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Thanks you know it👍

very interesting content !…i’ve been sailing and boating all of my life , and have had several , including a world cruising 42 that i completely refurbished from stem to stern….now at 67, im having the itch to build a sailing boat for lake/coastal day/weekend cruising…simplicity is my goal…your video is very inspiring … btw…you may want to check out the madisonville maritime museum in south louisiana …it’s built in the sleepy little town of madisonville on property that was once jahncke shipyard, a very prominent boatyard that even built ships for the government prior to ww1….they have a boatbuilding school that teaches students how to build the indigenous plywood skiffs of this area…beautiful boats…each student builds their own skiff with the guidance of instructors…if you decide to check it out for yourselves, please let me know …i’d enjoy meeting you. thanks again!

Finally watched!

Great explanation! Makes sense.

What type of glue do you use to join the boards? Thanks

I live in Connecticut and I was pleasantly surprised to see the bridge that I have gone under in my boat many times down in Mystic in this video!

Brawo

Brilliant! I,m a bit stupid! I was left behind by your spiling batten marks! When I re-Built an Essex Estuary One design in the 1990s I rivetted with my wife to hammer the cut rivetts. I saved time by drilling and driving ALL the rivetts and roves, then soldering the rivets to the roves, cutting to size, then peaning all on one occasion start to finish!...LA5 Warton England

Thank you guys! The video is very soothing, very informative and educative. ASMR of Lofting.

❤

Great Vid. How did you calculate the distance between the ribs and how did you determine the number of the ribs?

I would have been tempted to pre-drill the first two planks for rivet holes and then temporarily bolted the steamed ribs down against them. Because it's easier to fit clamps up higher but pretty difficult to force the rib down by the keel.

I remember steam bending the ribs for my canoe a while ago and once you get it all worked out it's great fun! I had some lovely clear grained ash an it bent like a dream.

Saludos desde Uruguay , una hobra de arte 👏👏👏👏🍻

Thank you very much for such quality work on RUclips. Hey, where is that link to Nettlesome boat shop?

great video Murphy! steam bending wood is a lot of fun. I was glad to see Dale in your video and glad you gave him a shout out at the end. His videos are well done. When he started building his Haven, he contacted me and we have spoken and communicated fairly regularly as he presses on. He told me that he got to come work with and help you. It is sure good to see you back to work on your project, been a minute. Best, Chuck

Where could you find the copper fasteners? They are very hard to find...

The fastener direction into the installed piece of wood s a key consideration of grain orientation. Flat grain takes fasteners well and bends easily but is often not ideal due to its lack of structural support and due to grain separation risk. Vertical grain is prone to splitting from fasteners and harder to bend. A 45 degree grain orientation is a great compromise for fastener holding strength , structural support, and stability in the bend.

Ahhhhhh, thats why I ended up bending 15mm square sections and epoxy 4 of them in place because I couldn't get the edge set on a square (equivalent of 4 15mm squares). Faff, looks crap but very strong 😊. Used sheesham. Lovely vid.

Great work, man. I pretty much gave up on steam bending my 1 3/4" square frames after breaking 5 of them. Much easier to just laminate the frames for a big old boat like mine.

Excellent description.

Güzel

One of the best videos I have watched this year. Top stuff

This is one of the most underrated channels on RUclips. I’ve had to read dozens of books to get most of the information that you have covered in this series and this series took considerably less time to watch then all of that reading did. I value both a great deal, but having the visuals and animations alongside your explanations is priceless.

so well done! this episode and 18 may be the very best I've ever seen on clinker planking. brilliant.

Great video except for the music - icky music.

You haven't dealt with the station bevels on your mould templates. We used aluminum sheets for the template and marked which side of the sheet was to be placed on station. Then the other side was alway pointed towards the open bevel. The result was the non-station side was under sized and beneath the mould surface.If you did that the other way, then the non-station side would be proud of the mould surface. In your case, while the template is on the lofting boards, it is obvious which side is on station; the side contacting the loft board. But once you lift the template off the loft board, it is not as obvious which side is on station; especially for someone new coming onto the job.

I know I am a little late to this game but better late then never.. I am a retired aircraft lofter and started this Busness in the early 80's with ink on mylar. Our tolerances were pretty tight especially on airfoil shapes; half a 00 ink line or +/- .005". I was looking fwd to the Loft Corrections at 20:51. But I felt you really glossed over that subject. I know that changing a station line (wing station in my case) can impact neighboring stations in front and behind the station you are working. So the impact can be far reaching. I have found myself chasing my tail many times trying to fair all the station, waterlines and butt lines. This is mostly due to the fact that any change to a wing can have big impacts on aero performance. As time moved fwd and we started doing this work on the computer, I found that looking at the second derivative (curvature) was most helpful. If the curvature was spiking, you were working with the wrong set of curves. These issues got even easier (that is relatively easier) when we started to loft in 3D with surfaces. It was still hard and took skill, but the time and iterations decreased a bunch. I started with stacked sets of lines on mylar with the Tomahawk Cruise Missile's wing and inlet and ended with the Learjet Model 45 using CATIA with surfaces; a multi million dollar CAD/CAM system on mainframes and mini computers. Now I have Fusion 360 for next to nothing and can do the same work on my home computer. We've come a long way.

Excellent

I would never use PU glue on a boat!

Basically looks like stereotomy

Great craftsmanship!

Loved it! Thank you. Im going to watch a few more episodes. I think I'll see about sending some funds your way.

You guys are doing great stuff. I tell folks i was Born on a boat and raised in a marina. But i can learn from anyone! Thanks guys

Oh no! Im could to the first episode! This is so cool!

Great description!

I am about to start making myself some model sailboats. I found your video explaining the lines on a set of plans is fantastic to help understand the shape of the hull. Brilliant work guys, thank you. Mick. Down under Australia.

I’m just starting out with boat design and although I’m relying heavily on digital tools (Solidworks, FEA and CFD), I am also trying to marry the digital with the analogue / organic. So far though, I’m not having much luck finding the right batten material and don’t get me started on the lack of weights / ducks… I’m beginning to think I’m just going to have to get some lead and pound it into roughly the right shapes! I like the idea of physically defining the curves of the keel on the side view and the stations on the front / rear views. It can be quite difficult to get splines in a CAD program to be as smooth as I imagine battens + weights could be for those really fair lines.

I am Boatbuilder ❤

You can also buy artist's oil paint in tubes which are quite thick and require thinning with more linseed oil. You add small amounts of oil to keep lumps from forming, stirring as you go. You have to make sure the white is made with linseed oil and not safflower oil or sunflower oil since many companies use those in their whites to prevent yellowing. They are not durable weather proof oils. By the way, you could mix tung oil in instead so that a mixture of tung and linseed oils result. Tung oil is more durable-slightly. Early 19th century paint pigments were yellow ochre, red ochre also called Venetian red, raw umber, burnt umber, raw sienna (sometimes called spruce yellow which is also called dark yellow ochre) burnt sienna, Prussian blue, lamp black, lead white, Turner's yellow (lead oxychloride), lead yellow also called Massicot, Vermillion, red lead called Minium. I have some early 19th century New York State newspapers with these same pigments for sale from 1826 in Rochester, and 1812 in Buffalo. In 1868 the paint colors used at a fancy painted fire engine factory in New York City were: Red Lead ,White Lead, French Yellow (this was ochre), Indian Red (a red iron oxide), Drop Black, Paris Green (probably copper + arsenic), Rose Pink, Chrome Yellow (basic lead chromate), Chrome Green (same but likely mixed with Prussian blue), Prussian Blue, American Vermilion (real vermillion but with cheaper red ochre added), English Vermilion, Chinese Vermilion, Ultramarine Blue, Crimson Lake, and Carmine. You can add cobalt drier into linseed oil paint which is available online or from better art supplies. With this, raw linseed oil can be used since it soaks into the wood deeper due to its thinner viscosity. The National Park Service has an informative article on linseed oil's superiority of waterborne acrylic latex here: www.apti.org/assets/Publications/Bulletin/2021/52.4/52.4%20Gibbs%20and%20Wonson.pdf

I believe the original wooden boat from the movie African Queen is still doing tours in Key Largo

Do you have any videos without the distracting music? I don’t remember any of my schools playing music wile teaching.

I would really like to see an episode on those long reach wood clamps you have there, looks like you made those, and those are really useful for so many things in the woodshop along with boats. especially where you found the pattern, and the wedge you use on the back.

Engraçado !! O vídeo que seria a cereja do bolo vcs não colocaram tradução!! Que desrespeito aos ouvintes!

Keep chipping away!

Really fascinating to see the paint making process. Thanks for uncovering that mystery.

Excellent info. Ill need to manufacture a certain red-orange boat primer that's no longer sold commercially, so this'll come in handy.

Fuckin ace. In 2020 I was lucky enough to be able to paint all the barge boards,. soffits and fascias (and repair replace most of them...) on my house. I stripped the lot back to the wood. Primed with linseed oil then applied two coats of linseed oil paint. A 5L tin was £125.00. However, this cost is insignificant if you consider this: Scaffolding just for painting is five times that and you will be back to strip off any alkyd paints well within 10 years. The majority of the woodwork was original from 1850. How had it survived? Cos it had linseed oil paint on it. It gets wet, it dries out; and will keep doing so... Any alkyd based paint will, without any doubt, let water behind it. It is impervious to water so no opportunity for the wood tk dry out. Knackered wood is the result.

Who finished the hull and planking ? 12 months on 🤷‍♂️

Thanks for making paint! That's cool, im gonna try that. Love that lil bucket i see.