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Yes, that works just fine, as long as you didn't put the hopup-unit/barrel-assembly back into its place. Once you start reassembling everything, you don't have access to the nozzle anymore, as it's hiding inside the hopup-unit.

@@Guido_XL If you left the pistol grip for last, you can still use a cleaning rod through the inner barrel to push it. Just put those two parts together earlier ;)

Yes, I did not think of that option. Very good, thank you! I'm going to try that the next time. I'm expecting new springs, so once they have arrived, I'm going to try that trick with a long rod to manipulate the nozzle, making the lower gearbox fit more easily. My trick now is to use a screwdriver to push the tappet-plate out of the way, just enough as to simultaneously push the gearbox into place. As a preparation, I first turn the sector-gear to such a position as to make the tappet-plate settle more conveniently. This takes a bit of trial & error, but as with many technical things that require some fiddling, experience solves everything in the end.

It's been many years.... from what I remember, I calculated the rate of feed needed and the voltage that gives me that rate, and I used a big fat resistor to step down the voltage from the battery. No ideal probably but it worked. There is a diagram on the link in the description.

What length motor is it? Short or long?

My impression is that the material of the gearbox is cheap but fortunately the gearbox design itself is a beefy one that reminds me of the M249. My feeling is that it will probably handle a 430 fps spring. Do consider that perhaps they gave you the wrong spring. HAVING THAT SAID, I do have a couple of suggestions that I strongly recommend: 1) radius the gearbox window - it's free and not that difficult to do. Just don't remove too much. Err on the side of caution; 2) use sorbo pads - I know some people feel strongly with this topic. Some hate that it takes up volume, some swears by spacers behind the piston head. Personally, I'm a strong believer of the sorbo pad on cylinder head. You have plenty of volume to work with in this gun and absolute consistency in an MG is typically not a huge factor; 3) air efficiency - this is probably the most important point to consider before you do anything. It's been many years since I got mine and I don't know if they've made changes but on mine the air seal is absolute garbage around the hop-up unit. If you can somehow fix the air leak there, I think you will recover a lot of that fps. I unfortunately never got around to that. On mine, the nozzle to hop-up alignment seemed to be half the problem. The other half seemed to be with the poor tolerances of the hop-up unit, which can be addressed with conventional means (hop-up rubber, teflon tape, etc.).

Thank you for your fast reply, much appriciated!

I'm glad it helped, even after all these years.

So the ARL is free and not holding the gear? I take it your QD spring won't come out. You could just cycling the gun a few times and try your luck again. The sector could be meshed with the piston and you're fighting spring pressure, although it seems unlikely since you've released the ARL. Going to ask the obvious: is the rear pin out?

@@Kenjaiz i got it now, idk was it because the piston was broken or smth or did i not use enough force, i did take spring out and rear pin

His name is mo btw

This is a machinegun, and it's not meant to have a semi mode, so adding it will be challenging, especially since there's no cutoff lever. You could try and get a programmable MOSFET with active braking, and somehow add a magnet and a place for the pickup sensor. That's how I would approach it. My advice would be to just use controlled bursts if the point is to conserve ammo.

@@Kenjaiz i want to build a speedsoft mg42 and I need to have a semiautomatic mode . I'm not going to do the work, hopefully the guy will find a way but any help I find will be good

Too much fun and too cute. :)

I'm glad this helps!

Did you have to replace the gearbox with the CNC version?

Sorry, I can't be specific because I honestly don't remember. The hop unit was a work in progress and I experimented with different nozzle lengths. I noticed there was a gross misalignment of hopup unit and barrel, I thought maybe if I adjusted the nozzle length and shifted the hopup unit, I could improve it but I never really went through with it.

Has the spring been removed? Is the sector still meshed with the piston? You might have to cycle it.

It's the short type. See link in description for pictures.

@@Kenjaiz thanks

It's been a while since I've touched it but if memory serves, it was pinned. I'll have another look when I get a chance but I think there have been revisions to it since I bought mine (at least according to Google images). Mine had the full black flash hider with an orange extension, but now I'm seeing ones with a complete orange unit. It also looks pinned to me, just from pictures. You better proceed with caution and go slow.

smiffyraf1 thank you! I do not have such video but it is pretty straightforward once you have it apart.

Pablo Vilaro Hi, there. Have you checked to see if the motor has burned? I would take it out and power it to see if it moves. Of course check all the connections as well.

Kenjaiz, thank you ken. Yes the motor es working when test it outside, but when Connect with the gun doesnt work any more. The gun has a mic inside? Or has a chip ?

The motor works by a small switch in front of the trigger. I found that switch to be very weak even when new. That may be your problem. So you've powered drum motor with direct power and it works? How about if you put the drum motor back into the drum, but jump the plug that you normally plug into the gun? I assume your drum is in the original configuration.

Kenjaiz 👍👍👏do i need to dessarm the gear box to check the trigger?

Yes, you need to disassemble the gearbox to completely access it. See the link in the description, there should be a picture of it.

Kavox and Nplas Gaming If it's a standard aeg spring, I don't see why not. Just keep in mind that the spring is less compressed in this design and you're probably going to get lower fps than the spring is rated for.

HyunJun Lee good question. I personally have not installed a Polarstar before but I would imagine installing a Jack or F1 would be possible. I imagine you would have to figure out a way to work the trigger and drum mag activation though.

Kenjaiz how about i make a hole around some where in tirgger place for the hose to come out. And, what with the drum mag? what would be problem with it??? Thanks for helping me out lol

Well, I'm not worried about the hose, but I wonder if Polarstar has a trigger board that works with the MG42 trigger. It's not a standard V2 trigger but I imagine it won't be hard to make this work. Secondly, in the stock MG42, there is a switch located at the trigger trolley that activates the drum. You have to make sure the trigger board doesn't get in the way, or you might have to relocate the switch or choose a different activation method (like sound). See link in the description for picture of trigger and drum switch.

It can hold any AEG spring as far as I can tell, but if you are talking about the strength of the gearbox, it looks pretty strong and thick at most places. Remember that the length of the gear box is longer so the spring is not as compressed as normal V2. This means an M150 spring will not shoot 150 m/s, but maybe 130 - 140 m/s depending on what other parts you changed.

The tappet plate seems to be of V2. I fitted an SHS V2 in there and it seems to work. However, the post for the spring is closer to the hook than most V2 (the spring is stretched less), which explains why the stock spring seems to be of a higher spring rate. My guess is that it will still work with a normal V2. If you run into problems with the nozzle returning in time then I would suggest shortening the new spring.

Hop-up from the barrel? You mean taking apart the chamber and barrel? Just like any other hop-up chamber: you take off the retaining clip.

I just installed a hop patch and foam nub.

Glad it helped! Please give the video a thumbs up if you like it!

Check out the link in the description.

+Kenjaiz lol I was just reading that minutes ago and send u a message of some question I have about this gun. I was thinking can the gear box be replaced with the G&G one

+thechallenger I do not own any HPA, so my experience is limited, but other than the trigger that you already mentioned, I imagine you might have to modify the cylinder window as I discovered that my aftermarket cylinder didn't fit (window too short). As for the hop-up, I think a V3 is the closest. I believe the biggest challenge there is lining it up with the gearbox. For the trigger, I would try and find a smaller switch that fits but you'd have to figure out what the specs are for the switch.

+Kenjaiz thx for the reply! Ill do more research, but could you do a video on your electric drum magazine upgrades? because if i were to p* it I wanna make sure the bbs are feeding for a good 30-50 rof.

thechallenger I have a video demonstrating the feed rate of my upgraded drum, but there isn't really anything worth filming. All it is is just an upgraded Tamiya Mini 4WD motor. I decided to add an overly complicated bypass switch on there and some resistors to slow it down. In your case, you might not need to slow it down at all. The wiring diagram is in my ASC thread.

+Kenjaiz ok thanks!