- Видео 5
- Просмотров 395 709
Bill Ebrill
Ирландия
Добавлен 3 апр 2013
BMW E90 318d (2009) ABS Reluctor Ring replacement
This video describes the replacement of the ABS reluctor ring on a BMW E90. Due to rust on the drive shaft, the ring expands and rubs off the sensor which starts to give faults. This happened on my RH reluctor ring and was repaired by a dealer. When it happened on the LH ring I decided to research and fix it myself.
Просмотров: 110 030
Видео
BMW E90 318d (2009) ABS Sensor Reluctor Ring Fault
Просмотров 16 тыс.3 года назад
This video shows how to detect which rear axel ABS Sensor/ Reluctor ring is faulty in preparation for a fix.
BMW E90 318d (2009) ABS Sensor Test
Просмотров 6 тыс.3 года назад
This video show how a 2-wire ABS sensor works. This is based on the BMW part 6762466. It may be similar to others. I found it very difficult to test the sensor while connected. I needed to test the sensor as it had become damaged by a fault on the reluctor wheel.
Varanassi India Pontoon Bridge
Просмотров 1164 года назад
Pontoon Bridge Ramnagar Fort to Varanasi city
Polo 9N - Rear door locked shut
Просмотров 264 тыс.6 лет назад
This video describes how the 'deadlock' works in order to understand what has to happen to release the door service the broken lock.
How does the ECU determine the direction of rotation?
@@andremaia1117 I don’t think it needs to. It compares the pulses and if they are not the same then it knows there is a comparative error or if the wheels have locked up it can adjust the ABS. My car also knows which gear it is in.
Hi Bill, Thx for this. This is the same as a 2004 2 door Seat Ibiza, the only difference being that it is practically impossible to access the torx screw so had to resort to hammer and chisel. Without this video and your clear explanation I would not have known where to place the chisel. Door is now open just need to work out the easiest way to replace the door lock.
Do the splines on the cv shaft to hub not just slide in and out like a normal cv shaft? Or was it just rust binding it up
I was afraid to hammer it out after some gentle taps failed because of damage to the hub nut threads it also required some force to pull it home enough to put on the hub nut. There was only a little rust. Putting it in is also hard as there is nowhere positive to hit it because of the rubber joint.
@billebrill8730 thanks for the tips, do a fair share of work on pickup trucks but never a bmw, sistsers is acting up so imma check this
One of best videos great detail
Thank you
How easy was it to do it with the bearing puller??? I might invest because I have to do this job in the coming days 👍🏻
I needed both pullers but they worked well. Check you can remove the hub nut as that can be a show stopper, and invest in a BMW part when putting back .Depending on which side you do the exhaust hanger has to be unhooked.
@@billebrill8730 wow I hadn’t factored in removing the nut, i looked at it this evening and sprayed it with wd40 in preparation, I have a brand new nut and reluctor ring for it, I’ll grab those extra tools tmoro and it should be ok then
my rear door is electric, any assistance?
The lock is electric?
@@billebrill8730 the windows are automatic
Amazing video! You have really understood what people want from a tutorial and delivered excellently! Thank you Bill!
It's a electronic window
Where did you get that puller tool that you used to install the shaft? Have looked around for something like it but to no avail. Thanks!
Use this search on eBay '7pc Drive Shaft Puller Service Socket Set**M16 - M30**Vag**VW**BMW**Merc**'
Great video and i love how you actually showed what tools and steps there are. Love chrisfix but i feel he's shaking over this
sound too low
First time anyone said that!
one of the best tutorials I've ever seen on RUclips. really clear, no bs and good pace. 10/10
Thank you
Brush the splines with grease using an old toothbrush next time. It will make future removals a breeze.
Step 1: remove abs sensor, Step2: insert a new abs sensor with an thin spacer (max 0,7mm) Done Works for 12000km now Of corse is your solution the better one… but if the car is very old and only 2k worth… my solution is the better one 😝
Agreed, if you watched my other video I showed how to do that. I used it as a temporary fix but did not need to replace the sensor.
Hi.. I just wanted to thank for such excellent instrutions/ directions which were a great help in not giving up the quest .. job done !!
@bill ebrill when the light flickers, does the car also break shortly?
@bill ebrill when the light flickers, does the car also break shortly?
thank you
But why do you remove the driveshaft? Why not just do it while it’s on the car? Any good reasoning? Other than it being more «available”?
Apart from not being able to access the ring, a new ring cannot be fitted with the wheel bearing and wheel mounting in the way. Removing those is a far bigger job than taking out the half shaft which is relatively easy.
Thanks for the video. What sensor do you recommend or what have you used? How do they behave? Thank you.
My sensor had been marked by the expanding reluctor ring but still worked fine so I did not replace it. The BMW part number for my 2009 318d sensor is 34526762466. It operates as a single channel sensor with current output of 7ma and 14ma for measuring rotational speed. See my other video.
Where did you get the universal puller set I can’t find one on eBay
I can see about five on eBay UK using using this search "7pc Drive Shaft Puller Service Socket Set**M16 - M30**Vag**VW**BMW**Merc**"
Very helpful video. Thank you! Would be great to know which exact Universal Puller Set was used (so many different ones on amazon)
ahh.. seems like "CV Axle Shaft Puller / Wheel Bearing Hub Installer Kit - Bavarian Autosport" was used.
Thank you. I bought on eBay - "7pc Drive Shaft Puller Service Socket Set**M16 - M30**Vag**VW**BMW**Merc**" a few places do them. The place I bought it from are out of stock I see others doing it.
Hi there... Is there any place in Dublin where I can get this puller.. I was replacing my E90's reluctor ring using a sledge hammer and I damaged the spline of the shaft
Very helpful, well detailed and clear. Thanks 🙂
Should you grease the drive shaft splines before reinstalling? We had one completely rusted and frozen in the hub.
Thanks man,you helped me a lot!
Excellent tutorial Bill, succinct and only useful information 👍
Thank you so much for your help
Thanks allot for this super vid .Helps me verry to understand the Problem 👍👍👍😀
Very helpful video Thank you. The cut outs to show the dead lock were great 😃👍
Just the job. Thanks One thing not covered is the removal of the window dowels which i believe can be very very difficult.
Thanks
@@billebrill8730 Can I disable the deadlock lever and use the door till I get the correct lock. Would it get through an MOT
@@thomaslynas721 as long as the door opens and closes it should pass the MOT
Great video thanks.
The newer ones always show 7mA .
They must use a different protocol.
@@billebrill8730 Yeah, it's probably this one, ruclips.net/video/9rPjL9PEK2g/видео.html although I was not able to see the square wave. Maybe. I would have to do it installed on the wheel. Cheers.
@@dzidmail That was how I started unfortunately it is uses a current sensor arrangement. It is not a voltage protocol, it is a current protocol, switching current levels and difficult to detect with a scope.
@@billebrill8730 Actually yeah. This is must be the same protocol. Although, with the 200ohm resistor in series the voltage drop changes (1.4V) should be visible on the scope. I think, either my new sensor are bad too or I need different metal to test them on.
Let me report my memories - maybe will be useful to someone. Your sensor is showing 14mA on far proximity and 7mA on close. My failed rear sensor one was showing 7mA on far and close proximity. Replacement rear sensor was behaving like yours 14mA on far proximity. Now, week later front sensor started reporting error. Yeah, suspicious. It was reading 7mA on far and close proximity. Bought the replacement and was showing correctly 14mA on far proximity and 7mA on close, they sent wrong size (thick rear kind). Then I ordered two Chinese front sensors from different manufacturers. I thought I will stock up on them if another one fails. Both were showing 7mA on far proximity, so they are probably failed as well. They costed $8 and $10 and they are probably some manufacturing rejects. I am going to buy another one and maybe will report further.
God bless you man 🙂 I opened the door this way, removed the lockdoor, installed a new one, locked it and the same situation again, I can't open it either from the inside or from the outside. What's the problem
Sounds like a wiring issue!
@@billebrill8730 I also think that electricity is a problem
Dear Bill, Thank you so much for making this video. It helped me a lot!
Glad it helped. B.
A lot of info condensed in a short video, hard to find nowadays. It's possible to open the lock without having to drill a hole. Use a slotted screwdriver and hammer it into the small latch seen above your thumb @3:40. This rotates the plate and unlocks the door.
I agree. Well done. It is also possible to fabricate a driver to access it from the side. Coincidentally my daughter traded the Polo two days ago - we got 15 years out of it across two daughters. It was a 2005 car!
@@billebrill8730 Nice, probably the last generation of cars you can really work on and fix things like this cheaply.
I have followed this procedure and have not been able to open my door rear offside passenger door ..the screw plastic and metal part all out .. not sure if I can upload photos in comments any help will be appreciated.. vw 2005 polo 1.4 auto
Are you anywhere near armagh
No, Dublin.
@@billebrill8730absolutely tortured with trying to get someone to sort this exact problem for me.
Painting the shaft wouldn’t have made much of a difference. When you hammer the new ring on, the paint will scratch anyway. Thanks for the video and info about the tools needed. 👍
No ruclips.net/video/rBlTHK29x8c/видео.html
Where did you buy those special tools for bolts? Thank you.
I bought puller here - www.ebay.ie/itm/282105048992?hash=item41aec56fa0:g:wCoAAMXQL99Sczue&amdata=enc%3AAQAHAAAA4K1pQqN8dV8hoMSDHC0%2B5%2BF%2Fkr5wpMJe9VnmSg8BodrQN7aZ6hJjjO%2B8Z0diyFRxXIGe3SrRnDdyRGElAnkSbvTWFc7lWYsSjAXM5IpL4S1UVokczoLFPoyX5qrJI6MqUx58mRXg9vX620GVaV54CWYEW45l7jKbx%2FbdZCm7BBDO1X7PuSiCvxxDHDOPnk0VRZVXZVh3tbnzgGnjwO98IYQF%2Bvh16fXuDnXD0ZlE2IO9wTGG7jvMrgAzisap2k2MrsE%2B%2BHdfXaXiXr6WxGqkG2IPmz710ZpEpWUjixEx8sPM%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR86F_-PPYQ
Job done after months of frustration. You’re a star!
is this one side or both rear wheels? Thanks Im about to embark I was wondering if they had rings on both sides so I need to buy one or two?
This is one side. Both sides have them. It is how they tell if one wheel is slipping. I had the other side done by a dealer and it cost me €1,200 because they replaced the full half shaft. That is why I did the second one myself.
Awesome guide. Thankyou
Thank for your sharing Bill. It truly helps me doing it.
Thanks, nice to get the feedback.
Great tutorial, thanks a million 👊
Just tried it and worked only the door skin was a hassle thanx very much.
Appreciate the comment. Getting the door card off was a bummer. However easy to put back once open!
I have a 2005 320i (E46) with the 2.2 litre six cylinder engine. I want to replace the ABS sensor rings, however any source that sell those rings lists the 323,328 and farther up the model line. I'd like to know if the rings listed for the 323 etc will also fit the E46 model 320i.
Absolute legend you are mate. After hours of trying and searching, this did it for me. Thanks heaps.
Hey Bill, would this fit a 2008 323I ?
Thanks for the video, its the only information i could find about this issue, i drilled a hole, unscrew the Torx screw and the door opens again.
Great Video, should be a method without drill a hole. At the end of this video ruclips.net/video/EK5b7Jj0FrY/видео.html