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@@monkeyhobbies thank you for your comment. South Africa military in general is not popular in the modeling world. Manufacturers seem to supply kits & liveries that they know will sell; like USA, German, Japan, Russia & recently the Ukraine. There are manufacturers that throw in a ZA livery on their decal sheets, like Italeri, Airfix, Eduard & ICM but the only kits specifically South African are from Hobby Boss, Trumpeter & Kinetic. Hopefully someday this will change.

@@bazzzilio thank you for your comment. However I don’t take your negative comment seriously for the following reasons: A) You have clearly failed to read the reasons for the bad quality in the description & previous comments, which leads me to assume that you ignorant or have an intelligence deficit. B) It’s easy to critique someone but it only becomes relevant if are able & have produced better. It’s like a fart in the wind - you hear it but unnoticeable & insignificant! Pretty evident from the content on your channel where nothing is recorded or edited by yourself. Therefore if you can’t or haven’t done better then it is best to shut-up!

@@anthonyricco5522 thank you. If I had the Ultra 2024 airbrush when I was learning I’m certain that I would have progressed in my airbrush skills a lot quicker & with less frustration.

@@gregoryswart5191 thank you. I’m sure that you will achieve better results with the Ultra 2024.

@gary33558 awesome to hear that you’re starting your airbrush journey with one of the worlds best airbrush brands. I wish that the Ultra 2024 was out when I was beginner as it would have helped me progress far easier & quicker. Thank you for watching & enjoy your airbrushing journey.

@@vadymkalyuzhnyy3027 thank you for watching the video & I’m not going to apologize for the low quality for the following reasons: 1) Most of the footage was shot using an iPhone 8. Yes there are newer phones on the market but I’m an unemployed freelance artist & a new phone is out of my budget especially here in South Africa where phones are imported & therefore cost 2,5 times more than in the USA. 2) As mentioned my budget is very limited & that includes purchasing data that will enable me upload to my channel therefore uploading at 720p is economically affordable for me at this time. However if you wish to contribute financially or donate a newer iPhone model, I can provide my PayPal link. It would be greatly appreciated & I would be very grateful too. For me I see this as a positive because you watched the video & left a comment which increases my rating with the RUclips algorithm. Thank you.

@@jr7392 thank you for watching this video. I appreciate your comment. The Mirage iiiCZ has always been a favorite of mine & I had the opportunity to witness it in combat operations during my deployment in Angola 1988. So I’ve always been inspired to build a Mirage iiiCZ. I will build another Mirage iii but with a Natural Metal Finish. There’s also plans to build a Mirage F-1 CZ or AZ which will be a step-by-step video build.

@@b-creative_dbn I commented before I realized you are from Durban, so your choice of colors makes sense! I also like the F1 Mirage but the only one in 1/48 is the defunct Kitty Hawk kit. Angola in 1988 must have been "interesting" to say the least. I hope that you stay well, the times are a lot stranger than they were back then.

@@jr7392 correct, I’m from Durban. Italeri also has the Mirage F-1. Originally molded in the late 70’s but was retooled around 2010, with the addition of some new parts with better details. It’s definitely worth buying if you’re able to find one.

@@b-creative_dbn Oh yes, I forgot that one. ESCI molds if I recall. I tend to discount those as they are not that good in terms of detail, but of course can be "spruced up" as needed.

@@jr7392 I have both the ESCI & the retooled Italeri kits - quality of the plastic is better, no flash, panellines are more refined & don’t fade out at the top & bottom of the fuselage & lastly the updated parts like the exhaust nozzle, burner ring & ejection seat is definitely worth buying & building.

@@gregoryswart5191 thank you, I appreciate your compliment. Getting the Deep Buff colour almost 100% accurate is definitely a plus as I have plans to build a F-86/CL-13 Sabre with a camouflage scheme in the near future.

@@andreyvasiljev2747 thank you for watching & I appreciate your compliment.

@@jpoehlerking thank you for watching & I appreciate your comment.

@@guyheinis103 I agree. Thank you for watching & be sure to check back in the next few days as the next update to this build will be uploaded. 😎

I am waiting the same model now but my version will be the French one

​@@b-creative_dbn I am waiting my kit of the Mirage 3 C .I will built the French bare metal version

@@guyheinis103 it is a good kit with great detail. I do plan on building another which I will also do a bare-metal livery. It is challenging to create a good representation of bare-metal & I wish you success in your endeavor.

@@kobuspool3392 thank you for watching. I’m sure it will be a useful technique.

Thank you @gregoryswart5191

Thank you @joseluiscastanorestrepo , I’m glad that you find this technique helpful & useful.

Thank you for your comment @rogeriofernandes8867. I don’t usually place models up against the sides but I was planning to demonstrate packing the tank & round base in the same container. However I soon realized that the container would not be big enough to do so & did those as a separate segment.

Thank you @jordigarcia2069, your comment is appreciated.

Thanks for the great packing tutorial. Do you do anything to stop them moving up. In case the box rolls onto its side or flips?

@@anthonyricco5522 thank you for your comment. I have considered the possibility of the model moving up vertically. I will try out a few possible solutions & do a follow up video on which would be ideal & easy to execute.

I agree @cococalm. I was fortunate to have served during that time & witnessed their capabilities.

Thank you @kevinkerlin5603 , appreciate your compliment.

@kevinkerlin5603 thank you, appreciate your comment.

Thank you @cellardwellerproductions5125 for the tips. I’m working on a way to add a black colour to the mixture which would also help with seeing where & how much you need to sand.

@simonmowatt Thank you for your comment. Yes acetone can melt plastic but only if you flood the area with it or if you soak the plastic in a container of acetone. In the video I suggest dipping a cotton swab or cloth into the acetone & wipe the area. The acetone will evaporate from the surface quickly which is not enough time to melt or distort the plastic.

NO!

Thank you @WolfgongHoltzmann , appreciate your compliment.

Thank you @anthonyricco5522 appreciate it.

Thank you @AndrevwZA . I’ve only been using it for a few weeks & still trying out different mix ratios. I’d be interested to hear about your water/Retarder mixture.

@angusbellingham I did not apply a clear coat to the decal sheet.

Thank you Lindy for the information. I will do an updated review of LEVOS Decals in the future & emphasis on the changes.

Thank you Phillip, appreciate your compliment.

Andre it’s called the Marbling or Mottling technique. You first apply a black primer or base colour. Then with your first colour you airbrush irregular squiggles within the panel lines. Final step is to airbrush 2 light coats of that colour to unify & blend everything together. It’s the first time I’ve used this technique & although not as good as I’ve seen with other modellers, I’m happy with the final result.

Thank you Kobus.

@Anthony Ricco thank you for your compliment. I’m glad that you enjoyed it.

@BrendonLaureau 🤙🏻😎

Thank you @LindyZwart

Thank you Alex. Appreciate your compliment.

Thank you Anthony. I’m busy planning some follow up videos, so be sure to check your RUclips feed.

Thank you Paul, I appreciate your comment & support.

Thank you Philip, appreciate the compliment & support.