Thank you very much for your ingenuity! This is exactly what I needed for our basement! We have an old drop ceiling, and now we have an idea how to make it look how we want, but access it like we need! SWEET!
I, too, am confused. I didn’t install any outlets in the laundry room video. I simply replaced the bare bulb with the long LED light fixture. Is that what you’re asking me about?
Just found your video. I'd like to use 4x4 sheet rock for the panels and I understand they might sag. Can strips of back strapping be used in the same manner you did?
Very nice, but……. You took down a plaster ceiling that probably weighed half per square foot as the wood you are replacing it with and then you removed half of the already not adequately installed Cieling Joists. Then used brads (not even a full-fledged finishing nail) that’s meant for light weight molding instead of Screws or even 3”Ring Shank nails to support the framing and load. You probably did not use 404 Stainless Steel Brads so in 10 - 30 years when they rust and then snap or slip from wood expansion and contraction you can explain to whomever goes to the hospital that you never read about Physics, Engineering, Math or Logic or took a Building Trades Class, etc. But other than that, it’s a great idea and looks good. Now go drive some proper fasteners to beef it up.
Thanks for this different perspective. We caulked around the whole frame against the walls so that’ll hold it if the nails don’t. They were 16 gauge galvanized finish nails, btw.
They didn't remove any ceiling joists, they basically removed the equivalent of strapping that appeared to have been put in place with the anticipation of drywall.
Good idea. However, I'm wondering about the framing only be attached to the ceiling with brads, and then also supporting the load of the panels? Seems screws might be in order there. Any issues in the year since? Thanks.
Wonderful. I’ve been fiddling with options like this only using beadboard sheets. Two questions: (1) About how much clearance would you estimate is needed to be able to slip in the panels? I’m working with bare joists and want to maximize ceiling height, so I won’t want my bracing pieces to only come down as much as needed. (2) What gauge nail did you use to secure the frame strips? 16?
Thanks. You gave me additional useful info, but I was asking about something else. Since I’m working with bare joists, what is the minimum clearance between the bottom of the joists and the bottom of the ceiling framing that I would need to get the panels up and in. I’m guessing two inches would be sufficient, but I don’t want to be stuck not able to get the panels in. Hope that is clearer. Thanks again.
@AT-oj7of I think it depends on the size of the panel and the size of the opening. I think you’ll need more than 2”. Even a normal drop ceiling needs 4”.
Nice job! I was wondering about the light removal, though. If the bare-bulb fixture was turned into a junction box, does that have to be more accessible than behind a removable panel? I know the code (and interpretation of it) varies from place to place.
Looks beautiful. Can you comment on the dimensions of the panel because I don’t understand how the panels are big enough sit on perimeter of the 1x6 but small enough to fit through the hole?
Yeah sorry I didn’t talk about that. We made them 3/4” bigger in both directions so they overlap around 3/8” on all four sides. I’ll add this in the video description. Thanks.
BIG Upgrade to the house that will go a long way on resale. People love their laundry rooms! 👍🏼 Also, just how bad did you dust the car! Please ask Josh if he had a nice trip for me 😂
Thank you very much for your ingenuity! This is exactly what I needed for our basement! We have an old drop ceiling, and now we have an idea how to make it look how we want, but access it like we need! SWEET!
Glad it was helpful
Wonderfull Chris , that good idea to make laundry room so good
Thanks 😊
Hey , Chris can you made a video how to install outlet and which wire must use , because i want to know
This one talks about different wire sizes. ruclips.net/video/CyjrGgmDqq4/видео.html
I am Confused, because in this video we must know which wire you use , this really made me confused
I, too, am confused. I didn’t install any outlets in the laundry room video. I simply replaced the bare bulb with the long LED light fixture. Is that what you’re asking me about?
Amazing work guys!
Thanks 😊
This is really well done!!!!
Thanks 😊
👍 Great idea. I've been looking for something like this for an area in the basement. Thx ☕️
Love the look, but I like the fire barrier of Sheetrock and some suspended ceilings.
I agree. But there never was a ceiling above the furnace so partial drywall wouldn’t provide any better protection.
Great job!
Thanks 😊
Just found your video. I'd like to use 4x4 sheet rock for the panels and I understand they might sag. Can strips of back strapping be used in the same manner you did?
I think that’d work.
Curious if you considered sheet rock for the panels? I read that there's some concern about them failing over time. Thanks for sharing!
We didn’t consider drywall panels because we wanted to match the plank ceiling in the family room.
Love it!
Thanks 😊
Very nice, but……. You took down a plaster ceiling that probably weighed half per square foot as the wood you are replacing it with and then you removed half of the already not adequately installed Cieling Joists. Then used brads (not even a full-fledged finishing nail) that’s meant for light weight molding instead of Screws or even 3”Ring Shank nails to support the framing and load. You probably did not use 404 Stainless Steel Brads so in 10 - 30 years when they rust and then snap or slip from wood expansion and contraction you can explain to whomever goes to the hospital that you never read about Physics, Engineering, Math or Logic or took a Building Trades Class, etc. But other than that, it’s a great idea and looks good. Now go drive some proper fasteners to beef it up.
Thanks for this different perspective. We caulked around the whole frame against the walls so that’ll hold it if the nails don’t. They were 16 gauge galvanized finish nails, btw.
They didn't remove any ceiling joists, they basically removed the equivalent of strapping that appeared to have been put in place with the anticipation of drywall.
@@DenverBronx12 lol and the dude above thinks pine 1Xs weighs more than 5/8s drywall.
Good idea. However, I'm wondering about the framing only be attached to the ceiling with brads, and then also supporting the load of the panels? Seems screws might be in order there. Any issues in the year since? Thanks.
Good point, but I used 3” finish nails and a lot of them. It hasn’t moved.
@@handydadtv Nice, glad to hear it, and thanks for the response!
Love the series intro haha. Came here from the wedding ring video, new subscriber!
Thanks for subscribing! Welcome to the family! 👍🏻
Wonderful. I’ve been fiddling with options like this only using beadboard sheets. Two questions: (1) About how much clearance would you estimate is needed to be able to slip in the panels? I’m working with bare joists and want to maximize ceiling height, so I won’t want my bracing pieces to only come down as much as needed. (2) What gauge nail did you use to secure the frame strips? 16?
(1) I think we added 3/4” in both directions so there would be a 3/8” overlap on the frame.
(2) Yes 16 gauge.
Thanks. You gave me additional useful info, but I was asking about something else. Since I’m working with bare joists, what is the minimum clearance between the bottom of the joists and the bottom of the ceiling framing that I would need to get the panels up and in. I’m guessing two inches would be sufficient, but I don’t want to be stuck not able to get the panels in. Hope that is clearer. Thanks again.
@AT-oj7of I think it depends on the size of the panel and the size of the opening. I think you’ll need more than 2”. Even a normal drop ceiling needs 4”.
Thanks again. Yep, going with 4 1/4” (3.5 for the 4-by and .75 for the 1-by). That’s the clearance that the old drop ceiling had.
Love this really nice !
Thanks 😊
Nice job! I was wondering about the light removal, though. If the bare-bulb fixture was turned into a junction box, does that have to be more accessible than behind a removable panel? I know the code (and interpretation of it) varies from place to place.
I’ve seen junction boxes above drop ceilings. This is no different IMO.
Looks beautiful. Can you comment on the dimensions of the panel because I don’t understand how the panels are big enough sit on perimeter of the 1x6 but small enough to fit through the hole?
Yeah sorry I didn’t talk about that. We made them 3/4” bigger in both directions so they overlap around 3/8” on all four sides. I’ll add this in the video description. Thanks.
I’m goin to use Wainscoting panels
That’ll work too.
Great video
Thanks so much 😊
Do u think removing those 2x4 compromises the building structure ?
No. They weren’t structural. They were just holding the drywall ceiling which we removed long ago.
BIG Upgrade to the house that will go a long way on resale. People love their laundry rooms! 👍🏼 Also, just how bad did you dust the car! Please ask Josh if he had a nice trip for me 😂
😂 yeah the cars were pretty dusty!
Prays the lord brother I love your videos
Thanks
Hey guys good work 💪. But remove the exposed nails, it wouldn't of taken a minute. Recycle products is good 👍
Thanks 👍🏻
😃
Thanks