Thanks for the video I have yet to do any work on mine yet my car goes limp mode and jerks when I drive usually around 30-60 mpg just before limp mode goes is usually when I see the temp rise tremendously and kicks in and sitting still it jumps if I don’t have my foot on the brake so I parked it and had to get a new vehicle but I really wanna try this and hope it works. My coolant backs up and and boils in the coolant housing and the ac was just fixed but no one wants to work on it not even mechanic from GM OR OTHER CAR DEALERSHIPS DO NOT WANT TO TOUCH MY CAR. and it also throws a code on the dash about my stabilitrak which is the least of my worries if I can get it running and not over heat I will be happy but if you have any other suggestions i am all ears 👂 all help is appreciated
I had stabilitrak error on my SRX, ended up being the speed sensor in a wheel bearing! now just to figure out the engine overheating, passenger a/c blows hot, neither turn signal works, the headlight's out, and the transmission is rough in reverse ..... besides that it rides JUST FINE :)
You are a life saver! I have watched 2 other videos about this pain in my ass thermostat I could not get the metal pipe to move didn't see the bolt. The one in the back I thought was for wiring. It was a 13 bolt. Everything has been 13 or 10 it seems. But the stabilizer bar was a 17
Thanks for the video all the others don’t mention the o ring that you can’t find let’s you think there isn’t none.. I used silicone gasket sealer for the smaller sized metal pipe that goes into it cause I can’t find a o ring myself but it’s still trickling… that’s why they say you have to change the whole housing cause it comes with o rings right?
I bought one of these with the transmission out. I matched the o rings to the heater hoses and cooling line. Now that I have the transmission in I pray that those lines do not leak. I'm waiting on a carrier bearing and intake gaskets then I'll find out. Its going to be a pain to change those O rings if they leak. Thanks for the video. I also left the bell housing bolt out that is behind this assembly just in case the transmission has to come out I wont have to mess with these lines. This thing has plenty of bell housing bolts already.
The thermostat will come out of the housing. You push down where the tabs are in the housing and turn. I’m a mechanic and have done a countless number of these.
Yeah I explain how to do that at 5:50 . But you should remove the housing first… it’s not a bad idea to thoroughly check the housing to make sure it isn’t cracked. It would suck to do all that work for nothing.
Good information, I recently learned that vehicles that are from the same year/make/model can actually have more than one type of engine/transmission on the same year/make/model so the only way I was able to find the part was through the VID, so this scenario is good example of what happens. Manufacurer claims the reason for this is the vehicle assembly plant as certain parts are used for certain vehicles.. so depending on where the car was assembled will determine what the car is equipped with.. (which doesnt make any sense)
How do you get the thermostat out of the housing. That spring is strong as hell and I can't seem to get it out. I tried using 2 pliers to hold the spring down to take the old 1 out the housing, but it just slips off.
@@bryanlowry4153 I figured it out. When I bought the thermostat it came with a thick toilet paper roll thing, you use that to push down and twist. Didn't think it would hold up, but it did.
Thanks for the video. Much appreciated. I almost ignored the video because it wasn't step by step. I've gotten lazy since RUclips. I'm sure that's why people gave negative remarks. I've gotten used to step by step videos. Although your video wasn't step by step, the information contained there -in is absolutely invaluable. Thanks for taking the time. You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people all of the time.
Thanks for the video. I found it helpful. Now I know which mechanic knows what he is talking about and why it is so expensive to replace the thermostat.
@@FenrirYT13same lol mines said $600 and everyone after said the same, I’m just having an issue putting it back inside now, I have to remove the blk pipe as well. Like he said I’ll remove the one in the back as I’ve finally found the bolt
Thanks for the heads-up. The Book says 1.6 hours for this job. ( I am sure I will need 3.6 hours HA ) I think you are right about having to loosen that steel coolant pipe. Unfortunately in the future when people have to replace the whole pipe it is quoted at 6 hours! Remove Catalytic Conv , alternator and splash shields. Ouch.
I broke my Thermostat housing by trying to harm it back in to place. Because that metal pipe would not move. I had to remov so much stuff to have clearance for my tools. The O-rings were dry rotted and pour coolant all over the road. That motor mount has a rubber Pieces
Glad (not really) I wasn't the only one dealing with this misery. 20 mins to get to the thermostat, an hour to get it out. I wish I watched the entire video and heard about loosening the bolt for the pipe. After an hour, I got frustrated and used my 3ft pry bar... Well, sure as shit, I cracked the tab on the stupid housing that holds the actually thermostat and now I have to buy the whole thing. I'd like to know what fkin moronic engineer designed this POS... Thanks for the video though. I debated making one too after dealing with this.
I have a 07 srx and I'm removing the transmission and that's a bitch you need to remove the exhaust, driveline, intake manfold. the starter needs to come out in order to get the torque converter bolts out and the termostat housing needs to come off so you can get to the top transmission bolts and it's no room what soever .so much bullshit just to take out a transmission I was stuck on that termostat thanks for the video
That's good info bro. I appreciate that. Weird how it shows up for some models and not others. The CTS is so popular/common, lol. You would think all the part numbers would be easy to reference.
For future reference if you look up water outlet for a 2005 Cadillac SRX you can get that water outlet easily I can get a Murray number for you here in a second at O'Reillys
I'm working on the same engine in an srx and I'm at the point of the water pipe removal and I couldn't understand if just the bolts in the front under the water pump and at the inlet pipe connection were the only ones required or is it nessasary to gain access to it at the exhaust manifold as well?
If I'm understanding you correctly, the bolt near the front attaches the pipe bracket to the side of the motor, there is another bolt which does the same thing in the back upper left hand corner of the motor... that one is the most critical as it is this bolt which prevents vertical movement of the pipe and will not allow you to lift the upper part of the housing away from the bottom part. Additionally, removing the 3rd bolt at the pipe connection which secures to the upper housing does not disengage the pipe due to the second bolt in the back corner of the motor which will not allow you to lift the upper housing nor retract the pipe horizontally away from the housing. So NO, there are not 2 but 3 bolts. you have to get a small flash light. I actually have lighted gloves that I used in this area because there is so much mess back there you cant see the bolt. It tucked behind some wiring if I recall. If you have large hands you probably will have a hard time finding it. 4:26 in the vid is where I point out the location which i understand is difficult to tell where it is in relation to the housing. standing in front of the car its in the upper left corner on the back of the motor about 10 inches away from the housing. try tracing the pipe from the side of the motor to the back and you should be able to find it.
Where did you find the o rings?
Thanks for the video I have yet to do any work on mine yet my car goes limp mode and jerks when I drive usually around 30-60 mpg just before limp mode goes is usually when I see the temp rise tremendously and kicks in and sitting still it jumps if I don’t have my foot on the brake so I parked it and had to get a new vehicle but I really wanna try this and hope it works. My coolant backs up and and boils in the coolant housing and the ac was just fixed but no one wants to work on it not even mechanic from GM OR OTHER CAR DEALERSHIPS DO NOT WANT TO TOUCH MY CAR. and it also throws a code on the dash about my stabilitrak which is the least of my worries if I can get it running and not over heat I will be happy but if you have any other suggestions i am all ears 👂 all help is appreciated
I had stabilitrak error on my SRX, ended up being the speed sensor in a wheel bearing! now just to figure out the engine overheating, passenger a/c blows hot, neither turn signal works, the headlight's out, and the transmission is rough in reverse ..... besides that it rides JUST FINE :)
You are a life saver! I have watched 2 other videos about this pain in my ass thermostat I could not get the metal pipe to move didn't see the bolt. The one in the back I thought was for wiring. It was a 13 bolt. Everything has been 13 or 10 it seems. But the stabilizer bar was a 17
Thanks for the video all the others don’t mention the o ring that you can’t find let’s you think there isn’t none.. I used silicone gasket sealer for the smaller sized metal pipe that goes into it cause I can’t find a o ring myself but it’s still trickling… that’s why they say you have to change the whole housing cause it comes with o rings right?
I bought one of these with the transmission out. I matched the o rings to the heater hoses and cooling line. Now that I have the transmission in I pray that those lines do not leak. I'm waiting on a carrier bearing and intake gaskets then I'll find out. Its going to be a pain to change those O rings if they leak. Thanks for the video. I also left the bell housing bolt out that is behind this assembly just in case the transmission has to come out I wont have to mess with these lines. This thing has plenty of bell housing bolts already.
Thank you for your help and Consideration. Keep making vids bro
The thermostat will come out of the housing. You push down where the tabs are in the housing and turn. I’m a mechanic and have done a countless number of these.
I am having trouble with this. Do I need a tool?
Yeah I explain how to do that at 5:50 . But you should remove the housing first… it’s not a bad idea to thoroughly check the housing to make sure it isn’t cracked. It would suck to do all that work for nothing.
@@opuslott7035 sorry haven’t been keeping up with the comments here lately.. but the tool should come with the thermostat. see 5:50
@@ej.infamous got it thanks
this is keith thanks for the info
Good information, I recently learned that vehicles that are from the same year/make/model can actually have more than one type of engine/transmission on the same year/make/model so the only way I was able to find the part was through the VID, so this scenario is good example of what happens. Manufacurer claims the reason for this is the vehicle assembly plant as certain parts are used for certain vehicles.. so depending on where the car was assembled will determine what the car is equipped with.. (which doesnt make any sense)
Between rear and firewall.
Can you find out where you got the thermostat housing from?? I can't find it anywhere
How do you get the thermostat out of the housing. That spring is strong as hell and I can't seem to get it out. I tried using 2 pliers to hold the spring down to take the old 1 out the housing, but it just slips off.
I’m wondering the same thing
@@bryanlowry4153 I figured it out. When I bought the thermostat it came with a thick toilet paper roll thing, you use that to push down and twist. Didn't think it would hold up, but it did.
Thanks for the video. Much appreciated. I almost ignored the video because it wasn't step by step. I've gotten lazy since RUclips. I'm sure that's why people gave negative remarks. I've gotten used to step by step videos. Although your video wasn't step by step, the information contained there -in is absolutely invaluable. Thanks for taking the time. You can please some of the people some of the time but you can't please all the people all of the time.
This is probably one of the worst auto fix videos I’ve ever seen
Hey bro thanks for the info but how did u get the metal pipe out of the outlet I took out all the bolts but the pipe is stuck in the housing
The OJ Mobile.
That’s not even a 95
Where did u get the o ring?
I appreciate your work. Thanks for the information.
Thanks for the video. I found it helpful. Now I know which mechanic knows what he is talking about and why it is so expensive to replace the thermostat.
I got all the parts and 4 mechanics quoted me 456-600$ for labor! I took it apart and installed in 2 hours
@@FenrirYT13same lol mines said $600 and everyone after said the same, I’m just having an issue putting it back inside now, I have to remove the blk pipe as well. Like he said I’ll remove the one in the back as I’ve finally found the bolt
And yes you have to loosen the bigger steal hose
I did mine 2013 cts takes alot of time and patience
thanks for the heads up,im taking my car to a mechanic, to much bs for me!
Thanks for the heads-up. The Book says 1.6 hours for this job. ( I am sure I will need 3.6 hours HA ) I think you are right about having to loosen that steel coolant pipe. Unfortunately in the future when people have to replace the whole pipe it is quoted at 6 hours! Remove Catalytic Conv , alternator and splash shields. Ouch.
I don't really think that you need to be complaining about other people's videos, yours is crap too.
I am still trying to figure why it’s in the back of the engine ?, I have a 2007 CTS 2.8
Engine was designed to be mounted Transversely in a Front Wheel Drive
I broke my Thermostat housing by trying to harm it back in to place. Because that metal pipe would not move. I had to remov so much stuff to have clearance for my tools. The O-rings were dry rotted and pour coolant all over the road. That motor mount has a rubber Pieces
I bought the thermostat housing at O'Reilly's (highly recommended). Good video to help scope the amount of time to remove and replace.
Glad (not really) I wasn't the only one dealing with this misery. 20 mins to get to the thermostat, an hour to get it out. I wish I watched the entire video and heard about loosening the bolt for the pipe. After an hour, I got frustrated and used my 3ft pry bar... Well, sure as shit, I cracked the tab on the stupid housing that holds the actually thermostat and now I have to buy the whole thing. I'd like to know what fkin moronic engineer designed this POS... Thanks for the video though. I debated making one too after dealing with this.
This video is a waste of time
Why post video after thermostat is out smh
is this the same on the 09 sts 3.6. mine is a single electric fan in the front
I have a 07 srx and I'm removing the transmission and that's a bitch you need to remove the exhaust, driveline, intake manfold. the starter needs to come out in order to get the torque converter bolts out and the termostat housing needs to come off so you can get to the top transmission bolts and it's no room what soever .so much bullshit just to take out a transmission I was stuck on that termostat thanks for the video
*murray p/n at oreillys for the water outlet and tstat is 52180
That's good info bro. I appreciate that. Weird how it shows up for some models and not others. The CTS is so popular/common, lol. You would think all the part numbers would be easy to reference.
For future reference if you look up water outlet for a 2005 Cadillac SRX you can get that water outlet easily I can get a Murray number for you here in a second at O'Reillys
I'm working on the same engine in an srx and I'm at the point of the water pipe removal and I couldn't understand if just the bolts in the front under the water pump and at the inlet pipe connection were the only ones required or is it nessasary to gain access to it at the exhaust manifold as well?
If I'm understanding you correctly, the bolt near the front attaches the pipe bracket to the side of the motor, there is another bolt which does the same thing in the back upper left hand corner of the motor... that one is the most critical as it is this bolt which prevents vertical movement of the pipe and will not allow you to lift the upper part of the housing away from the bottom part. Additionally, removing the 3rd bolt at the pipe connection which secures to the upper housing does not disengage the pipe due to the second bolt in the back corner of the motor which will not allow you to lift the upper housing nor retract the pipe horizontally away from the housing. So NO, there are not 2 but 3 bolts. you have to get a small flash light. I actually have lighted gloves that I used in this area because there is so much mess back there you cant see the bolt. It tucked behind some wiring if I recall. If you have large hands you probably will have a hard time finding it. 4:26 in the vid is where I point out the location which i understand is difficult to tell where it is in relation to the housing. standing in front of the car its in the upper left corner on the back of the motor about 10 inches away from the housing. try tracing the pipe from the side of the motor to the back and you should be able to find it.