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@Monki-mf8rq Sorry but I've since returned it. It's a nice tool but it was missing some features that I wanted . I'm upgrading from an older Xtool D8 and although it has been a great tool, there were specific features I was looking for in an upgrade. I hope what I chose fits my needs. It's too bad because the Topdon was nice. Nice interface and nice hardware. And I hear their support is good.

@@MarcBchannel Thank you for sharing your thoughts on the tool! It's great to hear your honest feedback, and I appreciate your detailed review. I noticed you highlighted some positive aspects, which I think could really help others make informed decisions. Would you be open to discussing this video further? I believe it has great value and could reach more people who would benefit from your insights. Let me know if there's a way to connect!

@Monki-mf8rq I'm open to discuss what you have in mind at mlb200180@gmail.com. Thank you

​@@MarcBchannel I’ve sent you an email regarding a potential collaboration related to your video. Please feel free to check it out when you have a moment. Looking forward to hearing from you. Thank you

@Backalleydiagnostics I didn't know that. It is a really nice tool but I sent it back because I just wasn't feeling it. I wanted to upgrade from my Xtool D8 which is a great tool and my first full function scanner. But I regret not getting a cordless tool, which i really didn't like the other day setting the CMP retard on my truck😁. The interface is clean and easy to use which I really like, but I also dont like that it doesn't show battery voltage at the top. It also doesn't have Google play. The browser is outdated and alot of websites don't support it and I can't update it. The Topdon didn't have Google play and you couldn't toggle to the android screen like my Xtool. I ordered up a Launch X431 Pro3s. I should get it this Friday. It's got all the features and functions I want. I'm sure the Topdon is a great tool. Just personal preference👍

@Backalleydiagnostics I also got a deal on the Launch. $980 after taxes holiday sale. The Topdon was a good deal as well at $940

@Backalleydiagnostics Thx for the info. I was gonna hook up the hscope and get a good cam/crank waveform to save. I'll have to see if there is any walk. I do get misfires on cyls 3&6 but it's random and they only count in the low single digits. I'll have to check them out. Maybe stick a bore scope in and check out the valves. I thought maybe injector issues since they are probably the originals. I don't hold fuel pressure on shutdown so it could be a sticking injector or bad pump. Cheers👍

@MarcBchannel Chevys are kind of random, I worked on one last year. Saw some smoke coming from the intake after smoke testing it, but even after a gasket, it had Randoms . Curious, did you look in global obd2 under mode 6 ? Sometimes it picks up a more accurate cylinder. If there is slack in the chain , the cpu picks up the cylinder firing afterwards. Mode 6 for Ford's definitely is more accurate. I don't believe I ever checked a Chevy.

@Backalleydiagnostics No I haven't. I'll have to check it out👍

@@akilaasran8686 Are you asking where it is made?

@010johnm Thank you sir. I actually need to get out and play around with it some more. Just waiting on some projects. Let us know how you get along with it 👍

@user-ky7ty3ie1x The two signals mirror each other. If they do not, then you have a problem on the network. Either you have a short in the communication wiring or one of the modules has a fault. The signal capture should be a square wave but only if the oscilloscope has enough resolution. If it doesn't you will still get a waveform it just won't be accurate. Just check to see if both signals mirror each other. If they do then it should be a good signal.

Thanks

@user-ky7ty3ie1x 👍

@user-ky7ty3ie1x One channel to CAN low pin#14, one channel to CAN high pin#6, and ground to pins #4 or #5 (4 and 5 are shared grounds on my breakout box). Breakout box plugs into the dlc to give you banana jacks for easier diagnostic testing off the dlc pins. I just plug in to the BOB using banana jack wires. The can hi/lo signals should mirror each other and not show any irregularities or spikes.

@Bobby82568 Thx bro. I'm pretty sure it's the sunroof but ill have to verify it👍

@CarCareAuto Thanks for watching. Ya most people that work on cars sound like old heads😁 It's too bad most cars now are built so cheap and are so expensive. It seems that manufacturers load cars with all kinds of features and fancy options and skimp on build quality. I drive older low tech cars so I don't have to work on them as much because I work on everyone else's cars. 2017 Subaru Crosstrek, 1998 C1500. No DI, no turbos, simple. Thanks👍

@CarCareAuto 🤣Pretty bare. Most of the scanner companies offer HD versions that supposedly work on med/heavy duty trucks but I wouldn't bet on them working on everything like the passenger/light duty versions.

@Backalleydiagnostics Ya I actually haven't had good results using the 1008 with hscope. If you set the time base, it changes the available sampling rate selections. When you set the sampling rate, it changes the available time base selections. It makes it very difficult to use. I tried it and I couldn't get a capture similar to the one I got with the hantek software which only let's you set time base. 👍

@MarcBchannel I haven't used it on a laptop in a while but remembered it being more like your captures. Good to know in case I do use it . The biggest reason I like hscope is I don't need a garage laptop much anymore. Cheap android tablets in cheap Amazon cases. Now that's something I don't mind in the garage lol. The Droid just don't like the hantek as much as the 502

@@Backalleydiagnostics 🤣

@themechanicman3865 It's perfect to learn tig on as it does have most typical tig features and adjustments. I can't speak on longevity as I don't use it much. I mainly bought it for the occasional aluminum/SS welding I mite do. Ive used it some for custom SS exhaust and other parts. Ive also used it for aluminum tubing and custom brackets/parts. Most of the time I use mig but it's nice to have both. I do bodywork as well and I mostly use mig. I think it would serve you well. I'm definitely glad I bought it. It's not a heavy duty/heavy use machine so don't expect it to last if you want it for heavy fabrication. I think it's more of a hobbiest type machine. Cheers

@@Bobby82568 Thx buddy!

@canadatransistor No it's a 2011 Buick Regal CXL 2.0T LHU

@manelishi13 Definitely capable enough for most tests. For the money you can't go wrong. Any scope is better than no scope. Maybe someday I'll get a picoscope but I can't justify $1600-1800 for just the scope no accessories. I just bought an HS502 with the Hscope app. It is loads better than the Hantek but only 2ch. The sampling rate is way better and you can record long captures. The automotive tools are fantastic. 720deg cursors and math functions. Pretty high end features and capabilities for about $100. I'll post a video shortly using it. Cheers👍

@manelishi13 Sorry just figured out who this is. I'm just a grasshopper. Your the grand master😁

@MarcBchannel Awesome Marc! The more people posting with Hscope, I hope will make it come up higher when people search for beginner scopes. Not being on Ebay or Amazon is more than likely the reason. I know that I never saw much about it. Everyone uses youtube, that's where they will hear about Hscope, I hope. It lets you follow scanner danner on 2 channels at least!

@MarcBchannel Not me, I just keep doing like you do and ask a lot of questions. The only thing different than what you did in that video that you will ever encounter is which wires need measured and where they are. How to adapt to the wire or sensor is just finding what tool or adapter is best. Take care, and thanks for sharing!

@@Bobby82568 Thank you kindly👍

@manelishi13 Ya I can see the 1008 is limited for some things. The resolution is pretty bad but I was able to get a decent enough capture for a cam crank correlation on hall effect sensors. Mite not be so good for other types. You could possibly spot CAN issues I'm not sure. I'm pretty new to oscopes. What I dislike the most about the 1008 is the low sampling and limited buffer. I just started using the HS502 on Hscope and wow is it good. I was getting ready to bite the bullet on a Pico 4425A but I think I'll hold off. I think I can get most things done with these two scopes. Love the Hscope features. Great resolution and love being able to record long captures. Ya that BOB is good so far. I don't have anything to compare as I'm new to this stuff. Thx for commenting. I really like your vids. I've learned alot from them👍

@MarcBchannel Thanks man , I appreciate it! I am sure with can bus the 1008 can spot a problem. The digital module for hscope separates the packets and identifies alot of issues. I have not used it yet myself but figured for the future it's good to have. I feel you om the pico , I was looking for something In between and surprised the 502 and 512 with hscope bridge the gap and actually end up on the budget side. They do more than I imagined and plenty more than I discovered! Keep on testing!

@Triicks111 Still going. I don't use it much as I haven't needed to do alot of aluminum or SS welding. I mainly got it for the occasional job and to learn tig so I didn't want to spend much. I mostly weld mild steel so I just go for wire feed or stick.

@@stevec5000 Er4043

Oh no😬 Mine is still going. QC probably isn't going to be the best considering the low price. I wasn't expecting a super robust machine. Just something to kick around and learn tig with. I have other welders for most of my welding needs. I only needed a tig for the occasional aluminum job. Hope you get a good one👍

I'll keep my fingers crossed. The price is incredible for a machine with all its features, especially for the price I'm paying on eBay.

@@dannyrusso8279 Let's us know how the replacement turns out. Cheers

The seller sent another unit and this one is 100%. At 221.00 it's a great deal.

@@dannyrusso8279 Awesome. Hope it serves you well👍

Good for high build primer with the 1.7mm tip. Use the 1.3-1.5mm tips for sealer/base/clear

@@MarcBchannel what’s a good primer gun for epoxy?

@whatsdadcookin6320 Anything with a 1.3-1.4mm tip really. Spraying sealer and epoxy isn't hard. You want to spray thin even med wet coats with enough pressure to atomize and lay down flat but not too high that it's overspraying and dry. Any gun with the right size tip will do.

@whatsdadcookin6320 If your just learning the A610 is a good gun to learn on. You can use it for everything with the different tip sizes. Learn how regulate the fluid flow, air pressure, spray distance and travel speed. You can get good results with this gun. No need to spend alot to learn

@whatsdadcookin6320 Maintain good overlap too. Around 50-60% overlap for primer/sealer/solid base colors and more overlap with metallics/pearls/candies to prevent tiger striping. 70-90% overlap when clearing for even med to wet finishes to flow the clear out flat with less orange peel. Just don't go too slow or you'll get runs

Does it ark with the pedal disconnected using the switch on the torch in 2T or 4T mode?

@@MarcBchannel I have fixed it since, I took the pedal apart and has some loose and bent components, re attached and straightened and now its all working as it should, thanks for the quick response though :)

@HardlyDrivenSon oh nice👍 I think people are having problems with the pedals. Glad you got it working

I just plugged the pedal in, set the machine to TIG, and set the amperage by turning the knob on the pedal. If it doesn't work I'd look into the pedal. Mite have a defective one. If your still having problems let me know. Should be able to troubleshoot the pedal somehow. I'd imagine it's kind of a potentiometer. Mite be able to check resistance

@@MarcBchannel Okay thank you. I will give it another try. All I get is the same noise at 4:53 then nothing. Might be pedal

​@@lyallcampbell5613Does it arc without the pedal in 2T or 4T?

Yeah, just have it in 2T and works completely fine with the torch. Plugs in fine and machine knows it's foot pedal as amps stay at 10 on machine but doesn't let me adjust them on pedal.

@lyallcampbell5613 Ya probably bad pedal. They are pretty simple inside. Two wires to the micro switch which should be working since it starts the high frequency circuit and the other 3 to the rheostat/potentiometer. Maybe a wire fell off?

I don't think these guns really are LVLP. They market these guns as "LVLP" saying that they use 4-4.5cfm of air but it's not true. It's more like 6-7 and if you crank up the pressure to 30+psi needed to finely atomize clear, it's close to 8-9cfm. The Bellaria uses about that @28-29psi but I can get it to spray clear nice @25-26psi so it actually uses less. The LVLP designation is a little misleading. They need more pressure to atomize than the Bellaria. They do spray base nice at lower pressures tho. It kinda sprays base like an HVLP at lower pressures.

It was just an experiment. The A610/R500 guns are loose copies of the Iwata W400 guns. It happens that some parts like the nozzle, air caps, and needles interchange. The W400 Bellaria BA4-2 air cap gives you a wider fan and better atomization but it's really not worth upgrading. By the time you buy a cap and needle/nozzle set you'd be into it for the price of a Kiwami4 which is the same thing as a Bellaria. I already have a Bellaria so I had the parts. The A610 can give you good finishes if you practice with it and set it up for what you are doing. It's easier with a better gun like the Bellaria but even it is not a top tier gun. It's a better base coat gun because of the wide fan. Lays metallics really nice. Not my favorite for clear. It will atomize good but it's a little slow. The A610 is actually pretty good with clear if you crank up the pressure over 30psi. You want the clear to atomize just enough lay down smooth but not over atomized to where it lays too dry and being wasted into the air. The smaller pattern makes it decently fast and lays down the material wet enough to flow out smooth. Keep a steady distance around 6-8in and a steady speed. Keep a 70-80% overlap. Lay your first coat down medium wet and your second coat a little wetter and flat. You generally want a wide even fan for metallic base. The A610 doesn't have a super wide fan but I've laid metallics pretty good with it. Just keep a 50-60% overlap and keep a good distance and don't lay it on thick or you'll get motling with the metallics. Spray a control coat/drop coat to even out any uneven or blotchy spots in the metallics. Just takes practice. A good painter can get decent results with pretty much any gun

Excellent info!!!

@@MarcBchannelAny advice for laying black epoxy primer with the stock a610 (and later on, a hot rod satin black single stage)?

@intheshoptv What are you painting? Why are you using epoxy instead of regular primer surfacer? Are you painting bare metal or trying to seal off an existing finish? Epoxy is usually thin like basecoat. With the a610 I'd start around 26psi and go from there. Go up if it's too peely or down to reduce overspray. Single stage paint is usually thicker almost like clear. Start at 28-30psi and go from there up or down depending on the finish you want. More for less peel and less if the overspray is too much. I'd do a test spray first with both materials

@@MarcBchannel partially sanded down 55’ chevy truck cab. Going to wire wheel more of it and shoot it with black epoxy. Will probably stay that way for a while and I’ll wet sand it at a later date before single stage satin

An wat cup an tungsten are you using

Argon, #8, thoriated

@@MarcBchannel 100% argon right

@@florythm1222 yes

Your welcome. It does save the settings you last set👍

Not sure. I haven't played around with the machine recently. What I recall is that you adjust the max amperage using the knob on the pedal. The amperage adjustment on the machine doesn't do anything while the pedal is plugged in. I don't remember if I verified the pedal amp swing using the readout on the machine or if I measured it with my amp clamp but I know it was working. If yours isn't, maybe your pedal is bad. Let me know. I mite check it out later. Cheers

It s a on/off with a amp boton, so you cant control the 0 to 200 amp whit your foot, it s a garbage

@kiwibedo It works just not like on other high end machines. On more professional type machines, you set the max amperage on the machine and the pedal operates within that range. On this machine it's all controlled with the pedal. For the money it's okay for a hobby welder

Ya I bought it to fab custom stainless/aluminum piping and pie cuts. Also to fab up custom tanks, plumbing, and misc parts. I still need to up my skills on the machine but it should work good for it 👍

The cap is a direct fit. You can use the Aeropro nozzle but there is a slight difference in spray pattern because the tip of the nozzle and the hole in the cap is different. There is a small gap. It work just like the Bellaria with the Bellaria nozzle and cap but you have to use the Aeropro needle because if you use the Iwata needle you can't depress the trigger to just spray air. It just goes straight to opening the air and fluid together. This was just an experiment to see if the parts fit. Also the parts are expensive and not worth converting. I already have a Bellaria. I was just curious

Apparently it's a direct Chinese copy of the iwata bellaria

@davidharrison8397 It's similar but not an exact. I've interchanged only the caps, nozzles, and needles but if using the Bellaria cap use the Iwata nozzle and the aeropro needle. None of the internal seals or the air valve are the same. Cheers

Gracias👍

Yes I have the Hitbox pedal. I purchased it separately. I have another video of me using it