Great video! Thanks. It adds more confidence to try this out on my nurcery stock maple that I got for cheap - instead of wasting half a tree I want to air-layer it. Perhaps, I may be too greedy... :)
Thank you Yevhen! When it comes to Japanese maples, there should be no other thought than air layering. It's so easy to get two (or more) trees from one purchase, it is a no brainer. Definatly go for it and you will be glad you had the patience! Cheers!
It is, right? Thank you! I have unfortunately lost the tree I air layered in the forest. I guess, the turbulence of the car ride destroyed the roots and the tree soon succumbed...
@@ArkefthosBonsai Sad to hear, atleast you have a superbe video to remember the tree by. Love your honesty - looking forward to your next upload. Cheers
Not only remember but copy as well. I was excited about the resulting twin trunk air layer. Had really nice movement, I will try to replicate with another. Thank you!
Insane amount of roots in 2.5 months! 🤩 how do you find the balance of enough foliage to do that....but not too much so that the tree doesn't struggle with the small amount of roots produced by the air layer? It would help to see the amount of foliage in these videos for context please and thank you!
Here is what I know Wesley. The bigger the air layer, the more roots you are going to get. This was a 3 meter (9ft) tall air layer, which is insane. The more foliage a Japanese maple has, the more roots you are going to get. Separated in late August, there is enough time to grow these roots before winter. Very airated, aggricate substrate, the tree needs to sit onto the ground, into a ceramic pot and be completely still until next spring (when this image was taken). And one last thing, it helps that the tree that gave this and more air layers was planted in the ground since 2012. Ground trees are stronger and give more roots. I'm shooting a video about this air layer that will come out in May. Cheers!
Do you seal the bottom of the plant with a paste or sealant or something? The very bottom of the air layer, where it was removed from the parent tree, what happens to that part? Does it naturally cause over, or is rot a concern?
When I remove the air layer, I include the bare trunk for the first potting, which is useless. I use a very fast draining, well aireted, inorganic mix, so rot is never an issue. Next spring, or the one after that, I do the first repotting, I work the roots for the first time and I remove the dead part completely, all the way up to the nebari. Never needed to seal the bottom. Cheers!
That is fantastic. This I year I tried my first 5 bigger air-layers on a local maple tree. I have seperated 3 and they have roots just like yours. The other two I am seperating today. My only query is: do you see any problem with using sphagnum moss as the medium to take them through to next spring? A few well known professionals suggest it aids root development in this early stage. I am happy experimenting but wanted to know if you had tried this or had any feelings about it? thanks for another great video, Xav.
Thank you Xavier! Look, yes it does help with root development, however, as the roots grow through the moss, next spring you will have a very difficult time removing it. Plus the soil I'm using helps greatly in root development as it is inorganic aggricates that do not break down so aeration stays optimal. I would avoid moss after you grow roots from the air layer as it can become pain in the a§§ to remove later. You should try it though and get your own results. Good luck on your air layers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai Is it the porosity of the soil you use that let's you bury the plant so deep? I thought the mandate not to cover the root crown area was to prevent moisture damage to the lower bark, but perhaps you don't see moisture stay high enough in your plantings to cause problems?
Definatly never cover the lower trunk of the tree with soil as it's not resistant to constant humidity BUT 1st this is an air layer with weak root system that should not dry out for the next 3 months and 2nd yes, as you mentioned, the soil I'm using is 90% inorganic 3-5mm in size, although it will keep some humidity under it, air circulation is optimal and the trunk tissue will have no issues.. In April this nebari will be higher in the next pot. Cheers!
Please enable captions!
Great video! Thanks. It adds more confidence to try this out on my nurcery stock maple that I got for cheap - instead of wasting half a tree I want to air-layer it. Perhaps, I may be too greedy... :)
Thank you Yevhen! When it comes to Japanese maples, there should be no other thought than air layering. It's so easy to get two (or more) trees from one purchase, it is a no brainer. Definatly go for it and you will be glad you had the patience! Cheers!
Great resulta and great explanations. Its fundamental to actívate subtitles. Thanks a lot.
Thank you my friend!
Very good result, you know something about plants!
Thank you! Trial and error...
Άλλο ένα πολύ προσεγμένο βίντεο! Εξαιρετική δουλειά, μπράβο.
Σε ευχαριστώ Άγγελε!
Τα αγαπημένα μου δέντρα!! Μπράβο!!
Αγαπημένο είδος! Ευχαριστώ Χρήστο!
The nebari of the second airlayer truely is glorious. Wow!
Any updates on the airlayer you did in the woods?
It is, right? Thank you! I have unfortunately lost the tree I air layered in the forest. I guess, the turbulence of the car ride destroyed the roots and the tree soon succumbed...
@@ArkefthosBonsai Sad to hear, atleast you have a superbe video to remember the tree by. Love your honesty - looking forward to your next upload. Cheers
Not only remember but copy as well. I was excited about the resulting twin trunk air layer. Had really nice movement, I will try to replicate with another. Thank you!
Insane amount of roots in 2.5 months! 🤩 how do you find the balance of enough foliage to do that....but not too much so that the tree doesn't struggle with the small amount of roots produced by the air layer? It would help to see the amount of foliage in these videos for context please and thank you!
Here is what I know Wesley. The bigger the air layer, the more roots you are going to get. This was a 3 meter (9ft) tall air layer, which is insane. The more foliage a Japanese maple has, the more roots you are going to get. Separated in late August, there is enough time to grow these roots before winter. Very airated, aggricate substrate, the tree needs to sit onto the ground, into a ceramic pot and be completely still until next spring (when this image was taken). And one last thing, it helps that the tree that gave this and more air layers was planted in the ground since 2012. Ground trees are stronger and give more roots. I'm shooting a video about this air layer that will come out in May. Cheers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai thank you! can't wait to see it :)
Do you seal the bottom of the plant with a paste or sealant or something? The very bottom of the air layer, where it was removed from the parent tree, what happens to that part? Does it naturally cause over, or is rot a concern?
When I remove the air layer, I include the bare trunk for the first potting, which is useless. I use a very fast draining, well aireted, inorganic mix, so rot is never an issue. Next spring, or the one after that, I do the first repotting, I work the roots for the first time and I remove the dead part completely, all the way up to the nebari. Never needed to seal the bottom. Cheers!
That is fantastic. This I year I tried my first 5 bigger air-layers on a local maple tree. I have seperated 3 and they have roots just like yours. The other two I am seperating today. My only query is: do you see any problem with using sphagnum moss as the medium to take them through to next spring? A few well known professionals suggest it aids root development in this early stage. I am happy experimenting but wanted to know if you had tried this or had any feelings about it? thanks for another great video, Xav.
Thank you Xavier! Look, yes it does help with root development, however, as the roots grow through the moss, next spring you will have a very difficult time removing it. Plus the soil I'm using helps greatly in root development as it is inorganic aggricates that do not break down so aeration stays optimal. I would avoid moss after you grow roots from the air layer as it can become pain in the a§§ to remove later. You should try it though and get your own results. Good luck on your air layers!
@@ArkefthosBonsai thanksvthat sits in with what i thought. I might do the last two in vermiculite and kittidama😁
@@ArkefthosBonsai Is it the porosity of the soil you use that let's you bury the plant so deep? I thought the mandate not to cover the root crown area was to prevent moisture damage to the lower bark, but perhaps you don't see moisture stay high enough in your plantings to cause problems?
Definatly never cover the lower trunk of the tree with soil as it's not resistant to constant humidity BUT 1st this is an air layer with weak root system that should not dry out for the next 3 months and 2nd yes, as you mentioned, the soil I'm using is 90% inorganic 3-5mm in size, although it will keep some humidity under it, air circulation is optimal and the trunk tissue will have no issues.. In April this nebari will be higher in the next pot. Cheers!
Nebari prometedor.
Salud.
Thank you! In a few days I will repot this again and we will check the progress!
Growth it good.
Thank you!