this gigantic bundle of wires that will be coming off your bimini or arch. So everything has its own drawbacks. outchasingstars.com/2015/07/04/palmetto-projects-part-4-solar/
Allyn, interesting write-up.. I'm curious if you've done any kind of real-world testing to see the differences. My big concern with running a controller per panel is all the additional wiring you have to deal with. Looking at the picture on your site, I'm curious how some of those panels show no wiring at all... how were they installed? Would love to see a video of your setup. Thanks!
@@allynonderdonk7577 gotcha, by the way, I learned that if you buy quality cells they have bypass diodes built into them, so even if you wire in series, a shaded cell won't cause resistance
good video Nick and I can see that Terysa edited this one ;-) , hope you get to meet up with some of the other big channels that are all in the Caribbean before you head off over the pound. o/
From an electrician, you did a good job explaining. Hadn't realized it was that simple, thanks.
I liked the yoga part !
I've been following you for about 1/2 year, just enjoying the vids and gathering info. I'm looking to buy a boat in the next 3 years, so thank you for all you both do. Hope to see you out on the water when I get to that point! Have an awesome day!
Finally, someone put it in plain English. Thank you. You guys do a great job. And off subject a bit, love your " rants" they are informative and give me opposing viewpoints on somethings. Peace guys.
Love the down to earth, no bullshit explanations. Please keep stuff like this coming guys!! Thank you both.
i knew i would like tech tuesday and you didn't disappoint. thanks Nick.
Nick, on my old boats Bimini we put 1/2 or 3/8" rubber hose in a sleeve made from sunbrella and sewed them to the bimini under the panels. It worked well. The attachment point we did different though. I like your idea. We stitched velcro to the long side of the bimini and self stick to the panels. After a season it peeled off the panel (heat I bet). But I also tied the panels together then to the bimini struts as well (hurricane and theft prevention).
Also I did Series + Parallel. Series on the port/star and then Paralleled them together. I figured the boom or mast can't cast a shadow across the boat.
New boat has a split stay. But I never had issues with stays.
Those 100w panels have a shiny surface. PROTECT THEM WITH SOME FORM OF UV coating once a month! I didnt and my first set yellowed in 4 months. Still worked but were yellow Flitz restored the clarity - sorta. I think we used some marine UV protection spray after that... Armor all equivalent but at 10x the price.
Hey guys. That was one of the best breakdowns of how solar works and how the controllers work that I've run upon yet. Great job!
Very well done. Simple, yet enough info to understand.
Not sweary enough, nick. A great explanation of the process and reasoning.
very educational without getting too technical. Thank you!
Cheers mate, I love the Tuesday tech night even though I'm watching on thursday. We've all got systems that we're either fixing, upgrading or replacing and this one is perfect timing as im in the middle of planning a 200 watt system and new batteries, keep em coming and good luck from Rhode Island.
Series vs Parallel really depends. Each of them has its drawback. When you connect in Series and only a single cell (not speaking of a panel) gets shaded, the whole system gets affected with the result of less output. Drop your hand on a cell and look at your power meter to see the effect. On a R/V theres's less to no shade, so Series may work much better with the advantage of less cabling and smaller cable diameter. On a Sailboat there's plenty of shade around and Series usually is not the first choice. When a cell in a Parallel connection gets shaded, then only the specific panel becomes affected with all the other panels working at full throttle. There is only one disadvantage with Parallel: more and thicker cables. If you have Radar or Windgenerator mounted on your stern, go for Parallel or make sure there's no shades!
Not that I don't trust your measurements. But take in mind that they were done over days where conditions could have been different. I did the same like you and came to the complete opposite result. But I measured them at the same time. 2 in series and another 2 in parallel, two mppt controllers. Parallel won when I put my hand over a single cell. Anyway, if it works for you, all good :)
Let's see how it works out when you're at sailing or at anchorage. As said, it could work when there's no shading. Most of the roofs here in Germany covered with solar panels are connected in series. But that makes sense for all the reason I said above. If the houses were moving, they most probably would connect them in parallel. Fair Winds and thanks for all your videos. Stefanie
Sailing Yacht Ruby Rose Nice episode. Loss over the electrine line is I*I*R, so running in parallel makes current 4 times higher and loss in the lines 16 times higher, thats probably explains most of the 30%. For the same reason power(=V*I) is transported over the grid at high voltage, so to reduce current, which gives quadratically less loss in the grid.
Sailing Taku Moe Saw an interesting web site with lots of videos. I think the company is Canadian and is called Pacific Yacht Systems. Interesting way they suggest for parallel is to wire a seperate MMPT for each panel and join them at the output side just prior to the battery bank. It might make parallel work out better too. The owner/presenter has panels of different capacity everywhere on his yacht and it seems to iron out any "missmatch" issues. The point he made is that 2 half-capacity controllers cost, together, about the same as a single, combined capacity one and simplifies expansion later on too. His boat must look like a wiring octopus but probably a very tidy octopus.
Extending that further, and with different charging requirements for starting (lead acid) batteries and AGM deep cycle house supply I'm wondering whether you can run a larger alternator, together with 2 external smart regulators, to suit the different charging requirements of each type (charge control switch between the 2 regulators) so you can optimally add this source to the charging systems regardless of battery type. From what I see, if you charge a lead-acid flooded battery like you charge an AGM then you inviting an explosion and charging a flooded battery like an AGM leaves it underdone. Have you heard of such a thing?
Ian B - Yes, separate MPPT's for each individual Panel would make it a optimum System. Nowadays the MPPT's are quite inexpensive and there's nothing speaking against it except the extended cabling.
I for instance have a closed lead acid starting battery and 4 AGM deep cycle for service. All batteries are charged by the same system(s), which are a Sterling AB1280, Victron Multiplus 1600, Superwind 350 charge controller and Victron MPPT 150/35. They are configured for AGM Deep Cycle. The good thing is that the charging profile for AGM and Lead Acid is very similar. Bulk Voltage (to charge up to 80% of battery capacity) for AGM is gradually rising up to 14.4V - 14.8V (depending on temperature. That's why you need to temp control while charging). Well within the range of lead acid. Absorption Voltage (to fill up the remaining 20% of capacity) is around 14.4V and Float Voltage something between 13.2V (recommended for lead acid) and 13.8V (recommended for AGM). With one of these smart controllers you can adapt the charging profile accordingly and as long as they are within the range of your different battery setup, everything goes well. On the other hand, why would you run a flooded battery when there are other options, which are more safe for the same price (closed lead acid)? I've heard about accidents with open lead acid as well as with AGM, Gel and Lithium. It comes down to how much you care about your batteries.
And if you want to do it right, go for LifePo4 or something in the lithium range. They cost a lot. My head starts spinning when I do the calculations, but worth spending the money if you look at the long path. More power, more cycles, short charging time, 5 time longer life time, lightweight and non-sensitive. They don't need specific charging profiles. You put in as much Amps as possible from whatever power source you have and you're done (just make sure the chargers switch off when battery is full and switch on when battery charging is required), enjoying at least 90 percent of their capacity.
Last year I went for AGMs. Meanwhile I regret spending the money on them because I didn't think twice and didn't plan for the long term.
Be aware that if you are connecting more than two panels in parallel that each panel MUST be fused individually to prevent overloading and a fire if one of the panels should short out. Some paralleling splitters have fuses built into them but many do not. The way that solar installers do this on land-based installations is using a "combiner box" which has fuses in the lines and terminal strips (and sometimes diodes although most new panels have diodes built into them.) If you connect in series then there is no issue with short-circuit protection at each panel although the entire line should be fused and there be a disconnect means before the solar controller as well as a fuse/disconnect between the controller and the battery.
Great method of breaking down series vs parallel. Using simple explanations can help the novice. I think that's what you're after in these vlogs. Job well done.
Man, so easily explained, I have book marked this for later.
Thanks kids
Thanks Nick for helping to explain this in simpler terms. It’s definitely a future endeavor on our sailboat. Always great videos!
Excellent commentary and instruction!!….
Great video. I watched this passively. will be rewatching with a notebook.
Oohh fancy title production! I feel I am watching an instructional video from the mid 2000's except the host is not boring and monotone. Great simple explanations and charts! Keep it up
One of the best solar videos I have seen. My three panels (200w) not so great in not so sunny Scotland but greatly offset the need to run the engine or shore power.
Great vid especially as it’s my next project . Only thing that was pointed out to me is that if you run them in two banks with 2 chargers you cover yourself if there is a breakdown on one side and continue charging , thanks Nick
Excellent video, fantastic using actual graph and your explanation/demonstration was superior.
Educational and food for thought. Thanks for sharing. Good job on the ravioli.
Love the solar panel yoga! Always best to start the job with a downward dog. Sk in the UK.
Really great video, can’t wait to see your video beaching the southerly 👍just because you can
Well done Nick. And the fades between categories has been stepped up 2 notches. Not only just doing the install but having an example .. gold star on this project. As always, thanks for all the work you both put into our 15 minutes of pleasure each week.
cheers
Brilliant, Nick. These technical videos are wonderful. Thank you!
I watch your channel, and have enjoyed it. Living vicarious thru you two. But, today our paths crossed as i got a rv, and was considering solar panels to keep the battery bank topped off. Thanks for the info! Cheers.
Hey Guys. This video was perfect timing for me. Was in the process of penning out a solar system for my boat. The bar graph which showed the differentiation between parallel and series was great. That was actually the sticking point in my schematic. Glad to see you guys back on a reg basis. Fair winds.
Wow guys that’s some good out of the box thinking to attach them, I did Velcro and just take them on/off I like ur way much better.
Bratwire agreed please share where you got the fasteners
Loved it nick! I am having new Bimini made for our boat and will show this video to the fabricator to add your connectors for the solar panels. Thanks for the explanation of the series vs parallel debate. Can't wait til the next one.
Hello Nick,
Very much enjoy watching what you share. Good to see the team back together.
I watched your solar panel update with great interest. Having the real world perspective of a technically astute user is very helpful.
When thinking about MPPT charging, I find it helpful to remember that the objective is power in the sense of ability to do work. In this case extract maximum work potential from panels and put it into the batteries (and other loads) most effectively.
Important to keep in mind is that there is a minimum voltage and power needed by the controller to begin to work. This can vary but a certain minimum voltage coming from the panel is the first thing that the controller must see before it can draw and then, as it begins to draw (current begins to flow) the voltage will sag. This is where the magic happens. The charger will adjust the load on the panels to maximize the power drawn from them - but only down to that lower voltage and current limit. The key is that a series string of panels will cross that voltage threshold more quickly in weak light to arrive at the level that the charger can begin to use. Result: The panel starts producing usable power earlier and maintains it later every day! During the middle of the day there isn't much difference between series and parallel in terms of output (shading aside). If your controller will let you, have a look at your panel production from the time of day perspective.
Another thing to keep in mind when installing is that even though you can get by with smaller core wire when voltage is higher, you will still benefit a little by reducing the loss in the wire and you can add panels later in parallel even if you are at the top voltage your MPPT charger can support. Limiting the work to topside only and not having to deal with getting heavier wire below to controller is a substantial savings in time and effort.
It is also worth mentioning that with the higher voltages your vigilance should increase. When dealing with potentials past about 40V you need to be extra careful. That higher voltage can push past barriers that lower voltages wont…
I noticed that you used white Nylon or Delrin fasteners. Could you not find black? I am thinking of UV degradation. You don’t have much redundancy with this method and if they degrade you could loose them all at one go!
Lastly, do you have the same trouble with port and starbord as you do with right and left? Just kidding of course! 2:13 into video you will see what I mean;-))
Keep up the good work and we'll be watching.
Peter
I actually found the Yoga was quite a help explaining it....!!!!!!..... ;-)
Also noticed some cute semi-flexible panels that have zips built into each edge. Sew the "other half" onto the bimini, along with a velcro cover....
Really good video. Helped me sort out some confusion!
I will grab some popcorn for the inevitable parallel vs series debate ;). Trying both to see what works best for each boat/environment is great advice. And for the record, I’m a big fan of the ‘blah, blah, blah’ translation of technical/marketing gibberish! Great video and looking forward to the next installment.
Not discussed is the issue of the gauge of wire being used (so called 'line loss'). Series wiring allows for use of thinner (less expensive) wire compared to parallel which requires thicker wires for a given distance.
That was another great one! Thank you again for sharing your knowledge and first hand experience! Sk in the UK
Good info peeps. Thanks. Andy UK
Nice job!
Love you both. I watch your videos as soon as I see them pop up. Always entertaining, informative and well done. Bravo, keep them coming.
Wonderful video, thanks! I just bought my first boat, just a little 22 footer on a lake, but I'm planning on installing a small solar panel to keep the battery charged. Can't wait to get started!
Hi guys. The ability to remain as self sufficient as possible and to remove the iron topsail from the charging equation I would strongly recommend wiring your panels in parallel. You are on a vessel that follows the wind/currents and therefore cannot have the panels moved about to best capture the suns rays. In series any partial shadow will invariably nullify all that you have aimed for. In parallel you will at least have the benefit, though slightly diminished to be able to provide some of the amperage that is required. We work in AH, replenishing it as quick as possible for the smallest loss is what’s important., the greatest voltage is not necessarily the greatest advantage. Voltage is just pressure. I like the idea of series, but experience has taught me otherwise on a boat. On a static property or an RV that you can manipulate the angles then run with series. On a boat I would beg to differ. I look forward to seeing how your setup works going forward. I do hope it serves you well and I will buy you a cheeky pint in due course if it does. Look forward to seeing you guys up here in Europe soon.
Thank you so much cause you answered the question I have had for so long. series or parallel. you made it simple and so easy to understand. this was one great video. how you mounted them was a very clever way. it also looks so much nicer. Nick thanks.
Cue Mr Burns voice "Excellent" .......Love the new intro for the new Tech Tues too
Well done.
I teach electronics and you did a brilliant job
Thx for sharing, I enjoy the tech Tuesday’s.
Well laid out. Love the app. Will pass that on.
Loving technical Tuesday
Nick - thought I would throw this out there since I recently did a flex panel install on my boat - Victron makes a Bluetooth MPPT controller now (built in, no dongle required). I also used 6 pair of rare earth magnets (25 lbs holding power each) to mount my flex panels on top of my bimini...much easier and more inexpensive than the clips, and they've held up to 45 mph without budging a bit. I purchased the "Allpower" solar panel with the non-gloss finish..they really look nice!
Appreciate your videos bro...cheers.
Here are the magnets
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0748NZRJH/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
In the reviews there is a picture of my install, since then I've added another panel and used the same mounting scheme.
Seems like... with the constant/variable shade aspect of a sailboat, yet plentiful surface area to mount (real estate), amorphous panels would have been a consideration?
Thanks. Always appreciate the technical videos, always learn a lot.
Really enjoyed the solar panel video thank you and think the control box is a great piece of kit. Keep it coming
Excellent video, thank you!
Well done as always! Both the explanation of the solar and the yoga!😁
Best solar video !
Great explanation, thank you bruv!
No problem!
Excellent video Nick, you are great at taking a highly technical subject and making it all very logical and easy to understand. Well done and thank you both.
Watched this a couple of years ago and came back to it now that I'm ready to install. Great explanation of why to wire in series. Hope to see you two sailing again very soon, even though you've gone to the shady side (cat) but at least not to the totally dark side (power) Cheers!!
Very good and simplicity is efficiency in explanations
Great information
Great Video Guys. I enjoy the Tech. Vid's way more than I thought I would.
Nice tech Tuesday vid. Also love the gray v-neck tee.
BTW, your explanation and demo of series and parallel was awesome. I was sitting here wondering how the magazine was going to play a role in explanation and I soon had my answer.
Great Video, well explained!! Looking forward to more of this type. Sorry nothing annoyed you we didn't get to enjoy any meltdowns.
Good points simply made well done Ant & Cid x
Series is the way to go. When you go parallel, you increase amperage. When you do that, it requires thicker cables which means higher costs, harder runs, bigger holes etc. In series, the amperage stays the same. You can run higher voltages on thinner wires than the other way around, cheaper wires, easier runs, smaller holes etc. "But what about shading?" You can install power optimizers on each panel. Each panel will run independently of one another and only shaded panels get effected. All this would of course have to run into the proper equipment to control it at the other end.
You read manuals like I do lol. "...yada yada yada optimized blah blah blah..." Great video and I like the special effects! I'm hoping Tech Tuesday will be a regular thing. One thing I would recommend is a cap for those plastic attachments. In direct sunlight, it won't take too long before they become brittle. Maybe the caps can be attached with some caulking. Cheers!
When you wake up one morning and a panel has blown off in the middle of the night, I want you to think of me lol.
Liked this just for the ravioli 🤣 great idea guys 🥳
Excellent as always! Thanks guys
One way to solve the serie or paralel quetion, is to put 2 smaller MPPT, one for each solar panel.
Love the intro to this vlog. 👍
Thank you. This was an informative video and I really like the way you edited out the repetitive parts :)
You could make a few more of those ravioli things, with some filling inside and put one or more under the solar panels. So you do have an airflow under the panels.
Well then they just have to live with the heat.
It's just a small loss on output.
Really like this kind of video's (nice editing)
As much as I enjoy hearing about your travelling lives (more surf videos, please! Or maybe show off those Martins you keep talking about.), I really enjoy your how to videos. Very helpful and interesting. Thanks.
I'm just starting to think about solar on my boat. A concern about flexible panels on a bimini is the constant flexing due to the wind. A piece of wire can be bent into shape but repeated bending will break it. Not saying this is the case, just something to look into - which I will.
Great vid. great ravioli, shame it wasn't the eating kind ! thanks for sharing your thoughts! look forward to the next vid. :)
Great Video Nick. Cheers
thanks
Good info Nick! Keep 'em coming! Cheers!
Some-one has been learning how to use Adobe effects. haha! Nicely edited bit of work.
Test suggestion: hybrid! 2 blocks of 2 panels in series connected in paralell.
Reason: your panels are relatively low voltage and that might have affected the parallel test when partially shaded (the affected module became lower than "12v" somewhat affecting the others.
Great info and well explained! Thanks!
great video and very kind of to take time to do that forus , im hoping to get boat next year also , so i ejoy you channel very much, God bless
Simple but effective illustration. How are you managing the service battery charge, starter battery charge (and maintenance charging) and alternator charging of the service battery when the engine is running with this system? I watched an Antares electrical video after their mention in your last live stream. Rather than the usual big red battery master 4 position switch, they have a smart system that prevents the starter battery being placed in parallel with the service battery and left that way to accidently drain to the point the engine won't start. I see dual input, MPPT solar and alternator battery chargers marketed to 4WDers that won't leave you with a flat battery, but all I looked at don't seem to have high voltage solar input for running panels in series which is a bummer. There are some that also detect and remove sulphate from lead plate cells to ensure long service life.
Nice explanation for the non geeks Nick! Well done! PEACE OUT! Ü
Sun glasses shadow makes it look like your weari ng a beanie with a propeller. Lol
As always love you channel
Another great video thanks !
As usual vary helpful and clear. Thanks
One other way of looking at the MPPT controller is to think about your car. When the engine is running and the alternator/generator is turning, it puts out voltage that is variable with respect to engine RMP, and normally higher than the 12 volts of your battery. Therefore you have a voltage regulator that will put out approximately 13.5 volts d.c. to either charge your battery or keep it on a float charge if already fully charged. (The output actually varies a bit dependent on the state of charge of the battery and the capacity of the alternator) It will not over charge your battery.
The MPPT does the same thing as the voltage regulator in your solar system. It takes the variable output voltage of your solar panels and matches that with your 12 vdc battery system on you boat. It will put out as much amps as the solar panels can give to recharge your battery bank, but will not over charge your battery bank. (Most of the MPPT controller have some upper amperage limit that they can output, usually 20, 30 or 40 amps.)
So, series versus parallel panel set up. As seen in the video, there are advantages to setting up in series. However one thing not discussed was what occurs during shadowing. This is one consideration you may want to think about. Putting two panels in series, with the other two in series and then putting those two sets in parallel with each other would also be an option. If one set has some shadowing, the other set would still be cranking out full power. There is no easy answer, it is really dependent on how your boat is set up, where you can put the panels such that they have the least chance of shadowing. (FYI, when you shadow a solar panel its voltage drops significantly, and that is why it is an important issue.
I hope this answers any questions about this. If in doubt, as a marine electrician or your harbor master.
Captain Steve, S/V Appaloosa
In my research I found the whole series Vs parallel argument is only valid with a MPPT charger, If you cheap out and get a PWM charger you kinda need to parallel to get any benefit. You're description of MPPT is pretty bang on, a PWM is a "dumb" charger so to speak, it will cut voltage to charge levels and "dispose" of the rest so you need big Amps, so in your case it would cut your 72V in down to 13.4ish and give current of whatever 1 panel is. a possible flow on effect with PWM charger is maybe needing thicker cables to carry the Amps. The lesson here is get a good MPPT like the one you guys did and for people getting set up is avoid PWM (Think PowerWastingModule). oh and be wary of cheap MPPT chargers, they can be pretty hit or miss.
First technical Tuesday I have seen and I like it. Like that you even went as far as to describe the mounting system. Ingenious. Kudos.
Series is the best way for a simpler installation. The absolute best way in my opinion is to do each panel connected to its own micro-mppt controller. The problem with all the solar panels is the shading during the day. Even a partial shading drops the voltage down to nearly nothing. Now in Series it just drops the overall voltage going in, but some resistance is created in the circuit. Depending on which panel is shaded this can be better or worse. Kind of like a small short circuit which can be overcome. If you wire them in parallel with their own controllers there is no drop in efficiency from any non-shaded panel. Each micro-mppt controller will likely set you back from 10-30 dollars. The bad thing about this is you will have this gigantic bundle of wires that will be coming off your bimini or arch. So everything has its own drawbacks. outchasingstars.com/2015/07/04/palmetto-projects-part-4-solar/
Allyn, interesting write-up.. I'm curious if you've done any kind of real-world testing to see the differences. My big concern with running a controller per panel is all the additional wiring you have to deal with. Looking at the picture on your site, I'm curious how some of those panels show no wiring at all... how were they installed? Would love to see a video of your setup. Thanks!
@@brois841 Not my site, but they can be pulled underneath if the panel has the wires underneath. Some are on top, on the side, or underneath.
@@allynonderdonk7577 gotcha, by the way, I learned that if you buy quality cells they have bypass diodes built into them, so even if you wire in series, a shaded cell won't cause resistance
good video Nick and I can see that Terysa edited this one ;-) , hope you get to meet up with some of the other big channels that are all in the Caribbean before you head off over the pound. o/
you are getting better then friend o7
hello very good Inf on the solar panels thanks
Love the video and detail! The flickering titling sequences are annoying though ;)
That was good. I'm stupid with this and I understood what you were saying
How did you run the wiring from the panels below deck? Presumably, you didn’t put a hole in the deck? Great video by the way!
really useful thanks Nick