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@@andrewmoon9889 good luck in your search! What part of the world are you looking?

@@tea-hc5557 with that much flow you will easily be able to hear even the OEM style burbles, especially when it has warmed up. Enjoy your new car!

Yes you can change your final drive ratio using the Rear Axle Ratio option. I plan on doing the same thing in the future.

@JasonJoyrides hmm. I see repeated issues with 2.56 on the dct with m3 lsd swap sp wasn't sure. Seems like for cost of used m3 lsd .. plus xhp would be cheaper and better to just go with a plug and play mfactory lsd

@@Jewnbug1 I’ve been doing a lot of research on this as well man. I’ve been back and forth between getting an entire rear subframe assembly from a wrecked M3 and swapping that in or going with just upgrading bushings and whatnot back there or just doing an LSD swap designed for the 135i but not one that is the whole housing and everything. Interested to hear what you end up going with if you sort yours out before me.

@JasonJoyrides from what I've been told.. the entire rear subframe swap is not worth it at all. This from many that track theirs and state .. bushings , control arms rear and front and lsd is all you need to have that superior ride. The the subframe is negligible and not needed as the current subframe is perfectly fine.

@@Jewnbug1 that’s good news for me then. All M3 bushings and control arms are currently in my cart lol. Just saving up till I can go full send on it. So I guess at that point I’ll be really close and just need to do the LSD, which MFactory is only like $900ish right?

@@mariovaladez1 send me a DM on Instagram @JasonJoyrides and I’d be happy to send a video

@@mariovaladez1 do you mean the USB for wired CarPlay?

The one you call the the USB I have same harness but won't push in

My harness has key 1 and key 2 did you use any of those

Oh I remember what you are talking about. It's almost like the female micro USB they provide is too small but if you compare them they look fine. I just muscled mine in there. Once I forced it in one time it was a little easier after that. Not sure why it is slightly smaller but you should be able to force it in. Just be careful not to bend any of the internal pins as you force it on.

@@mariovaladez1 I believe I ignored the Key 1 and Key 2 wires. I used the power plug, the backup camera, the USB, and the antenna. Once you get it wired up make sure you test it before putting it all back to make sure you have everything working that you want. Since installing it, it has still been working great and has retained functionality of all factory options like steering wheel controls and backup camera. Let me know if you have any other questions and I will do my best to remember what I did.

@@robertpurvis6106 I think my steering wheel is set on the most extended setting (closest to my body) but that’s mainly because I have long legs so my seat is set pretty far back. If I was to guess, I probably reach a bit more in general because I like my arms to be extended in all forms of driving. I rarely rest my hand on the 12 o clock position. If I’m relaxed I drive with one hand on 6, but almost all other times I’m at 9 and 3. I’m weird I guess haha

@@JasonJoyrides Ah that makes sense. I got shorty legs but normal arms, so I have to set the steering wheel all the way in during runs. In the streets I drive different. Habits from work van. I turn the wheel with the palm of my hand. I do lock thumbs in when driving spirited. Glad to see you sending it into the turns. Why we bought the damn thing.

@@robertpurvis6106 you got that right! Can’t wait to have this thing handling right. I have to say though for a RWD car, it’s just stable in corners as a lot of FWD cars are that I have driven. I can only imagine what a proper M car feels like.

@@JasonJoyrides Anything more than 390hp without LSD and it might be dangerous. I find it perfect atm. Small wheelbase and hydraulic steering baby. After getting all new arms up front, I am curious how much better it could be to spend the cheese on the rear. You will get it dialed. Took me a couple yrs and you are moving with it faster than me.

@@chrxsjxhn hey man! No spoilers here… but I may be doing that in a future video!

@@stanelder9995 thank you for your support Stan!

I second that statement.

Mentally? Physically? No one will know...

@@robertpurvis6106 appreciate it bro! Worked hard on this one!

@@GeezerEnduro no sir it’s the only gasket that has not be replaced. Mine is leaking very slowly so I just keep a close eye on my oil level to make sure I don’t starve the engine. I don’t feel like fussing with it yet lol

Always a great time buddy!

@@stanelder9995 glad it worked out for you Stan! Thanks so much for your support!!

@@stanelder9995 happy to help Stan! Glad we got it working!

Hmmm interesting that it skipped that part. Could it be due to the fact that you don't have 7zip on your computer? If it doesn't work this next time, don't delete everything. I can walk you through how to download what you need and in what order for it to be installed. The installer just makes it much easier since it does that for you. I have also installed it a different time where I downloaded each 7zip file separately.

@@JasonJoyrides Hi Jason - thanks for quick reply. I do in fact have 7 zip already installed on this laptop! I even decompressed that big zip file first (before running the installer) to see if that made any difference, but it did not. I'll let you know what happens on the next try and I do appreciate your offer of support!

@@stanelder9995 ah hmmmm. Truly I can't say why it skipped that step then. Hopefully it doesn't this time but we'll get you squared away by the end of it regardless! It's truly a joy to help sir!

@@JasonJoyrides Hi again! I did successfully download the entire torrent again and unfortunately it is doing the same thing. For some reason the installer utility thinks that the installation directory is already pre-selected to be somewhere else and after going through all the other pre-install selections (per your video), the installer then times out immediately with this exact message: "The drive or UNC share you selected does not exist or is not accessible. Please select another."

@@stanelder9995 well that’s frustrating. Send me a DM on insta @JasonJoyrides and I’ll try and walk you through the manual way

@@saintstevealbans7018 Good luck! Let me know if you have any issues. In all fairness, it took me about 2 weeks of research to actually get ISTA downloaded. I tried downloading from multiple places, but this one was the most straight forward.

@@johnarias6462 for sure! Let me know what you’d like to see me do with it!

@@JasonJoyrides flexfuel analyzer install would be a good video. Since most people with these cars are running some type of ethanol Blend. But I could find a video on an diy install on a 135i n55.

@@johnarias6462 I wish I had E85 near me :/

@@alexdeluna1999 ISTA+ does more with F series than E series. The connection with the cable is slightly different though. You need an Ethernet cable instead of a K CAN cable and your connection settings should be ICOM local network instead of EDIABAS. There may be a couple miscellaneous things that I don’t know about just because I haven’t tried to connect to an F series car yet. Hopefully if you run into any snags you can find answers on the forums, but for downloading the actual software it is exactly as shown in the video. Feel free to ask questions as you go along. I love to help!

@@patrikturu truthfully I think anything above OEM style is going to be damaging overtime. Even on the soft settings, when my exhaust warms up it still sounds like an AK. The OEM Style sounds pretty rowdy when you let off above 4-5K RPMs too when it gets hot. If you are trying to play it safe I would have to say OEM Style is the only setting you should go for. If that isn’t loud enough for you though, soft won’t be nearly as bad as medium or hard, so at least you aren’t inflicting that much damage. But over time I think it’s life will definitely be shortened a little. Just my opinion though I’m no expert!

@@BenLittler I love carbon black as well! Mine is actually deep sea blue. It was pretty dark in my garage

@JasonJoyrides still a great choice :)

Truly I cannot speak on the ZF auto cars. I would definitely recommend searching the 1 addicts forum to see if anyone has done it on their ZF6HP. What are your current problems you're having with it?

@@JasonJoyrides just got the car. runs little rough and thought this would improve it also. i think i have an abs speed sensor problem I have to take care of also.

@@kristiemoore3974 hmm if I am honest I don't think your issue has anything to do with what I showed in this video. When you say running rough, do you mean that it is misfiring? Have you used an OBD reader to see if it is running lean/rich? Might be a good place to start just as a preliminary troubleshoot.

You are adding a reverse camera but no head unit? If you don't want to do what I did in this video then you can use the reverse light wire for sure. I saw a great video from someone else where he did that on his E90. He did it the proper way with a relay, not just with the tail light power wire going directly to the camera. I was going to do it his way but was messing around with the wires once I got my aftermarket head unit in and figured I'd try some other methods just to see what I could come up with and was super happy to see it work with the head unit accessory wire.

@@JasonJoyrides yes im going to get a rear view mirror with a back up camera, but i like your backup camera in the truck handle

do you have the video from the e90 you could share?

@@kristiemoore3974 you can get the camera like mine that is integrated into the trunk handle on amazon for around 50 bucks or aliexpress for around 20. Just make sure that you match up your camera output type with the mirror/screen you get. For instance, my screen was AHD 1080P so I made sure I got an AHD 1080P camera.

@@kristiemoore3974 The video is by Tyler Nardone. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/8SmZieCqsYY/видео.htmlsi=HylzCc2159ECPzDS

Yes I misspoke they make 160hp, not 150. As for the LSD, the US spec Abarth did not come with a proper mechanical LSD. You can tell that just by driving it if you've ever driven a car with a true LSD. Look on forums with owners that are tracking these cars. They all recommend putting a true LSD in it, specifically the Quaife.

Have you tried switching back to 1.60 with the pure500?

@@RivetGardener hey man, thank you for watching and for your honest feedback. I’m sorry I came off that way. It wasn’t my intention, but I can totally see that. I think my thought process was to share the things that get old after a while when you daily the car, for other people to consider if they are planning on getting one as a daily. I love these little cars and listed the main reasons why I bought one in my first video. This video was totally a rant and I’m not sure why I couldn’t keep it to just a few main points. I hate this video to be honest and have contemplated taking it down. It’s done pretty well for me on views and gained subscribers though so I’ve left it up. I’m surprised you made it 10 minutes in, but thank you for watching and giving me a chance. I’m sorry this video wasted your time. This was one of my first videos so needless to say it lacked quality, both in production but also in scripting and value delivery. I will not make another video like this again that just focuses on negatives. The car community needs more positivity and I should be an ambassador for that as a content creator. Thank you again for commenting and I’m so sorry to have disappointed you!

@@JasonJoyridesdon’t listen to that guy…

@@leoephrem4889 I mean he did have a point. I pretty much just ranted about the car for the whole video. If I was to do it again, I would pick my top 5 or 6 dislikes and structure the video so that I can talk about those concisely but also stress that I still think it’s a great little car.

@@stanelder9995 love a big DIY guy! I recently did the full service as well as a bunch of other maintenance. I’m happy to report that I have caught up on all maintenance items on the car. I’m working on that ISTA video now and getting it out as soon as I can!

@@itz_dxve after resetting adaptations and doing a full DCT service, the trans has been shifting better than ever. I am chasing down a trans cooling problem but it’s unrelated to what was shown in this video.

@@JasonJoyrides okay thanks. But it is not necessary to to full DCT Service before reseting all the stuff right?

@@itz_dxve no it is not necessary. Tons of people have done the reset on their 135i, 335is, or M3 without touching the physical components. In all of my research, I have found no evidence that it will hurt your transmission. In my case, it made my car drive like an absolute dream.

@@JasonJoyrides okay, because i got an M4 F82 and i always got the problem that when i am coming to a nearly stop, and the car is in 2nd gear, i get on the accelerator and the rpms going up and then after a little while i got a kick in the ass and the car goes on (i think this is because the clutches are not engaging properly or not fast enough). I hope the reset will fix this :/

@@itz_dxve yeah man I had a similar issue where the RPMs would climb to 1800 RPM before the clutch would engage. I think the clutches get bumped around overtime so they need to be recalibrated every now and then.

@@base1y hmmmmm I wonder why that would be. As far as I can tell it poses basically zero risk. Maybe someone else can inform me if there is a risk worth noting. Well hopefully after my video next week, combined with this one, you’ll be able to take care of that yourself for free.

@@JasonJoyrides I live right outside of DC so everywhere is pretty busy. They probably just don't want to go through the trouble of doing it 🫤

@@JasonJoyrides I was thinking the xhp flash might serve as somewhat of an adaptation reset though.

@@base1y dang. I highly highly recommend getting this done over xHP. xHP only changes values in the software to affect how the transmission acts. It does nothing in terms of adaptations. MHD also has adaptation reset options and none of them did a thing for me. I have read that ProTool does transmission adaptation resets, and I saw some people report that it helped them in their case. Could be worth looking into if you don’t want to go the ISTA+ route. ProTool does not perform the same reset that ISTA+ does though, since it does not make it go through the learn-in procedures that is audible in the video.

I appreciate the kind words! How has your 5 series treated you? Any big issues?

@@JasonJoyrides Its had all the maintenance done to it. 150k miles. No leaks no lights. Runs like a champ.

My car is tuned with xHP and it does not make much of a difference, if any at all, when it comes to the speed of the upshift. DCT is as quick as it gets with that. xHP has some other awesome features though that I have really liked having. I made a video on that if you're interested.

@@JasonJoyrides i see, i come from a e92 n55 and the zf 6 auto comes alive from the tunes. Will check that vid out

@@Pahang.bend17 ah yes, xHP is a miracle worker with the ZF6HP!

Big oof! Hopefully it's not due to something too expensive

As great as that would be, I couldn't justify getting one just for one video. Thanks for watching though man!

I’m so glad it helped!!

I would say that music sounds the same but I have noticed a slight bit of distortion on phone calls or when Siri reads a text to me. It doesn’t bother me much but just something I noticed.

Nice! I will let you know that I believe the F10 535i has different map packs from my E82 135i, which means that you have the regular N55 license from MHD which does not actually have different versions to choose from like the N55e platform shown in this video.

@@JasonJoyrides I did not know that thanks. Have you dyno your car to see what the difference in power is? I have done the stock dyno which put me at 300hp/323tq interested to see what the MHD tune does.

@@ProjectZGarage no sir I have not dynoed it. I will eventually when I get a custom tune. The butt dyno can definitely tell a difference though, especially if I go back to stock after being on stage 2+ for a while.

FANTASTIC!! Can’t buy smiles for much cheaper than that! Hope it stays reliable for you man

There’s a lot of variables that play into the answer to that question but I’d say yes stage 1 will not hurt anything. Just remember that routine oil changes are the most important thing with these cars. Now that they are getting older, we are seeing high mileage cars that lasted because they were taken care of, and lower mileage cars that weren’t taken care of the way they should have are having failures. If your engine has been well cared for, the mileage doesn’t scare me at all.

@@JasonJoyrides thank you for the input. The oil has been changed every 3000-3500 miles and coils and spark plugs were recently done. If I was to just run stage 0 burble on medium from what I read that won’t affect anything reliably wise is that correct?

@@That_slowf10 that’s correct stage 0 is the stock map with only burbles and a couple other options that you can change that won’t affect the engine. My only word of caution with the burbles would be to stick to soft burbles because running the more aggressive burbles can blow up your turbo. It’s super hard on the seals.

@@JasonJoyrides ok thank you for the feedback

@@That_slowf10 of course man! I highly suggest joining the N55 facebook page. Lots of knowledgeable people on there with tons of experience.

Appreciate it man!

@@JasonJoyrides definitely gonna do this upgrade soon. What’s next for your car??

@@troyboyblack3630 right now I’m catching up on maintenance before going on a tail of the dragon trip. After that I’d like to get into some suspension stuff

Truthfully, I don’t know much about it. I do remember seeing a post from DiCorse on one of the Facebook pages where he was talking about it. I believe he said that 95% of cars that came in his shop with that issue, it was due to a lack of routine maintenance as well as oil starvation (usually due to a lack of routine maintenance). These cars burn oil (some believe they don’t burn oil but actually suffer from blow by or that the turbo is the one burning the oil) so it is easy to allow the oil level to get too low which causes a multitude of problems. It’s a basic answer but the best thing you can do with these cars is stay on top of the oil changes and wait for the car to warm up before you start getting into boost. My car has been very reliable and I beat on it (responsibly) daily.

Hey man, I am getting my power from my head unit. There is a 12v accessory wire coming out of mine. Based on what I could find on that wire, it shouldn’t cause any issues. I’m not an electrical expert though. My head unit is programmed to switch to the backup camera if it senses the car is in reverse. It does that without needing a trigger wire. I’m assuming that it is getting that information from a canbus.

I will add that I tried this technique on a Toyota 4Runner with a similar head unit and it did not know to switch when the car was in reverse, so the head unit assumed that since it was getting power, it should be displaying the camera, hence the camera was on 24/7 and you couldn’t use the head unit! So I did have to do the conventional reverse light wiring for that one. Since I didn’t do that on my car, I wouldn’t know what color the reverse wire was, but I am certain that information is out there somewhere, either in a wiring diagram or in a forum post. Hope this helps Marquis!

I would say you are definitely right about that. Also a space thing too that with your legs stretched out the firewall would have to be moved. Good observation

I would say that knock or timing correction is usually more of a hardware issue than a tune thing. You definitely want to be running an upgraded intercooler if you want to run stage 2+ because the intake air temps are really important for it to be able run the timing it does on stage 2+. As far as which version is better on stage 2+, the V1.60 map definitely hits harder than the V1.84 map. Based on my research and own experience, it is due to the way it holds boost targets. If you just want to flash your car once, I would just say go with V1.60. But if you want to experiment with it, try both versions and run some logs to see how well you're hitting boost targets and make sure it isn't cutting any timing. Also, this goes without saying but I'll mention it just to cover all the bases, be sure to replace your plugs and coils if they haven't been done in a while, and be sure to upgrade your charge pipe to an aluminum one before you go throwing more boost at it, as well as the upgraded intercooler to help with IATs. Get your hardware right before tuning. You probably know this already, but I don't want to assume!

@JasonJoyrides will try that... as I have a full bolt on upgrades on my 2016 x5 x35i, with spark plugs and coils changed too running RON 95 Oct 91 2+ ... had a lot of cylinder timing correction... went back to stage 2, still have the correction but less... will try the other map flash version.

@@coreman8087 ohhhhhh. So I made this video specifically for the E series N55. MHD has two separate N55 platforms. My understanding is that the F series did not get an update :/ so you unfortunately do not have another option. At that point, I would recommend going for a custom tune from someone like Twisted Tuning. Theres several good ones on the N55. I can't really recommend one over another because I have not gotten that far yet, I only mention Twisted because I know they exist lol.