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I did use the elevator trim but not near as often as I had to with the Champ and the Cub. The Stinson really is a great all around plane to fly.

There will be pull strings everywhere. Doing my best to future proof this since those wings will be real hard to work in through the tiny access panels after install that bottom skin.

Thanks, Its CTPA Flexible Conduit - 20mm from wirecare.com. The clips are available from Flyboy accessories. They are 3d printed. I ended up modifying and printing a bunch of my own I also made a wire clip version for zip tying wires and or items to the outside of the conduit using the ribs in the conduit to lock it in place.

Mine seeps fluid every now and then. I did email them asking about a repair kit but never got an answer from them. Let me know if you find out because I would be interested as well.

It’s always Christmas for the airplane lol

I am using a gopro for all of the build footage. I just started using a Sony RX100 for all of the intro footage. I hear the bambu labs printers are very nice and user friendly.

I did not. Sounds like I need to go check that out before building the next one.

It truly is and was slowed down on purpose

Thank you so much!!

I usually go every other rivet but in some places you can leave a space of two open holes between clecos then go back and rivet where the clecos were.

Rust-oleum self etching primer 249322. You need a self etching primer with aluminum and this stuff works great for interior parts that wont see any regular wear and tear.

In general - Self-etching primer itself can be easily damaged in aggressive environments (moisture, chemicals, etc). The primary purpose of a self-etching primer is to create a chemical bond with the metal surface. This type of primer must be covered with a secondary, more protective primer, such as acrylic or polyurethane primers.

Self-Etching Primer: Acts as a base layer to improve adhesion between the bare metal and subsequent coatings. Provides light corrosion protection but needs additional layers for durability.

Vans uses Sherwin Williams P60G2. This is used on the Quick-Builds (QBs) and prototypes. P60G2 is a Wash Primer. It is necessary to cover a wash primer with a topcoat to protect it effectively. Wash primers are designed primarily as a preparatory layer for improving adhesion and providing light corrosion resistance, but they are not meant to serve as standalone protective coatings. Recommended Topcoat Types: Acrylic primers and paints, Epoxy primers and paints, Polyurethane paints.

Summary: Aircraft parts, particularly in general aviation, are exposed to a range of harsh environmental conditions. Wash primer + epoxy primer provides significantly better long-term corrosion protection than self-etching primer alone. Wash primers, typically containing phosphoric acid, chemically etch the aluminum surface, creating a rough, microscopically porous texture that enhances adhesion for the next layers of primer or paint. Wash Primer: Compatible with a wide range of topcoats, including epoxies and polyurethanes. Commonly used in aviation. Epoxy primer provides a hard, durable layer that resists wear and tear, ensuring the protection of your aluminum parts from both internal and external elements. Wash primer + epoxy primer is the combination preferred by most aerospace manufacturers and builders because it offers comprehensive protection against corrosion, improves paint adhesion, and ensures a more durable finish. This is especially important for aircraft components that must withstand the stresses of flight and environmental conditions.

Thanks. Slowly but surely I’ll figure all this stuff out. Beats the early beer fridge audio….

That’s not a bad idea. Right now I just have a builder log and unfortunately between work life the build and the videos I’m running out of extra time.

@ I’d love to see community driven manuals/documentation on how to actually build RV’s. Officials docs are good, but actual builders doc is invaluable.

I don’t mind sharing. I’ll try to send the link later on. I’m using ASA it’s a bit stronger than ABS and has a better heat rating up to 100c before it starts to deform.

It comes in orange or black. I chose the orange because it reminds me of all the test flight orange cabling on the C5M.

Thanks I can’t wait either. I’m still hopeful I can get it on order before the end of the year.

Yeah they are the push in style air fittings. It is nice to have it all together though.

Thanks for stopping by hope you enjoy

Yeah it was fresh in my mind from us talking about the “other” uses of proseal the other day.

Did you scuff the spar web to help the pro seal stay put? I’m just about to get to this point on my 7 wings and I like your solution so I’m going to steal it!

@ I did not scuff the web. My theory is anodizing should be a good base for paint or primer anyhow so it should be good enough for the proseal.

Awesome! Thank you!

Yes I am. I’m just north of you.

Cool. I'm doing one wing at a time and just like you, fighting to finally seal the left tank.​@TFlight77

@ Those tanks are not fun to fix leaks on. For me it ended up being better and easier to just cut the holes and add sealant from the inside.

Thanks for stopping by hope you enjoy it.

Yeah sorry it’s a movie quote and meant to be funny

Just passing through to Houston. I would gladly take Phoenix summer over Houston humidity.

Thank you. I’m trying to future proof this build and make maintenance easier on myself.

Haha it’s a necessary evil.

I was thinking about that. Doesn’t seem like it would need to be a solid rivet.

I have not. I found them while looking at the Sky Designs gear legs. It wasn't a very expensive mod and I preferred the idea of the longevity of the ball bearing design over the stock bushing.

Choice makes sense mate and I think I will do the same. Do you think that maintenance and greasing the bearings will be relatively easily once it is a flying aircraft? Apologies for the perpetual questions (I am building the fuselage but haven’t started the wings so can’t get a feel for it)

I have a cordless drill and a pneumatic one that I use. Usually if there are lots of holes to ream out I will use the pneumatic one since its lighter but otherwise there isn't really a difference.

@@TFlight77 okay, thx

Would be a great place for a fuel stop.

Not sure what you mean

@@TFlight77 sorry for my typo. At the beginning of the video you insert the rivet gun into the wing to shoot the rivets that are difficult to access. I wanted to ask why you don't shoot the rivets from the other side where you can get to them better. Why don't you do this in the opposite way to backriveting?

@buzz_ I understand now. The dome manufactured side of the river is supposed to go on the thinnest side so this would be from the rib side. To do it that way and back rivet with the gun you would have to have a custom bucking bar with the cup size for the rivet you wanted to buck.

I would say contact them and see what they have to say. Typically part 61 schools aren’t structured and it’s tailored to the student. Part 141 schools are structured and have a syllabus they follow. I preferred the part 61 style myself.

Haha yes I did.

@@TFlight77 haha awesome video. And thanks for the help, that thing was heavy

Small world. It was nice meeting you. I wish I live closer to the field I’d be out there every weekend.

@@TFlight77 it’s an amazing place and so laid back. All the CFIs are great people. I actually think I flew that champ right after you and then I flew the white one 85663 after I took a break, so I think I may have made in the video landing lol. I flew with Scott yesterday the one that was in the cub in your video.

That’s funny. Well it was a good landing 😂. I flew twice with Scott and twice with Tommy. Every instructor there I flew with was great.

@@TFlight77maybe that wasn’t me landing then lol

They are a great product and it’s a fun project. Best advice I can give is make sure to read the directions all the way through a couple times before stating. Enjoy.

Thanks for watching!

It’s a piece of C5 skin that was turned into a going away type gift. I was a C5 FE at Dover then Marietta and finished out at Travis. The bike was a 2022 Royal Enfield INT650. I have since sold the bike though.

It’s a Piper J3 Cub. Same as the one parked in the foreground.

Thanks. I originally was going to prime the interior of the skins but I came to the conclusion that I really only wanted to prime parts that were in contact with other parts and on the skins since I already have primer on the ribs there’s a small barrier between the two parts in contact. The rest I am trusting in the alclad and the fact that these are all internal parts. I won’t be priming the fuselage interior parts either.

Thank you. It's much easier when they just dont leak.

Wow. That’s how I felt after the first tank. So on the second I made absolutely sure that baffle was well sealed. Will find out for sure in just a few days.