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Ideal for vessels like yours. Especially if the weight is on the transom. Let me know how you go.

That’s fantastic isn’t it. You’ll never get anywhere near that long time reliability with a modern 4 stroke

Gday Clayton1379. When set at the right height, it sits on the surface of the water causing that lift at the transom. Just as the anti cavitation plate is meant to work.

Thanks so much.

Well said. I hear people talking about the ethanol issue a lot but it is something I don't have a problem with myself as we can't by E10 or any ethanol fuel where I live. Plus, we have the option of standard fuel with no ethanol or fuel with added ethanol when I am away from my home town. I will do a video on ethanol just to inform people about the issues with this type of fuel. Thanks for the feedback. Very informative. SBC.

I do that all the time and never had a problem. So I would say no. I've been away in my boat for two or more weeks, using it everyday in saltwater and not flushing it and no problems.

@@smallboatcaptain1968 Good to know. Cheers

Thanks mate. Glad it helped.

I agree with you there. It is not a massive difference in the smaller engines but once over 50hp, you are saving a substantial amount of money with a 4 stroke.

Glad it helped mate. SBC

Yes very true. Sometimes I don't think boaties from overseas would also be watching.

Makes it hard when you can't flush. But I used to work at a island resort that had a water sports department with ski boats. We never flushed those engines either but perhaps because they were used all the time they always lasted for years.

That's right mate. The Etec burns bugger all oil due to its direct injection. The larger engines seem to burn it a bit but up to 50hp, they don't burn much at all. SBC

Yeah for sure. Let me know how she goes. Should lift the back of the boat.

@@smallboatcaptain1968 shure does!

I to have a Ranger Bass Boat And boy is it heavy in the ass, end 4 batteries plus a 40 gallon fuel tank Like to know how yous is running? Thanks from Connecticut USA

@@greggo502 love mine. It's not a miracle worker but I noticed a difference!! I'm in the same situation and I pushed her wot to 55.4 mph

Defiantly more power. That has to be the number one advantage.

That's a controversial statement but I know lots of blokes that love Etecs and many more that had nothing but issues with them. You have to love the grunt of a two stroke such as an Etec. What would you buy now that Etecs are no more?

@@smallboatcaptain1968 I would still buy a 2 stroke outboard. I never owned a e-tec but new all about them. My parents just sold there lake property with my old boat it was a 1969 Johnson 25 horsepower on a 14 ft aluminum boat. Boat was a 1962 it can hold a 40 on the back was rated for it. No boat no more. But in another year my parents plan on getting a party boat. I probably would get a Yamaha 2 stroke seem good. I mostly on that 14 ft boat that I have had since I was 17 years old. I have had mostly 60's motors on the boat except I had a 91 8 horse mercury.

@@Kyle-bb9zp Fair enough. In those small horse power ratings I also like 2 stroke.

Couldn’t agree more. Bullet proof.

Still have an '82 Mariner 50 2 stroke that's running great

That's fantastic. You look after it and it will keep going for God knows how long.

I love it. Great idea.

Thanks. You are more than welcome to share your knowledge on the subject. SBC.

Yeah, poor bugger. But he survived.

Thanks mate. SBC

That would help for sure.

You can get small foils for 15hp engines. Should help it get on the plane. Let me know how it goes

G'day tacticaladvance. I am a little confused about the question. If my outboard motor is on its side, then something horrible has gone wrong. I can only assume you are talking about 2 and 4 stroke CDI motors in general such as in chainsaws and gardening equipment etc. Sticking to outboards, my concern with 2 strokes is that some of the unburnt fuel mix is pushed out of the cylinder with the exhaust fumes. It is also a dirtier burn due to the engine burning 4, 2 or 1% oil mix. This is improved dramatically with modern 2 strokes such as the ETec. Now, the simple facts are, I will release more carbon into the environment in my car, in my plane travels and getting freight moved around the country then I will ever burn running my little 30hp 2 stroke. So, for smaller engines, I am still a big fan of the 2 stroke. SBC.

If you hook the muffs up and you don't get water coming out of the pisser but you do with a bucket, then definitely use a bucket. Bucket is the best method anyway but out of convivence, I use the muffs.

Thanks mate. Glad you enjoyed it. SBC

Thanks mate.

That's fantastic mate. So good to hear. I wasn't too sure myself on how well it would go on the 15hp but sounds like it has worked amazingly well. SBC.

Thanks for the kind words. Glad you're enjoying the channel.

You must be a race/speed boat fanatic AJM. This channel is all about small boats and the basics. Off course you can get customised props and every reply you give is correct. You obviously know what you're talking about. But you must agree that to get an engine into the right rev-range on a small weekend boat setup, two or three choices will be all that is required unless that boat is way under or overpowered. SBC

@@smallboatcaptain1968 I am indeed but that has nothing to do with the basics. You don't need a custom or race prop to get the right weekender setup. Power tech propellers sold by Aussie companies have plenty of stainless options. A stainless prop with cupping is going to grab the water better, allowing you to lift the motor and change the whole characteristics of any boat. All people need is the right information instead of being told there are not many options 👌🤙👍

@@AJM-0205 I totally see your point mate but I disagree. Custom stainless props on small weekend runabouts don't make enough difference to justify the cost and protentional damage to your engine. Not to mention to extra weight spinning on the end of the shaft. Get the rev range correct with the right standard pitch and diameter and you will be 90% sorted. I could make a video about the other 10% but for the average beginner boatie that watches this channel, it's not needed. That's my opinion and I understand you don't agree, and that's OK. I used to run a watersports dept for a big resort in Queensland. We had a couple of ski-boats and our mechanic insisted we had shit props. They were stainless off course but just your standard Solas. We changed to custom props and it made no difference at all. We then changed to another custom prop and lost our high-end rev range unloaded. finally found a cup in a smaller diameter that gave up our revs back and it was better out of the hole but at the end of the day, I couldn't justify the expense so just stuck with Solas. We spent a lot of money to make a small difference. I agree with what you are saying, the right custom prop makes a difference. Just not enough for a bloke like me to go changing from a $150 aluminium off the shelf job.

All valid points AJM. But I don't have a racing boat set up. I don't have a jacking plate. I don't want a stainless-steel prop. I do understand, and mention in the video, that the hydrofoil is there to fix a problem. Due to it being a factory setup up fishing boat, it is far from the perfect setup that you need in a racing boat. I fish around rocks and do a prop from time to time. Just part of my lifestyle and most other anglers are in the same boat, so alloy props for me. Plus, it's only a 70hp engine, so the alloy prop isn't going to flex like it would on a boat with a bigger engine that is built for speed. Going stainless on a 70hp makes bugger all difference until you hit a rock. So, I can totally see your point. It is all about optimising the set up. Or, if it isn't quite right, throw a $150 worth of hydrofoil on the outboard. SBC

Bro, you’re only partly (a mini part) correct. Go back & do more research as I don’t want to embarrass you.

@@murfrirhke4557 feel free to try embarrass me all you want my friend. Be careful but you might make yourself look like a bit of a goose. These wastes of time are mainly only popular in Australia. I'm not however, referring to the American hydrofoils that they put in the flats boats for a specific reason. Get a decent prop and set the boat and motor up properly, hydrofoils are a bandaid fix. Feel free to Google it.

@@murfrirhke4557 Don't hold back mate. I don't get embarrassed. If I am wrong then please let me know. However, my target audience is small boat owners that just want to get out on weekends and go boating or fishing. No racing boat enthusiasts with jacking plates and custom props. Just weekend boaties. I have been boating for over 40yrs, owned many many boats and have worked for many years as a commercial skipper so like to think I know a little. But always willing to learn. SBC.

You can keep your stainless prop and bend your prop shaft whenever you like. I'll keep my alli prop and limp home if I make a little mistake.

Thanks so much. Nice to hear mate.

Hahaha. Mine included.

I will do that for sure but what do you mean about Trip your danforth? I have never heard that term before.

Sorry for the confusion- maybe just my term but what I mean is most of them have a hole on the end where the flukes pivot from - the anchor chain is shackled to this point and run back to the normal point of attachment- some cable Tie this joint others lash it but either way if you snag up you can break the secondary attachment point and pick the anchor up and out of its hookup from the primary point.

@@nathanvary7482 I am with you now. Yeah I agree. I will do an "on the water" video and may even try to get my anchor snagged and show how it can be saved. Thanks for the feedback. SBC

Haha The Park Bad Boy. What a RUclips Name. Always happy to help mate. Thats what this channel is all about. I just went online to see what props are available and you've done your homework. With such a massive rev problem, I would be trying to prop the pitch to around 10.5 but seems that you can't. So that prop is about all that you can try. I don't think it will get it in that sweet spot but it will help. I tried finding a 10.5 x10 for a 50 Yammy but they don't seem to make them. Sorry I can't be more help Park Bad Boy. SBC.

@@smallboatcaptain1968thanks mate good advice. I'm going to take it out on a calm day and do some tests and workout if I go down to one or two pitches, either the G series 11 5/8 x 11 or even lower at 11 3/4 x 10....I'll keep an eye out for an after market 10.5 x10.

@@TheParkBadBoy Let me know how it goes mate. Its a tricky one.

How did it go? Charge enough to keep the accessory batteries going?

@smallboatcaptain1968 it works ok thinking of getting a mat made for it just to protect the bimimi. And m not sure if the minn kota can handle the 13.2v charge so I disconnect it when I charge that battery

@@regkershaw Good call. I do the same by flicking the circuit breaker to isolate the MinnKota.

Luckily I don't have aby friends.

Thanks mate.

G'day Steve. You're right mate. Two strokes have heaps more torque. It will be noticeable but that is not to say that the 70hp four stoke isn't going to get you through the bar or give you any major issues with power. I have a 70hp four stroke Yamaha on a plate boat that would be similar weight to the old Cruiseabout and it punches out of the hole, cruises along nicely and economically and is a great engine. Weight wise is no longer a major issue either. From memory, a 70hp four stroke is around 100kgs and the F70 four stroke is 120kgs. That's $10 more fuel in the tank. Not enough to even worry about. So my opinion remains, small two strokes such as 40hp or lower are great but anything bigger, its four stroke all the way for me. Less torque for sure but that's about it. Cruising and top end speed will be the same just at half the fuel burn. And weight is not a big issue. As much as a love the power of two strokes, upgrading to a four stoke won't be a big issue mate. SBC

G'day Mate. I am guessing that the 25hp struggles to get up on the plane and moving with such a load and unfortunately, it's unlikely that the hydrofoil with make any difference. It's just too much load for a 25hp on a 4.1m. Even a 30hp would struggle. One of my boats is a 4m flat bottom punt and I can't get that to plane with more than 3 people. And that has a 30hp with a foil. I try to avoid a hydrofoil but if I need just that extra lift to push me onto the plane or I have a ventilation issue on turning like I had in my Seajay, than I go for it. But in your case, the slight lift that a hydrofoil will give, would be enough to offset the weight. Sorry I couldn't be more positive. SBC.

Haha. My poor dogs. They have to be under my feet so I do shit like that all the time. SBC.

Haha No you're not a dickhead mate. I agree. I see them always on the positive but because of the busbar, it made sense to just cut my negs so I thought, what's the difference? And it seems to work perfectly fine. Thanks Glen. Maybe someone will comment to let me know why I should have wired it to cut the positives but until then, it seems to isolate the battery.

G'day mate. It depends on the boat. The 8.5 would work better if the boat is very light but if it has some gear in it and runs loaded up, the 8.5 would put too much stress on the engine. This will reduce the revs and slow you down. Think of boats like manual cars that are stuck in one gear. IF you were stuck in top gear, you would never get on the plane because the engine is under too much load. Low gear would get you going but you would over rev and blow the engine. You have to find that sweet spot. One way to find out is to try it. If it doesn't make you go faster or is too slow to get you on the plane, just use it as a spare prop and stick with the 7.5. Hope that helps. Sorry I can't give you a definite answer.

@@smallboatcaptain1968 the boat weights like 150 to 200 kg. but i still think i will keep 7.5 since i got 30 kmh with it, think its good speed for outboard engine which is only 8 hp. thanks for answer. appericiate

Yeah good call. Seems like the best prop for the engine.

Glad you got something out of it mate. SBC