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What are you using to hold your scale bar, when doing satellite mode. Do you have a link for it? Thanks!

Also it seems that the foot spray contains Zinc Oxide, which could potentially be less toxic to humans than Titanium.

Tempura is seafood coated in thin batter and deep fried. Tempera is pigment mixed with egg yolk.

You can coat the calibration Parts with some opaque powder to prevent the lasers from entering the Surface 👍

hawk tui?

A couple more things I thought of after recording this video: 1. I love that the object you are scanning doesn't need to be stationary during the scanning process - you can hang a part from the ceiling and scan it while it spins around on a string/rope, as long as target stickers are on the part. I know this isn't specific to this scanner, but it is cool nonetheless. 2. Automatically finding common reference points (a.k.a. target stickers) on two overlapping scans is really nice, but the GUI is annoying to use when unselecting individual points because it scrolls back to the top of the list. I also found a cool example of a Milwaukee Packout setup specifically for 3D scanning here: instagram.com/kaizen_inserts/p/CsQs50qLPYu/?img_index=1

ATTBLIME coats a very thin layer between 3 microns to 6 microns depending on the spray. Recommended for highly accurate 3D scans.

What I missed in the video are the existing and quite common standards for accuracy checking of 3d scanners like the VDI 2634 sheet 2 (single scan data) and sheet 3 (merged data).

Apparently, per the SDS, Dr Scholls foot power is butane, ethanol and talcum power. Talcum Powder has a refraction index of approximately 1.5 and Titanium Dioxide is approximately 2.5 considering talc is almost exactly half the cost kg per kg and I have talc on hand I will have to experiment with some denatured alcohol solutions and some photogrammetry projects i have going on. Thank you this has been informative. FYI denatured alcohol is primarily ethanol alcohol with methanol as a poison to eliminate alcohol taxes.

So i have a plastic model jetski i am trying to scan and its too shiny. I tried foot powder, and i even sprayed it with grey plasti-dip. I have to of these models, one is yellow top and yellow bottom, the other is white top and yellow bottom. I really dont want to damage these as they are rare but i want to male 3d printed replicas. I am using a Creality Ferret Pro scanner. Any suggestions? That AEsub spray is spendy, should i try that?

Have you tried plasti dip paint that you can peel off afterwards

This was an extensive video, measuring even the surface of the spray. Although as mentioned Foot Spray is great if you don't mind the clean up otherwise the spray is the best solution.

Thanks for putting this video together. It's really going to help me going forwards.

Great information....

12 years in metrology and after ton of "lets verify this dimension with caliper" videos, i really admire what you showed here. If you have all of these resources than you for sure can do Linearity with your "verification" artifact in combination with different lenses. Uncertainty is more part of "calibration" company. And there not much that you can do here... But still. We used GOM only for plastic and cold formed metal sheet objects. What you mentioned is absolutely true, they are hiding uncertainty details. If you spent 50k or more on fancy scanner that you expect a nice quality scanning, which in fact can be done with 5-10k scanners. Those scanners are not made for precise measurements, if you wanna go with precision, than CMM is a way to go. For field measurements i would recommend laser tracker.

4:32 Whaaat

I need to place reflective dots on the black plastic object I am trying to scan. I find the foot powder comes off to easy in handling.

Man this channel is so underrated

I use Zinc Oxide from Amazon mixed with 99 percent IPA. It is very white. But perhaps Titanium Dioxide is even better.

Thank you for doing all of this work. Amazing.

Nice! What song is playing as you make the repair?

Tutorial on aligning meshes with GOM like you demonstrated in the video would be awesome!

Subscribed 👍

Excellent, thank you. Now to go buy some foot spray 😅

What is the ratio of Titanium Dioxide powder to denatured alcohol that you used?

Any possibility of you doing the plastic gears on the bottom?

Hi, is there any chance you could make the file available for 3d printing. I have a MJU that id like to repair

Just go to an NDT supply house and buy some dye developer. 5 year supply for like 20 bucks.

Thank you, great and useful work.

Magnaflux spot check developer works pretty well

This is the most over engineered video on foot powder ever and I love it.

After trying many products I found a brand of chalk spray that works perfectly. Its called “Heidi Swapp” . It covers fast so no need to build up a thick layer, and the final finish is nothing less than perfect ! Other brand chalk sprays leave small chalk clumps on the surface. Not this brand. I buy whatever color spray is on sale, usually around $9.00 a can and one can goes a long way. I have a David SLS 3 pro and other structured light scanners and I have not found any difference in my scans using different colors. On the chalk spray, it does wash off with soap and water but its dye can stain untreated white plastic. I just got a can of Magnaflux developer spray but have yet to try it. 😁

Delivered well 👏

If I don't have a gom scanner will I still be able to use the software?

i have a broken switch to yashica t5 but i had no idea how to get so tiny and complex object recreated. this is the way. i gave up :p

Keep going, cool chanel.

bro yopur content is dope. Thanks for all this information ypu are sahring with us. Learning from the best! Thanks again!

I got a tip to try out ATTBLIME AB2. It’s like Aesub blue but it’s a thinner surface coating. I ordered 2 cans for now and will test it out. But I don’t think i can do the same test showed here….

I've tried generic foot powder spray, talc powder mixed in isopropyl alcohol in a spray bottle, and just dabbing on baby powder with a foam brush. They all worked great for laser scans, tho I was more surprised how much it helped a photogrammetry scan I was working on. HUGE increase in quality. It's one of those things I've only recently learned about and wish I knew years ago, when I first started messing with 3D scanning, lol. Great video, pleased to see this info spreading around.

I use a Teflon Dry release agent from Miller Stephenson. Dries almost instantly and cleans off easily.

First off, great video! I went to your channel to see what other content you have, and i was surprised to see your first video listed was only 10 months old. Amazing content/quality for such a fresh channel. Can't wait to see all the stuff you end up making

crikey, you want a bit mad with the aesub blue. the temptation is to spray until it looks white, but actually a quick, light spray and leave it a few seconds , it goes white.

I usually use dry shampoo spray but I was sent a couple cans of AESub (blue and orange) and really like it. Unfortunately it's very expensive.

How many different scanners you have? Also do you have a website and cost for object scanning?

Who did you use to 3d print the part?

thanks for the video, I learned a lot

Thanks for sharing your knowledge of these products. It would be interesting to see how they compare to Aesub yellow, which is supposed to be their ultra fine vanishing spray.

🙂 𝚙𝚛𝚘𝚖𝚘𝚜𝚖

Very cool! Thanks for the info!

Can you scan a ps4 loser and upper shells separate?