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Glad you enjoyed it

Thanks Andrew. I’ll have a look at them 👌

Hi, with a gas boiler the temperature would be around 70 degrees going through the radiator but with the heat pump it’s more like 42.5 so we need more surface area to give off the same amount of heat.

Depends upon how you define "need". If, for greater efficiency, you wanted to run your gas boiler at 45ºC, then that would also need radiators of that size. Efficiency of heat pumps varies more with flow temperature for a heat pump, which is why there is the concentration on low flow temperatures, they can work at higher temperatures and still save a mass of carbon. Most gas installations don't consider efficiency, which is why most condensing gas boilers with quoted efficiencies of say 95% only achieve around 80% when installed.

Thank you.

Hi, so far this system has ran 460% efficient on heating and 360% efficient on hot water (Vaillant onboard monitoring). I am hoping to get some customer feedback videos.

@@greenhomeheatingltd Excellent! Thank you Mark!

Yes we did.

Unfortunately nothing can beat gas for the compact size. There are other heat pump off ions available such as exhaust air but you need to be able to get vents from kitchens and bathrooms back to the heat pump and it’s still the size of a fridge freezer.

Because of MCS regs. In theory a high temp HP could be a straight swap for a gas boiler - they both heat up water. Or add insulation and an ordinary monobloc ASHP.

@@johnhunter4181 although heat pumps are capable of high outputs the max design temp for them is still 55 degrees under mcs. We don’t often go much higher than 45 degrees to be honest to try and maximise efficiencies

@@greenhomeheatingltd I must say the quality of your install looks amazing. A friend had his done this week by Octopus - took eighteen man-days and it was quite a mess. But only £2.2k in the end so... My point is simply that the MCS regs make any install very much more complicated than it needs to be. The high flow temp would only be required on the few very coldest days, but you'll probably have your Christmas jumpers by then so do we really care? Freezing cold winter days are usually clear and the sun streaming into my house will overheat it if anything. And there are these things (also banned by MCS) called portable convectors or fan heaters to get you through. Of course at the coldest times you're likely to be tucked up in bed anyway.

Hello. You would need to open a drain valve on the system and drop the pressure to 1.5 bar

Hello. This can be a problem. Is your airing cupboard smaller than the one in this house? I have seen some people built a little shed outside to house the cylinder next to the outdoor unit but it depends how much space you have.

@greenhomeheatingltd yeah it's smaller than the one in your video. No option for us to build outside either due to current layout and lack of space. Just thinking ahead and it's quite worrying as at some point in the future the government will obviously have a real push towards these systems while applying tarrifs and taxes on gas which will penalise those who genuinely don't have the space.

z the heat geek mini store could be a brilliant option for you. Not quite as efficient as a full cylinder but certainly opens the market to more people.

ruclips.net/video/3QAX6ygW9HM/видео.htmlsi=N1Z2IT8rwOAajbbX

Hello. Yes you can. We have done similar in this video - ruclips.net/video/8bdaCkOTNOQ/видео.htmlsi=9X93uA_xDXPptz_d

Hi, the house is not as big as it looks. The sun room area is an unheated space and not part of the heat loss.

Always learning!!

@@greenhomeheatingltd Always

Thanks Andy

True, all comparisons are with all singing all dancing heat pumps as opposed to high temperature gas boiler with a on/off thermostat

Hi, we don’t have f gas qualifications so all of our installs are mono units. I believe split can be better for larger primary runs.

Hi, That depends on what the maximum demand in the home is. Before the installation we calculate or test this and notify the power grid of the planned install. Most of the time it’s ok but they have came out to upgrade the fuse on a few occasions.

Hi, what factors made you go with a split instead of a Monoblock?

Hi, this install took 3 days to complete.

Hi Richard. Thanks for the comment. This one was complete in 3 days.

Hi, thank you for the recommendation. If you pass them our details I will be happy to help them. Mark

Thank you. We have done the external pipework in trunking before but we find this method gives better protection. We let the customer decide which way they prefer it doing though. He also chose the location as to what suited his plans for the garden best and also gave the best airflow around the unit. The internet connection allows us to remotely fine tune the system by dialling in the weather curve and also gives the customer access to an app to let them see how the system is performing.

@@greenhomeheatingltd Thanks for the reply. I thought the position may not have been your choice but I think the owner may regret hos choice later. I guess it can be changed if needed if at a cost. And maybe I am too much of a conspiracy theorist regarding the internet connection but I know legislation has recently been passed to allow the government to insist on remote access to 'connected' white goods in the future (Fridges, washing machines) in kitchens to verify that they are eco friendly and control when they can be operated

Thank you, I’m pleased you enjoyed the video. It’s a little outside of our area unfortunately. Hopefully you manage to find a good local installer.

Hi Richard, sorry I should have added that in. The total cost was just over £5000 to the customer. A similar system with Vaillant boiler and unvented cylinder would have been £6000+ for the same standard equipment and controls. The heat pump has been running at a combined efficiency of 450% so is already saving him on running costs as well.

Thanks for such a quick response. I must assume that the 'cost to the customer' took into account government grants of about £7500 so the true cost of the installation would be about £12000. It is this cost which has to be used to show savings which should include the cost of electricity to run the HP. For future installations the subsidies/grants/tax credits will not be available. I currently heat my 3 bed detached house and hot water for about £1500 pa with a combi boiler so about 8 years of heating and hot water just to cover the HP installation excluding the running cost.

@@richardlewis5316 yes that’s correct that’s the cost after the grant. I agree once the grants are no longer around it’s going to be expensive to install, the main expense is in the initial system set up. Heat pumps should be cheap to swap like for like after that point. If your boiler is perfectly fine it’s definitely going to be a cost, but if it’s an older boiler like this one that initial expense was going to have to be paid anyway for a new system so this customer actually saved money getting a heat pump over upgrading their system. Heat pumps generally cost more than combi to combi installations but system conversions and full installations can work out cheaper (with the grant and no vat, while it lasts)

@@greenhomeheatingltd The customer had already over sixed his Rads & i guess pipe to them was all 22 mm. If not for that, New Rads & Pipework or UFH would add quite a bit. Although VAT relief would be on all of it if done at the same time.

@@markfernandes2467​​⁠all the pipework was existing 22mm primaries splitting down to 15mm. You don’t always have to repipe and can sometimes even get away with 10mm plastic depending on the heat needed to feed the room. It’s all down to correct heat loss and calculations

Could you please explain what you mean? The heat pump is a 5kw unit for a house with 4.75kw heat loss. And the design temperature of 45 degrees is what was achievable without the customer changing all of his radiators and costing him extra money. This system will easily be over 400% efficient over the year.

The Vaillant might have a 5kW label on it but at that design temperature it will output 5.8kW as per its technical specifications. The 3.5kW version would be quite marginal at that design temperature, probably needing more radiator upgrades. By only looking at Vaillant you're making a choice of either oversizing by 25% or struggle to meet peak heating at design temperature. There has to be a heat pump out there that better fits the design parameters than one that will likely low power cycle quite often.

@@michaelwinkley2302 yes this unit will output around 5.8kw at design temp. The customer really wanted a Vaillant unit though and this was the best fit for the job. The 3.5 unit only gives around 4.2kw at the temperatures we need but the it is essentially a restricted 5kw anyway so you might as well upsize to have the faster hot water recovery and the same minimum outputs. What makes would you recommend for in between sizes? I’m always happy to look at other options but the Vaillant has been such a good unit we tend to stick with it where ever possible.

It's hard to recommend a specific brand because not enough manufacturers actually list their technical specifications with enough detail to make an informed choice. A quick search suggested that Baxi list their specs to the same standard as Vaillant, but I've not looked to see whether they'd have a heat pump that would meet this particular scenario. Most seem to only publish A7W35 despite MSC and NBHC guidance being A-3W45 design temperature. Some do seem to list A-5W45 maximum and nominal (which seems odd). Honestly, the manufacturers probably need to make it easier for your industry, since most installers aren't as informed as you are.

@@michaelwinkley2302 I agree. The size on the badge can be a bit confusing. I think posting the lower level of modulation would be really good as well. There are a few brands out there that may do a heat pump closer to the maximum output needed for this scenario but I know the Vaillant would still manage to outperform it over the year with the better technology and controls. I have heard brands like NIBE are good but it’s getting the time to do the training to fully understand and optimise them.

Hi, the Vaillant can be around 20m for the primary pipework.

Thanks for the reply

Hi Geoff, our main training for heat pumps was via the Heat Geek course. I have been on lots of other heat pump courses but they are pretty rubbish unfortunately.

@@greenhomeheatingltd so ‘Heat Geek’ is good, most others are poor?

@@geoffmansfield2668 the others I have attended have been pretty poor. I have hear of a few other low temp design courses that are supposed to be good such as Kimbo Betty but I have not been on it myself.

Glad you liked it 👌

Wow, you're in the comments. Yup, this was a good video. Very different style from your own. I like both. I actually sent an email to the person who deals with your SM a few months back & asked if you could do a job for me. It was to renovate a whole bathroom, create an en suite, & first, swap out a heat only unvented set up for a combi or a heat pump. (If HP, then UFH too) I'm not sure you do HPs though but I'd probably end up going with a Combi anyway, less hassle. Quite a lot to do here and a lot of creativity & skill needed, so thought it would suit you.

Hi, the heat pump has been located on the other side of the house to where the old boiler was so needed a new route to the cylinder cupboard.

Yes this house was all 22mm and 15mm pipework to radiators already. If you have 10mm copper pipework this can work but the correct calculations need to be done. 10mm plastic is more difficult.

@@greenhomeheatingltd Nice tidy install. When we renovated our house back in 2004 we used a mixture of John Guest plastic and copper. The heating tee's off in two different directions at the boiler, the original house is fed via 22mm plastic, this feeds a zoned manifold, and then individual 15mm plastic to each radiator, the other half of the house is done in copper. As we have 15mm plastic, but each rad has its own feed and return do you think this will be an issue due to the inserts? I can't see how this is different to 10mm microbore, as the ID of the inserts is 9mm. I realise the zoning will need to go though.

@greenhomeheatingltd Thanks, and yes, I have 10mm copper drops to all the radiators.

Thanks. We usually remove most of the TRV’s from radiators to make sure the majority of the system remains open to get the correct flow rates. We then use testo temperature clamps to check the DT is correct across all of the radiators and make sure it’s all balanced nicely. If a radiator is slightly oversized we might leave a trv on to help limit the room temp in that room.

Hello, Thanks for the comment and glad you enjoyed the video. We try not to install buffers at all if possible. Sometimes a volumiser is needed if the system does not meet minimum volumes needed but this one was fine. We find going open loop will give you much better efficiencies so that would mean removing the blending valve and individual control of the downstairs underfloor system. Then just control it from Vaillant’s main control which I would definitely recommend paying the extra for over daikin. I have the same set up in my own house. I good installer should be able to work out the output of the floor then size the upstairs radiators to suite so it all runs at the same temperature. I hope this helps.

Hello, We use antifreeze valves on our installations and fit them at the lowest point. If there was ever a power cut during cold weather conditions it would open and drain the system of water to prevent it from freezing.

Did you have to use antifreeze inhibitor?

@@T22ngs we used antifreeze valves on this job not glycol.

@@greenhomeheatingltd You went with no buffer on this system right? When would you use one?

​@@markfernandes2467 Usually when you don't have enough volume of water for defrosting. Or when the minimum flow can't be acheived through the current pipes. But either way it is more money for equipment and less efficient.

Hi, The pipework on this one was all 15 and 22mm through the heating system. Do you have 10mm copper pipework. Depending on what size radiators it is supplying sometimes you can get away with 10mm but the installer would need to do the calculations. We recently installed a system that has 10mm coming off a manifold to all radiators and it’s working extremely well.

@@greenhomeheatingltdcould you share some more videos on the surveying and heatloss calc part of the design and also how to get the correct flow and volumes in the system? Cheers

Glad you enjoyed the video and thanks for the feedback. I’ll try to show a lot more of the equipment and even the Vaillant app in the next one 👌