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I’m pretty happy with the chalkbox so far, but it’s a bit on the large side of the scale. But I keep it in my tote when I’m hewing, so it doesn’t matter to me. I like the gear system and the string is of excellent quality. I think I’m going to do the scoring cuts with the logs on the sleepers, wasn’t that comfortable doing them with the Wetterlings axe having the log on trestles … but it was really nice cutting off the main chunks with it. Looking forward to the next time I’ll be able to continue with the hewing.

Yes, you have to keep them sharp, otherwise they just don’t work. Glad you appreciate that!

It sure is, even if one of them is probably older than I am …

Yes, a few. He’s a real inspiration. But when it comes to hewing I’ve looked a lot at a swedish timberman, who unfortunatly doesn’t have much of a social media prescense … he’s called Olof Andersson. In this video he’s preparing lumber for a reconstruction of a mediecal church, 10 years ago: ruclips.net/video/U8DD5NQ1L7c/видео.htmlsi=60w2LmPHsiG_wvYd

I always thought it was interesting. What people can accomplish with just hand tools? I appreciate your video

I’m glad you do. I’ll keep ’em coming!

Oh, thank you. I’m getting better at it every time I have a go.

We basically have summer temperatures here now, with warm nights and everything … and about 2 weeks ago we had snow still on the ground. I actually feel a bit like a goldfish when temperatures change so fast, a bit of a chock to the system, like if you mess up the temperature when changing the water for your goldfish … I got lucky and found my hewing axe on sale. But that’s not the same as cheap anyway, since it’s a Gränsfors Bruk axe … they don’t really do cheap. But the Wetterlings axe I won on an online auction, didn’t cost me that much really. But the handle was shit, so I had to make that. But that wouldn’t be a problem for you either, if my memory of your videos doesn’t play a trick on me … Maybe Glen Urquhart could help you find a good axe for hewing, he seems to know a lot about it too. And he’s also on the right continent to help you, which I’m not. I hope you find an axe and get going with the hewing too!

That’s great to hear. But bear in mind I’m not a professionel in any way at this, there are others who know more than I do. But if you picked up stuff from watching my videos and made it work it’s great! And I’m also very keen to see what I’ll build in the end, right now I don’t really know myself … I’ll just keep making lumber for a while and decide later. Here’s one of my main inspirations, lumber preparation for the reconstruction of a Swedish medieval church, executed by Olof Andersson, a master timberman: ruclips.net/video/U8DD5NQ1L7c/видео.htmlsi=rvZspl8_79WFjlbN

The only video about them I’ve encountered is this one: ruclips.net/video/DQ9KHTo6AQA/видео.htmlsi=ovbbPOAx7YS1INrF At 16:20 he starts talking about finishing axes, and at 16:59 there are pictures. Not sure if goosewing axes fall into the same category or not.

@@myoutdoorways oh ok now I got It. They are the so called "langbeil" or "krainerbeil", typical of South-Eastern Austria and Slovenia, I have one of these. They derive from the real goosewing axes. They are less common than breitbeils but still nothing too rare in ex-austro-ungaric regions. Honestly I think they are not so different than big breitbeils regarfing the level of finishing

Thanks. I’ll try to find something about them now that I know the german names. But if you have anything, I’d appreciate some links.

I had hewing axes laying around for years before I started using them … in the end it didn’t depend so much on the tools, but me, to actually get started. When I finally set my mind to it, it was easy to get the tools in order and start learning to use them. I hope you’ll get going soon too!

Great spring weather here now, like summer already actually. Glad you appreciated it.

Yes, and I believe a lot more smallwood was collected as firewood before saws were common. I’ve started doing that myself. There’s a lot of fuel that goes to waste in all the brushpiles people burn out in the open for no use whatsoever …

Of course it is.

It’s a good method for felling in the spring. I think they say spade in Britain.

There are lots of similar axes that work for splitting, I’ve had a slightly smaller one for many years. But this larger one I got more specifically for felling and bucking, and for that it works great. The hollowed out cheeks are good for preventing sticking.

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I’m not sure if I’ll pick them up or not. Usually I get more than enough bark from the firewood pieces themselves. And we also have quite a lot of fatwood kindling in the shed. So we’re not in any desperate need of such things right now.

We use ringbarking on trees that produce a lot of root shoots when felled, like cherry. Especyally close to the garden, felling cherry without ringbarking first gives you a small forest of shoots straight away.

@@myoutdoorways I see, thats clever👍

It’s good, if you don’t want a lot of cherrys. But usually that’s not desirable close to the house. A few strategically placed is enough.

Yeah, that’s what I was talking about in my latest reply. I don’t really find it strange to assume there can be more moisture in wood in different seasons though. But it’s absolutely interresting to get some scientifically proven facts on the matter. For the person working in the forest with tree felling though, I think you get a pretty good sense of how the trees behave in different seasons and what to do accordingly. Like leaving the limbs on in spring, or felling in the fall when the sap isn’t running anymore. I’ll probably keep doing a lot more wetfelling, since I want the whole warm season to allow the firewood to dry as much as possible before it freezes.

Thanks. I’ve been discussing it a bit with Glen Urquhart, learned a bit more from that.

Thanks, glad you liked it!

Thanks. On my other channel, My Able Ways, there’s a playlist of videos from when I made a knife sheath. The footage of the saddlestitch is even more detailed there, if I remember correctly. So feel free to check that out too!

Thanks. I think it’s called barking spade in the UK, after watching a british video where it was mentioned. A video with Ben Law in it, if you’ve heard about him. He became popular many years ago when he appeared in the british TV show Grand Designs, building a really nice round timber frame house with locally sourced materials. I have a few of his books.

Glad you like my stuff! This type of axe is probably one of the most common ones, and Hults Bruk exported a lot to America in the early days. But those bigger ones is not very common in Sweden, probably because we don’t have that kind of giant trees as you do over there. Maybe they say barking spade in the UK and it’s barkspud in America. I watched a video about roundwood timber construction with Ben Law last night, and he called it barking spade. So maybe that’s the answer.

@@myoutdoorways I'm not knowledgeable enough to say what's right or wrong. I will consider both terms acceptable. I learn something new almost every time I watch one of your videos.

That’s great to hear. I usually learn a lot from the comments on the videos too. Great win-win situation.

Hello there. Glad you like my content! I’ve noticed similarities between our regions too. Been watching Shawn James’ channel My Selfreliance for some years, for one thing. And it often looks a lot like home where he’s at too.

Thanks!

Glad to hear it. This time I learned a thing or two also. There’s a long comment from another viewer, he made some good points that I will adress in future videos.

Glad you liked it! Stay tuned for the followup video in 5-6 weeks too … Not sure how it would work for spruce, but for birch and other deciduous trees it’s great. And also relevant if felling after winter, since especially birch is so wet from all that sap.

Some interresting pointers there … if the amount of sap is the same in wintertime it doesn’t really make sense to fell the birches then, if the sap is frozen inside of the trunk … just harder to cut it down when it’s frozen. Except for the advantages in logistics, but to me that’s not really relevant. The warty birch I’m felling for firewood is very prone to rot around here, and a lot of them die from it and fall down. That said, not all of them do. Some grow very large and old without any signs of problems. I try to take down the ones that look unhealthy, or that stand in areas where others have died from rot before them. Maybe it’s in areas with an abundance of water they attract such amount of rot that they die easily. I usually put some of the branches on the ground before I stack my firewood out in the forest, down by the house I put it on pallets. I did stack it in boxsection before, but I found it a bit unstable and it also needs more space stacked that way. My plan now is to stack it in the woods for initial drying, then bring it down to the house and stack it on pallets if it isn’t dry enough to go into the shed by then. Thanks for your feedback, it’s a good thing when experienced people share their knowledge.

@@myoutdoorways Think of sap as blood metaphorically...what is different (just like in vertebrates)...is "blood chemistry" or in this case "sap chemistry" between rest periods (fall-winter) and active periods (spring-summer)...For firewood, you can cut a tree anytime you please, just understand the traditional modalities for "how" it is done...JUST...like you did in this video which is more than fine...!!!...Drop the tree, de-bark, leave limbs till leaves bud out and fall off (some species will continue to grow...!!!...like willows and some aspen, etc)...buck up into sections, and stack to dry... Wet wood cuts more easily than dry. "Frozen" wood may cut easier than just being wet if the temperature is not too cold. The ice crystals act as a lubricant on the bit of the cutting tool, and you don't overheat in the process. When it is really cold... the sugars are frozen too. Sucrids (aka sugars) have a lower freezing point than water alone... You may have an endemic "birch blight" in that area. Though some species, in some regions, all have it and have learned to live with it. Some of the bracket fungi from this species rely on the blight (it seems?) and are used in many traditional medicines. You thinning out and managing your forest for healthy trees only is good stewardship as long as there are enough "untouched" natural forests around to function without human encroachment... The branches on the ground are great!!! Getting them at least 100mm up is good with 200mm being ideal...There are several methods for doing this... Looking forward to your next video...

I think I’ll avoid winter felling mainly because the frozen wood means harder work, and takes a greater toll on the axe. That may depend on the type of axe, of course, Glen Urquhart has talked a lot of that in our frequent chatting … I’ve seen this tendency to rot down on birches in a lot of places around, but also vast areas full of birch with no such problems. So it’s not as much everywhere, and where I see it clearly I try to remove those trees. I’ll probably take your recommendations with me for next time I stack wood in the forest, perhaps I’ll try to achieve even greater ground clearance. Can’t hurt the process, for sure.

@@myoutdoorways This. Today I processed a birch and had to take a few branches off when I fell it... sap was pretty much pouring from the stubs until my felling cut made it through the heart. All the stumps of previously processed birch were also soaking wet... neither of these conditions were present two weeks ago in my area. Regardless of jargon and technicality's, thats "more sap" enough for this ignorant woodsman. I would argue, that the presence of copious amounts of sap suddenly pouring out of the stumps of trees that I processed over a month ago, does in fact indicate that the root system is indeed sending more sap up the tree now than it was during the winter. In regards to the rot I would be curious to compare notes with you. In the areas where I cut there is often very little visual indication of the rot, I typically look up at how many good-sized branches seem to be inexplicably broken off and make my best guess off of that. After a decade of harvesting mostly birch, my working theory is that if thick spruce growth is present there tends to be more rot, I think that as the young coniferous growth starts to take over their root system out-competes the birch. I'd be interested in seeing if your ongoing observations agree with that.

​@@bushleague3472 Birch, especially mature birchbis not very shade tolerant. And Birch is often the first tree species to get going after a forest fire or other ground disturbance. Spruce on the other hand is very shade tolerant. Once the spruce get tall enough they kill off the deciduous species. The roots stop sending sap up the treebefore the tree stops growing each summer so the capillaries aren't full of water when the tree freezes solid. Then in spring the sap starts flowing upward. Anyone that taps maple trees to make syrup knows that. Also, many deciduous trees are lighter weight in the winter than the same piece would be in the summer . Also , anyone that has fell Birch trees in the spring and early summer has seen how much sap flows up from the roots. Where as when fell in the fall , just before freeze up. There is very little sap flow.

Thanks! We usually try to fell in wintertime in Sweden, when the trees are dryer, but when you’re late this is a good method.

Kul att du gillade den!

Great! I hope you can take something useful away from it then. The saddlestitch method, perhaps.

Sometimes it’s hard to find the time to do it all at the same time. As in this video, that I shot before work. And there’s also the fact that I like to put some branches down on the ground before stacking the wood, to allow the bottom pieces to dry properly, so not every part of the tree gets processed because of that … but I get your point. When I took care of the goat willow along the road passing our house I brought a billhook to take care of everything down to 1” or maybe a bit smaller, but I didn’t shoot that. There are only the stills I posted on the Axe Cordwood Challenge group. But maybe I’ll follow your advice in an upcoming video, I think it can be combined with another idea I have … we’ll see. I’m happy for your positive response to my videos!

@@myoutdoorways just to clarify, i'm not suggesting everyone needs to use 100% of the tree everytime. I just thought it would be a cool video to showcase just how much of the tree you can utilise.

I’m totally with you on that. I think it’s a good idea.

Thanks, I appreciate it!

You’re welcome. Glad you liked it!

😆 … but seriously, it’s birch.

@@myoutdoorways lol 👍 made short work of it

What kind of tree is dog wood, by the way? We don’t have that in Sweden.

@@myoutdoorways I’m not really sure. I think we have it in the north east in the states.

I think I saw an episode on Farmhand’s Companion(lovely channel) where Pa Mac(yes, that’s what he calls himself) talked about dogwood. Very hard wood, if my memory doesn’t decieve me.

I have one. I use it for dry trees mostly. And bigger trees, if I ever fell that. Try using axes for yourself and see what you think. If nothing else, it will develop your strength and coordination. And provide you with an alternativ if you run out of gas or parts.

@@myoutdoorways when I want a good workout I use a spade , my preferred one is a fire shovel . Strait shaft , shortish , the handle should come to your shoulder standing tip on the ground . I do all sorts of tasks in the woods , cleaning the mess left from logging in my wood lot , clearing culverts , restoring waterways . The things you can do with a shovel are endless , self defence , lol . Not only does it strengthen you upper body but your legs too . 👍🇨🇦

Sounds great. Shoot some videos of it. I’d love to see it.

Glad you liked it. This is actually my main area of expertise … if I can pass on some of my experience to others I feel I’ve done something useful. The footage of the saddlestitch is probably even a bit better in the videos of the knife sheath on my other channel: youtube.com/@myableways?si=7U3Ikv_SsBAQ7HAT

Tackarrrr

Wild but safe! Hard editing because of the 60 seconds, too.

Use a chainsaw then, if you want to. Gosh, I wish I thought about that …

Glad you like my stuff! I have a lot of templates for different things too, mostly historical shoes and purses. But I didn’t save this template since I don’t plan to produce more sheaths exactly like this one. And it’s really easy to make a new one, should I need to. I don’t think the corrugated cardboard gives you a template that is exact enough for most leather items. As for the discrepancy when folding leather, thah changes a bit depending on what thickness the leather you work with is. So I think it’s better to make a template with some small margin, and expect to trim the piece to fit when you make it. But if you like the corrugated cardbord, just stick to it. Everyone needs to find the methods that suit them the best.

Yes, that’s right. As it should be!

I blame it on the beer.

I’d like to see a pictures for better understanding of that.

Yes, but ’mericans speak in different terms when it’s about leather … they use ounces for that. So I think the leather I use for the sheath is 7 ounces, or 2,8mm.

I memorized that ⅛" = 3.2 (3.18) mm, but fractional inches just make things more complicated. Metric is just easier and more logical if you can work/think solely in terms of it, without too many conversions. Believe me, I have worked with inches for 60 years, and can see the advantages of metric.

I use both systems depending on the situation, but metric is usually easier.

Thanks, I know you like the leather videos. It’s nice to make them occasionaly.

@@myoutdoorways yeah I love them. They are very relaxed, almost meditative to whatch.

I’ll make some more then.

Thanks, it’s really fun too!

It’s good to have you. Welcome!

Do it! And try that saddlestitch method I demonstrate if you do. It’s not that hard to learn, and when you get into it you just do it naturally. It makes a big difference to the seam, both to its quality and appearence.

Glad you liked it. I hope you get going on some sheaths yourself. Do try the saddlestitch method I demonstrate in the video if you do, it’s not that hard to learn and it makes a big difference to the stitching.

If you want to use leather strings to make a nice detail on your project, you may want to try to do it like the only other "leather-guy" I'm following, and he makes this way better than me; ruclips.net/video/KPY-T6yOSLo/видео.htmlsi=1o92XXa76r1w4QZE I use the method Ola is using and have only meddled twice with leather strings, but I asked Ola if he was ok with me sharing this, in case you want to give it a go.

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@@johanfahlberg3778 Thank you !

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