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They are also really the only name in the game at the $100 price point. If I could find a MGC at a good price that would be my dream find. Funny story when master replicas recreated the ESB Hoth Dl-44 they used a cleaned up Denix but forgot to remove the Denix Diamond logo LOL.

3D builder usually comes preinstalled on Windows 10 machines, though if you don't have it you can download it from here- 3d-builder.en.uptodown.com/windows

Thank you, I've never thought of that. I'll give it a try in the future.

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I picked colors I knew would dry fast, so we waited about an hour between coats. You should probably wait over night on most spray paints in a can.

I’m down for this!

Drink

I used original Gorilla Glue. Gorilla glue has a local facility here in my town where several friends work so I like to support local. Also its a really good glue. the original gorilla glue is moisture activated so adding water to both sides you want to glue, it foams up which fills gaps and its workable in about an hour and it seams to work well with the lost foam casting process. PVA glue is my alternate choice and also works good, just takes longer and the bond isn't as strong.

@@blasterpro7860 Tnx Man! So if it's moisture activated... it's a kind of CA glue i think! Well you know... my question is not a stupid question... there are ton of videos and articles on the web about glueing XPS foam together... some glue solvent base melt the foam, other water based don't stick together because the the XPS foam is a kind of impermeabilized surface... so thanks for your hint Sir!

@@Guttalaser yeah, gluing foam isn't always the easiest to do. Gorilla Glue Original is a moisture activated polyurethane adhesive and requires moisture to start the curing process. This is why it doesn't eat foam. Most contact cements like barge also won't work because there solvents meltfoam. You can use spray contact cement like 3m 77, it's solvents do eat the foam but there is a lower amount of solvent and the melting is kept to a minimum. 3m supper 77 is what I used to glue together the large blocks of foam to scult.

@@charlescraig8950 Tnx and cheers from Italy, Man (Sicily indeed!)

The video did have audio, but the fact we where using a vapor extraction system it made the audio unusable for parts of the video. Also we made this while we where preparing for our large charity event and con which the helmets where used. If you look at the comments I have answered many questions people have asked, including materials, what processes I used and how magnets work for keying the mold.

ruclips.net/user/liveLiHhDSIYRp8?feature=share Also here's an episode from our podcast on making helmet molds that goes into great detail.

The material is called Onyx, it's made by Smooth-on. It is a thick urethane resin that works well for roto casting, also has good thermal properties.

@@blasterpro7860 What is the black shell used above made of?

@@cloudy95979 I also used Onyx for the outer shell, that and fiber glass mat. I had lots of Onyx on hand at that time but I could have just as easily used fiberglass resin also. The outer shell is just for supporting the silicon mold and holding the over all shape. You can use almost anything thats rigid for the outer shell. People use many different materials for their outer shells, all depends on their own preference. I used plaster just the other day to support an open faced silicon mold, I knew the mold was going the only have 4 or 5 castings so to save money and keep the cost down I made a thin silicon mold backed with plaster, total cost just under $50. So for 5 castings the mold cost turned out to be less than $10 per cast. I had made a thicker silicon mold and backed it with a more expensive material the cost would be over $100, which makes the cost per casting over $20. Depending on the intended use of the mold and the number of castings you plan to make from your mold can help you decide what materials to use for the outer shell.

I consider that, but figured the simple shape and no tricky details a vent wouldn't be needed. We think we failed because of moisture in the sand. The sand was new and sealed in bags so the sand being wet wasn't expected. I think the moisture re-wet our coating and steam opened up the coating and created paths in the sand for the aluminum to flow.

That sounds like a reasonable conclusion. I look forward to seeing your next videos on casting.

@@charlescraig8950 I think the dampness of the sand was indeed the key contributing factor to the failure of the casting. The sand needs to be dry enough to flow freely. When you look at the part, the points of failure are all on the bottom facing side of the part, it looks like the sand hadn't flowed in to completely fill those areas under the pattern and thus there wasn't enough support for the casting. On a different note, thanks for showing us a failure, many youtubers wouldn't have which is a shame because many times, success is built on prior failures and we often learn more from failure than we do from success. So thank you.