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The ones made in India snap a lot of the time

No, these mainsprings are made in Germany.

Sveiki! CousinsUK parduoda labai didelę pagrindinių spyruoklių kolekciją. www.cousinsuk.com/category/mainsprings-clock

You could use a saw, but jewelers saws are usually made for softer metals. Trundles are extremely hard. If you have a blade that will cut through them, please share!

There was a small brad holding each ornament in place and the pillars simply sat between the ornaments. It may or may not be the same for your clock. I'm pretty sure the pillars in most clocks are glued to the clock, which would make it difficult to remove them.

We need a orderly tutorial video up next

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I’m another video I found it it actually stands for the model I think

You could, the most important thing if you do is ensuring that each shim is exactly the same thickness, else the plate will sit crooked and the pivots won't be straight through the holes. One important thing to note about endshake, sometimes the factory would bend the plates to correct endshake issues during manufacturing. If a bent or crooked plate isn't causing problems, it's best to leave the plate as is.

I have been well and I hope you're the same! You'll need a crow's foot or something similar and a staking set. Usually the chain sprocket is held on by a brass collar. Support just the collar using the crow's foot. Using a hollow stake that fits over the pivot and onto the shoulder of the arbor, drive the arbor through the collar. When hammering, it's important to keep the stake straight, or else you risk bending or breaking the pivot. Once the collar is off, the sprocket should slide off the arbor. You may need to drive it off using the same technique if it's friction fit. To reinstall the sprocket, get a stake that will fit over the arbor and onto the collar, then support the arbor and drive the collar back on. ruclips.net/video/y3SDcoHCZPU/видео.htmlsi=ptgMH3MXwRLDOcxm Skip to 11:50 in this video for a similar process. Hope this helps!

Once a mainspring is weak, there is no way to get it back to the way it was. Measure the original and use the measurements to buy a new spring. You'll need the length, width and thickness. Cousinsuk.com has an enormous selection of mainsprings, both clock and watch; they should have what you need.

That is a possibility, however I believe this particular arbor was cut down on that side to make room for the teeth of another wheel or possibly a lever. If you'll notice, the other half of the arbor is thicker as well.

I usually do install bushings from the inside. I believe the reason I installed this one from the outside is because the posts and other attatchments on the plate made it difficult to lay the plate down flat on the anvil face down. The only thing that matters is that the bushing is flush with the inside of the plate. Both the hole walls and the bushing edges are straight and not tapered, so you can install them from either side. After rewatching a bit more, I remembered exactly why I installed the bushings for this clock from the outside. The bushings were very slightly taller than the plates. To make the bushings flush, it was easiest to install them the way I did; the anvil will flush them for you.

@@colbysclocks Thank you

@@johnhelt5475 Good luck on the bushings! Keep in mind that your first bushing job will be your worst. I remember I ripped a bushing out of the plate with the smoothing broach the first time I did it. Let me know if you have any questions!

Hello! I apologize for the long wait; life has been quite busy and will continue to be. Right now I'm in the process of moving and will probably move twice this year, but I'll try to make more videos. Glad you enjoyed!

Thank you! It is very interesting indeed! What I find neat is how the two gear trains are in in front of and behind each other, instead of side by side. It's necessary for a clock with a cabinet as thin as this one.

Hello! All of my lathe tools come from Sherline. The carbide cutter and holder are linked in the video description. You can buy just the cutter from Sherline.com

@@colbysclocks ok thank you!

Clocks can only go together one way. If you can separate the two trains, time and strike, it's a simple matter of determining which wheel need to go where in order for them to mesh properly with each other. Usually the largest wheels will be near the bottom, then they get smaller as you go up. If you need more help, you can email me with photos. My email is on my channel page.

I'm glad you enjoyed! The smaller pin vise is a cheap one I got from Walmart for about $10. The larger one is from Timesavers.com, though I don't recommend it; there are far better alternatives. Pin Vise Swivel Head 2 Chuck 4 Sizes Hand Drill Tool Capacity Range 0-1/8" www.walmart.com/ip/379270091

Thanks! I found a 4 in 1 pin vise made by General tool company like yours. I also picked up a larger orange handled one for reamer bits….

I’m also trying to find a good wire cutter that doesn’t deform the wire too much….

I apologize; I tried to record the process but I couldn't get a good angle. This video shows the entire reassembly on a different movement, if you're interested. ruclips.net/video/xxwj2d1ziVg/видео.htmlsi=UFRaCNyAu896oqUG Skip to 20:23

OK. Thanks

It depends. If you're mass producing them, it could potentially be cheaper, based on the price of your brass stock and how much you value your time. I don't usually make bushings unless they're unusually sized or shaped, like mainwheel bushings. You can get a pack of Bergeon or KWM bushings for about 30 to 35 cents a piece if you know where to buy them.

I apologize for the long response, and I would like to do a video comparison but I also do not have enough clocks. In short, put leather on the hammer if there isn't already; the longer the chime rod, the deeper the sound. There are many factors which make up how a chime sounds, the main ones being the length and thickness of the rod. More on that below, but an easy way to change the sound of a chime, especially a tinny one, is to add a bit of leather or something similar to the hammer. This, of course, will only work if it's a bare metal hammer striking the chime. It will soften the strike and make less of a clanging noise. However, it may not help if the gong is the main issue. Now, I'm not a physicist, however I do have a basic understanding of acoustics. I mentioned earlier that the length and thickness of the rod are critical to the sound it produces. A longer rod will produce a lower pitch, a thicker rod will produce a richer tone. Think of a violin versus a bass. The short, thin strings of a violin will make quieter, higher notes compared to the long, thick strings of a bass making deep, rumbling notes. The hammers also will make a difference in the sound produced. As I mentioned, metal on metal will produce a louder, more grating sound that I don't much like. Most clocks will have hammers tipped with either leather or rubber. Volume will be affected by how hard the hammer is hitting the rod, the weight of the hammer and how far away from the rod the hammer is at rest. If the hammer is too close to the rod, you'll get a halting noise that sounds terrible. If it’s too far, you'll get a very soft noise or none at all. As far as replacing the old, tinny rod with a new one, it could be difficult or very easy. If the chime is circular, it should be a fairly simple process of removing the chime from the block and putting the new one in. They're usually only held in with a nut. If the chime is straight and mounted on a block, it could get trickier. Some are built into the block. Others are merely screwed through the top. Without seeing the clock, it's impossible to say what you need. Email me if you'd like me to help you. My email is in my channel description.

You are exactly right. Especially since my wrench is cheap and has a lot of play. It's better than using needle nose pliers, as I've seen others do. Some older clocks have misshapen nuts, so a wrench is handy in those cases. I do plan on getting drivers eventually.

I just started fooling around with these old clocks but so far I haven’t got into them as extensively as you have. I enjoyed your video and learned quite a bit. Thanks and keep it up.👍

Holding the spring during winding is mostly to keep it flat and prevent it from slipping and forming a ball. With the hook facing the other way, there's a chance the tail of the spring will kick it out, at least in my experience.