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SERIOUSLY MATE YOUR A RETAR. IF THE PRINTER WONT WORK AS EXPECTED WE HAVE WARRANTY WE CAN SEND IT BACK . WE DONT MAKE A VIDEO TRYING TO DISTRY CREALITY IMAGE BECAUSE YOUR A BAMBOO FUN. YOU ARE SUCH AN ///.OLE. "IF YOU BUY A PRINTE YOU MAY FIND THAT IS NOT PRINTING" IF YOU GET MERRIED YOU MAY FIND THAT YOU BEEN CHEATED AND YOUR KIDS ARE MADE WITH THE HANDYMEN. OR IF YOU BUY A CAR YOU MAY END UP IN A RIVER OR IN AN ACCIDENT OR STUCK WITH IT ON THE RD. WHAT THE HELL IS WROG WITH YOU!?!?!?! YOU ALIEN.. EVERTHING IN LIFE HAS A CHANCE NOT TO BE AS EXPECTED OR PLANNED. THAT IS WHY WE HAVE WARRANTY FOR OUR MONEY !!! I AM READING THE COMMENT AND I SEE HOW MANY PEOPLE DISAGREE WITH YOU AND YOU DONT EVEN APPOLOGISE. YOU ARE NOT EVEN ABLE TO MAKE ANYTHING IN LIFE NEVER MIND HAVE A FAIR INPARTIAL REVIEW .

DUDE YOU JUST HATE CREALITY :) I HAVE K1C AND I GET PERFECT FIRST LAYER MY EDGES ARE PERFECTLY FINE. iMAGINE I JUST PRINTED A DOOR KEY THAT I SCANNED IT WITH MY RAPTOR SCANNER AND FUCK YEAH ITS WORKING TO OPEN THE DOOR. SERIOUSLY BUT I DONT THINK YOU GOT THE TRAINING AND EXPERIENCE TO BE ON THE SEAT THAT YOUR HAVING. YOU SHOULD TAKE IT MORE EASY IF YOU BARELY DISCOVERED MODELING. THERE ARE MANY PRINTING ISSUES BECAUSE OF BAD MODELING ASWELL. IF YOUR A CRAPPY MODELER THAT DOES NOT KNOW MUCH ABOUT MESH I WOULD NOT BE SUPRIZED IF YOU GET ERRORS FROM A PERFECTLY WORKING PRINTER. I JUST HATE TO SEE FLYS TELLING BEES HOW TO MAKE HONEY.

You can connect the mainboard fan to a different port on the board and set it for temperature control.i dont know why they didnt do this to start with

For all those who says this is garbage. I wouldn´t say so. I am getting this Kobra 2 Neo tomorrow for 149 euros. Before i had Anycubic i3 Mega( paid 250 euros then ) for 5 years and had no problems. It is working well and i donated to my friend and he is printing with it as i write.

In this price range, for amateur it's a great tool. However, I have so many issues with mine that after only a year I am already switching to Bambu. Bed warp is a thing here and one side is always higher than the other despite the leveling. One of the fans also got bad pretty quickly and will have to replace it before selling. Overall - solid 6/10 but nothing to write home about.

Hello! Can I keep the beacon with the stealthchanger?

Can't say id still be getting mine if i saw this video first however, the top lid is scratched to shit, though and i got a nice riser kit to solve that, got the filament tube angle bracket too to decrease the sharpness of the CF filament on the entry even. the extruder has been average, keep getting quite a few jams, and theres not much info on the web regarding Creality Print 5.1 slicer set up and functionality... Unless someone can point me in the direction of

How can I connect the umbilical cords to the Octopus Pro v1.1 board? Which accessory should I use? Because my controller board only has one Canbus connection. My project will have 6 tools, I'm stuck on this. I would appreciate it if you could explain or recommend some brancher/switch to connect all these cables to the board. I'm a beginner.

i am considering mounting magnets into the heated bed. Could be done by drilling holes in every bed corner from the bottom of the bottom panel. Holes only half way through. Needs good measurement.

my k1 max dont print well , i have too many issue , i wont buy any creality product again 😞

The extruder is defective or shipped missing a bearing, its doesn't print at 600mms as advertised...and the bed is a ski slope, and they don't honor their 14 day return policy. All creality does is lie.

this guys a karen

I can’t understand how so many youtubers that are self-proclaimed experts at 3D printing can make this kind of crap. Do you really think the extruder gears look like that when it’s mounted in the toolhead?? I wonder who built the Vorons behind you when your knowledge seems to be at a beginner level at best. The K1C is not without flaws though, but most of it is software related. Root it, do a proper input shaper calibration and free the bowden tube, then it prints flawless.

Hello, can you share the stl for the elevation in z with bars, it would be great for the zero g mercury one community to be able to make hydra in that way, very grateful

I would love a tutorial for stealthchanger and maybe for the dragon burner individually

A tapchanger of some sort is definitely going to be my next big project!!

You've become one of my favorite 3d print RUclipsrs! Thank you for everything you do Austin, cool name BTW lol

Nothing Goingon in the Commons, what the printer is nice when it’s finished of course

I've had two extruder jams in one week, bed is a ski slope that they rely on the auto level to compensate. Trying to send it back but Creality is resisting their 14day money back guarantee. I can't deal with the constant jams

User error?

It be intereasting to see how much this cost compared to the prusa xl with 5 heads. I have a set of Siboor printers, in my opinion they offer the best value for money with no compromise in quality.

I plan on swapping my Orange Storm Giga to this. Do you have start point to this build? A source to start my journey? I plan on watching your full series, just found it.

ty for this.

hmm i´m sitting now in front of my prints i have done to rebuild my 350iger 2.4 into a stealthchanger, but now, after i have build the modular docks i´m not sure if the small docks from viehsturz tapchanger is the cleaner solution. the modular dock is so big and the sight into the printer is very limited by using this system. if u compare both, the dock from viehsturz is so tiny xD.

A washer underneath the pulleys im pretty sure would prevent that binding issue you had

Thank you for your Video it was very helpful ..

Which way do you prefer, AMS or tool changer?

I have nothing but bad experience with k1c, its halve baked product! Lit fals off, software is bad, the app is even worse! No great online support the dont know nothing about any printer they always gonna report to somelse and nothing happens. The app is more about buying premium and cuvacoins then making printing easy from everywhere.

My K1C is 3 weeks old and I cannot print on more than 20% of the build plate due to poor bed levelling and lack of options to manually adjust the bed. I am in the middle of a return process with Creality. You guys who say “you can fix it”.. Well, I could fix it too, but I am not supposed to fix a brand new printer. You don’t fix a new car right out of the dealer right?

Maybe I should get a refund too

I’m really interested in the idea of a tool changer. I have a Bambu P1S now and have been building a Voron 2.4 (taking way too long). I’ve got an ERCF 2.0 printed (someday that might be built). But, I’m thinking I’d like a tool changer better. So, following to this completed.

Isik's tech has a USB/CAN board called bird's nest. USB board with multiple CAN ports. Single voltage input.

Still going CANbus or USB? I was pinched by the Nitehawk36 failures but the board on paper was great (fan management and number of I/O ports). Technically you can use a simple usb hub manage the toolheads so the cable management is basically the same. What’s your stance on CANbus vs USB? I found troubles in CANbus stability once you plug 4-5 stubs (100k transmission speed).

Any update after some time on this printer?

Absolute rubbish, K1C is the best printer I've had, deffo better than the p1p I had, I reckon your problems are incorrect use and operation read the instructions mate 👍

He wants to desperately knit pick and find fault. Opening the extruder and saying the gears are not aligned is utter foolishnes. Its basic common sense to understnad only if you put back the housing it will align without movement. Imo creality has flaws which are easily fixable. it is very good for hobyists who cannot chuck more money to go with Bambu.

I am not getting this why z offset manually, if you have tap capability?

As a Sovol SV08 owner, I am also following your progress with the toolchanger.

I would love to see more detailed content on toolhead building. Also klipper setup for the multi tool system. There really isn't tutorial videos for tool changer setups yet.

The timing is great for me as I am going to get my Voron 2.4 kit by the end of the month. I plan on using Galileo 2 G2SA on dragon burner toolheads and Red Lizard K1-pro hotends. Already have all the parts for 3 toolheads.

I'd like to see the next one be a mix of tools, maybe SB, DB, and Xol. Want to convert my LDO v2 300 soonish

Nice! I am interested in this setup for multi nozzle as well as soluble supports.

Do you share the printer.cfg anywhere for this build?

was there a reason you didn’t go for the Mini BFI idlers?

as far as your power capacity conundrum, instead of adding power, I would prefer to work smarter instead of wasting power. I would want a software interlock so that only 2 (3?) heaters can receive power at any given time. the idea is that via some slicer gcode, you could heat the toolhead for the next change and the current one, and when it docks, it turns off the heater on the tool so you really only need 2 tools hot at any given time (especially given how quickly modern toolheads heat to temp). even to get from room temp to 300c (the reasonable limit for most hobbiest hotends) you're talking about a max of what? 20 seconds? for even less complexity (But arguably longer tool changes by a few seconds), you could set it up so only a single toolhead is heated at any given time very simply by modifying your tool change macro to set the current tool to 0c and set the tool your changing to to whatever temp is needed and wait for heating... it really shouldn't take that long and then you aren't wasting power keeping multiple toolheads hot. *shrug*

I took a look at the "smart sensor for orbiter v2" and was really hoping that it worked the same way that the BTT SFS works (filament spins an encoder letting the board know how much filament has gone through it) because it works not just for detecting filament out conditions, but also for detecting snags, and any under-extrusion condition. the orbiter smart sensor works with 2 standard limit switches, one standard filament detect the other is on a spring to detect filament snags (which would be a good idea if it weren't already for the excellent use of an encoder by the BTT version.) I'm curious if there is a self-buildable version of the BTT approach - perhaps one that can fit in the same physical space as the same physical space as the orbiter v2 sensor setup.

Thanks for paving the way with this. I really want to get to work on retrofiting my v2 into a toolchanger at some point this winter.

Cool 😎👍

Can’t wait to see this tool changer in action!

Awesome, caught this live!!!