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IMO they sound great. I was going to change the hertz speakers to JL M6's, but after listening to the Hertz speakers for a year, the cost to change them out isn't justified. I actually added an additional two matching Hertz speakers to the rear lounger during the 2023 offseason. I figured the JL amp would blow these Hertz speakers quick as well, but that hasn't happened and I've definitely pushed them to the max.

Like most things JL, the price to performance ratio is god awful, especially when it comes to their speakers. Average AT BEST with a premium price. Smart move staying with the Hertz. Spend the money you saved elsewhere.

Thanks for the info too im about to do my 2012 outlander 1000xt just got the quad and first thing I noticed was on the left rear it was missing caliper and line and noticed it has a rotor but the bolts that hold it on are sticking out an not flush they would have worked if there's a caliper on it then just learned there's not supposed to be one 😂

I do have pictures, but don't know how to share them. I made a vertical amp rack with starboard and aluminum brackets and mounted it under the helm. I wouldn't mount an amp to the floor as water could easily get to it.

Yeah would love to see how you set that up. Does the Cabrio come with 6 and half inch speakers?

@@roycekelly4774 Yes, 6.5" Hertz speakers.

I've been having an issue where the rubber part of the pontoon guide rails pops off and needs to be re-inserted into the channel. Otherwise its been great. I have since took the wheels off and left them off as I've been having a barge company place and remove it each season now.

Thanks!

I align the boat throttle with one of the vertical lift supports to know I'm positioned correctly. The motor stop would be nice, except in a few cases (like when installing the canvas) you want the boat extremely far forward.

I'd suspect you'd need to bleed everything except the front two calipers and add some fluid.

7,800 miles now. Still runs and rides good. I've replaced the key switch twice now, but its easy and cheap (old design collects dirt and moisture). Driveshaft was replaced due to play. VSS was replaced. Everything else has been wear items (brakes, belts, fluids, tires).

That would depend on where the air is within the system and the reason why the brakes are being bleed. In my situation I did not need to do anything with the front two bleeders near the front calipers.

@@Jake-zx3xh okay thanks for the reply! I broke my rear caliper and was working my way around the bleeder valves in the correct order about 10 times with no luck so I'm going to try the vacuum bleeder, hoping I only need to use it on the rear caliper but I ran the reservoir dry once while I was trying to bleed them.

@@throttlejunkie5483 I suspect you'll need to bleed the one by the rear caliper, rear pedal and the one by the sequence valve like I had to. I did the same as you. Use the vacuum bleeder and plumbers tape and you'll be golden.

Good to hear. That's exactly why I made this video. I was in the same situation.

I never owned a traditional cable lift, so I can't comment on the lifespan other then what the sales person told me and yes I agree they probably exaggerated. I didn't look too much into hydraulic lifts as they are overkill for my needs (Tritoon with a 200hp) but hydraulic lifts are definitely superior (if not required) for heavier boats.

@@Jake-zx3xh pretty sure the Floe VSD use cables like you showed? Pretty sure all of Floes lifts use cables? Cables Hooked to the screw drive, wheel winch, direct drive or say the hyd cylinder cylinder like on a ShoreStation they all use cables. There are some with hyd cylinders under the water with no cables but heard a lot of issues with those. Also the cost difference is pretty close to a floe vsd and a ShoreStation hyd from what I can see and on a Shotestation a wheel lift with motor is only about 5-7% less according to my local dealer than the much quicker solar powered hyd with remotes. Plus another point the hyd fluid now used is completely bio degradable and no threat to the environment if ever leaked.

@@kross1261 Yes, the Floe VSD uses a cable although supposedly this cable lasts a lot longer as its not being bent/twisted/wrapped. I would imagine any of the hydraulic lifts are still quite a bit more expensive, but maybe not, I haven't priced them out since 2019 and aluminum is way up so perhaps the price gap for electric/cable vs hydraulic has shrunken. Back in 2019 I was looking at 5k lbs lifts, perhaps the gab is less for 6.5k lbs lifts as well. In 2019 a 120v cable shorestation was ~$2500 more then the 120v floe vsd when I had them quoted. Pier pleasure was the lowest cost then. I'd say roughly 70% of the lifts used in my area are still the old manual crank cable style.

Yes, that is correct

Also the motor and V-entry thing will be swapped if you do that.

So far so good

Yes, you still need to crack them open.

What parts are problematic? I'd like to know to watch for them. Thanks

@@Jake-zx3xh ive seen leg adjustments jam up on brand new hoist. Bearings fry inside the worm gear lift assembly. Bunk post continue to slide down when weight is on them no matter how tight you get the tensioner bolt. Lots of room for error when assembling. A nut or washer falls into a corner post where the leg adjustment is and your screwed. I won't service, install or remove them. Just to much of a headache. But best wishes to thoughs who do.🙏

@@trenersstock8845 what brand do you recommend then?

@@Jake-zx3xh well all around shore station #1. Probably #2 craftlander.

This area is now restricted, as of a year or two ago, and im not sure if anyone is still permitted there or not. Unfortunately I believe a serious accident shut it down.

The bunks are the guides too. They are rubber on the side that goes in between the pontoons and work great for guiding. Canopy is 28ft and more then I need, but I didnt want to be short. A Barletta C22UC, 23.5ft without the outboard will be on it this year.

@@Jake-zx3xh Ended up getting the VSD6500 with 28' canopy and will be putting a Barletta Corsa 21UC on it (23 foot deck). Super excited. I have a seawall to deal with so getting in and out will be quite a bit more challenging then your nice shore line! Happy boating! (EDIT: I wanted to mention price for people out there, due to COVID and material cost the price of these have really gone way up. I got over 6 quotes from dealers in Michigan (Feb 2022) and they were all between $20-27K. Granted I have a bit heavier model, but I also don't have wheels or the remote control.)

@@brianford9522 Awesome setup. I'm putting a 2022 C22UC on my lift this spring. Enjoy!!

@@Jake-zx3xh What motor did you go with?

@@brianford9522 200 Mercury.

tricledusa.com/

@@Jake-zx3xh thank you!

Its going to depend on the draft of your boat, but IMO 30" should be enough. Where I have mine placed, I probably have 28" where the lift is closest to shore. When the water level drops lower then this, I'll need to move the pontoon halfway off the lift with only me on the boat and then my passengers get on. You could get extra clearance if you were to cut off the unused extra pontoon guide height adjustment part of those brackets. I didn't because I'm planning on getting a new pontoon soon. Also keep in mind the front of the lift can be at the end of your pier. It doesn't have to be parallel along side your pier.

@@Jake-zx3xh thanks. I have a 25' Barletta tritoon. Was going to go with the 6500 VSD with 18' guides./bunks. I figured these guides would be easier and less cost than three sets of bunks and additional guides. Do you lower the bunks just above the water line when you approach so it doesn't hit the splash guards? That's what concerns me about my shallow depth, not getting them low enough for the approach. If I have to use bunks, I will but was hoping to get away with these guides/bunks.. Is lining the boat up pretty easy with these when you come in? And if you did it again would you go with these or bunks? Also has the lift been reliable and how is installation/removal? Is it easy with the wheels? Sorry for all the questions. The dealer says yes to everything to get the sale. Thanks again!

@@johnvrabel8814 That's a nice boat! I've been looking at the 22UC and 23UC myself. 6500 is probably more then you need for that and the higher the rating the heavier the lift is, making it more difficult to remove. I pay a company with a barge $125 to install it in spring and another $125 to remove it in fall now. Prices do vary biased on the size of the lift. I wouldn't buy the wheels again. I don't use the wireless fob much either. Lifting strakes and the splash guards are not an issue since they don't extend past the widest part of the toon diameter. The toon still sticks out more when you look close at the tapers of the nose cones. The pontoon rails make it super easy to get back on the lift, where bunks don't provide much guidance. I don't think you'll have enough water depth for bunks anyway, since bunks would need to go under water whereas the rails can remain above water. The bunks do support the boat better then rails as they evenly distribute the weight better. I simply lower the lift all the way down to install/remove the boat and then raise it all the way up to store the boat. I've had no issues with the lift or canopy.

@@johnvrabel8814 how do you like that Barletta? In the market for a shorter tri-toon with high end construction and a nice helm. Corsa 21UC caught my eye!

Only where its legally allowed.

Its real close to frontier campground and Saxon harbor (that also has a campground).

I'm not exactly sure, maybe 2500 lbs. The rails are nice because they act like guides and are better for shallow water.