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Absolutely!

@@rpandarc9248 awesome! Looking forward to it!!

Appreciate it! I'm glad you enjoyed it

I agree!

That a good idea!!

Actually i do have plenty ideas on that like using a reefes mini servo as a winch

Yeah sorry about the length haha

Yeah! they're so much fun, I bet your build is turning out awesome!

Haha thanks man I try to pay attention to detail :)

I had 2 sets of injora links, rear was assembled normally but for the front, to get a longer wheelbase, what would be the bottom links i moved to where the wish bone link would be and the rear lower links would replace the front lower links. Essentially what I did was created a longer wheelbase but to not cut up the new body i decided to revert back to its original wheelbase. I hope this help?

yeah that works too

Why not?

No worries I changed it back a while ago. Thanks!

it was for the fitment is all

I bought them on ebay, Search: "Kinetic Recoil system for axial SCX24 1:24th scale crawlers with Kinetic shocks" they're 20 bucks with 5 shipping, I installed them a much different way than what they show in their ad, and you can mount it to where it works with your set up

it can be possible, but yeah I had a lot of cut out, and it also would've been hard to find the right paint to color match the body

Thanks! I thought so too :)

Of course! :)

Thanks! I had fun building it

sweeeeeet

Thanks! it was a fun project :)

Yes, you will lose some side hilling and hill climb ability with the high CG, especially with the rear spring being a stiffer spring rate than the front. I love seeing the articulation movement, but if you want performance, just add some wheel-weight spacers from NHX, and that alone keeps CG low and gives you a wider stance improving side hilling and hill climbing. I wouldn't stagger the rear shocks as I did in the video, just because I noticed the screw holes aren't at an equal distance so either mount both rear mounted forward or mounted in their original mounting position. I hope this helps! :)

That works too! I guess it's just preference and thanks for the follow :)

I meant to say the extended wheelbase version since the scx24 gladiator has a wheelbase of 153.7mm while all the other models have a shorter wheelbase on average of 132mm, and technically the chassis rails are longer as well.

@@rpandarc9248 thank you for the reply! Im just starting out with RCs and one of the scx24s are going to be my first so I'm trying to understand the differences between the models. I appreciate you taking the time to help me!👍

@@therelaxationbox5025 The gladiator is longest wheelbase. C10 truck, Jeep Wrangler Suv and Bronco all have the same wheelbase. The deadbolt has a different wheelbase w shorter front arms and longer rear arms. Tire sizes r different from the factory. The c10 has smaller tires then the gladiator, Bronco and Wrangler. There’s 2 versions of electronics. Blue top receiver and black top receiver. Controllers have 2 models as well. Huge aftermarket support and community for these micro crawlers. Enjoy the $150 low price and visit Injora, A Main hobbies etc for upgrades.

thanks! and Yeah! I've seen people do that too, thinking about making a second vid on fee mods :)

I'm no pro as you can see and am sure there's better ways, I'll keep that tip in mind thanks!, worked out tho :)

@@rpandarc9248 it did. You can also just get the right color leds red for brake amber for turn and do like you did with the mounts and just run it like that. Or get the light buckets for the bronco and modify to fit. Great video. Happy crawling.

That's awesome to hear, thank you for subscribing! :)

Thanks! I'm glad you like it

Thank you for subscribing! I agree, the mirrors alone help with the scale realism, I believe the mirrors and the snorkel are from Club5Racing

thanks! just had some spare stickers from another rc

Thank you! :)

Thanks bro!😁

Thanks man! I appreciate it, It did turn out pretty sweet :)

You're welcome! it is pretty cool, and I'm pretty sure there's another guy that found out about it too, I just don't remember who it was.

Thanks! and Yeah! I already have 4 of them, I need to stop before its too late lol😅

@@rpandarc9248 hahaha so true

Thanks 😁

Hi! Lipo batteries will always be dangerous no matter what and they all should be kept in a metal box/container of some sort with a breathing hole(just in case one catches fire, so it won't build pressure inside)(I don't trust any lipo fireproof bags). Although these batteries have improved and become more reliable. For lipos to last you longer and to not damage them people would use a balance charger to equally charge each cell of the lipo battery, hence why it's recommended to everyone(I wouldn't cheap out on Chargers either). However, I honestly have been using the USB chargers it comes with and hasn't had any issues(just make sure with any charger charging lipos YOU are somewhere you can keep an eye on it). I'm also glad you have been doing your own research because many would just jump into the hobby and think lipos work like any other ordinary battery, so great on your part. As for these crawlers they have pretty small 2cell batteries that are very user-friendly and you shouldn't have anything to worry about. So yes these are safe for even casual RC fans. Just make sure to read all the warnings, never leave a battery plugged into your ESC when not in use, and if you ever need to dispose of a lipo, dunk it in a bucket of water adding a ton of salt to discharge it so it's harmless, wait till the water turns green and then dispose of it. I'll make my own video talking about all this to go more into detail.

it has its disadvantages yeah, I personally love seeing the articulation movement, I know it's not that great for inclines unless you place a limit strap from the diffs to the chassis

Same, I did it to the rear and left the front alone

I agree I don't know what I was thinking :(

I don't sorry, I do plan to have some in the future

Thank you so much!

I'm it help! thank you!

I really appreciate your comments thank you! :D