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A cool project :D . I’m making a robotic lawn mower but I also want it to be a cool rc tank and have a lot of features outside lawn mowing :)

@@Rovi-HRS thats gonna be cool

Thanks! Those are some great suggestions, the teflon should work but it's not scratch resistant and would damage quickly. The hydrophobic waxes sound great, I found some sprayer version, I will try to apply it next winter. I found that silane is toxic, so I won't use that one... But thanks a lot for the hydrophobic waxes idea 👍😉

Thanks for support ! 😍😁

That’s wonderful to hear. Can you send me email to hikl.robotic.solutions@gmail.com or should I send you email to some address? we can discuss it more through email. Thank you

Then I hope it doesn’t break 😂

Yeah, I will make that change in the new design. meanwhile i think I solved the problem

I accidentally placed the pins on the pcb in reverse, so it has to be this way... a mistake that I will get rid of in the new design... I couldn't really find a esp32-s3 chip with external antenna connector but I will keep looking.

From laptop would be perfect because they’re tiny pcb antennas you could just hide inside your robot, but one from WiFi router might give you stronger signal/ longer distance

Pretty good idea, I will try to find a chip with external antenna connection but still, the wifi is working everywhere except when the chip is in the PCB...

My guess is that there is something else going on in the PCB and maybe causing some interference? Or maybe some pin is malfunctioning and making the problem? I will try to desolder pin by pin and figure out if there is some problem.

But checking the datasheet and the voltage at each pin, everything should be in order. So maybe something with software? I'll try some other version of esp32 boards in Arduino IDE...

@@Rovi-HRS i think it’s the way it’s mounted, if you look at any board with esp or any other WiFi module in form of esp it’s always mounted on the edge or there’s a hole in pcb so there’s nothing behind the antenna

Thanks, but I think this is one of those problems where I need to try out every single component alone to find out what happened… But I still have no idea what caused the voltage regulator to malfunction, I don’t think there was overloading, the input voltage was good as well, the only guess is that there aren’t any big capacitors near the voltage regulator, so maybe some voltage spike? What do you it may be?

@@Rovi-HRSi’d say maybe not enough input power, but you’re using li-po or li-ion cells and it shouldn’t be a problem with them

@@Rovi-HRS Output capacitor after switching regulator is always needed for stable Output but it shouldn’t be too big i’d say(it’s draw too much current on startup), check datasheet for regulator and if you have capacitors and compare values, some chinese boards probably use worse/lower value capacitors

@@Rovi-HRSalso if you could be more precise with your problem, what exactly happens?

Good point, I will include it in the next design. For now I think I will remove the 3.3v regulator and use the one on the esp32, it should be enough for everything

Thanks 😁👍

Hello, you can send me email to this address hikl.robotic.solutions@gmail.com

It’s a robot designed to be an rc car and also lawn mower

@@Rovi-HRS крутая штука

That’s on of the nicest things I heard on RUclips, thanks 😊❤

Yeah, that’s the thing, I forgot to connect it to the controller. So it was only connected to the VDD by that 10K ohm resistor resulting in always being high

Thanks so much <3

I only have the built in microphone and headset, but the quality is not so good. I’ll try to find some other way ;)

Actually I’m using rtk, with gnss, so it’s gnss rtk

But I am using point perfect instead of base and rover setup

Right now I’m working on something with AWS, but as soon as I will have time to check it, I will try it out. Thanks for the help! 😁

Thank you 👍

Yeah, I agree. But both are pretty much the same in this scenario. :D

:D most of it are traces (wires on the pcb) and there are 4 layers of them and the components are placed as closely together as possible to save space. In the result it looks like a total mesh

Actually it’s not ready to mow the whole lawn right now, but the part square part that you can see takes about 15 minutes to mow… and that makes it about the speed about 240 square meters an hour

i was just joking with you. excellent job tinking…

Yeah yeah, I know 🤣😂

Thank you 😊

I'm sorry but I have no idea what coding.tq is :D, if you could explain or provide more information about it? Thanks ;)

Nice, how is it going?

@@Rovi-HRS missing steps need some feedback system for missed steps , your video is inspiring

Sounds interesting, i wish you luck ;)

Yeah, I understand but normally it's fine. Basically that wire just goes to esp32 and some other small sensors.

Good point, haven't thought about that. Thanks

they are terrible. some are so bad you can pick them up with a magnet because they're not even copper, they're just steel

Well, I use some thicker silicon wires 14AWG for the main power from the battery and motors but I thought that for esp32 and a couple of sensors that wire would be sufficient enough

Well, it's actually really hard to do so as there are so many cables and not a lot of space. In the future I plan to put it all on a pcb.

My computer is a box of wires and it doesn’t seem to catch on fire

@@Rovi-HRS I've been recently working on my first pcb that I actually want to order. It's pretty nice knowing how nice it will be in the end :) I definitely recommend trying that out as soon as you can

@SmileyFace01 I've been thinking about that but as it would be my first pcb, I'm a little worried that things might not go as planned.... So maybe if I just put the wires, esp32, resistors, capacitors, cable connectors etc. on the pcb and leave out some complex stuff such as DC-DC step down or CC CV charger. Do you think that this is a good idea? Btw, which service are you planning to use?

​@@Rovi-HRS I feel like taking on a bigger challenge is a better way to learn more. But you could accidentally take on too much. I am not sure if it's better to use pcbway/jlcpcb or maybe directly contact some chinese factory xd I do have some local options as well. But I am currently thinking of using pcbway and maybe combine the order with some metal 3d printed parts I wanted.

Well, those are some high power LEDs. Every one of them has 3w.... Here is the temperature test - ruclips.net/user/shorts1_eqLG9ydfE?si=lrCtGFoKQD-520jV

great project btw

Yeah yeah I was thinking about that it'll would be great. And I use a switching power supply for them I can also control the brightest thorough PWM from the controller

Thanks a lot 👍

Thanks for replying

Sure looks like it, but no. What you're seeing are cables and jumper wires etc.

Yeah, it's backwards 😂🤣... But still, it wasn't working when I turned on Rovi.

I think that's true. Because it happened multiple times especially when the track got stuck. And it's not doing it with the slower gearbox, as it has more torque.

Thank you so much.

That's not a bad idea. However, I'm worried that if I made tracks tighter, they would perform worse on some terrains (not in snow). And crossing some obstacles, the tracks wouldn't be able to absorb it, smoothening the movement. But I'll try to test it.

Thanks 👍

Thanks. But unfortunately I can already tell you that it's not working. So I'll need to redesign it somehow.

Yeah, pretty much so... It got in the spacings on the drive wheel and that created tension in the track and the connector wasn't able to hold it so it snapped... Thanks for guessing :)