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Man stop playing games out here you need to remove the pump to properly do the job you are just setting yourself up for failure.

😅 it will still run . I have an 4d56 engine that's slapping like crazy and burning oil but it the farm truck 🚒 so it will have to do for now.

nop!!! no luck for me! lol i'm not a fkn Audi tech , didn't know fkn valve cover was actually holding the cam, and was gonna replace that shit gasket as well by exhaust cam ,high pressure fuel pump housing whatever u call it... now about remove entire front end just to reach fkn chain tensioner ... fkn german engineers

Hi Dave, thank you for the video. I am few years late but I just purchased a 2011 Q5 2.0 TFSI and looks I need to the same. However, I have replaced many valve cover gaskets in my life time but first on Audi. So am not finding many videos on how you or others actually remove the valve or camshaft cover without rolling the rockers or the camshaft! is there a special method we need to lock them in place before starting to removing screws and the cover ? The videos I found including yours, the cover is already off so am a bit nervous as I do not have more info on how to do this! Can you Plz shed some more light on what you did to make sure the rockers do not roll or camshaft do not move ? Thank you

Thank you so much for this video. I'm about to tackle this job on a used vehicle at work and have absolutely no information to go off of. I primarily work on Subarus the most, so euro cars like this are very foreign to me. Wish me luck!

U have a link for the valve cover gasket

Hello Dave, I have the same drone, which use to work until the original owner flew it on beach sand which has high levels of iron, the motors sucked in the sand, its was given to me after it was disassembled. I replaced all 4 motors, but I can't get the my phone to pick up the drones wifi

Thanks for the video! Currently doing a handful of fixes on a 632 that I picked up and your video helped me confirm the correct o-rings to get for the port block.

So did that fix your air intrusion ?

Where the video to put it bak on

Nervous to tackle this job, worried about the timing and putting it back in place.

This is normal.

I have a 732 and am getting a whine in the pump and also white fluid. wondering if this is my issue. also the port block filter maybe. I just hate taking the damn thing apart because you always end up losing gallons of fluid and at $60 for a 5 gallong bucket a simple repair turns expensive and messy fast!

Thank you for your information this was a life saver

do you have the torque specs for the bolts please

I did it with removing everything including fuel lines.ended up struggling to put vacuum pump back on shit hard has hell to line back up!! Can’t get it to sit in came and sit flush.

This was extremely helpful! Thank you so much!

The rocker arm push up the CAM when the cover is removed. Some of them become quite loose, especially on the side where the CAM is lift up. Do you have any problem putting the cover back up with any rocker arm getting out of position? Do you have any tip in trying to get the CAM to go back down before putting the cover back?

Did you manage to put it all back together without messing the timing

Same thing happened to me. Mine were at .0065. supposed to be .0015-.002. I ended up going with a larger forged Piston and a different machine shop

While you had the valve cover off could you pick up the cam if you wanted to, I have to replace the valve seals in mine but trying to find the best/ easiest way.

Hey man, did you have the special tool to reinstall the exhaust cam actuators?

my valve cover is not fitting back i think the cams are causing this how would i fix?

HPFP comes off in about 7 minutes. The Vacuum pump take about 2 minutes after the HPFP is off. Then take off your camshaft adjuster magnet, then your variable valve timing solenoid, then Upper timing cover. Which takes about 10 minutes. Then start the cam cover removal. Great vid! Cheers Putting the engine in TDC using a long socket extension in cylinder 1, turn the crank bolt clockwise until the extension peaks, this helps with the lobes on your cams. Then the Cam cover sealant you want to use is called anaerobic, it's either red or green, this helps seal the cam cover with a very thin layer to keep tolerances correct. RTV silicone will not seal correctly with such a thin layer and has a possibility to be thick and throw off cam tolerances.

Just an update most of my issues were related to the PVC module the aftermarket PVC assembly is defective by design the OEM assembly works much better. The leaks where resolved engine is still good 30k miles later. So permatex is a feasible alternative. Again buy a new OEM PVC assembly first that may prevent oil seepage by maintaining proper internal pressures.

All the other guys have gay ass music playing in the background. You are the best. Much props

This saved me lots of works and a headache. Was ready with parts in hand but obviously not the right ones. Kept looking for more info/videos but every 2011 engine seems to a little different. Thanks a lot brother.

Thanks for taking the time to do this Video it's allowed me to gauge what sought of job it is and how to go about it and what shortcuts are potentially available. ;)

I am doing this job. fuel pump and vacuume pump are off, bolts out, but I could not get the cover off. it is stuck. any subjection?

Thanks man 2014 Audi A4 2.0t quattro couldn’t figure out why it wasn’t coming out

There's no single over head camshaft engine nowadays however is a different set up

Thanx for this video, made everything clear before starting on this pain in the ass job

Thanks sir great video

Did you have to remove the timing chain tensioner? Maybe I’m seeing stuff but I feel like the intake cam is lifting.

This drone is fully packed marketing Bullshit loaded.. I ordered nocchi 4d-f3 gps drone.. I receive a zero gps.. Can't calibrate.. Waste of.money. My old Eachine e58 is way more better than this..

thanks it helped dident find any info on this either so i was shootin in the dark taking it apart

Bro Audi.... not otty jesus.....

Thanks for help i was ready too take timing chain off

It's only side to side not up-and-down

That's normal for a little slack pistons need to have space to expand under heat

u gotta release the tension from the timing chain before u take the valve cover off on the tfsi motor

This helped me so much, I couldn't figure out what kept holding the valve cover in place and there is so little information regarding audi repairs - especially in some of the older models. Helped me out a ton, thanks brother

thanks for the video and all the details!!

I've done this same repair and it's a challenging one for sure. The components you didn't remove from the valve cover can stay attached during removal, but I found that trying to reinstall the cover with them in was impossible. 1 bolt and they're out and they're all identical so no worries about mixing them up. My advice is to remove them tho. The metal gasket between the cover and high pressure pump on the car I repaired was ripped so I had to remove the pump. You can do that without removing fuel lines and there's enough room towards the firewall that the pump can be pushed back, gasket in, and then pump reinstalled so it runs off the cam. It's a bugger of a job but not impossible

Dam. Sorry I had not seen this video before. I have already bought a valve cover gasket set for the leaking oil on mine. I have check mine again and see if its the same but mine is a 2011 Q5 2.0 TFSI

hi!!! Dave. Before we take off the valve cover, we should do what to hold 2 camshafts??? Please......help me

Thanks bro save me I got the job done with this video

I have the same machine. Bucket works up and down/tilt. Squeals a bit. But not drive pressure or movement at all. Any ideas?

The pistons were fine and quiet once the clearance was goodm the machine shop went 3 times the spec for clearance.