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@@divakism the replacement was mostly made of cut thickness foam. Maybe a sheet of foam could be bought and then the correct shape cut. Some adhesive on the foam would then stick it into the light

If you check out my next video on the channel regarding this I discovered whisky using a scan tool to analyse the fuelling that the car was essentially running out of fuel, showing as lean condition before failure. Fuel pump carrier had failed and been ingested by the pump. A common issue on P1 cars that is now known.

This is what I found out after faffing around so I you tubed it and here I am reading your comment. How do you remove the plastic cover on the lock. Does it just pop off? Don’t want to to break it

Where do you get the pump holder, please?

Mine has been going strong since. I replaced the motor pump as well as the rubber carrier. I’ve had the pump out for a checkup since and found it had accumulated more of the residual gunk but none had gotten through the strainer. Change the fuel filter under the car also, it will be filled with the rubber. Even after 2 changes of that filter there is still some residue of the rubber in the system. Performance has been excellent however since the rebuild of the assembly.

@@motoranticsnick Hi and thanks for the positive outcome, I have received the parts from Totally Alfa, very happy with them. I have one question for you, the bottom cup on mine has both tabs broken, but I see another set in a different position. Are those there if we need a second chance? Changing the position might be a challenge, do you have any tips?

@@artlandevelopmentsinc.5414 mine were still ok but I know what you are talking about. You should be able to rotate it to the next tabs but I think the return line might get in the way? You will have to try as there’s not much other option really.

@@motoranticsnick was able to switch it around. It’s all back together and runs like a champ! Thanks for all your help.

@@artlandevelopmentsinc.5414 brilliant, well done it’s not the easiest job. Enjoy your car :)

I did actually put a new back box section on the car recently. I used alfashop U.K. and asked them which tail section they thought was the most faithful to original with the original shaped tip. They recommended the IMASAF exhaust for the GTV/spider 2.0 and it fit up and looks perfect. Was a little over £200. Not the cheapest back box but looks great. I found the baffles had dissolved in my old back box.

@@motoranticsnick Cheers, I've had my car since 2012, unfortunately my back box as rusted out, I'm trying to weld it up to get it through a test but think I'm gonna have to buy a replacement, it's like welding cheese.

Yes, not a drop of water in my boot. Just make sure it’s not the seal around the boot opening and you install it correctly it will keep water out.

Thanks. I got new light bar with old seal. This is just preventive maintenance. I live in Croatia and UK Totaly alfa is only one who sell it but tax and shipping is brutal for me since they are not in EU anymore. I need to order and install new rear badge and your video about is was great help also 👍

Nope, this Twin Spark is based on Fiat’s Pratola Serra engine line.

It was very odd, pressure was ok at the rail, it was only when rail pressure was increasing (high engine load) therefore must have been overheating the pump as it was struggling with the sludge. Pump is actually still ok I have it but no point putting it back in when a new one was like £20.

@@motoranticsnick Don't you mean refurbished? £20 seems impossibly cheap for a whole fuel pump.

@@Zion-jw3gm I only replaced the pump motor which was £20 my local parts store had one for me same day. Clean the filter and change the rubber carrier (£30) and put the assembly back together with some new hose and it was good as new.

@@motoranticsnick OK much more clear, you've got me thinking, I have a spare fuel pump I bought when I thought I had a problem, turns out there was nothing wrong with it, the previous owner had put a richer map on the ECU. The spare pump for some reason wouldn't fit, (too tall) by a couple of mm. Not sure how come but any I now realise I can use it for parts like you did when and if the time comes. Thanks for the idea.

@@Zion-jw3gm No probs.

Check out the next videos I find the problem it was my pump.

my was perfect above 3k rpm. but i think i've resolved that problem with new plugs. but now i have other problem. it wont event start. we changed camshaft sensor, and few days was okay but then again same. we bought new one, but it didnt helped.

@@zera89sk there would be a few things to check here, unplug sensors and then test to see if issue is resolved. -MAF -CAM position -temp sensor -intake air temp. -check condition of main pump and Ecu relays Check also for splits on intake for vacuum leaks can cause your symptoms.

@@zera89sk did you fix this, is the code light going out on the dash? The sensor for the key can sometimes be a bit problematic

@@roasthunter yes i've fixed it. there were some problem with cables something was loose. now seems to be okay again.

Don’t make a difference during the drive, it engages properly but since it was a replacement motor variator condition was unknown and belts had already been done so no point messing around putting a new variator in at the moment on my car.

Did you find out what was causing the petrol smell ?

Totally Alfa Website

Hi. thank you for the offer I appreciate it. I’ve actually got a spare throttle body already from the previous engine in my car so I wouldn’t have any use for another. Maybe someone on the owners group would like it?

I did not have to drain the fuel tank to replace the pump. Just take the back seats out and lift the pump out of the top of the tank.

@@motoranticsnick thank you :-)

I also thought it could be the e5/e10 personally I only put e5 in it but I’ve only owned it since the start of the year. The part is from totally alfa U.K. www.totallyalfa.com/shop/fuel-air/alfa-romeo-gtv-spider-fuel-pump-holder-early-models/

@@motoranticsnick Thanks. On Spider & GTV 98+ in ePer they do not show pump in parts, on GTV/Spider 95-98 they do. What is confusing is that ePer shows 2.0 TS part 60608418 and for V6 they show 7608298, where totally alfa says the part they offer works for either. Not sure if that is accurate then, based on your case surelly it is compatible with 2.0TS. ePer shows also parts mumbered 11 & 12 as different between 2.0TS and V6 from picture pasted on totally alfa website (aside of rubber #5). I better open it one day and check in my 3.0 V6 12V'99 - have some issues with misfires occasionally, but as far still have a list of things to check and replace preventivelly and some things on order, so will leave it for later this year. Thanks for good input anyway and that you bothered to make video - really appreciate.

@@stuff4car823 I actually found that the part totally alfa sell is obviously not exactly the same as the original, I had to trim a little bit of rubber with a knife but it is 99% the same as the old one. Maybe that is why they can sell it as it will fit both part numbers with a little trimming. It looks like it is originally from a slightly different car.

There are several things that could cause an issue like this. Air intake vacuum leak, Mass airflow sensor, I also found that my car would start and then die immediately without throttle when I first got my car. The problem was the pack of main relays in the engine bay which are responsible for feeding the ECU amongst other things. I replaced all of the engine bay relays and the car started much much better. Try that. Clean them all first and see if there is improvement.

@@motoranticsnick Arent those moved in the phase 2 version on the inside ?

@@tino897 I think all phases of cars have some relays in the engine bay. Regardless clean all of them or swap the same types of relays around in the case that one has a problem the problem will move to something else. Even boot relays. Workshop manual/google could help you locate the main ECU relay location.

@@motoranticsnick Yep saw em. They were right next to the brake fluid tank. 4 main relays that are for AC, ENGI and other stuff.

@@tino897 clean them well and put the ones that are the same type of relay back in a different order so if one is bad causing hard start it will move to a different circuit.