Видео

Awesome work, looking forward to getting my motor build by you next year.

Weber carbs pronounced 'WeeBer' not 'Webber'. You're welcome

Well done sir. I wish I could afford to have you help me get my '73 240Z alive again. L24 still in hand.

Have a 1975 280z with the OEM original clutch. Been having problems with new clutch kits. I purchased the LUK clutch for the car, after installing everything and then could not get the car to disengage the clutch. Could not get the car to go into gear. The slave is working correctly, the only thing after viewing this site it that instead of the original clutch collar (larger one) I need to find the smaller clutch collar. Watch the clutch you buy I noticed that some kits the pressure plate finger face upward above the pressure plate which is causing above problem need the fingers to be below pressure plate

A waste on a L series motor. Not sure why people spend soo much money and time on this motor.

Thank you for the video. It would be very helpful to mention the specific torque that should be used for this and how to keep the engine from turning over while tightening: Factory spec is 100 ft-lbs torque, and a large screwdriver between two of the other flywheel bolts can keep it from turning over, although there are other ways to achieve that.

Your later videos are loaded via RUclips kids which limits your viewers interactions and comments. Any chance you can amend this so I can subscribe, thanks ?

Shitty flywheel, makes the engine vibrate at higher rpms

requires a "mechanic"

Thanks for the video but, I would have to disagree on the collar length. The shorter collar is for the 240/260. The longer one is for the 2+2/turbo.

Any chance you would give me a part number for a rebuild kit or gasket kit for that exact turbo. I really just need the compressor housing gasket

Is it possible the have a different valve that would give 15 pounds of boost? I believe it's c alled a hybrid.

Beautiful. What kind of wheels are those?

The music is bad. as in not good.

One is never enough! Enjoy the Ride

Vehicle specific. I want to add this to a vw dune buggy. Not easy..

Whats the paint code? Is it 901?

Hi Why won't it fit on a 280z? Can't I just bastardize (modify) it to fit?? Thanks a million Geoff

C'mon, Newell, show us how it works. It's tough to sell something if your potential customers can't see the results!

Does this mean 240z & 280z hardware are different or is it because the bolt in the video is not oem?

Can this be done to 521? I hear people are putting Prius electric power steering.

This engine looks so clean

What is the cost of this??

5:42 What kind of water is that?!

Engine Armour Coatings also offer that radiator ceramic thermal dispersant coating. They are based in Tampa, Florida. BTW, that coating can also be applied to a car's intercooler to reduce intake temps.

I'm not sure what the point of the dremel was? I just put an impact on the nut and removed it.

Nice! What socket/wrench did you use to take axle half shaft 4 bolts loose?

I have a blue one on my close ratio transmission . I dont think it's the right one . My speed guage hasn't work since I baught the car

Thanks very much. I'm assembling an L20A at the moment and came across your vid. I made this exact mistake. Luckily engine is still out of the vehicle. This does actually bend the tight side tensioner. Once the bolt is removed it sits away from the side of the head by 2-3mm. I found the tensioner is very soft. I removed it, straightened it back up and refitted. Oddly my old tensioner wasn't straight either. But I couldn't see a mark on it from the bolt. The correct bolt was in at the time. The top of the tensioner was grooved so it proves it really does need to sit right back against the head.

Thanks for showing this, I needed a clear picture of the vacuum lines

We need part 2 please!

Nice little video and straight to the point good job

Can you tell how good is that flywheel been to you and how you rate it now, thanks for uour input

Where is part 2? You didn't die on me, did you? :-)

Al Allen, I have 1977 280Z, with triple Weber carbs, light weight flywheel, moderate cam (I don't know what's the ratio), and headers with 2.5 to the almost middle of the car then 3.0 from there to the muffler. The engine is stock, my question is : Should I stay with light weight flywheel or go back to original flywheel? I know I need to do something with the engine for more power, but I need it for daily driving and not too much drag racing. If you can think of something else I can do for engine, differential,.... I will thankful and appreciate your time if you replay to me. You have a good day. I forgot it's 5 speed trans and 3.90R200.

great build! how much $$ do you think went into this?

any update?

Man the zoom in zoom out thing was driving me bonkers. Cool build, miss mine.

What do you charge to rebuild that exact Turbo.

"RIPE' rebuilt properly !

gj

Wonder what the final cost was.

Amazing job. Love your Z man. Looks great.

MUSIC TOTALLY SUCKS!!!!!!!!

Whats going on with the Z build. Wondering why you have tall 280Z Strut pillows when you should be using 240Z lower strut pillows.

Are these both FS5W71B transmissions? 'Cause as far as I know the FS5W71B (out of the ZX) was sold as wide and close ratio, but how do I determine which of these I have?

The short collar measures 1.76" and the long one measures 2.06"

reverse lockout on CR

I misspoke here, the first year of the FACTORY 5 speed is 1977, not 1975.

whats with the fucking music. but love this car have