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Metal expanding and contracting is not considered welding. It's just shrinkage. When metal contracts it gets very tight.

This puts torque on the rest of the priniter head assembly and gantry which can do a variety of damage. So it's a tough challenge. BUT - you are right that it is better to heat it. I pull the hot end out then gently heat the brass nozzle with a propane torch. I use temperature sensing gun to tell me when it's at 200 deg F then I remove it. Plce the new brass nozzle on and essentially reverse the process then put the new hot end assembly in and absolutely recalibrate before using.

​​@@carpenter1138you only put torque on there body if you do it wrong.. not to mention that YOU CAN TAKE THE MODULAR TOOL OFF THE MODULAR PRINT BODY. Seriously, you should Google this. The accepted method of changing ANY OTHER NOZZLE in the world of FDM 3dp, requires you to heat up the nozzle TO EVEN OPEN THE HOT END ASSEMBLY. Have you ever used an ender 3? How about a flash forge? Same deal

Hey, did you find out?😅

I am a new Snapmaker 2.0 owner and one week in, I wonder about _a lot_ of things concerning this company. Like, _WTF_ are they thinking selling such a high quality product and then release an absolute dumpter fire like Luban. Worst software I had to work with in a looong time, a complete piece of garbage, and apparently users are complaining about his for a very long time now. Or why they sell an enclosure that is of equally high quality, but then tell you when you ask, that ooops, the idea that someone might need the folding door on the _right_ side never even crossed their minds. Or why I am already thinking about buying a borosilicate plate, because so far _nothing_ seems to stick on the printing bed apart from the PLA that came with the printer.

@@Furzkampfbomber Re: bed adhession - I agree about things not sticking at first, I have found the main problem/solution is that the various brands of PLA all have different ideal bed and nozzle temps. Some temps can actually make them stick like superglue to the snapmaker bed and then you destroy the bed trying to get it off. The brands all give ranges they recommend but they are two wide. For better more dialed in ranges I have found by reading indivdual user ratings on each product where someone figures it out and says exactly what gave them the best results.

@@carpenter1138 I agree, tinkering with bed temperature does help, at least in some cases. In others, I had to use adhesion spray, Wood PLA of any brand for instance does not stick without it. And yes, while some types of PLA just. won't. stick, others are sticking like hell even at low temperatures, in some cases I had to actually put the plate with the printed piece into the fridge and then still needed to bend it to unhealthy levels. Strange enough, printing with what was my personal nightmare until I got the Snapmaker, is an absolute joy with this printer - namely TPU. Bed temperature to zero and it stick perfectly, but is also very easy to peel off the bed. And it prints TPU like a champ, just printed a full grip enclosure for a friend's 1911 (gas), with Resident Evil logo on one side and some text on the other and it came out perfectly without even the need for supports. Just one tip in case you want to print TPU with the snapmaker: the tension of the spring in the loading mechanism is too high and will cause problems. So just take the spring out of any given ballpoint pen and replace the original spring with it, after that you should have no problems.

@@Furzkampfbomber And unfortunately by the time we figure it all out we've wasted PLA and in some cases damaged the bed. Another thing I tried when some PLA wouldn't stick is to stick blue 3M or painter's tape to the bed. I had to go carefully edge to edge without overlapping or if the overlapped spots stuck up higher the nozzle would drag and rip through the high spots then it would make a big mess. If i managed to get it edge to edge and then calibrate on top of the tape the surface would often make the difference and the PLA would stick to it better. It's really picky though and doesn't always work if the bed isn't pefectly calibrated.

You have probably solved this, but you input your nozzle size in the slicer software when creating a pint code. It is usually line width, or at least it is in Cura.

@@JS-vk7ek since I last wrote I've tried something new. Find a picture you liked and cnc engrave it on the piece of wood, .5mm depth to begin. Put on the laser engraving unit and laser engrave over the same picture you just carved. I use upper left corner as the starting point I've done this and it is awesome.

@@JS-vk7ek let me know how it goes.

You can. He is just stupid.

Go to the menu hit calibration let it do its thing once it gets to the middle side of the calibration card under and lower it until you feel friction then your bed is leveled

Glad you liked it!

I did a test yesterday and the results with the arc welder weren't ideal. The print head movements were fine in the larger cylindrical walls but other movements were extremely slow, it must have taken at least 15 minutes to finish the first layer. I re'sliced the stl without arc welder and the first layer finished in less than 3 minutes. Have you made any changes to arc welder other than checking the box in Cura? I would really like to make it work to see if there is significant improvements

Thank you so much Gus ❤️