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Thank you for the suggestion. I will look into it.

I have to be honest. I don't really use shields, so I do not have much advice to offer. But I do own a Rotella and buckler, so I may try to do a video at some point with some thoughts.

I would have to disagree. Doubles in longsword, as a general rule, are often very common, regardless of the hand of the fighter. Typically the less likely for doubles to occur is between the most skilled fencers, fighting each other. But in a world where even when fighting the unskilled, they will adopt a more suicide mentality to fighting which does still create a lot of doubles. While it might be true that in a LvR fight, the right-handed fighter becomes the "unskilled" because of a lack of experience, that should allow the left-handed fighter to successfully evade being doubled. Considering how many doubles I see in RvR fights, I do not agree with your premise.

However, it would be an interesting thing for something like a HEMA scorecard to track to see if your premise is universally true. If so it might be something worth looking into.

Thank you for your question. I ususally only do dagger in Armor, which is different than it is in Blossechten. I don't fight Messer, and only occasionally dussack, so I don't feel I have much to offer.

I have found, as a left handed person applying the sword techniques from Godinho (which is not hand specific) are effective in the few messer fights I have done. It should be said this is somewhat anachonistic, as the treatise is from 1599, but what works...works

ruclips.net/video/O6VkO7kYbPk/видео.htmlsi=J7u-bQh3Rc_sdI-Z

Thank you for adding your thoughts. In the case of the lighter Bec, I think yes you have the option of longer reach. (it is something I want to get into my collection for research) But on the flip side, becs are smaller heads way smaller than simulators used, which gives us a misconception on their use, and the need for accuracy as the smaller the head, the more difficult the targeting becomes.

​@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 Targeting with the smaller head does add to the challenge. With langets fore and aft... or side langets that extend to the edge of the shaft, I feel that that is a legitimate hitting surface. When I fight, I usually can't tell the difference between getting hit with the head or getting hit with the haft. The mass of the head above drives the langets very hard. Hitting somebody with the langets, may not do as much damage as hitting them with the head, but it will set up a follow-up shot with the head.

@@tsafa Hitting with the langets wil provide minimal force, and also created an excellent opportunity to crack the shaft. Historcal manuals teach a multitude of techniques when the head of the axe is past the target. Unfortunately many of these involve wrenching the head or limbs or usining leverage to knock down your opponent, which are either unsafe (head wrenches) of not allowed as successful strikes in SCA combat (knock downs).

Thank you

You're welcome

Yes.

I am glad you found it useful. I got an early model, so hopefully the new ones are even better.

In my experience, I have the blunt and sharp versions of the montante in this video. The sharp blade is different because of the distal taper and the reduction in the material at the edges. This also makes the sharp a little more flexible than the trainer.

Would I need to use a whetstone to sharpen it more for better results

I have not had the chance to do cutting tests with it yet.

Tim is still getting trianed on throws. This was a first dagger fight for him so we kept it on "beginner mode". If you break your toys in the beginning, you can't play with them later.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 100% gotta crawl - walk - run. Good job to Tim for a first dagger fight then.

I am glad you liked the video. Teaching the techniques as LvL helps Left handed students understand why the techniques work. They may not always be applicable but understanding why they work is valuable. Some techniques actually work better, and some don't work at all. But understanding why they "should work" can allow left handers to create modified techniques that will be effective against a right hander. Hopefully, some of the other videos on this channel will help you understand how we use the asymmetry from a left-handed perspective.

It is important to determine what you are using armor for before purchasing. I have heard, (but have no experience with) Buhurt clubs do not recommend stainless steel and prefer Spring Steel, Hardened steel, or even Mild steel (in suitable gauge) . If you are considering Buhurt I would strongly recommend you talk with you local club before purchasing ANY armor. Actually this is good advice for playing in any armored combat sport. Mild and Stainless steel are used in SCA style combat, and have been for years. Now if you are doing Harnischfechten like Dequitem, who often uses steel weapons at full speed, yes hardened steel and or Titanium is best. He has said much of his kit is titanium. But for what I am doing, and the weapons and techniques we are using, A properly padded helm in 14 or 12 gauge should be sufficient in mild or stainless steel. I might suggest that If you are doing steel Pollaxe erring on the side of heavier might be wise ;-).

It is also worth noting that hardened steel is significantly more expensive.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 Thanks for the reply :) Personally I would like to get into Harnischfechten. I am not in any club or group, but I have a few friends that would like to join in. All just for fun. My main interest is into getting a historical suite of armour that is also functional. I am also aware that a hardened armour piece is way more expensive. Its not that easy finding a middle road option that is affordable and also functional enough.

@@WoofyMcDoodle Thank you, That is exatly what my Harness videos on mychannel is for. I am trying to showcase different armor options particularly for those wanting to start out who think you have to spend a fortune to participate.

@@WoofyMcDoodle I would strongly suggest for someone in your situation to watch this three part series to help guide you. ruclips.net/video/iJJhHYiEEzA/видео.htmlsi=Ggm-k4SQl7Hb_-58

www.medievalcollectibles.com/product/blunt-short-spearhead/?_gl=1*grvsv*_up*MQ..&gclid=CjwKCAjwg8qzBhAoEiwAWagLrCrgWAGQt7CZl1zP7cIJQmWtZ9cy7qbnny3vT8NdVTbVeZEGyd9ffBoCpAMQAvD_BwE

You are welcome. If you are ever in the area, I hope you will visit us, as our club is in Southeastern Virginia.

You're welcome. In my opinion yes, it is best suited for sparring with the Akado weapons. I don't use it much nowadays, but after your post I did give it a go over, to take an updated evaluation. I have found a slight looseness in the tsuba, not making it unusable, but I can notice it when swinging it. I would take it for what its worth but I have noticed another reviewer of the akado beta version does not use the Akado weapons in his other videos. In those "Katana vs" other HEMA weapons he does not use the Akado weapons in those videos, but one made by a HEMA equipment supplier.

Its odd. The edge itself is pretty wide, so you don't get heavy burrs on the blunted blade. But you can get some burning on the side of the blade because of the double fuller. But nothing that standard maintenance can't cure.

I'm glad you liked the video. I'd be curious as to what changes he made to your helm.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 I planned on making an overview video of my helmet this week on my other channel. I can tag you in it when it's out if you'd like

@@dominickscheuringer9553 Please do.

Hey I put up the video today. It looks like they've made design changes with their helmets going forward. I mention one of the issues you faced with your perforated plate

@@FiresideHEMA Great video, and thank you for the shout out.

Thank you for your comment. I wholeheartedly agree. For the record this is not a historical technique. But as my focus is more for beginners, who may not have as much experience or means to do that, this is a way of getting started, which is my intention with these videos. I do have a video about my armor and you can see in it that my personal arming belt is more in the fashion you have described.

I am not completely satisfied with my current setup. So I would consider it as "unfinished." That said I will not put up a video until I am. In the meantime this video shows the setup I currently have. (while I am wearing padded coif underneath)

ruclips.net/video/miU05vzXNSw/видео.htmlsi=peM8jsMizjNbK57z

ruclips.net/video/UFaUuAgU15w/видео.htmlsi=-f1Hdb8Iu8v1S3xR

As for the padding I did a modern helmet pad kit velcroed in. Then I added helmet liner. This makes the liner washable, and the pad kit replaceable. The fit is good without being "tight". I have taken some experimental head shots, spear is fine, but I have to admit the PH pollaaxe does hit like a freight train and you will feel it. But anyone who has taken a full force PH pollaxe hit will probably tell you the same thing regardless of helm.

ruclips.net/video/UFaUuAgU15w/видео.htmlsi=-f1Hdb8Iu8v1S3xR

Thats still not bad price for a custom make. Plus it depends on what you want the Sallet for. Re enactment I would say a Sallet like that sounds perfect. Just make sure when you get the Bevor, get it from the same maker, or make sure it will fir your Sallet correctly if you end up getting from a different maker.

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 I asked for a longer chin strap so that the helmet could be fastened under the bevor, , but I have yet to get more money for the bevor.

It will be a while as I am still building up my late 15th century kit.

Thank you for your opinion and sharing your experience.

Two thoughts on this. 1) Have you tried reaching out to them and requesting a longer haft? In my experience they have been very easy to contact and make requests since each is handmade at the time of order. 2) After my clubs experience of having one break, We reached out and they no longer use Locktite on the screws holding them together specifically so we can replace the hafts when the break. So yes it is easy enough now to replace the hafts. Consquesntly when my regular sparring partner replaced the haft of his DL pollaaxe (after it broke) he made it about five inches longer. (Not sure if that is because he is taller than I am, to match his frame, of it its to have a reach advantage over me to prevent me from regularly beating him ;-) )

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 I have not reached out, I could try that. Just accepted the size from the site before. I can tell they have made improvements. My angled poleaxe had a fairly rough shaft, and the partisan I just got has a much more refined shaft with better sanding and nice rounded edges, but is still great for edge alignment. I think I will probably wait until the shaft needs to be replaced to try making it longer since I already have a Purpleheart partisan head on a longer shaft, but I think this one with a longer shaft would be far superior for pretty much every purpose

The maker is also the president of the Warriors of Ash HEMA school. WoA doesn’t allow polearms over 80 inches in our tournaments because really above that length it gets harder to control your strikes and too easy to build up momentum that makes them dangerous even with the sparring safe heads. A polearm is a giant lever. The longer it is, the harder it hits and the more force it transfers into your opponent’s head. And of course only the polearm heads are made of a sparring safe material, the haft is still just a big wooden staff. So, control is important to using them safely too. Loch might be willing to make you a longer one if you really want one, but it might be less safe to spar with and wouldn’t be allowed in any of the tournaments I’m aware of that allow polearms and mixed weapons. Beyond the safety concerns, 80 inches is also pushing the length that you can easily fit in most vehicles so unless you have a van or full-size SUV then you might make transportation a bit difficult for yourself if you go much longer than 80 inches too.

@@castanea8 Understandable. I really wanted longer for solo and partner drilling. I could use steel heads for that but even for drills I'd prefer a safer head with that size since as you said, a long lever ends up hitting really hard. Drills have a potential to go awry even if you're careful. I can fit them pretty easily in the minivan as is, and I think another foot would make them still able to travel but better overall outside tourneys

@@baeleg Well, if you’re not worried about using it in a tournament or not being able to transport it at that length then it sounds like it would fit your needs to make it a bit longer. I’d reach out to Loch and ask, he’d probably be willing to make it a bit longer I’d assume.

Thank you for the comment. I thingk that rather than answer all of this here, you bring up good points that would make a good video. So look for that video coming up in the next few weeks. But on the quick, yes they are very safe and are reasonably solid but do not generally strike with much force, which makes them perfect for Bolss, as opposed to some of the PH trainers which IMHO hit too hard to be considered safe for bloss sparring.

We have found that the points do tend to bend when hard shots to the body are given. That said its all of two seconds to straighten them out. Frankly I'd rather the point take the force than my sparring partner, so its a total win. But it you are looking for the kind of "what is hurt is learnt" mentality to training these aren't for you.

I am glad you found it helpful. Thanks for the compliment! ☺

I don't. But perhaps this will make for an interesting video, so thank you for your input. To answer your question for now, this video covers my sparring gear for tournament, and I do use a "right handed" jacket. ruclips.net/video/44XieTup5d8/видео.htmlsi=I7jNVcqsJwifoB1p

@@lefthandedhemawithlordrami8220 Thanks for the answer. I just got a right handed Spes AP and im a bit worried of it not being as safe.

@@Grosaja It is worth addressing in a video. I will get something out soon.

I am glad you found this useful. I am sure others will too.

Considering a tournament feder from Purpleheart is only $60 more, there really is no excuse to get this over a proper feder if you want to do steel sparring. www.woodenswords.com/product_p/vb.ls.std.s.htm

Thank you. I absolutely will be making that video. I am trying to release videos in order for the gear people should have, because there is a temptation to put the cart before the horse in terms of getting armor together which ends up making the process more expensive as you learn what you need after you buy that you think you need.