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Cheers for that, I'm glad you have found it helpful with setting up your welders settings.

Thanks for watching!

The material has the brushed finish. Removing mill scale is a massive time sink and expensive with consumables.

No, sadly you need argon.

Hey, it isn't practical. You really need a AC/DC TIG. People will say you can use helium gas, but that is massively expensive and you wouldn't be happy with the results. I have a video using the YesWelder to weld soda cans. That is about the cheapest machine that's any good.

@@weldingempire TY

Thanks I'm glad you liked it. What machines do you have for this type of work?

@@weldingempire please add me

Thanks mate, yeah it's a good little saw. It does take a while to cut through thicker sections but I like it. The blade will wonder if you push it to hard.

Cheers mate. Glad you liked the video. The throne weighs a tone with all the MIG guns😅

@@weldingempire i want a tutorial for that one, im afraid 😂

Hi Ralph, the green light indicates the helmet is in grind mode. I hope you found the video helpful.

Hi, sorry to hear that. I would say it has something to do with the internals, that isn't my area of expertise. I would post a quick video on their FB page. Someone will respond there that can help.

Cheers mate.

Hi, The tungsten will still arc if it is a scratch start or a lift start. So it will be wise to use a torch holder or place away from your work or if the you are on a metal bench that is also grounded. You won't get a zap from the torch. I hope that helps.

Thanks 🤗

Thanks

Hi Phil, thanks for your kind words I really appreciate it. I'm glad you found the video informative for your refresher. As for the burn through, people only like to show Instagram perfect welds on the internet. But when you are learning a new process we don't always pull off a perfect weld.

Hey Chris, thrilled to hear you're benefiting from my channel! How's your experience with the Unimig Viper 165? I've been using the 200 AMP AC/DC model and it's been rock-solid for me. If you're keen on diving deeper into MIG welding, check out my welding cart build video. It offers additional insights on planning your welds during fabrication. Keep enjoying your welding journey! 🛠️🔥

@weldingempire I have only had the Unimig a few days now and more or less only set it up and zapped acouple of bits, so cant give an honest opinion just yet, I bought it more for the TIG function as it's something I want to learn. I will definitely watch the episode on the weld cart Thanks for the reply!

Happy New Year to you too! Thanks for sharing your experience with the welder. It sounds like you've come across a component that could be a type of inductor or choke, commonly used in electrical circuits to block higher frequencies, as you mentioned. It's interesting that it's loosely positioned and not aligned. If it's functioning similarly to the chokes on other cables, it might be there for electromagnetic interference (EMI) suppression. However, without seeing it myself, it's hard to be certain. Good job on checking the connections and trying to troubleshoot the E-4 error. Sometimes the simplest fixes can be the most effective. Keep exploring and stay safe while working on your machine. And of course, have a fantastic 2024!

I'll be running the machine again on a couple TIG projects in a few days, so will check to see if anything is wonky or if there are any codes after aligning the choke (let's just call it that for now). One thing I do remember from almost two years ago when I saw the code (been pretty much just using stick only since then - what a waste!) was that I think I was inadvertently stretching the arc length (New to TIG + being dumb) too far from the work, like 1/4 inch or even more; I think maybe that bumps up the power output a lot, so maybe caused the mystery E-4 code. Who knows. I'll check back in to report, whatever I do discover. Thanks and keep up the good work! @@weldingempire

Thanks for the tip, @gGeorge96! The idea of using 80 and 120 grit crosspads on a die grinder for grinding inside corner welds sounds like a great technique. I'm definitely going to give it a try in my upcoming build. The addition of 3M bristle discs seems like it would provide a really nice finish too. Always appreciate learning new methods and techniques that can improve the quality and efficiency of the work. Looking forward to applying this in my project. Cheers!

Absolutely man. Excellent video btw. Cheers

Absolutely, three-phase welders generally offer superior power output. However, keep in mind that if you plan to use the welder outside of your workshop, a three-phase option might be less convenient due to its power requirements. If you're working with sheet metal, definitely check the low voltage capabilities of the three-phase welders. Also, consider the size of the MIG gun; larger ones might not fit into tight spaces. For smaller tasks, a 150 amp MIG gun could be a more suitable choice. Hope this advice is useful to you!

Hi W/E Thanks for the reply, greatly appreciated. I am in Oz and looking at a cigweld 355i 3 in 1 three phase or a Topgun 200 single / double pules 3 in 1. Just don't want to buy something that's not going to last, Thanks for taking the time to reply. Cheers

No worries. We have a Top Gun 3500LSWF at work and I wouldn't recommend it. I had a Top Gun 200 amp AC/DC welder that I got cheap because it needed repairing. I wanted to replace the circuit board because of a broken potentiometer. They threw all their older welder replacement parts out and tried selling me a new welder. I replaced the pot and sold the welder for $350. After-sales service Could be a problem. The CIG Weld 355i looks like a solid choice. But have a look at the RAZOR 350 COMPACT MIG/TIG/STICK WELDER. It is a slightly larger machine but it has the castors and bottle stand as part of the package. Plus it has spool gun capability. I used one for about 6 months at a hydraulic repair shop. Great machine.

I greatly appreciate you taking the time to reply, I will have a look at the unimig,. Thanks for your help.,take care, Cheers

Thanks for your kind words and for watching the video! I'm glad it was helpful for you. Just a quick note about the saw - some users, including myself initially, have experienced the blade wandering. However, with proper setup and adjustment, I've managed to use mine effectively and regularly without issues. Cheers!

Thanks Greg, I'm glad you found it helpful 👍

Hi Greg, I,m glad you are liking the YesWelder. I will be using the ArcCaptain for the MIG welding, but everthing I show in the video will translate to the 205DS.

🤑

Thanks, not to many people like a New Zealand accent. There is always the back button for them. I hope the video helped.

I use the Digital Infinity at work for over a year now. It is excellent. I have replaced the batteries twice in the last three years.

@@weldingempire was that heavy mig use?

@@thh4584 Yeah, Mainly between 24 to 29 volts with MIG and 28 volts for flux core. I use around a 30 lb spool of wire every 2 days. So it gets hammered. But it has not let me down once.

100 %. 250 amp AC/DC TIG at the price is a excellent deal. It is no more difficult to set than any other machine on the market. I jave had my machine for over 2 years and haven't had any problems.

Thanks for your comment.

The video is labeled for beginners, so it would follow that there would be tools for beginners.

Thanks

Hi Morgan, I think if you are taking your thumb off the button as soon as you press it, that could be 2T. If you are leaving your thumb on the button, then I would say you have the machine set to spot timer. I hope that helps.

Thank you, it's a great machine.

That new setup sounds awesome!😎 I'm like you, where I like to have the machines earn their keep. What material are you usually working with?

@@weldingempire I'm working with stainless steel, titanium and aluminum I took off on building custom turbo kits. In the slow times I repair just about anything.

@@danielsplayhouse3804 I've never welded titanium before. Is its puddle similar to stainless? I will be building a manifold for my SS Commodore with an LS1, I have the 78/75 VS racing turbo. Turbo life! 🚗💨. Do you have an Instagram for your work?

I used it a few times doing hydraulic cylinder repairs to build up ring lands on hydraulic pistons. Similar to this channel, www.youtube.com/@CuttingEdgeEngineering. But that was on an extremely old Hobart TIG Wave 250. I bet they run better on a newer machine.

"@moustachemike7128 Sounds like some solid tweaks you made there! The ck flex line and WP9 setup must be quite handy for precision and lighter tasks. Keep experimenting and enjoy your setup! ✌ Stay safe and weld on!"

Cheers👍

Hi, to maintain the grain a good quality red abrasive pad would be fine. Use a very small amount of kerosene with the pad. Use a sanding block to evenly spread the pad over the whole surface. Just do one continuous stroke over each length until you are happy with the look. Changing directions will be very noticeable. Warm soapy water to remove the kerosene with a clean cloth and follow the same one direction method. I am glad you found the video helpful and I hipe that helps. Cheers.

@@weldingempire wonderful, thanks for the advice, much appreciated!

That's the approach I was taking. But the more I looked into it the expense was getting to the point you were better buying a low dollar HF TIG.

I am currently making a video of the Arccaptain MIG 200. I find that to be a far easier machine to use. For beginners or experienced alike. Here's the written review weldingempire.com/arccaptain-mig-200-review/ I hope this helps.

@@weldingempire that looks nice but imma go for the yeswelder 205 tig

Glad it was helpful!

Hi, very observant. The camera shot of the settings was not prior to welding so the settings had been changed. I neglected to set the foot pedal.

That explains it then...I still haven't been able to do much with aluminum cans...Great video by the way...

Glad to help 😃

Cheers man. I am glad you liked it.

Combining your new information with the previously refined recommendation, we get the following: "If you're only engaging in TIG welding occasionally, I'd recommend starting with a good entry-level helmet. I've personally used the Yeswelder LYG-M800HP True Color daily for about six months, and it has performed exceptionally well. I've recently received another helmet that I find more user-friendly, especially when it comes to changing the battery and clear lenses. One small issue is that the cable inside the hood requires some adjustment against the helmet, but it's worth noting that this helmet is around $30 cheaper than the Yeswelder. For welding an aluminum engine block, it's advisable to use a 4043 TIG wire. However, be cautious as the block might require heat treating post-welding to alleviate stresses. Welding materials like cast iron or aluminum can be quite challenging. Hence, it's crucial to hone your TIG welding skills before attempting to weld an engine block. For your tungsten needs, Arccaptains' 2.4mm lanthanated tungstens are versatile and suitable for both AC and DC TIG welding, and they are very reasonably priced at just $12. If you're interested in checking out the helmet, here's a link along with a 5% off code: [www.arccaptain.com/products/wolf-design-large-viewing-screen-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-true-color-welding-mask?ref=weldingempire](www.arccaptain.com/products/wolf-design-large-viewing-screen-auto-darkening-welding-helmet-true-color-welding-mask?ref=weldingempire)." This recommendation provides a comprehensive guide on both equipment and welding techniques for beginners and those looking to weld specific materials.