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Short answer is no. but. Long answer is no due to the fact the rotors run the handbrake system internally and there are fitment issues due to the bolt spacing for the calipers being different, unlike the fronts that have the same spacing just different diameter bolts. Have seen adapters and such at times but generally the gains just aren't worth the effort, best to stick to a good rotor, pads and braided lines combo on the back with the stock calipers and rotor size and focus on improving the front with the benefits that the 350mm Evo 10 rotors bring.

Okay thanks much bro

@@Juz10xD no, as far as I know it just displays the canbus stream from the ecu

@@ANakh-t2l they don't have an actual website, contact them via their Facebook page (pm them) facebook.com/wkmotorsportlc?mibextid=ZbWKwL

Any tax or customs shipped to uk??

@@ANakh-t2l I'm not sure,, but if it's anything like shipping to Australia then probably, vat or something, tax man has always got his hands in your pockets.

@@jethrox827 certainly was one of the prime candidates, very good clutches. I did actually install the NPC clutch I mentioned in the vid, lying under the car with it sitting up on jack stands. Promised myself I'd never do that again.

@@davidbrantley2464 Thanks David 👍

So this is just my own recipe, which is 1 part diesel, 1 part isopropyl alcohol and 0.5 parts injector cleaner. So, as an example, 500ml of diesel, 500ml of isopropyl alcohol and 250ml of injector cleaner.

You can use the same lines as you use on an CT (7,8,9) Evo. I had aftermarket Goodridge braided lines hooked up to my oem Evo 9 calipers and used the same lines on the Evo 10 calipers.

yes, even though it's only a 2.4" to 2.8" screen size difference it does make a big difference in the available screen real estate

Well, I guess, although personally I feel videos without any background music are a bit sterile, and I have like 30,000 views of my videos (very small fry I know) and you're the first person to even mention the music, but duly noted, maybe I need to be more careful with the type (less percussion) and the volume. Cheers

Really scary, hence why every pump installed in my car gets checked before installation, only takes a few minutes and it could definitely save your motor.

no, issues, still working fine, used it a month or so ago as part of the regular service on my Evo, still working the same as when I first purchased it

@@ausevovideo6514that’s good to know ! Appreciate your reply

it wasn't real good, pretty disappointing to see from a reputable brand

@@ausevovideo6514 Some brands make bushes way too soft so they're easy for a novice to install. Not good.

it's bolts to a piece of 90x90mm aluminium box section that's bolted to a flat piece of aluminium bar that is attached to the original mounting locations for the battery tray on top of the top gearbox mount bracket.

no, not without custom hubs, way to much work and expense for the benefit provided

there's two factors to think about when it comes to the improvement that installing a bigger rotor brings, heat and leverage. A bigger rotor has more mass so it distributes any heat building up over a larger area, hence your rotors will run cooler... but... you're also increasing the rotational mass because you've got a bigger spinning disk to contend with, so the advantage in this respect is probably not there by only changing the rotor size from 350 to 355mm. Second is the leverage you have, but this doesn't change when you change the rotor size, only when you change the position of the pads, because the swept area is the same, you could, in theory, install a 500mm rotor, but if the pads are only touching in the same place as a 350mm rotor you've got the same leverage against rotation (actually you'd be worse off because now you're trying to stop a larger rotational mass with the bigger rotor). The only way to improve the braking power by installing bigger rotors is to increase the caliper (pad) distance from the centre, so you'd be back to installing brackets to move the caliper further out from the hub, which is very difficult to do, if not impossible (as it's impossible (afaik) to use brackets with CT Evo calipers so you can use bigger rotors than the oem 320mm units). So to conclude, no, it's not possible, or even advantageous, to use bigger rotors than the 350mm units on your CT Evo with the Evo 10 caliper mod.

not a bad idea, maybe 20 micron or something, nothing too fine as you might loose enough pressure pushing fuel through the filter to affect the function of the injectors.

@@ausevovideo6514 I guess as long as the gauge is after the filter you can always adjust if it's not enough may need to remove the filter,

@@mrvic92154 also depends on the size of the injectors your running, my 1700's are pushing the standard pump about as far as it'll go, flow wise, if you're running smaller injectors in it you'll have more available pressure to push the cleaning fluid through a filter as well as the injectors. There's also the option of replacing the pump with a higher flowing unit, something like a Walbro 255 or similar, which would give you more pressure for a finer filter as well as bigger injectors.

no, unfortunately not, the circumference of the rotor is outside the swept area of the caliper and the difference isn't great enough to use a dog bone spacer. I did investigate this quiet extensively, just no way to do it unfortunately,, best option is to keep an eye out for a cheap set of 10 front rotors and do what I did.

yeah, definitely an improvement, less force needed on the pedal to get the same amount of deceleration compared to the 9's caliper, and they feel a little easier to modulate than the CT's brakes, you seem to have a better idea of how much pedal force you need to apply to achieve a certain degree of force at the caliper. It's a worthwhile upgrade.

Thats great feedback and really much appreciated. 👍

So there's two parts to the unit, the ultrasonic cleaner on top and the injector cleaner/tester. When you pull the injectors from your car drop them in the ultrasonic cleaner and run them through a 10 minute cycle with enough fluid to cover them in the bath. Pull them out of there after the 10 minutes and install them in the holder above the tubes. Drain the liquid out of the ultrasonic bath and dispose of it. So now the injectors are pretty clean anyway so when you run the liquid through them it's only removing minimal amount of crap from inside them, so the liquid in the internal tank doesn't really get contaminated to any great degree. So to sum it up, toss the liquid in the ultrasonic bath and keep the liquid in the internal tank, at least for maybe 3 or 4 cleanings of your injectors.

it probably won't be a problem for me, it's kept in a cupboard out of the sun and gets used probably 2 or 3 times a year, but for someone planning on using it more regularly it might be something to keep in mind. I'd suggest mines already paid for itself at this stage, at $80 to $100 for an injector clean and test it doesn't take long to cover the purchase price.

that's a good question, I'm not sure, I'm kinda thinking my 1700's might be the limit with the supplied pump installed, to get more flow for bigger injectors you might need to replace the pump with something like a Walbro 255, which shouldn't be too hard to do as the supplied pump looks like a similar size.

@@ausevovideo6514 thats cool mate I already have a spare one of those I think. I guess could also just do 2 or 3 injectors at a time instead of 4 to get the same results right?

@@mikey13b definitely, there are blanking plugs supplied, so close off the two outside injector positions and run two at a time on the two inside ones, bit slower of course, but it would do the job just fine.

@@ausevovideo6514 thanks legend

So the site is just my Facebook group, Aus Evo, which is what all these videos are made for, feel free to join up if you have a Facebook account, there's a few questions you need to answer to join, but nothing too difficult, just use them to weed out the endless spam accounts.

so my new coil setup is a CDI setup, capacitor discharge ignition, totally different setup compared to traditional coils like Densos etc. It uses a capacitor to store electrical energy (that's in that box along with a pile of electronics) that gets sent to the coils after receiving a signal from the ecu. A Denso coil normally used in aftermarket Evo coil setups outputs around 35mj of energy to the spark plug, something like a R35 GTR coil outputs around 55mj, this CDI setup outputs 150mj, which makes for a very intense powerful spark at the spark plug, which, in theory, should allow for a more complete and effective burn of the fuel/air mix.

@@ausevovideo6514 ohh I see. do you notice the difference though?

@@NicsCarChannel, I've actually had a few issues with the CDI setup, feels great off boost but as soon as I go wide open on the throttle I'm having a massive amount of back firing and ignition break up. I've had the coils and control box checked by Mark at M&W ignitions (who make the ignition system and sell it to Sparktech) and it all seems fine, so I've just put the system on the shelf until I can get the car up to my tuner and get him to check whether there's some other issue with my tune that's causing the problem. I've had some pretty strange issues with my Evo's ignition system, if you look back through some of my earlier videos you'll see where I've been pulling my hair out trying to trouble shoot the system, so this might be related to that, or it's something that's possible related to my tune... only time, and my tuner, will tell.

No, I'd suggest because you're running the two big dash fittings on the valve cover you'll be right, but as part of that I'd recommend you hook those up to a catch can that works under vacuum, so, as an example, the two AN-10 lines off the valve cover to a correctly designed catch can and a AN-12 from that can to the intake pipe. This will give you a vacuum to actively scavenge vapour from the cover. This is the exact setup I'm running and it seems to be working perfectly.

best bit is that with the caliper pushed 15mm further out from the centre point there's actually more room behind the wheel spokes for the caliper which, as mentioned, allowed me to remove the wheel spacers I needed to allow my wheels to clear the original calipers. This might not be the case for all wheels, there's the potential that you could actually find that a spacer might be needed,l for clearance purposes, really just depends on the design of your wheels and their offset.

I'm not seeing any issues, a/f have been stable and my car is functioning perfectly, so I'm assuming the filters are doing exactly what the they're designed to do, pretty much exactly the same as the stock filters but with less chance of clogging up because of the bigger size.

@@ausevovideo6514 Hey mate, what I noticed with these is that if your OEM fuel pump angles 45degrees down into the tank, usually your OEM teabag type filters is also at an angle so its sits straight horizontally and it reaches down lower into the tank also. If I put these on, my pickup filter is about 4-5cm higher up the tank and also be angled at a 45 degree instead of laying flat. Would this not cause an issue with picking up fuel in the tank properly?

@@Kaizennx, I feel like the actual pickup point on the pump, as opposed to the filter location, is the important thing, so if your pump is sitting at a 45 degree angle, which, as a matter of interest, isn't how the Evo pump (or pumps) sit in their in-tank factory housings, and that point, the suction point on the bottom of the pump, is sitting 50mm off the bottom of the tank, then your going to be leaving that 50mm depth amount of fuel in the tank when you're on empty, the sock filter, whether that's a oem style soft filter or one of these stainless filters, isn't going to make any difference in this regard. What's your setup, what car are you thinking of installing one of these filters in, because 50mm of fuel depth, in a average oem fuel tank,, is going to be a lot of fuel, probably 5 litres or more, seems like a strange setup if that's the case.

@@ausevovideo6514 Car is a 1999 Honda Prelude. I have to correct the 4-5cm, I think it may be moreso about 2-3cm but the angle of these stainless filters will still be looking up rather than facing flat. here is a video you could skip to the part where it shows the actual pump with filter. it may give you an idea of my exact concern. ruclips.net/video/Wp7-awNY-uE/видео.html&ab_channel=Pinoy-Style-DIY%21

@@Kaizennx ok, definitely can see what you're saying, so I'm wondering if that filter, the one in the video, is the same as the ones used on the Walbro pumps used as an aftermarket option for the Evo platform. Is the plastic part that attaches to the bottom of the pump just that section, is the rest of the filter just like a mesh or is there a tube like structure going down inside the sock to the lowest part of the filter so the fuel is only being drawn from that section through the filter, because if that isn't the case I'd suggest you'd be fine using one of these stainless prefilters as the fuel will be drawn from the pickup point on the pump irrespective of what filter is attached to it. Hope this makes sense

it's really not that hard, just go slow with the drill and use lots of lube. As far as wheels go, as I mentioned, you'll have a few more options without the need for spacers because the calipers are further out from the centre of the hub, the more difficult, but possible offsets, like +22 and such, will be easier to fit up once you've installed the new calipers.

So a bigger rotor gives you more braking power for a given force applied to the brake pedal, effectively it's s bigger lever, plus the larger rotor has more material to disperse heat. The reports coming back from people who have made this mod is that it's easier to modulate the brakes, easier to tell when you're approaching the point at which the ABS kicks in.

@ Timi LOL really???

Yeah, still working fine, or it was a month or so ago when I cleaned my mates injectors. I definitely think it's worth buying, it's already paid for itself, and cleaning my injectors has pretty much become part of my normal maintenance schedule, which I don't think is a bad thing.

currently the jury is out as far as the baffles go, definitely more oil being pulled out into my catch can than with the oem cover, but also more of that watery piss coloured condensation too. I would say the catch can set up I'm using is catching around 300 to 350ml of material every 500km of driving, of which maybe 50mls or so is actual oil.

it has a flush setting, so you can put your injectors in upside down, plug them in and the electronics hold them open so you can reverse flush them.

It's hard to get the sound across on video but the 3.5" exhaust, the second one, definitely sounds better first hand. The first one, which is a titanium from the cat back, is louder, but it's tinny and raspy sounding, and drones terribly at cruising rpm, to the point that I needed to wear earplugs for longer drives, this is something that the second exhaust, which is a full stainless system, doesn't do at any rpm. The other point worth keeping in mind is that the second exhaust flows about 30% more than the first, probably worth 30 or 40kw at the wheels in comparison to the more restrictive titanium exhaust.

They're ID1700's.

Do you have the built in boost hose on the Link ecu hooked up to a source?

@@ausevovideo6514 all good, mine was there and because it was under a professional term haha Manifold Pressure, i renamed it and we're all good

it's funny, the RUclips channel has always just been playing second fiddle to the Aus Evo Facebook page, which is what these videos are really made for, I kinda just upload them to RUclips because I'm doing the same thing at the same time to Facebook, but I'll look into that promosm thing, more views never hurt. Thanks for the heads up Ross 👍

So the 6 speed shifter is $599usd shipped to you, and I'd suggest that the 5 speed version will be a little cheaper. Throw WK Motorsport a PM on Facebook and I'm sure they'll be able to help you out with any of your questions.

Hey, they're 18 x 9.5 +22 AME Tracers running 255/35 Yokohama AD08R's

It's got a Monster Sport wing pad underneath it.

Hopefully I'll get a review/impression vid together in the next few days, go over the purchase, install and driving aspects of the shifter, any issues I've had and some video on the shifter in action.

exactly, a little washer like ring with teeth on it, just fit the filter onto the bottom of the pump and slide the ring over the little stalk, push it down, and you're good to go.

How does it fit with the pump in the bracket with the black gasket affixed between the pump base and bracket?

Well that's a hard question to answer, probably not, but.. I've had two faulty pumps, and a mate had one fail on a drive we were on, so that's another, so probably common enough of an issue that it's worth checking them before installing them in your car.

The cheap copies do this after a while because they can't handle ethenol seen a few myself but never genuine