- Видео 100
- Просмотров 135 675
Probably Can't Fix it
США
Добавлен 2 янв 2022
Trying to learn how to troubleshoot and fix electronic things.
Видео
Nintendo Switch No Charge or Boot (My First Customer Job)
Просмотров 6164 месяца назад
The console would not charge the battery after charging overnight, nor would it boot with a fully charge battery.
PS5 Digital-2 Second BLOD
Просмотров 2994 месяца назад
This console had an original UART Code of 80801640 which I believe was related to a RAM issue.
Atari Lynx I Aliexpress Screen Mod, DC Jack, Button Fix
Просмотров 1145 месяцев назад
This tested my patience.
Learning the Atari Lynx
Просмотров 735 месяцев назад
I started off knowing nothing about the Atari Lynx, and now I know a little.
Nintendo N64 Video Signals using O'Scope
Просмотров 976 месяцев назад
I am not an expert but this is what I think should be looked for using an oscilloscope.
N64 No Boot
Просмотров 2,3 тыс.6 месяцев назад
I was, and still am, thoroughly confused about N64s. Sorry for the long video but, this took a while to do.
Trying to fix Two Nintendo Wii's
Просмотров 2066 месяцев назад
Trying my hand at fixing a couple of Wii's I have had for 2 years.
Sega Game Gear Aliexpress IPS Screen
Просмотров 1,6 тыс.6 месяцев назад
This is the screen I purchased: www.aliexpress.us/item/3256804402184169.html?spm=a2g0o.order_list.order_list_main.20.bf47140f889Uw4&gatewayAdapt=glo2usa
Nintendo switch wont boot and then would not read games
Просмотров 3569 месяцев назад
This was a confusing Switch Lite.
Trying to fix a Switch Wont Boot
Просмотров 5609 месяцев назад
This is a journey into getting a switch out of RCM mode but I did not know that at first.
Repairing an Orbit B-Hyve Automatic Sprinkler Controller- No AC Detected
Просмотров 6 тыс.9 месяцев назад
Repairing an Orbit B-Hyve Automatic Sprinkler Controller- No AC Detected
A Water Damaged Switch That I gave up On
Просмотров 1829 месяцев назад
A Water Damaged Switch That I gave up On
Trying to fix a Nintendo Switch Lite from Ebay
Просмотров 55610 месяцев назад
Trying to fix a Nintendo Switch Lite from Ebay
Lenovo Ideapad 500s Trying to Understand the BIOS
Просмотров 23110 месяцев назад
Lenovo Ideapad 500s Trying to Understand the BIOS
GBA SP Missing Power Switch and more
Просмотров 70010 месяцев назад
GBA SP Missing Power Switch and more
Gameboy Advance SP Internittent Power on (Simple Fix)
Просмотров 12011 месяцев назад
Gameboy Advance SP Internittent Power on (Simple Fix)
you have a link with the bios bin file?
Please tell us the specific tools you use for soldering, amplification, and diagnostics, because the one I bought off amazon doesn't seem to work. Either that or I am not operating them right. Thank you
Hi, I use a Yihua 995D+ soldering station, an Andonstar Microscope, and a Hanmatek HM305 power supply for voltage injection. I have a Flir One USB-C thermal camera for looking for shorts.
@ Thank you very much.
Nice you are back, not watched the video yet I am just about to. :)
Thank you.
Hi bro How can I contact you? I need org ps5 bois file cfi-1216
I do not have a CFI-1216, only CFI-1215a.
Curious as to, what exactly does , lifting a leg mean ?
Great video Bro, keep up, i repaired the board watching this vid, and is the same diode that you replaced, 😊
I’m curious as to whether re-flowing the original BQ chip would have resulted in anything. Wondering if a bad/cracked solder joint (perhaps from a drop) could have caused the issue.
excuse me, there are no parts 1 and 2?
They make screens for it now.
Nice
That worked. Saved me some $$, thank you!!
I have a switch lite I'm trying to figure out the issue I have recently got the screw tips I need and the CPU with light pressure applied still wont work
please what's the name of the removed object
Hello, my good friend, I don't understand the video after 18 minutes. Can you explain a bit?
I have the same install, the bright/dim contrast only goes dim but still playable contrast, so not full on/off. Is this normal with this kit? I expected it to dim down to off. I measured the potentiometer value and it goes full range, measured at the screen mod connector.
Mine was very similar to yours. I did remove some of the components that were specifically for the high voltage circuit but it did not really seem to affect it.
After replacing the diode the "No AC" warning went away but the screen is completely blank. Any ideas on what might cause that? I put a new battery in as well
Sorry Jeff, I am not sure. You can try taking the screen board out and see if you find anything damaged on it.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Thank you for the reply. No worries, it has inspired me to get back into my old hobby/job and build my own microcontroller based solution. That way I can always fix it myself. Cheers and Merry Christmas everyone!
Great! Thank you so much for sharing your troubleshooting!! I've replaced the Schottky diode and it is working again. I've used SK16, it is a little bigger than de B160 but fits perfect.
Awesome job, I am glad you got it fixed.
Hey there, I had one of these controllers fail (No AC) after a power surge, and thinking I must have just got a dud, went out and bought another one. How dumb was that? It failed 4 months outside warranty at the end of this season. I found your video, and having never done this type of electronic repair before, purchased a bag of diodes, an iron and some solder, followed your lead, and now I have two working controllers. I needed a win today, lol. Thank you SO much for taking the time to share your knowledge and skill.
You are welcome, and I am glad you got it fixed.
hello, nice video. Where is the wi-fi antenna? because it doesn't connect to the internet anymore.
Well done! I’ll send you 2 of mine 😂
Literally the simplest install ever. And ive done funny playing IPS( super hard) and bennvenn a little tedious with the ribbon cable.
Agreed. It was very simple.
What type of air gun are you using this takes a century with mine
I am currently using a Yihua 995D+. I did buy an Atten, but I have not removed it from the box yet.
You came around. All hail the algorithm!
Thanks.
I just subscribed, good job brother. informative and i like your vibe. :)
Thanks, much appreciated.
Good job 👍
Thank you.
I believe in you champ, post more!
Thanks, I will try.
interesting. better check with diode mode for the values on the caps... in this way you will have more fixed value across all boards
That is a good point. Next time I will do so. I have never seen one that was only outputting 3.2V on VSYS, but I am glad I decided to check it.
The first customer will be happy, esp if you fixed it for free that was a really nice thing to have done. Nice job on that BQ.
The young fellow will be happy I am sure.
Nice fix. Post more please.
Thanks, I will try to keep posting.
Great Job!
Thanks.
oh crap. i didn't ask you if you check the resistance value on the coils for the apu to see if there is a short. a crack on the DIE will surely show a short on the power rails directly connected so if you check the resistances and compare with another board you can cyheck if the APU is still potentially good or not
I did, and I thought they looked normal. I will check again.
Thanks mate subscribed, curiosity got the better of me and I killed a working ps5 slim after watching computer boosters Friday stream. EDM-040. He had a 2 second blod. I thought I would check around the area where he had shorts. Was checking stand by voltages then tested power on voltages only to find now I have also have a 2 sec blod and shorts all over the same area around the SBV and a few other areas. Anyway pretty pissed if that I broke a working console. Using Cod3ers Uart tool I’m getting the dreaded 8081001, I don’t see how I could have killed the APU by checking voltages? Anyway if you feel like helping his ps5 repair starts at 4:33:46 ruclips.net/user/liveh3UHjWCwys4?si=mOsa1H1kSGECd-_V I also made a post on Computer Booter/forum-discussion discord to see what he thinks ? I saw your video from 5 months ago on the ps5 with various error codes including 80810001 and you fixed it with a HDMI ic replacement? However I’m only getting the one error and shorts in a completely different area? Oh well these ps5 and crazy and at least I now have an experience parts board. No many people have worked on the slims.
Thanks for the video, the APU to me does look least damaged so probably a reball will not work, still you did what you could and traced down the fault which is all you can do in this situation.
Thanks, I appreciate it. I agree the APU is probably done for.
18:40 there is a cap missing and that is a dataline but i don't know if that was the donor or the board you were trying to fix for now to me looks like a sort of ssd issue. i really hate this system made from sony. you can't be sure if it is an ssd issue because is soldered and you can't pull it out to see if at least the console can boot and say the message "cannot find the storage disk" . the console is not going into safemode probably because is constantly try to load the software from the ssd. or can be a connection issue then yes under apu. but to me is unlikely. i mean... solder mix nowadays are pretty strong and durable. there is no guarantee obviously but if the console was not dropped or suffer from heavy overheating issues is unlikely to me. another good thing that i miss from ps4 is the terminal where can show you the boot process and if there is any error also there. like load bios error or other stuff to point you into a direction. is not a bad thing reball the apu, because you can rule out completely those "shrodinger balls cracked or not who now?" but if is not that the problem you can end up having a cooked APU and at that point is GAME OVER
Understood. The missing cap was from the donor that I was comparing with. I first thought of the SSD as well, which is why I was trying to compare those. I may wait and see if more information comes available about this issue.
Thank you for the video! C0020303 is always directly APU related from experience, reading many threads on discord. I really liked the indepth diagnosing steps you went through. I would really like to see a ps5 apu reball but its honestly not gonna work, as you can see visible damage to the apu :(
Yeah, I was worried about the APU. I wasn't sure if it was superficial or not, but it looked cracked to me. Thanks for the comment very helpful.
Ever look at that trace?
Sorry, no. I will pull it out and record a video while looking. I promise.
lol 🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 look a bit beaten up... but definitely the perfect console to have some extreme experiments.
LOL, yeah it was in rough condition.
Very easy to follow video thank you, just a quick question. The bottom side of the diode, (the side where it said D2) that is ground isn't it? can't seem to see any circuit leading away from it, so guessing it is straight to ground on the PCB. Thank you
I cannot remember. The other side may be ground but don't think I checked..
When I was trying to remove the old diode the top came off okay but the bottom bit left the board, I think it was half loose already. Was trying to trace back to where it came from. If it is ground I was just going to pick it up beside it on the board. Thanks
@@peterbarker8639 I understand. You lifted the pad from the board. If you scrape back the solder mask around the pad, you should be able to see if it was connected to the ground plane. At 16.29 of the video, it looks like it is connected to the plane surrounding that area.
Thanks. Yes when I looked at the pad it seemed to be connected to the ground plane. I tried scraping the board back to the ground plane and connecting the new diode up. When I plugged the power back in the 'NO AC' went off then it started flashing, but nothing else came up on the screen. There must be something else wrong with my board. Thank you for your time and help.
@@peterbarker8639 You are quite welcome. Hopefully, you can figure out what the issue is.
I like your videos as you show your thinking and it is like watching an exploration happening on a circuit board. Thanks for posting this I was hooked until the end wanted to see how things worked out.
Thanks. I kept hoping that I would get it and it was very interesting to troubleshoot. I think I need to read an electronics book so I can become more familiar with these types of things.
@@probablycantfixit6426 It's always good to learn more. I have a very old electronics book that my Dad gave me, it has really nice hand drawings in. Despite it being old I think quite alot still applies today. At times I think you are too hard on yourself. We can't fix everything I know I certainly don't, I fail more than I fix, but just enjoy the challenge. I think you have a good methodical approach and I like the journey you take us on in the videos.
@@ISquishWorms That is very nice for you to say. I will keep at it.
Nice video, that soldering on the screen connector looked tricky but you did a nice job on that.
Thanks.
Sir, you should be commended and congratulated for your troubleshooting, diagnosis, and repair skills. I had the same issue with my controller. I watched your video a few times, ordered the part through Amazon (next day delivery), replaced the part on the controller, and it now works again. Wow. Thank you for your time and effort to make this video; I am very grateful. A couple of things: 1) wondering what the root cause of the diode failure is; any thoughts?, and 2) do you think that the replacement diode will be robust and not fail like the original one? Thank you again (a proud owner of 99 Schottky diodes :)
That is great news. Question 1: I think the root cause is power surges on AC mains that over time, weaken the diode, and result in the diode shorting. It has been, most likely, designed this way. Question 2: I am sure it will last for a while, but it will fail eventually. What can be done, is you can contact Mouser or Digikey, and they should be able to help you find the exact replacement for your system. They could help you find a diode that would last as long as the original part or longer.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Appreciate your response. Thank you again.
Excellent thanks. Had this issue on an orbit 6 station controller and unfortunately threw it away. Bought a replacement 12 station unit and alas the same issue on this one 2 years later.. Found this video....spent $1.00 at the local electronics store and replaced the shottky and she all works. Would have cost me A$290.00 to replace again otherwise.
That is great, I am glad you got it fixed.
Absolute legend!! Thanks for posting this video! Had two separate controllers stop working within a month of each other and was dreading having to spend lots of Aussy dollars replacing them. Few bucks and a couple diodes later, problem solved! Never soldered in my life before, you made it too easy.. I used SS16 1A 60V Schottky diode off Amazon which worked on both controllers. And now I'm armed with a soldering iron walking around the house looking for things to melt..i mean mend.
That is awesome. It is OK to melt stuff, just not your stuff.
Just replaced the caps in mine and it still turns off when you turn it on same as before replacing caps. You can see the sega legal disclaimer on the screen before it shuts off.
Can you monitor your voltage rails to see if the voltage is dropping when you power on the console? For example, you should have 5V and it should be steady after the console is switched on. Also, there is a tremendous amount of information here: www.retrosix.wiki/getting-to-red-light-boot-game-gear
@probablycantfixit6426 interesting. I let it sit then suddenly it worked. It would crash while playing a game then suddenly has worked ok so far after that.
@@probablycantfixit6426 voltages were normal.
Now its doing it again turns off right away. So strange it worked fine before.
@@chriss4365 That is definitely a strange fault. I am assuming you have rechecked all the solder joints on the caps? Are you pulling power from batteries or DC jack?
Defeat is good it is how we learn and improve and this one was always going to be super tough if not impossible. You did what could be done, this video also shows that you are genuine and post your fails as well as your wins. I wish you had kept me guessing though rather than tell me up front in the video title, I will always watch till the end win or fail I enjoy guessing how things will turn out. Here is to the next video thank you for the content.
Thanks for the comment. I will leave it out next time. I am like you, I don't really care of the person fixes it or not, I just like the process.
ya it one the 8 tabs that are the outside connector at less found something just checking
ya just boult n64 console at video store the day had bent cartage connecter fix was bent tab on the outside cartage connecter fix by bend back i noteced on your it was bent use pilers and flat srew driver had same problam fixed not say its the same problam your haveing
Gotcha, thanks for the information. I will take a look at it.
OH GOD! hope you didn't spent too much on that
LOL, I spent more than I should have.
hello everything is fine ? Could you help me? I have a one s, which is not showing an image! I changed the ci hdmi u8b2 and still no image!! I found 5 volts on pin 18 of the hdmi connector, on pin 19, with the cable connected it gives 2 volts, is this voltage on pin 19 correct?
Have you tried swapping in another hard drive? Hard drive's can cause no image
@@probablycantfixit6426 yes... already test the hard drive! What voltage would have to be on pin 19 of the HDMI connector? because I have 2 volts, with cable connected! on pin 18 we have 5 volts!
@@jairjuniordasilvalima1982 If I remember correctly, you should have 5V on pin 18 (console to TV) and 5V on pin 19 (TV to console). Pin 19 is called Hot Plug Detect according to the HDMI specification. That 5V tells the console that there is something plugged in.
Let me go one step further. When U8B1 receives the 5V Hot Plug Detect, it sends out a 3.3V signal through R8B4 which goes to U8B2 (retimer). You can try and measure the 3.3V at R8B4 to see if you are getting the 3.3V. I think your problem may be U8B1. There are a lot of videos on how to bypass that to check and see if it is bad.
@@probablycantfixit6426 Thanks for the help.. I'll check the voltages now
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching things being fixed.
You are quite welcome, thanks for the comment.