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Wolfe Edition
Добавлен 21 дек 2019
DIY for automotive and other randomness.
2015 Chrysler Town & Country - Oxygen Sensor - (O2 Sensor) - Replacement 3.6L V6
Information on my experience replacing all the oxygen sensors on a 2015 Chrysler Town & County with a 3.6L V6 engine. I believe this may also apply to the 2011 - 2016 Chrysler Town & Country as well as the Dodge Grand Caravan.
Here are the parts as well as their location. The NGK (NTK) brand is what comes from the factory just without the Mopar box and extra cost.
NTK 23162 has a short wiring harness and a white connector to match the white connector from the factory wiring harness.
There are 3 of them on the 2015 Chrysler Town and Country
Here is a link you can purchase from Amazon directly:
amzn.to/3QFrclR
POSITION(S):
(BANK 1 SENSOR 1) - UPSTREAM - RIGHT - CLOSEST TO WINDSHIELD
(BANK 2 SENSO...
Here are the parts as well as their location. The NGK (NTK) brand is what comes from the factory just without the Mopar box and extra cost.
NTK 23162 has a short wiring harness and a white connector to match the white connector from the factory wiring harness.
There are 3 of them on the 2015 Chrysler Town and Country
Here is a link you can purchase from Amazon directly:
amzn.to/3QFrclR
POSITION(S):
(BANK 1 SENSOR 1) - UPSTREAM - RIGHT - CLOSEST TO WINDSHIELD
(BANK 2 SENSO...
Просмотров: 70 087
You rock man. Thanks for the video.
El mejor pinchi video que explica cómo cambiar y ubicar los sensores de una Chrysler Town & Country. Un video para que sea un “do it yourself” El mejor video para sensor de una Town & Country.👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼👍🏼
Great video but, like most of these, it fails to show the extreme lengths you must go to just to get a single one of these loose. They make it look easy with the hard part already done.
Great video Ty! Doing this tonight.
Thank You for your insight!!
You did great 👍🏼 help me a lot thank you
Bank 1 sensor 2 needs the NTK 23161 because the plug is different, unless you like to cut and splice wires.
I ordered the parts for all four O2 sensors and they all came with longer wiring harnesses. My guess is that it won't matter where each one of them goes as long as the plugs match and they do. My car came up with several codes and gas mileage dropped like crazy. So away I go with it. Your video is great and you did a wonderful job explaining everything. Thank you.
Vertical well explained. Thank you
Best video ive seen yet thanks you have shown me all 4 sensor locations
Thank you so much for doing this video and most of all for the detailed understanding of this job.
THANKS,YOU GREAT TEACHERS EXPLAINER VERY GOOD , (GOD BLESS YOU)
If you take the fan off it will give you a lot more space to work with.
thanks for being so, so, so clear about bank1 and 2 and especially the experience with the cable length and connector for the two different sensor models. Good video. The only thing you didn't show was (assuming you had to work on your back for bank 2), how contorted and exhausting to get a wrench and breaker-bar onto sensors. ha
Did the engine light go of say to replace the C Converter??? If the computer says to replace 1 sensor, should you replace all 4? What does this do, give you better gas millage?
Hey bud loved the video very detailed, yes all the info online is confusing, quick question for you , i have error code for bank 1 sensor 2. They say to replace in pairs, thats the specialty one but which other one is its partner? Is it replace the 2 at the catylic converter or the specialty one and one of the ones at the front of the engine? Many thanks.
Thanks, this was very informative and helped me a lot
what codes you get in order to replace those?
VERY HELPFUL AND FILMED VERY WELL. THANK YOU!
Only video in the entire internet that got all the critical points right, lol. Thanks a lot for making this video. Saved me a ton of time and a migraine in my T&C.
Only video in the entire internet that got all the critical points right, lol. Thanks a lot for making this video. Saved me a ton of time and a migraine in my T&C.
Thanks for the video! I'm going to be replacing the oil cooler soon, so will wait to tackle the o2 sensors as i'll have more clearance once the manifold is removed. Does anyone have the parts link from Amazon? Will be doing on a 2015 caravan r/t, so they should be the same.
Bank 1 sensor 1 is located right side top?
Great video. Thanks for doing it. Great camera shots. Wish you had a similar video for replacing the spark plugs.
Thank you for the well explained and visual video.
Excellent job showing and explaining, thanks
Excellent video loved it and learned much thanks!
I have a p0430 code on my 2013, how do I know if I need just the sensors or a new Catatylic?
Entonces si el escaneo da un código específico. Hay que cambiar los 3 sensores?
This is great and exactly what I needed for the same vehicle. About to fix this today.
I don’t think there’s really a special part they’re all the same. Ok so I made sure all mine clipped in before I started but all the wires are the same and all black clips and same length .
Walker products oxygen sensors are universal for Bank 1 sensors 1 & 2. They both have black plugs and they both have the long wire. Bank 2 sensors 1 & 2 are also universal. I called Walker products to confirm this. Great video, it was a huge help. Thank you for making!
Scottie called it stupid cap😹😸👴
Awesome, thanks.
Thank you sir. Really appreciate this helpful video.
Finally found a video that explains where bank 1 is. Appreciate the detailed video
I have a 2013 Chrysler 200, same engine. The oil dipstick is same location so it looks like the engines are mounted the same way in Chrysler 200. There is a video out there for Chrysler 200 O2 sensor that Clearly states the front bank is bank 1...which is INCORRECT . I know this guy spent a lot of time explaining which is which and that is good because I had ODB code for bank 1 sensor 1 and the other video led me astray . Unfortunately, I just cut the wires off the old one and used a regular 7/8 socket. So I kind of screwed myself by trashing the old one. I had cited 2 sources on the bank issue . But apparently there's is a lot of fake news about the bank designations online. I'm still getting the same B1S1 error on the Chrysler . So I'm betting this guy is correct and I replaced the wrong sensor. Fortunately, I bought a 2nd sensor when I still had the error because I've had bad parts right out of the box before. So I do have another sensor to place in the other location. Just not looking forward to crawling under a Chrysler 200 which is much lower to the ground than a minivan. But everything on the 200 has been a pain so far...from removing the fender well to replace the battery. Removing the fender well AGAIN 2 months later to replace the headlight bulb. And now having to crawl under for the O2 sensor . I suppose it's just something I'll have to get used to. My CX-9 and Chevy truck are tons easier to work on. I suppose Chrysler is trying to guarantee their service techs a job. That battery location is ridiculous! Thanks so much for the info!
Thanks for this video, you explain it so good 👍
Do you have to change them all?
No definitely not. I have heard you should replace them in pairs meaning both bank 1 sensors or both bank 2 sensors. But I have replaced 1 on vehicles before and had no issues.
My 17 Grand Caravan will have all 4 replaced in four days along with PCV valve & both rear shocks. Learned from experience with my 04 Town&Country, always go factory for sensors. The 3 matching o2 sensors were $123.00 each, lone special sensor $96.00 & PCV valve was $110.00 from the dealer. I'm praying this fixes the intermittent CEL issues & not needing a cat replacement? 🙏 Thank you for this insightful video!
I hope everything worked out for you! If you do end up having to replace a cat I would recommend looking on eBay. I have replaced many cats with eBay parts. Cheapest source. Sometimes fitment you have to fight with a bit. But was worth it for the savings
I'm currently experiencing an intermittent issue with CEL on my 2018 grand caravan, code is P0430. Mechanic suggested replacing Cat and all 02 sensors but can't afford it. What codes were you dealing with and did the new 02 sensors solve your issue? That's the avenue I'm trying to pursue as well, especially since carfax shows a cat replacement done about 2 years ago.
Did it work?
Hey brother by any chance where did you purchase the four sensors and do you recommend rock auto
I've had surprisingly good luck with CarID.
Sorry for the delay. I actually got mine from NAPA in my town. I have purchased from rock auto and have had good luck. The most important thing I can tell you is no matter where you buy them from just make sure you get the specific NTK brand parts. They are OEM specs. Other brands may give you issues. Save yourself the trouble and hassle. Do the job once 🙂
Very detailed explanation, thank you for that part descriptions too. I was wondering what codes you were getting before the fix?
Thank you, it was very useful!!!
You're welcome!
Great video. Pulling a P0420 on my wife's T&C. Just verifying that the underside sensors are both BANK 1 Sensors #1 & #2. Sensor #1 is ? Seems like the 3rd and 4th you replaced are both downstream, so would be sensor #2 for each bank? Or have I completely confused myself here? lol
The Bank 1 and Bank 2 are actually based on the position of cylinder 2. Cylinder 2 if you are looking at your engine is on the left corner closest to you. Here is a good image to depict it…. www.chryslerminivan.net/cdn-cgi/image/format=auto,onerror=redirect,width=1920,height=1920,fit=scale-down/www.chryslerminivan.net/attachments/engine-firing-order-jpg.55804/ Sensor 1 for both banks are the top ones (they are known as upstream). Sensor 2 for both banks are the bottom ones (they are known as downstream). POSITION(S): (BANK 1 SENSOR 1) - UPSTREAM - RIGHT - CLOSEST TO WINDSHIELD (BANK 1 SENSOR 2) - DOWNSTREAM - RIGHT - CLOSEST TO WINDSHIELD (BANK 2 SENSOR 1) - UPSTREAM - LEFT - CLOSEST TO RADIATOR (BANK 2 SENSOR 2) - DOWNSTREAM - LEFT - CLOSEST TO RADIATOR Hope this clears things up 😊
@@wolfeedition It does. Parts ordered. Wish me luck!
@@johnnyadams1590 best of luck! Take your time. If you have troubles getting it to break loose use some rust penetrator like Sea Foam Deep Creep or PB Blaster. Let it sit for a bit. Then try again. Feel free to post back if you get hung up! You got this!!
@@wolfeedition Thanks brother! Good tip about the Deep Creep. I am gonna pick up a can just to have around the garage. Will keep you posted. Happy 4th! 🇺🇸
I would explain it like the 2 that are closest to the top of the engine are senor #1 on both banks. Then the lower sensor, closer to the ground, is sensor #2 on both banks. Then you just have to recognize which bank is bank #1 which is the rear bank next to the firewall. Once you know that, you can probably figure out which is bank 2 since it's your only other option. If you know which bank is bank #1 and still can't figure out which bank is #2, definitely take your car to a mechanic and stay away from engine work. My youngest brother couldn't learn left and right. So one day, I said "hand me your left hand " I wrote an L on it . Then he pushed his right hand toward me. I said "why are you giving me your right hand?“. He said "Aren't you going to put an R on this hand ?“ I said "NO . Figure out which is your LEFT HAND first, then if you still can't figure out which is you're right hand , we'll get you a lobotomy."
good luck getting your hand down in there on the first one like he did. Unless he has child hands this is extremely difficult. And then the damn O2 sensor wont get started. Took me 3 fucking hours
While I don't have child hands 🖐🏻👶🏻🤚🏻😂, it is a very tight fit. Some alternative options would be to remove the upper radiator hose for more access or use a combination of swivels and extensions and feed it down it the small space. Hope the video at least gave you some guidance.
Hello, how were you able to do it? Im curious because i have chrysler 200 and there is no space to fit your hand down from the top, like you said. Did you take off any other parts to get more space? Or did you just fight with it for 3 hours? thank you for any reply.
Hello George. I did not remove any other components. I have my arm just kind of mashed down in between everything. It didn’t take me long. You do have to kind of feel your way around as visibility is limited. If you are unable to get your arm in there I would suggest removing the fan assembly or upper radiator hose to give you more space. Just take your time and it’s really not a terrible job to do.
Are the oxygen sensor part numbers the same for a 2012 VW Routan SE? Please I can't find info anywhere
I would got directly to NTK (NGK) website. Here is the link.. www.ngk.com/ntk-oxygen-sensors-ngk For a 2012 Volkswagen Routan SE SKU: #23161 ITEM: #NTK23161 POSITION(S): DOWNSTREAM RIGHT (BANK 1 SENSOR 2) QTY REQ. PER VEHICLE: 1 SKU: #23162 ITEM: #NTK23162 POSITION(S): UPSTREAM RIGHT (BANK 1 SENSOR 1), UPSTREAM LEFT (BANK 2 SENSOR 1), DOWNSTREAM LEFT (BANK 2 SENSOR 2) QTY REQ. PER VEHICLE: 1
Very good video. Helpful! Thanks.
Thank you! Glad it was helpful!
Hi great video better than taking the top end apart to get the bank 1 sensor 1 out . Is this the same engine as in a the 2016 dodge caravan 3.6 engine
Yes. This should be the same for 2016 Dodge Caravan. I recommend double checking the NTK (NGK) website. Here is the link.. www.ngk.com/ntk-oxygen-sensors-ngk
My deepest thanks to you. This is a very helpful video. I say hello and Thx. Again from Chicago.
You're most welcome. I appreciate you taking the time to leave a positive comment! And hello to you too. I am in central Illinois.
So they did change the engine. My 2010 3.8 only has 2. The upstream is hard to get too