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Yes I did. Thank you for asking. It was all me 😁. Since I had the offset for pointer enabled, it was showing the framing area with the pointer, as another commenter pointed out. I was looking at the wrong thing.

Tebrikler@@mancavegarage1970

If you want full factory function you will need to enable it in all the controls modules listed in the spread sheet for your make model.

That was put on to keep the spring from falling off. It was a temporary fix until I was able to repair the excessive play on the kickstand mounting.

@@mancavegarage1970 how did you fix the excessive play issue? That's what I have at the moment

@@FRJ1982 I drilled out the holes and machined bushings to bring it back to the original size.

I am not sure. I would think it would.

Thank you! I did not think about it like that. That is a great point. I have watched a couple of others and it seems like theirs would frame the laser head in the location of the cut, instead of the pointer. That you again for pointing that out. That never crossed my mind.

I still tow with it. Just have to watch the tongue weight for now. I am working on an air bag setup for the rear to increase my load capacity. The reason for this is with my one piece drive shaft I have to watch the payload I try to carry. The drive shaft can contact the frame if you are not careful.

I have never seen any standing oil in the oil filter housing before removing the filter. Also, it is impossible for all old oil to drain from the entire oiling system when doing an oil change. There is small amounts that have settled in oil galleys, lines, turbos, etc. As soon as the engine restarts after an oil change there is some about of previous oil mixed with the new fresh oil.

I used the Creality Cr-Scan Ferret. It connects to a compatible phone or computer. I used it with my Samsung s21 phone and it worked great.

@@mancavegarage1970 i see. Was quite irritated to see such a detailed scan that was „made with phone“. Thanks for the quick reply

I run 22's now but when I first did the install I ran the stock 20's. I had to use them thinner lower ball joint but they provided and trim the lower ball joint stud. It was close, but it did clear. The other issue I had running the factory 20 's was running. Either the offset of the wheel, the tires would ruin on the upper control arm in sharp turns. No issues with the 22's

Yes, you probably could get a two-inch drop with just struts, but I would not advise it. When you drop it that way you limit the normal travel of your ball joints and tie rod ends. You place them at the extreme of their travel and this causes accelerated wear and adverse steering reactions. Using the two-inch drop spindle solves those problems, plus you still maintain the stock suspension travel. So, in my opinion I would use the two-inch drop spindles with a four or five in drop in the rear. The rear flip kits work well, but make sure you get the rear shocks to fit that drop. If you just do not want to do the spindles and are okay with replacing ball joints and tie rods more often, then I would go with the 1.5” progressive rate lowering springs and the belltech struts to get the full two inches in the front. I would always suggest the caster/camber kits in the front. If you lower it, it will need to be adjusted and I don’t feel you will get the needed adjustment without them.

Thank you! It seems to be doing well so far.

I did concider buying one used, but with my lack of experience with computers I was okay spends a few more dollars to minimize any issues that may arrise. I did get a used GPU and had issues with that.

@@mancavegarage1970 Used cpus almost never have issues. You just gotta know warning signs. But a good build nonetheless, so good job!

I was on the fence about using an AIO. Some things I read said yes you should have one, others said it was not needed. I decided what the heck and got one anyway. Better to be safe than sorry.

I did not use adjustable a-arms. I did install the caster/camber adjustment kits for the lower control arms. That was mentioned is my part 1 video installing the max trac lowering kit.

@@mancavegarage1970 yes I remember that. You used MOOG but recommended IHC.

@@barnes2401 yes, that is correct. They allowed for all the adjust I needed.

Yes, I had to trim the lower ball joint stud. No I was not able to use the factory nut. My kit had a thinner nylon lock nut provided and I used that. I trimmed the stud so in stuck out past the provided lock nut just a little. The clearance is still pretty close, but it was no issue.

To do the max trac kit, for someone with some mechanical experience in your home garage with just one person. It will take about 6 to 8 hrs. If the person has a extensive mechanical background, they could probably do it in about half the time. You could add about 1 hour if you do the struts at the same time.

I have driven it about 4 months and a few thousand miles with the new struts. Yes, I have been slow on posting videos, sorry. The only difference I can tell is that it is definitely lower. I have to watch parking as the chin spoiler on the front bumper will hit parking stops. Other than that, I am well pleased.

same here

I connected like for like. I traced which wire went to which pin in the connector and wired it back in the same way.

​@@mancavegarage1970 ooh so you went and replaced those whole wires? From my understanding you just cut the three wires coming from the old stator and splice and solder the new stator wires to them?

@@higuy715 I cut the wires and used the old harness so I did not have to reroute them back though the bike. I cut one wire at a time, where it was easy access, from the stator and made sure I connected the new stator wire to the same wire/pin on the old connector.

I believe Nissan calls it a wiper amplifier.

If you have the option in you instrument cluster to enable climate control after enabling remote start with forscan then yes. You will have the option for last setting or not. It will not look like it is on until you use your key, but does work. If you chose the other option it will automatically turn on your defrost options and warm to approx 70deg F

@@mancavegarage1970 climate control grayed out but forscan settings look ok stumped

@@spaceace7920 if you have not figured it out yet, let me know and I will see what else I can find to help. It sounds like there is a setting that was not completed in the forscan setup. I know some things have changed with forscan since doing this video.

If I did it again, I would remove the front leaf spring bolts also. I believe this will help with installing the rear. After driving mine for about a year, Mr front is still higher than the rear. I am going to install the belltech adjustable struts in the front soon. I do not like the front sitting higher than the rear.

@@mancavegarage1970 bummer! I will be adding some helper bags in the rear for sure to level it out, especially when towing. I wonder why the back sits lower for some trucks when so may others have no problems? So frustrating! Be sure to post a video of the strut install!

@@tattooguy302 I am not so sure that so many are not having the same problem. I think my most use the belltech struts at the same time to get a 3 or 4" drop on the front. That allows it to sit proper with the 5" rear. But that is why some have to clearance the frame for the drive shaft also. I like the idea behind this kit, but I believe the wrong rear parts are put with the 2" front

I did not do anything with the carrier bearing on mine and I have no vibrations. It rides just like before I did the kit. No mods were needed that I recall. I did use their replacement rear shocks on the rear. If there is much of a load placed in the bed or towing a very heavy trailer you might need to do the carrier bearing mod they suggest. I am planning on installing bags in the near future for hauling

@@mancavegarage1970 That’s awesome! I am sold on switching to Maxtrac’s flip. Just got off the phone with Belltech, since their kit also dropped to 5”. They’re response; “must be something different with your truck. We’ve no idea. Maybe install our front struts and lower the front more. That’ll raise the front.” LOL no thanks. Thanks for tips, you sold me on trashing Belltech and switching to Maxtrac!

Looking at Forscan's forum, it looks like it does work on the 2017 Mondeo.

Okay, thank you. I will check it. It's never been run, but I will look it over.

I do not. If you try to go any lower then there may be issues. I have towed trailers and hauled load in it, but have not compressed the rear suspension fully yet. If you plan on carrying heavy loads I would keep and eye on it

They do stay on. I believe you have the option in the setting or forscan to enable or disable on them. Mine stay on and no additional wiring was needed.

Awesome, appreciate the feedback. Doing mine this weekend.

You do not "need" 22s. If you keep 20's you will need to use the thin lock nut they provide and cut the excess thread from the lower ball joint. Also you will experience some tire rubbing on the upper control arm in a full lock turn.

@@mancavegarage1970 do you happen to know if they'd rub if you had wheel spacers on?

@@sdlaforce25 I do not know for sure. I have not tried it. From what I have looked at, I think wheel spacers would help. I am in the process of getting new tires and looking at probably biting the bullet and buy 22"s. Rims are just crazy expensive right now. If anyone has a good source on Rims, let me know.

@@mancavegarage1970 Did you need shims for the rearend? If you live in North Carolina, near me is a place Discount Tire, they seem to have really good deals on 20's and 22's. The tires are quite a bit more for that two inch difference though.

@@sdlaforce25 No, did not use any shims. The drive line angle worked out well. I don't have any vibration. The 22's I was looking at are not that much more than the 20's. The rims though, they are what is getting pricey. I may just stick with the 20's and make some steering stops to stop the rubbing. There is a Discount Tire down the road in Jacksonville. I may check them out and see what they have.